Going to replace the oil pan gasket

[Mangudai]

Anything else I should think about replacing in the process? S14.


Peace.

[XxCAPTAINxX]

this should probably go into small questions thread. i think youll have better luck

[kalypso123]

no not really, there's not much down there...

you could add a magnetic drain plug...

and get new oil pan bolts...

and throw on one of these....
http://image.nengun.com/catalogue/350x250/nengun-0663-00-nismo-power_brace_ii.jpg


lol

[Sam_Well.13]

Try and remove your oil pick up and clean the screen out of any type of debris. Other than that, that's all pretty much what you can do, maybe the drain plug gasket.

[Mangudai]

Thanks for the replies. The power brace is dope, one day. Soon.

Try and remove your oil pick up and clean the screen out of any type of debris. Other than that, that's all pretty much what you can do, maybe the drain plug gasket.


Yea that's what I thought, figured Id ask anyway though.

[az_240]

Aren't you supposed to use RTV?

[Pacman]

You're either gonna have to raise the engine slightly or lower the crossmember down (holding the engine with a brace at this top) to gain enough access to drop the pan out. It really depends on what tools you have available on how you can do it. You may need to replace the pan to prevent seepage depending how deformed it is/get when you removed it. I don't recommend a cork gasket that you can get from Fel-Pro, they end up leaking. Use a good RTV (I like Toyota's FIPG, bonds REALLY well, but then again, I get that stuff all day long at work) and get the surface clean and make sure to let no oil get at the seal. Let it dry for AT LEAST a few hours before adding oil. Honda-Bond works real well at sealing things as well, Never used the Nissan stuff, got a tube of it in my box, too.

[240Raver]

As stated previously, i would take a look at the oil pickup when it's exposed. Sometimes the fins on it tend to bend up or get a little smashed from hitting the oil pan. Check the oil pan also to make sure that doesn't have any divets or dents in it causing it to be convave on the inside of the pan. I know i had these problems when replacing my oil pan gasket.

[Mangudai]

You're either gonna have to raise the engine slightly or lower the crossmember down (holding the engine with a brace at this top) to gain enough access to drop the pan out. It really depends on what tools you have available on how you can do it. You may need to replace the pan to prevent seepage depending how deformed it is/get when you removed it. I don't recommend a cork gasket that you can get from Fel-Pro, they end up leaking. Use a good RTV (I like Toyota's FIPG, bonds REALLY well, but then again, I get that stuff all day long at work) and get the surface clean and make sure to let no oil get at the seal. Let it dry for AT LEAST a few hours before adding oil. Honda-Bond works real well at sealing things as well, Never used the Nissan stuff, got a tube of it in my box, too.


Yea its going to be a pain in the ass. I don't have the tools do to it right now so im just going to have a shop do it. The dealership wanted $700. I figured all RTV is pretty much that same though I do hear good things about Hondabond.

[samms95s14se]

Unscrew the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine to gain clearance to slide the oil pan out. I used a Fel-pro gasket and buttered the top of the gasket with RTV. If you try and use only RTV it will scrap off when you try and slide the pan back into place and because the area where the RVT goes is so narrow that if any of it gets scraped off you will leak for sure. Also I used a few zip ties to keep the gasket in place then when I was ready to bolt it up I just cut the zip ties and pulled them out.

On a side note if you have the money.... PAY someone to do it!! The main pain is bolting back in the oil sump because the bolts would keep dropping back into the oil pan and then you have to slide it back out to take out the bolts you dropped in.

[murda-c]

motor mounts and steering rack bushings should be easier with the engine jacked up.

[Pacman]

Unscrew the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine to gain clearance to slide the oil pan out. I used a Fel-pro gasket and buttered the top of the gasket with RTV. If you try and use only RTV it will scrap off when you try and slide the pan back into place and because the area where the RVT goes is so narrow that if any of it gets scraped off you will leak for sure. Also I used a few zip ties to keep the gasket in place then when I was ready to bolt it up I just cut the zip ties and pulled them out.

On a side note if you have the money.... PAY someone to do it!! The main pain is bolting back in the oil sump because the bolts would keep dropping back into the oil pan and then you have to slide it back out to take out the bolts you dropped in.

Hence the reason that you either raise the engine up A LOT or use a crossbrace to hold the engine and lower the engine cross member (like i did) you won't have to remove the pickup tube. I've done the "slathering the cork gasket with RTV" and it caused a bigger leak. Use one or the other (gasket or RTV).

[CheesyDeluxe]

On a side note if you have the money.... PAY someone to do it!! The main pain is bolting back in the oil sump because the bolts would keep dropping back into the oil pan and then you have to slide it back out to take out the bolts you dropped in.

:duh: I too dropped the bolts into the pan when trying to put everything back together.

To the OP, if you're going to do the method of just raising the engine and sliding the pan out, invest in some ratcheting wrenches. They will be your best friend when you reinstall the oil pick-up and pan. A mini magnetic wand wouldn't hurt either.

[Bushido]

fuuuuuuuuuuuck,


my oil pan is dented to shit..

im going to be the asshole to do this job in the near near future... like tomorrow.

so whats the consensus? no gasket and only rtv or what????

[stinky_180]

http://imgur.com/aURAx.jpg

If I had to remove the oil pan, I would do a timing chain job. Possibly replace the oil pump.

[PoorMans180SX]

Only RTV.

I did mine on the ground. I removed the nuts for the engine mounts and unbolted my coilovers (So I could drop the sway bar down farther out of the way, my sway bar endlinks wouldn't come off.), and used only black RTV. Got it on first try, no bolts dropped. Let it dry overnight with no oil in it and the plug out (so the inside could cure).

Fill it with oil, start it up, done.

[samms95s14se]

Hence the reason that you either raise the engine up A LOT or use a crossbrace to hold the engine and lower the engine cross member (like i did) you won't have to remove the pickup tube. I've done the "slathering the cork gasket with RTV" and it caused a bigger leak. Use one or the other (gasket or RTV).

I'm going on 4 years or so with the buttered rvt cork gasket and not one drop of oil is leaking or even looking like it wants to leak. Maybe installation error when putting it in? How could the Felpro cork gasket people still be in business if they all leaked after you put it in? That would be a dumb invention to sell and still stay in business for years. Again mine doesn't leak. Also when jacking my engine up the top / back of the valve cover was hitting the break line stuff on the firewall I believe so I couldn't raise it up any higher.