SRfairladyZ
09-21-2010, 08:07 AM
Up for grabs is my 1971 Datsun 240Z with SR20DET engine. I bought this car in 2003 as a low(ish) mile (105,000) Automatic transmission car. This insured the body was still solid and true to form. The car started and lived it’s life in New Mexico then made its way up to New Jersey were it sat for about 3yrs before the owner finally gave up the idea of restoring it. This is when I purchased the car with the intent of doing the SR swap. Any rust was very minimal, floor rails are solid and fender wells were also rust free.
For the engine I chose the latest SR motor I could get before the S15 Model, so this is a 1998 Black top motor with VTC and a stock Garrett T28 turbocharger. The engine is totally stock and ready to be driven daily, or ready for your meticulous build. The engine set was purchased through Heavy Throttle Performance and installed at SPI Power Excel in NJ. There it underwent the bulk of the swap while I worked on the suspension , brakes and drive train layout. The stock SR20 5 speed transmission was used along with a custom balanced driveshaft that mats up to a R200 rear differential from a Turbo S12 Silvia (4.11 gearing – Open). I purchased 280ZX turbo CV shafts and had them rebuilt before installation. I also installed stronger stub axels from the 280Z.
As for engine Modifications the SR20 has remained stock it’s whole life. The engine runs off the stock SR20 ECU and power to the rest of the car is done through a Painless Wiring Switch panel located snugly where the glove box was. Also there, are all the fuses and relays. Power wise, it was dyno'ed at 250whp/260ft lbs. Keep in mind the car only weighs 2,200lbs with the all aluminum SR nestled in a front mid engine configuration. The remaining details I will include in a list format.
Engine Bay:
Custom Mandrel bent and polished Intercooler piping
Custom Intercooler
Genuine ARC Blow Off Valve
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Z32 MAF
Griffin Aluminum Radiator
Flex-a-light 3,300 cfm Radiator Fan w/ Thermostat switch
Brand new Brake Booster
Brand new 280ZX Brake Master Cylinder
Brand new 280Z Clutch Master Cylinder
Custom Steel Clutch Lines
Spec Stage 1 Full Disc Clutch (perfect streetabilty - clamps great cause car is so light)
Suspension/Brakes:
Arizona Zcar Coilover System w/ Pillow ball mounts and Camber Plates for adjustment
Customized KYB shocks. (The Koni reds from AZ-Zcar were way too hard.)
250lb springs in Front
375lb springs in Rear (extra set of springs comes with car)
KYB shocks
4 Piston Toyota 4 runner Front Calipers
Steel Braided lines all around
New rear drums and shoes
Inside:
Defi Link Gauges
AEM Wideband
Apexi SAFC-II (to run Z32 MAF)
Blitz Turbo Timer (used as Volt gauge)
HKS EVC-4 (Seems to have failed – has not been in use for 2yrs)
Nardi wheel with Quick release hub
JIC Magic (CROSS) Seats and rails
Sparco 4 Point Harnesses
ABS plastic dashboard overlay
10 Gal Aluminum Fuel Cell
All fuel lines are Steel braided with AN fittings
Walbro 255 Inline Fuel Pump + Inline Aeromotive Fuel Filter
Alarm System
Under Car:
R200 Diff with 4.11 Gearing - open. Snappy acceleration!
Custom Boxed Steel Cross member with Stock SR20 engine mounts.
Custom Transmission Mount plate with Polyurethane bushings
Divorced 02 housing (Brand new 02 sensor installed)
Full 3” Custom Exhaust with no Catalytic converter and 5Zigen Muffler at exit
Body:
240ZG Replica Overfenders (Fiberglass)
BRE Replica Rear Spoiler (Fiberglass)
Flat Style Front Airdam (Fiberglass)
Genuine Nissan Fairlady Z badges
Genuine Nissan Fender Mirrors
280Z Hood Vents
Hood Pins (hood pop was removed for some reason)
15”x8” Prime Wheels all around with -32mm offset.
New Windshield installed upon purchase due to crack from rock chip
Now listed are the quirks and suggestions:
The heater core was bypassed because it leaked, this created a small rust hole in the floor which is now repaired (8/28/10). Included with sale is a new heater core for buyer to install if they want heat.
The weather stripping for the doors are from another type of car and don’t fit perfectly. Jams are not painted, I can paint them satin black if you choose.
For unknown reasons the car will not start in ice cold temperatures unless a spray of starter fluid is used. I did not mind this because I never drove the car in the winter. It was garage kept during the cold/salt season.
A tach adapter needs to be installed for the Defi Tach to work. Right now you can get Tach readings from the SAFC-II.
The Oil Temp gauge needs a Temp sensor installed, I was not given one during purchase.
There is no Speedo, a large Tach and Boost gauge are behind the wheel. I sourced a heads up display speedo that would use GPS but I never got around to purchasing it.
The paint was done 3-4yrs ago and looks stunning, though it has a couple spots that aren’t perfect when you look real close, no one notices. The front corner markers were shaved but the paint bubbled a bit, you can cover it up by putting the stock corner markers back or, or leave it since its not too noticeable.
The back bumper is covered in chrome tape as a temp fix until I found a decent cheap bumper, but that never happened so the tape remains.
Reverse lights aren’t hooked up, nor are the signal lights, these can be wired up easily in such a primitive car, but not something I'm in the mood to do.
My main suggestions would be installing a roll cage or welding in strut braces This is an old car and could use a rigidity upgrade. The front brakes are non-vented disks. There are Vented bolt on brake conversions ranging from $450-$1200 (Wilwood). The car stops well on the streets, but if you plan tracking the car or doing a lot of highway miles, I would recommend the brakes be upgraded. Installing an LSD would really help this car get some traction as well, because even at 9.5psi the rear tires run a muck in 1st and 2nd gears.
I put A LOT of money and sweat into this little S30 for the past 7 years and It’s been a long mental battle to get the words “I’m selling it” out of my mouth, but I have some debt I need to kill off and other car plans I want to move onto. I barely drive it anymore and it kills me to know it’s just sitting. I put maybe 5,000 miles on this car since I’ve had it. I'm in the hole just over $20,000. My price is $13,000 . NO TRADES. I’m located on Staten Island, NY.
I have not taken any 'For Sale pics' yet so here are the most recent ones I've taken.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC03015.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC03018.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02969.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02972.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/IMG_4324-1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/CopyofIMG_4319.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02913-Copy.jpg
I don't have any recent pics of the engine bay, but you can see it in the video below. Again, not a 'for sale video', just something I made for fun last spring.
VIDEO BELOW
YouTube - SrFairladyZ SR20DET S30 Datsun 240Z Grindhouse Feature (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcaZbNi0HWE)
For the engine I chose the latest SR motor I could get before the S15 Model, so this is a 1998 Black top motor with VTC and a stock Garrett T28 turbocharger. The engine is totally stock and ready to be driven daily, or ready for your meticulous build. The engine set was purchased through Heavy Throttle Performance and installed at SPI Power Excel in NJ. There it underwent the bulk of the swap while I worked on the suspension , brakes and drive train layout. The stock SR20 5 speed transmission was used along with a custom balanced driveshaft that mats up to a R200 rear differential from a Turbo S12 Silvia (4.11 gearing – Open). I purchased 280ZX turbo CV shafts and had them rebuilt before installation. I also installed stronger stub axels from the 280Z.
As for engine Modifications the SR20 has remained stock it’s whole life. The engine runs off the stock SR20 ECU and power to the rest of the car is done through a Painless Wiring Switch panel located snugly where the glove box was. Also there, are all the fuses and relays. Power wise, it was dyno'ed at 250whp/260ft lbs. Keep in mind the car only weighs 2,200lbs with the all aluminum SR nestled in a front mid engine configuration. The remaining details I will include in a list format.
Engine Bay:
Custom Mandrel bent and polished Intercooler piping
Custom Intercooler
Genuine ARC Blow Off Valve
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Z32 MAF
Griffin Aluminum Radiator
Flex-a-light 3,300 cfm Radiator Fan w/ Thermostat switch
Brand new Brake Booster
Brand new 280ZX Brake Master Cylinder
Brand new 280Z Clutch Master Cylinder
Custom Steel Clutch Lines
Spec Stage 1 Full Disc Clutch (perfect streetabilty - clamps great cause car is so light)
Suspension/Brakes:
Arizona Zcar Coilover System w/ Pillow ball mounts and Camber Plates for adjustment
Customized KYB shocks. (The Koni reds from AZ-Zcar were way too hard.)
250lb springs in Front
375lb springs in Rear (extra set of springs comes with car)
KYB shocks
4 Piston Toyota 4 runner Front Calipers
Steel Braided lines all around
New rear drums and shoes
Inside:
Defi Link Gauges
AEM Wideband
Apexi SAFC-II (to run Z32 MAF)
Blitz Turbo Timer (used as Volt gauge)
HKS EVC-4 (Seems to have failed – has not been in use for 2yrs)
Nardi wheel with Quick release hub
JIC Magic (CROSS) Seats and rails
Sparco 4 Point Harnesses
ABS plastic dashboard overlay
10 Gal Aluminum Fuel Cell
All fuel lines are Steel braided with AN fittings
Walbro 255 Inline Fuel Pump + Inline Aeromotive Fuel Filter
Alarm System
Under Car:
R200 Diff with 4.11 Gearing - open. Snappy acceleration!
Custom Boxed Steel Cross member with Stock SR20 engine mounts.
Custom Transmission Mount plate with Polyurethane bushings
Divorced 02 housing (Brand new 02 sensor installed)
Full 3” Custom Exhaust with no Catalytic converter and 5Zigen Muffler at exit
Body:
240ZG Replica Overfenders (Fiberglass)
BRE Replica Rear Spoiler (Fiberglass)
Flat Style Front Airdam (Fiberglass)
Genuine Nissan Fairlady Z badges
Genuine Nissan Fender Mirrors
280Z Hood Vents
Hood Pins (hood pop was removed for some reason)
15”x8” Prime Wheels all around with -32mm offset.
New Windshield installed upon purchase due to crack from rock chip
Now listed are the quirks and suggestions:
The heater core was bypassed because it leaked, this created a small rust hole in the floor which is now repaired (8/28/10). Included with sale is a new heater core for buyer to install if they want heat.
The weather stripping for the doors are from another type of car and don’t fit perfectly. Jams are not painted, I can paint them satin black if you choose.
For unknown reasons the car will not start in ice cold temperatures unless a spray of starter fluid is used. I did not mind this because I never drove the car in the winter. It was garage kept during the cold/salt season.
A tach adapter needs to be installed for the Defi Tach to work. Right now you can get Tach readings from the SAFC-II.
The Oil Temp gauge needs a Temp sensor installed, I was not given one during purchase.
There is no Speedo, a large Tach and Boost gauge are behind the wheel. I sourced a heads up display speedo that would use GPS but I never got around to purchasing it.
The paint was done 3-4yrs ago and looks stunning, though it has a couple spots that aren’t perfect when you look real close, no one notices. The front corner markers were shaved but the paint bubbled a bit, you can cover it up by putting the stock corner markers back or, or leave it since its not too noticeable.
The back bumper is covered in chrome tape as a temp fix until I found a decent cheap bumper, but that never happened so the tape remains.
Reverse lights aren’t hooked up, nor are the signal lights, these can be wired up easily in such a primitive car, but not something I'm in the mood to do.
My main suggestions would be installing a roll cage or welding in strut braces This is an old car and could use a rigidity upgrade. The front brakes are non-vented disks. There are Vented bolt on brake conversions ranging from $450-$1200 (Wilwood). The car stops well on the streets, but if you plan tracking the car or doing a lot of highway miles, I would recommend the brakes be upgraded. Installing an LSD would really help this car get some traction as well, because even at 9.5psi the rear tires run a muck in 1st and 2nd gears.
I put A LOT of money and sweat into this little S30 for the past 7 years and It’s been a long mental battle to get the words “I’m selling it” out of my mouth, but I have some debt I need to kill off and other car plans I want to move onto. I barely drive it anymore and it kills me to know it’s just sitting. I put maybe 5,000 miles on this car since I’ve had it. I'm in the hole just over $20,000. My price is $13,000 . NO TRADES. I’m located on Staten Island, NY.
I have not taken any 'For Sale pics' yet so here are the most recent ones I've taken.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC03015.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC03018.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02969.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02972.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/IMG_4324-1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/CopyofIMG_4319.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/FullBoostOrBust/DSC02913-Copy.jpg
I don't have any recent pics of the engine bay, but you can see it in the video below. Again, not a 'for sale video', just something I made for fun last spring.
VIDEO BELOW
YouTube - SrFairladyZ SR20DET S30 Datsun 240Z Grindhouse Feature (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcaZbNi0HWE)