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View Full Version : Sr20 idle and deceleration problems(HELP PLEZZ)

nurvcom
11-01-2010, 05:33 PM
ok i look all over zilvia and google and found few thing near my problem and tryed it but still no luck :(



Redtop SR20DET RWD

new plugs
new used MAF
new used TPS

redid the timing from FRsport.com for Cas timming
tryed to cleaning iacv-aac
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

idle my car will start and idle at 1k Hot ~~ 1400 to 1500 Cold and will kinda stumble sometime if i rev up even a little car will just Shut off

now Driving i come to a stop and car will stumble low rpms 0 to 1k and will die at light or if i take out of gear when driving it will do same stumble and die

ooo and i think car running rich :( but that didnt start till this all Did


Here a video of just when i got home
YouTube - video 2010 11 01 15 55 40 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqMD42fwfAg)

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e1_griego
11-01-2010, 07:16 PM
Vented bov?
nurvcom
11-01-2010, 07:18 PM
Vented bov?


is stock Bov and just venting
nurvcom
11-02-2010, 07:51 AM
bump no one
S14DB
11-02-2010, 08:08 AM
So, the BOV is vented to atmosphere?

Sounds like a vac leak.
clay9110
11-02-2010, 09:20 AM
Check your iacv also, as I had a similar problem and it was leaking at the iacv gasket.
brizanden
11-02-2010, 09:30 AM
iacv and you said new tps did you set it right? its a little tricky to get the right setting on it
japslapsilvia
11-02-2010, 09:54 AM
is stock Bov and just venting


are u venting your stock BOV? if u are that is ur problem. Recirculate it and it should fix ur issues.
nurvcom
11-02-2010, 07:39 PM
Well now my car super rich and littte smoke looks like to
nieko
11-02-2010, 08:30 PM
Bro.. like everyone else said, if you are venting your stock BOV to atmosphere that IS your problem...

either take that sucker out and block it off somehow, or reconnect it how its supposed to be.
nurvcom
11-02-2010, 08:33 PM
Ok I can run with out bov??? And the hose hooks to pipe that blocked off by turbo/maf
PomiDori
11-02-2010, 11:56 PM
check ecu for codes.
nurvcom
11-03-2010, 09:03 PM
ok i got multimeter and tested TPS and set it to .455 volts closed and that set to stock helped little on car actting up and buckking it was doing

Tested MAF and i put my old one in car car idle super low and ran poor put new maf i had in it back in and it ran better just still idle at 900 to 1k hot and cold 1400 to 1450 now it still jump up and down like crazy 200 to 1500 and black smoke and super rich

Tested maf signal wire was sending at idle .006 volts ????? i have no clue what stock idle should be near on MAF?

and it sound like motor at idle is sputtering and run bad i can feel motor kicking around

and is so rich at light it make my eye water
nurvcom
11-04-2010, 09:08 PM
On timming sr20det redtop on the marks on crank facing motor front first mark or second mark on right side ?
Out of the six lines on crank
cotbu
11-05-2010, 04:00 AM
If you haven't fix the stock bov vented issue, what's happening is it is fluctuating open and closed. That would give you the running rich and fluxing idle. Other than that a fluxing idle could be CTS but it is a bit more mild.

That vid didn't show a fluxing idle.

On timming sr20det redtop on the marks on crank facing motor front first mark or second mark on right side ?
Out of the six lines on crank
That's a joke right? I'll just say 15deg screw + or -
Get Yourself a FSM!