S14 Suspension build thread.....

[doyle4281]

I would first like to thank Donovan of Yamato Garage and Ryan from BallerBolts for the fantastic products. They unknowingly, motivated me to go into greater detail with the build to compliment their products. This thread will focus primarily on the process from beginning to end of the restoration and upgrade of the suspension, brakes, and chassis on my S14 240sx. Feel free to ask questions and post comments, positive or negative are fun too.

The car started off as a completely stock S14 SE from New Jersey, which is why the suspension is such a rusty horrible mess. Every square inch was covered with rust and was extremely difficult to disassemble for that reason.
http://a.imageshack.us/img529/7315/035hu.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img180/4863/047tp.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img844/8396/037pu.jpg

Every bushing was torn and rotted, which was the first order of business. Started by burning out the old subframe bushings, which is pretty easily done with a small torch and a hammer.
http://a.imageshack.us/img31/6881/041rq.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img153/7960/040vs.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img5/7096/073wq.jpg

After the inserts are have been removed, you must burn and chisel away as much of the rubber as possible. The result will be something like this.....
http://a.imageshack.us/img411/1541/087el.jpg

At this point the sleeves are ready to be removed according to the instructions provided by the manufacture of bushings you are using. I opted to use Energy Suspension bushings, which include reasonably clear instructions on how to remove the sleeves. The bushings ended up fitting perfectly.
http://www.energysuspension.com/assets/files/pdf/17486.PDF
http://a.imageshack.us/img202/7528/007ehr.jpg

To remove the inner cage, you will need to make relief cuts around the inside and bend the cage inward. A mini pneumatic reciprocating saw will make this task much easier. Two cuts 180 degrees apart will allow the metal the fold in towards the middle. Be careful not to cut through the sill on the bottom of the hole. It can then be hammered out through the bottom with a chisel.
http://a.imageshack.us/img838/9570/082eo.jpg

The inner sleeve it a little more difficult to remove, as the metal is a thicker and you must be very careful not to cut through to the subframe. I accomplished this by carefully making relief cuts about an inch apart, and bending the sleeve inward. You will then be able to hammer the whole sleeve through from the bottom.
http://a.imageshack.us/img691/3406/088yc.jpg

Starting come out.....
http://a.imageshack.us/img704/3064/090zk.jpg

All the way out.....
http://a.imageshack.us/img20/583/084kd.jpg

After they are out wire wheel everything clean, and you should end up with something like this....
http://a.imageshack.us/img62/3768/092r.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img29/5945/096su.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img59/8929/094hx.jpg

The subframe was then washed, sanded, primed and painted Graphite Gray
http://a.imageshack.us/img46/5205/002nj.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img4/3743/006pqu.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img844/6753/010it.jpg

The bushings are then simply pushed in (ended up switching to black bushings, for cosmetic reasons only)
http://a.imageshack.us/img295/8661/015je.jpg

I next moved on to the rear spindles, which were especially difficult to separate from the hubs. If you come across this problem, partially thread the 4 bolts into the hub and evenly hit the bolts until the hub separates from the spindle. I then burned out the bushings,and cut out the metal sleeves in a similar fashion as the subframe sleeves. They were then bead blasted, taped, and powder coated matte black. I then installed the Energy Suspension bushing set using a lot of lubrication and a vice.
http://a.imageshack.us/img714/7935/002qzk.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img840/1961/037lf.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img690/893/039jw.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img833/862/049v.jpg

[gunluvS14]

nice work so far!

[victorw210]

nice lookin clean

[Om1kron]

rad I can dig this.

[az_240]

Should have installed zerk fittings on those uprights... those will be making noise and binding in no time.

[ManoNegra]

so baller bolts ----> suspension work???? lol
work looks top notch
poly bushings in the upright on the other hand....

[endlessboost]

Looks awesome so far!

[blueshark123]

i found a cheap powdercoater in jersey if u ever needed anything done

[NightSlider]

damn thats nice.

[blueshark123]

Should have installed zerk fittings on those uprights... those will be making noise and binding in no time.

can someone inform me about zerk fittings a little more please

[ManoNegra]

can someone inform me about zerk fittings a little more please

cut grooves into the poly bushings with a dremel or compatible tool
drill a hole on each upright location to the ID where each bushing is installed
tap the holes and install zerk fittings that you can use a grease gun on
these will allow you to service the bushings for grease periodically as needed
and keep them from squeaking and/or binding

do a little bit of searching as a few people have done and written about this

[eklips3]

very nice , keep up the good work dude , everything looks clean.

i am learning from this

[thefro526]

I like this thread.

Where in Jersey are you from?

Do you drive CL at all?

[dopplganger1]

Polyurethane bushing grease fitting install - Nissan Road Racing Forums (http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=554) there is a thread talking about the zerk fittings he got the idea from a friends mustang bushings that came like that, Im in the process of doing this myself

[Wabash9000]

nice. I just did this exact thing to my s14.

bought an extra subframe and took the time to build it with mostly new parts, cleaned up and painted the subframe, replaced the bushings, ballerbolts kit. I didn't take apart the spindles and paint them, but I did everything else. nice work man.

[blueshark123]

Polyurethane bushing grease fitting install - Nissan Road Racing Forums (http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=554) there is a thread talking about the zerk fittings he got the idea from a friends mustang bushings that came like that, Im in the process of doing this myself


thanks alot i was up all night looking for something like this. I guess i can go to town now with my extra spindle set haha

[doyle4281]

Thank you for the kind words. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask.


The rear lower control arms were up next, which were in desperate need of refreshment. The ball joints were worn, the bushings were rotted, and covered in rust. I started by burning out the old bushings, and removing the sleeves, again using the same technique as the subframe. The arms were then taken to the press and the ball joints were pushed out. After a good cleaning, I stripped the factory paint off, bead blasted, and powder coated "Mirror Silver". The bushings were then lubed up and pushed in with the vice, and ball joints were carefully pushed in on the press.
http://a.imageshack.us/img256/8175/101zgy.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img64/6813/085kp.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img153/2765/102lbz.jpg

Since there is no part number for an S14 rear ball joint, an alternative needed to be sourced. After some research, I saw quite a few different possibilities, however very few concrete answers. I used a dial indicator to compare the front and rear S14 ball joints, and they were nearly identical. They went in without a problem, and the snap ring fit in the proper place.
http://a.imageshack.us/img707/6725/086wg.jpg


Like everything else, the axles had seen better days. Although they showed no signs of mechanical problems, they were cosmetically deceased.
http://a.imageshack.us/img844/8396/037pu.jpg

I started by Glass beading them clean, and taping them off for paint. I had considered powder coat, but I was unsure how they would handle the oven.
http://a.imageshack.us/img710/6074/014fb.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img176/2251/017il.jpg

VHT paint was the applied, which appears to be strong enough to take some abuse.
http://a.imageshack.us/img13/5185/009ayg.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img72/7147/011be.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img810/5228/015tu.jpg


Aside from looking like I pulled it from the bottom of a lake, the open-diff had to go.
http://a.imageshack.us/img180/4863/047tp.jpg

I opted to go with a J30 VLSD, as it was compatible with my 6-bolt axles. It was in excellent condition, and only required minor cleaning. I applied copper anti-seize to the flanges to prevent corrosion.
http://a.imageshack.us/img809/2928/037ix.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img541/6481/034qj.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img812/1812/035aq.jpg

[heavenboundkevin]

if you can answer this for me that would be great.

Why didnt you use a dremel to make the notches and install zerk fittings to make greasing them easier?

is it not necessary? from what i know, people that dont do it just remove the parts to grease them.

[doyle4281]

if you can answer this for me that would be great.

Why didnt you use a dremel to make the notches and install zerk fittings to make greasing them easier?

is it not necessary? from what i know, people that dont do it just remove the parts to grease them.

The installation of zirc fittings is new to me, however seems like an efficient means of lubricating the bushings. I may decide to install them down the road, as it seems to be pretty simple, however it is too late now. The old fashion way will have to do until then.

[codyace]

Your work is great, and effort even better

But if I had to suggest anything, it would really behoove you to look into the Roll Center Thread on Zilvia, as well as checking out NissanRoadRacing for some tips/suggestions/better ideas in regard to parts for your rear subframe...some of the work you're performing on stock parts could easily be spent on upgraded ones, which would really benefit your car.

Again, great stuff, but do some real suspension modification searching and you'll thank all of us for getting at it while the subframe is off the car, rather than on.

[upsdude]

cool write up, where did you get the copper flanges for your diff?

any particular reason why you went with poly subframe bushings over solid?

[az_240]

Watch out for those rear lower control arm ES bushings too... those binded the worst when I had them on my car. Same deal as the uprights... trim or washers so the poly does not get sandwiched and bind against the brackets. I trimmed mine down with the side of a stone grinder (keeps the trim flat)... just don't trim them too much or the arms will move around as the suspension travels. It's best if the inner sleeves are flush or barely sticking out from the poly bushing.

You could chop those ES subframe bushings down a little on the top to raise the subframe and correct the geometry some if your car is lowered.

Not sure what else he could upgrade for about the same amount of money.... every quality adjustable part costs a good amount. Looks like a good "stockish" build.

[projectRDM]

While the subframe was out I would have replaced the rear differential bushings too.

Otherwise good work.

[codyace]

any particular reason why you went with poly subframe bushings over solid?

While not speaking for him, I know I personally went with them to keep noise down, while performance there. To be quite honest, the durameter of the ES stuff is very hard, and I can't particularly see a huge advantage of the aluminum, at least in my lifetime.



Not sure what else he could upgrade for about the same amount of money.... every quality adjustable part costs a good amount. Looks like a good "stockish" build.

My comment was directed at trimming the top of the subframe bushings down (and the metal sleeve), possibly filling the subframe with foam while it's out (great cheap modification), maybe welding some gussets on the OE lower control arms to replicate 'nismo' ones, etc etc...small things. It wasn't meant as a 'you're doing it wrong' but more of a 'while it's out, maybe address these issues' kinda thing.

[doyle4281]

cool write up, where did you get the copper flanges for your diff?

any particular reason why you went with poly subframe bushings over solid?

Thanks man

The flanges were only coated with a copper anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion. After dealing with that rusted disaster, I wanted to be sure I would not have problems like that in the future. Anything that is susceptible to rust, I apply anti-seize to.

I opted to install polyurethane bushings as opposed to solid because the car is not going to see enough track time to merit their benefits. For that very same reason, I did not fill the subframe with foam, weld supports, or other track preparations. I knew realistically that the benefits of those type of upgrades would were not going to be utilized.

Thank you for the comments, and I will keep the updates coming.....

[doyle4281]

I want to thank Donovan of Yamato Garage for all of his help and patience. The quality and fit of these products are amazing, and for the price you can't get better. They use QA1 rod ends, stainless steel tubing, heat treated hardware, and a powder coated finish. I cannot say enough good things about this company, and the people who run it. Contact Donovan, make mention of the thread, and I am sure he will help with anything you need.

home-yamato garage (http://www.yamatogarage.com/)

I purchased the full set, and for an extra fee, they were powder coated the color of my choice.
http://a.imageshack.us/img411/7302/043in.jpg

QA1 2-piece rod ends, chrome plated ball
http://a.imageshack.us/img530/6900/028rq.jpg

Monobeam T-6061 aluminium tension rod
http://a.imageshack.us/img683/9649/053ul.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img689/1049/054ly.jpg

Stainless steel ball-head design RUCA
http://a.imageshack.us/img25/5847/049re.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img28/7410/048tj.jpg

Stainless steel monobeam toe control rod
http://a.imageshack.us/img832/559/059k.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img828/8202/060gs.jpg

Stainless steel traction rod
http://a.imageshack.us/img25/2497/065ur.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img189/2812/068oa.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img268/6830/029nis.jpg

[HEI240]

awesome thread makes me wanna look for a spare subframe lol

[YamatoGarage]

awsome glad to see you are happy with the parts, and kudos for the build i am glad to see such attention to datail and build quality. keep the pics and info coming i cant wait to see where this is going , great job !

donovan

[godrifttoday]

My comment was directed at trimming the top of the subframe bushings down (and the metal sleeve), possibly filling the subframe with foam while it's out (great cheap modification), maybe welding some gussets on the OE lower control arms to replicate 'nismo' ones, etc etc...small things. It wasn't meant as a 'you're doing it wrong' but more of a 'while it's out, maybe address these issues' kinda thing.

Hey u mention to fill the subframe with foam , are u referring to the foam they sell on homedepot? And u also mention bracing the lower control arm brackets like nismo, do u have a pix of what u are refeering to? Since I am also working in my rear subframe but it's an s13. From what I notice my diff doesn't have a bushing where it's mounted to is this only for s14 which have bushings on the diff? Thanks!

[doyle4281]

I did a test fit of all the suspension arms, and everything fit great.

http://a.imageshack.us/img38/2172/031cy.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img29/7906/035nh.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img43/7545/054am.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img192/3756/061oi.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img839/6485/066q.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img825/5765/070m.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img17/6578/085mik.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img228/6844/052kn.jpg

[doyle4281]

During the disassembly of the rear suspension a couple of the eccentric bolts were damaged due to rust. Not needing eccentric bolts for alignment adjustments, as I am using adjustable arms, I needed to find compatible replacements. After some research I stumbled upon Ballerbolts.com, and my prayers were answered. Thank you Ryan


BallerBolts.com offers, not only eccentric bolt lockout kits for the 240sx, but they offer nearly every suspension bolt for the car. Aside from that they offer full SR20 engine fastener kits, titanium dress up kits, titanium suspension bolt kits, and much more. Every fastener far exceeds OEM strength, and cosmetically is not even comparable to old rusted bolts. These are a must for anyone wanting to take their build to the next level. Contact Ryan, and he will get you anything you need.

240SX Bolts, S13-Bolts (http://ballerbolts.com/240sx-fastener-kits.html)

I purchased the full S14 suspension set, which replaces all of the rear suspension bolts, axle bolts, driveshaft bolts, and eliminates the eccentric bolts. They have 12-point heads, amazing zinc coating, and U-lock nuts.

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2138/018kh.jpg

Eccentric lockout
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4479/020ck.jpg

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3733/039dv.jpg

U-lock nut
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3765/032cb.jpg

Axle bolts, driveshaft bolts, tension rod bolts
http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/9773/009yd.jpg

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3806/010vx.jpg

A lot better than this, don't you think?
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7748/050kuy.jpg

[Slikk Logic]

dam fresh frame.i jus picked up my s14 from pa.its not that bad but i got this wierd click in reverse sounds lyk the frame moving

[bb4_96]

How much did full set of arms run you? The full set of hardware from baller?

[mattack69]

good job mans!! shit looks dope. definately have to see pics of this up under your car.

[Edwin562]

too clean, u can just eat off it... keep the good work going

[doyle4281]

How much did full set of arms run you? The full set of hardware from baller?


If you contact Donovan at Yamato Garage, he will be able to give you a quote. Contact Ryan at Ballerbolts.com for any bolt you can imagine. For the price, Yamato Garage products are unbeatable, and upon request can be coated a custom color. Ballerbolts are far superior to OEM in every way, and are cheaper. Any bolt that I need replaced I go to Ryan, and he helps me out. Make mention of this thread to either of them and they may just hook you up.

Thanks for all the comments, I will keep the updates coming......

[shinhed]

One of my favorite build threads, despite the lack of a car.

My S13 subframe build was almost exactly the same except, Ballerbolts and Yamato didn't exist at the time.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/JewGal/ar/100_0622.jpg

Will definitely be using both their services when I begin my S14 tear down in October.

[doyle4281]

One of my favorite build threads, despite the lack of a car.

My S13 subframe build was almost exactly the same except, Ballerbolts and Yamato didn't exist at the time.


Will definitely be using both their services when I begin my S14 tear down in October.

Thanks man, you did a great job on your subframe as well. I highly recommend both Ballerbolts and Yamato Garage products, not only for the price, but the quality. When you are ready, make mention of this thread, and they may hook you up.

As for the lack of car in the thread.....I wanted to make this thread dedicated specifically to the suspension, so the products that were installed were highlighted. Even though the rest of the car is too far along to start a build thread from the beginning, I will still be making a thread starting from the point I am at now......Thanks again for the comments

These are some old pictures of the car.....
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/229178-my-rb25det-s14.html

Everything roughly in place.....
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6528/img0956e.jpg

[schrapnel85]

thanks for making this thread,gave me alot of info and makes me really excited to do mine over the winter!

[doyle4281]

thanks for making this thread,gave me alot of info and makes me really excited to do mine over the winter!

My pleasure, I will be posting updates soon, which will include the rest of the rear and the front. Thank you for all the comments.

[Backintoans13]

Fucking sick shit, this is what im planning to do with mine, waiting on which links im going to go with so i can paint the subframe the same color. Great attention to detail man, updates??

[eklips3]

why not go with aluminum subframe bushings ?

[dudermagee]

very nice , keep up the good work dude , everything looks clean.

i am learning from this

apparently you're not

why not go with aluminum subframe bushings ?

He already went over that

Thanks man

The flanges were only coated with a copper anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion. After dealing with that rusted disaster, I wanted to be sure I would not have problems like that in the future. Anything that is susceptible to rust, I apply anti-seize to.

I opted to install polyurethane bushings as opposed to solid because the car is not going to see enough track time to merit their benefits. For that very same reason, I did not fill the subframe with foam, weld supports, or other track preparations. I knew realistically that the benefits of those type of upgrades would were not going to be utilized.

Thank you for the comments, and I will keep the updates coming.....

[schrapnel85]

subscribed, any updates?

[doyle4281]

Sorry for the lack of updates, I am at work and school full time now. I will post more updates later tonight, thanks for the interest.

[hammy]

Nice work, tedious. gives me inspiration for my extra subframe i have.

[RTB.1054]

Nice to see people take pride in their work I'm in the process of doing the same I have all the rear arms by circuit sports wanted to go with stance but couldn't wait to save some more money also stance diff sold bushings Z32 diff with axles (NA) that I will paint as well.hopefully it fits I will also do Z32 brake swap with E brake I got calipers powder coated,I just need rear subframe.

[Imarvin240]

looks great man, not many people think about redoing the bushings when they do there suspensions hah its good you're doing it all in one shot though

[doyle4281]

As promised, here are some more pictures from the rear suspension build. This portion of the build has actually been done for quite some time, so this post will take us right to the finished product. Thanks to everyone following along, and I will begin posting the front suspension next....

After test fitting all the suspension arms, to verify the fit, everything was disassembled for prevent damaging anything during the installation of the heavier components.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8661/015je.jpg


The red Energy Suspension subframe bushings were removed, in favor of the black, for cosmetic reasons only
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/5247/009pqi.jpg


The subframe was theN placed on jack stands, and then the differential was raised into placed. The factory bolts were used, however they were all bead blasted and powder coated.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6474/036wv.jpg

Anti-seize applied
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6453/032ox.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9971/002uxx.jpg



Next up was installing the rear Z32 Emergency brake drum assembly to the spindles....

The backing plates were acid dipped and powder coated gloss black...
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/914/016dnu.jpg

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1251/020zwt.jpg

The hubs where properly taped off, bead blasted and sprayed silver. I was hesitant to powder coat them, as I was unsure if the seals could handle the 500 degree temperatures.
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6239/050u.jpg

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7785/047wv.jpg

The large hole in the spindle that the post on the drum assembly goes through needed to be opened up a bit, as the post would not fit. I am unsure if that was due to the powder coat or if it is normal with this conversion. I simply used a steeper drill bit and opened the hole until the post fit properly.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8609/064hg.jpg

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/4638/060wy.jpg

Of course, anti-seize was then applied....
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8831/053mj.jpg

http://img703.imageshack.us/i/052xu.jpg/

The backing plate was then placed on the spindle, the drum assembly was secured to the plate by the springs, and the spindle was bolted through the back of the spindle.
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7785/047wv.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8513/068su.jpg

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5631/073sv.jpg


Prior to installing the suspension arms, I applied and aircraft decal edge sealer. We use it at work to prevent decals from lifting off the airplanes at 600 mph.
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6917/040cy.jpg

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4382/041dq.jpg


The suspension arms and the spindles were then installed to the subframe...
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2711/001emg.jpg


The axles were then slipped into the splines in the hubs, and then bolted to the differential using the BallerBolts.com fasteners. The axle nut is then torqued, the retainer and cotter pin are installed. The axles are different lengths, the driverside being the shorter of the two, from what I remember.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3434/009ewa.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/2408/015xu.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2073/014ya0.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9498/028il.jpg


I will cover the braking setup, at a later date, but when all is said and done, you end up with something like this. Thanks to Donovan at Yamato Garage, and Ryan at BallerBolts for offering such great products. Subscribe to see the rest of the build. Thanks

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4103/001lhm.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/885/033tr.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8772/032gjy.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3804/022yq.jpg


http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/402/023ka.jpg

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/3192/048vh.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2753/035dj.jpg



http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7158/041nb.jpg

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9705/017dhl.jpg


http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/2159/053bq.jpg

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9083/044sb.jpg

[boyou2]

awesome

great job ;)

[RTB.1054]

Very nice, I found a subframe that I'll be bringing back to life. Please post alignment specs when you get to it.

[doyle4281]

Very nice, I found a subframe that I'll be bringing back to life. Please post alignment specs when you get to it.

Thanks guys. As far as the alignment goes, I made a jig to accurately measure the length of the OEM arms, and adjusted the Yamato arms to the same length. I wanted to have a drivable baseline, so I could drive the car to get an alignment.

[doyle4281]

These are the wheels that are going on the car. They are Work Emotion XD9's that have been custom coated by Work. The XD9's only came in a matte silver (MGS) finish, however I really wanted more of a gunmetal finish. I contacted Work and they agreed to coat them in their matte gunmetal (MGM) finish for an additional cost. It took 6 months, but they came out great.

18x9 +20 Front/ 18X10 +18 Rear
245 Front/265 Rear
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/193/056ak.jpg

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9026/057e.jpg

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/7714/058us.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1761/059tg.jpg

[M11's]

what are those type of bolt ends called, eccentric? why did you choose over regular hex bolts

[schrapnel85]

great job again, keep it up! looking forward to the front suspension!

[doyle4281]

what are those type of bolt ends called, eccentric? why did you choose over regular hex bolts

All of the suspension bolts are from BallerBolts.com. They are zinc plated, 12 point head, and far exceed factory strength. The fasteners for the upper control arms and toe control are eccentric lockouts. Since they control arms are all adjustable, there is no longer a need for the eccentric adjustment. These fasteners were one of the components that motivated me to go the extra mile with the rest of the build.

Contact Ryan at BallerBolts.com, make mention of this thread, and he will help you with whatever you need

[MIKE-240sx]

subframe looks sick keep up the good work ! what part # are those es bushings for the spindles?

[onehundredoctane]

all this work and still keeping stock wheel studs?
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/2159/053bq.jpg

[doyle4281]

all this work and still keeping stock wheel studs?
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/2159/053bq.jpg


I was considering changing them to longer studs, but I had already purchased the closed face lug nuts. I may install longer studs in the future if needed.

[az_240]

^I think your RUCAs are backwards.... they typically point down so they don't hit the pinch weld in that area. Yours are pointing up.

Also I said it before but I'll say it again. Those ES bushings that go in the spindles/LCAs SUCK. They create a ton of stiction so the suspension cannot travel as easily even when well greased (the grease only lasts 2 months max anyway). You end up feeling everything in the road like it's train tracks or something. I could not move my suspensioin at all by hand when I had the shock disconnected and ES bushings installed.

If you have the money sphericals are a far superior option (the sphericals do wear out quicker but replacements are only like $10 each and they slide right out of the housing for easy replacement). If not i'd try to source some OEM/nismo bushings.

[Michael Nolan]

This was the thread I was in need of. Subscribed.

[coup-emonster]

all i have to say is..wow..completely flawless...this build is truly a work of art bro keep it up man i cant wait to see the end product

[onehundredoctane]

I was considering changing them to longer studs, but I had already purchased the closed face lug nuts. I may install longer studs in the future if needed.
I would suggest it, along with some Muteki SR48's open ended.

[doyle4281]

^I think your RUCAs are backwards.... they typically point down so they don't hit the pinch weld in that area. Yours are pointing up.

Also I said it before but I'll say it again. Those ES bushings that go in the spindles/LCAs SUCK. They create a ton of stiction so the suspension cannot travel as easily even when well greased (the grease only lasts 2 months max anyway). You end up feeling everything in the road like it's train tracks or something. I could not move my suspensioin at all by hand when I had the shock disconnected and ES bushings installed.

If you have the money sphericals are a far superior option (the sphericals do wear out quicker but replacements are only like $10 each and they slide right out of the housing for easy replacement). If not i'd try to source some OEM/nismo bushings.

The poly bushings are a concern of mine as well. I was considering installing zirc fittings if the bushings wear prematurely, however I will look into sphericals. Thanks bro

[az_240]

I did the zerk fittings.... total waste of time. I even cut extra grooves thinking there would be less stiction..... nope.

Disconnect one of those arms from the subframe and try moving it up and down on the upright side and you will see what I mean... now imagine trying to move all 5 of those bushings up and down at the same time(the ES RLCA bushings are the worst).

People only recommend them because they don't know what is going on with their suspension... Yeah they will make your car stiff but in the wrong places... the bushings basically over-power the cheap chinese coils everyone runs and you end up with a bouncy ride at low speeds.

[doyle4281]

I did the zerk fittings.... total waste of time. I even cut extra grooves thinking there would be less stiction..... nope.

Disconnect one of those arms from the subframe and try moving it up and down on the upright side and you will see what I mean... now imagine trying to move all 5 of those bushings up and down at the same time(the ES RLCA bushings are the worst).

People only recommend them because they don't know what is going on with their suspension... Yeah they will make your car stiff but in the wrong places... the bushings basically over-power the cheap chinese coils everyone runs and you end up with a bouncy ride at low speeds.

Thanks for the heads up. Everything seems to move freely as of now, however the grease is still fresh. I plan on doing periodic inspections during the first few weeks of driving to be sure everything is still tight and still adjusted.

[kenshinS14sks]

wow this is inspiring. . . how long did it take from start to finish?

[doyle4281]

wow this is inspiring. . . how long did it take from start to finish?


The suspension did not take too long, however a lot of the work is labor intensive. Removing the subframe bushings, spindle bushings, and installing the new ones takes a little time. Aside from that, a lot of time was spent powder coating and painting.

[doyle4281]

Before all the suspension was installed I painted pretty much the entire underside of the car with a spray on bed liner product. It took about 5 cans to do the whole thing. Be sure to apply tape thoroughly, as there are quite a few small mounting holes that go through to the engine bay. There is nothing worse than black overspray on your shiny engine parts...trust me

Product...
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/6688/015pk.jpg

Front...
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/8538/012fl.jpg

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6615/022wg.jpg

Rear....
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6495/026gr.jpg

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9106/028uv.jpg

http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/6346/035bw.jpg

[RTB.1054]

Thanks guys. As far as the alignment goes, I made a jig to accurately measure the length of the OEM arms, and adjusted the Yamato arms to the same length. I wanted to have a drivable baseline, so I could drive the car to get an alignment.

Can you please note specs because I'll be doing the alignment myself on a HUNTER hawk eye and only have acess to factory specs

[doyle4281]

Can you please note specs because I'll be doing the alignment myself on a HUNTER hawk eye and only have acess to factory specs


I adjusted all the arms to the same length as the factory arms just so I can get the car to get the alignment done. I will be taking the car to SlideWayz Motorsports for corner balancing and suspension adjustment. They are a great group of guys and could help you with what you need.

Slidewayz Motorsports, LLC - Your Source for the Finest in Performance Parts - Homepage (http://www.slidewayzmotorsports.com/)
175 Fair St.
Palisades Park, NJ 07650
P: (201)-944-4955

[RTB.1054]

Good looking out I'll contact them thanks

[Fullboost TM]

Excellent work, Did you pressure wash or clean the underside of the car before bedlining it? I know some can get pretty dirty, and of course for better adhesion.

[A54]

5 star thread!

[doyle4281]

Excellent work, Did you pressure wash or clean the underside of the car before bedlining it? I know some can get pretty dirty, and of course for better adhesion.

Thank you everyone, I will keep the updates coming. I was unable to power wash the underside of the car, as I could not get it outside. I used compressed air to get any dirt and dust off, then used scotch-brite pads to loosen anything that the air couldn't, and finally I went over everything with paint surface prep. Like I mentioned before, take the time to tape eveything off properly.

[doyle4281]

The front suspension, although less extensive than the rear, still offered up its own challenges, and provided plenty of areas for upgrades. As most you from the northeast know, everything was pretty much rusted into its final resting place, and needed to be violently disassembled. The lower control arm was up first...

After removing the worn out ball joints on the press, it was time to remove the dried out bushings. My preferred method is heating the bushings up with a torch until you are able to hammer out the center metal portion.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/2694/007eod.jpg

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/8125/004hfc.jpg

You should turn out with something like this...
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/1059/003ec.jpg

Then using a chisel or screw driver, scrap as much of the rubber out as possible. Applying heat will make this easier....
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8983/002txy.jpg

After getting it as clean as possible, the rest will need to be removed with some aid from power tools. I used a Dremel tool, but a drill with a wire wheel, or I am sure number of other methods could be effective.
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/5995/008so.jpg


Once the bushing was completely removed, I used a very industrial chemical stripping agent to remove the OEM finish. There are other products and methods for removing paint, however nothing is faster than Benco B17 chemical stripper. It is expensive and not the safest product, but it will strip any you can throw at it.

After 3 minutes....
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1338/016idn.jpg

The draw back of chemical strippers is that the surface begins to oxidize almost immediately. The application of phosphoric acid immediately after stripping does prevent this from happening.
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/196/018gw.jpg

I then quickly glass bead the parts to remove the oxidation, and to completely clean the surface. Unless you plane on treating the surface immediately, you should keep the bare metal parts inside. The surface will begin to oxidize if left outside.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3116/027ob.jpg

At this point the arms are ready for powder coat, and you turn out with something like this....
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4476/117zu.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2779/121hk.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1268/128md.jpg

The Energy Suspension bushing are then slipped in, and the Moog (K9820) ball joints are pressed in.

[SHARKERIOcoupe]

dope man - can't wait to see the rest of your build. You took great pics of the product.
On the last picture when you received the shipment, did you place the bushing around the logo on purpose? That looks cool

[ILoveMyRHS13]

HOLY SHIT. Excellent work, sir!

[godrifttoday]

Y didnt you just glass bead them first why the need to remove the oem finish?

[doyle4281]

dope man - can't wait to see the rest of your build. You took great pics of the product.
On the last picture when you received the shipment, did you place the bushing around the logo on purpose? That looks cool

Thanks guys. I wanted to be sure that I properly photographed the products installed, as they deserve the detail. I will be starting another build thread in the very near future for another project I have been working on.

Here is a little clue....
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/8187/questiong.jpg

[doyle4281]

Y didnt you just glass bead them first why the need to remove the oem finish?

Bead blasting the OEM finish takes much longer than the chemical stripper. When bead blasting the oxidation off after stripping, it only takes a very quick pass to remove. I find that there are always little spots that are missed when trying to blast the OEM finish off. The stripper gets every last bit of the finish, so all you have to deal with is the oxidation, which is easy to remove. There are many ways to do this, however this is what I find to be the most effective.

[RTB.1054]

Any update pics? I can't wait to see it up in the car.

[s14freak93901]

awesome work. loving those XD9's. Apexi coilovers?

[RB180sxChris]

amazing job looks awesome cant wait to get started on mine....can't get any betta then this!!! 2 thumps up

[doyle4281]

Thanks guys, it has been a rough winter here in Jersey, so updates have been few and far between. The weather will break soon, and I will be finishing the car within a few months.

[bllabong89]

Did you have to use spacers on your toe rods? I also have Yamato multi links and there is alot of space between the subframe and heim joint so it can move forward and backwards a bit...like 3/4"-1".

Any help would be appreciated.

[doyle4281]

I beleive what you are refering to is this, correct?
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/2962/080to.jpg

I had the very same problem with mine. They included the spacers with the arms, however there was still a gap. I contacted Yamato Garage and they recomended that I try to torque them to spec, and see if the gap closes. The subframe is surprisingly flexible, and the gap closed up. Hope that helps

[2402NV]

This thread is great. Keep it up!

[Kemps]

very nicely done sir!

[bllabong89]

Ok, that is what I was talking about. I didn't get any type of spacers though. Where did you find the torque specs?

Thanks for your help,
Andrew

[doyle4281]

Ok, that is what I was talking about. I didn't get any type of spacers though. Where did you find the torque specs?

Thanks for your help,
Andrew

I am sure if you were to contact Yamato Garage, they would send you the spacers. However, any washer of sufficient strength should work fine. I used the torque specs from the FSM.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7611/helpyk.jpg

[bllabong89]

Great, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.

Andrew

[bllabong89]

Wanted to say thanks again and figured I would throw this up for ya...

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/100_9979.jpg

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/anhill88/100_9978.jpg

[doyle4281]

Looks great dude, I see you are using the Ballerbolts set as well. I had a problem where the outer toe rod bolt was too long and hitting the coilover. Did you get them recently, I think Ryan started using the nickel plating instead of the Zinc plating I have. Glad I could help

[bllabong89]

Thanks. Yea, I had ordered them about 3 months ago if that and then it took a month to get in due to some washers being out of stock or something.

[doyle4281]

One of the first nice days we have had in Jersey. Cleaned out the garage, back to work. Updates soon....

[Wbarnes13]

I just did a full ES bushing install on my car. Didn't go as far as painting everything tho, after seeing this I wish I did...

[Otto347]

Awesome attention to detail, cant wait to start on mine!

I can also vouch for the B17, we had some wheels to strip and after media and all the off the self strippers I bought a 5 gallon tub of the Benco. Like you said, 3 minutes and the wheels were bare aluminum.

[kenshinS14sks]

this write up is so awesome. question though doyle4281, in the energy suspension pdf it says to remove two inner rings for the subframes...but didn't seem like you did when you were doing yours. did you just not include it or is this part of the instructions that are "somewhat clear"?

[RTB.1054]

I noticed that my rear subframe energy bushings are kind of loose in the hole but the front bushings are nice and tight is that normal or did I stretched them out with my prybar to much removing old colars?? Do you think it will still work once subframe is installed? Please say yes LOL

[doyle4281]

this write up is so awesome. question though doyle4281, in the energy suspension pdf it says to remove two inner rings for the subframes...but didn't seem like you did when you were doing yours. did you just not include it or is this part of the instructions that are "somewhat clear"?

Thanks dude. It has been some time since I did this, but I remember at the time, I was a little unclear as to how much that needed to be removed as well. I tried to post what I did as clearly as possible, but sometimes pictures do not show enough detail. The rings that the instructions were refering to are what I pictured below. Essentially, you are removing everything from the hole without cutting into the actual subframe. The only thing I can recommend is to make your cuts carefully and keep checking the depth, especially when cutting relieves for the outer sleeve. Every so often, with a chisel and hammer, hit the sleeve to see if it moves a little, this will give you a good indication if your relief cuts are deep enough. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.


http://a.imageshack.us/img20/583/084kd.jpg

[CaptainVlad]

Not to sound like a dick or anything, but why did you get those links? I figured with so much work into this and what not, you would have gone with something like SPL.

[koukidriver]

I would go with this if you want the best.^^^
Specialty Products Company - SPC Alignment (http://www.spcperformance.com/)

[doyle4281]

Thanks for the input guys. Both of those companies are top notch, however they have a price tag to match. Yamato Garage makes a great product at a very reasonable price. They use the same QA1 heim joints as many of the best manufactures do, and use the same alloys to construct the arms. For an all out racing application, where extreme forces and speeds are present, I may consider a different setup. However, for a street and occasional track session, as the majority of us will be doing, Yamato Garage offers an unbeatable package.

[kenshinS14sks]

i try going to the yamato garage website...it's down~ =(

[RTB.1054]

I noticed that my rear subframe energy bushings are kind of loose in the hole but the front bushings are nice and tight is that normal or did I stretched them out with my prybar to much removing old colars?? Do you think it will still work once subframe is installed? Please say yes LOL

Input please.

[Fractur3]

awesome work man, I'm just starting on mine this month. I plan on bead blasting / coating everything just like you.

[blueshark123]

Thanks for the input guys. Both of those companies are top notch, however they have a price tag to match. Yamato Garage makes a great product at a very reasonable price. They use the same QA1 heim joints as many of the best manufactures do, and use the same alloys to construct the arms. For an all out racing application, where extreme forces and speeds are present, I may consider a different setup. However, for a street and occasional track session, as the majority of us will be doing, Yamato Garage offers an unbeatable package.

have you even looked in the review thread of yamato on here.:ugh:

[rb27dets14]

Just saw the car today let me tell you people this car is 10 out of 10. Can't wait to see the finished project!

[warauto]

great thread, excellent work so far.

[doyle4281]

It has been awhile since I have posted updates, but here goes....

I believe the last updates were the beginning of the front suspension. Sorry if these updates aren't particularly detailed, as much of the work was done quite some time ago.

Being pleased with the brakes on my Evolution, I opted to use the Brembo setup in the front, and the STI Brembo in the rear. As most know, used Evo Brembos aren't usually to cosmetically pleasing when purchase used, and mine were no different. After splitting, acid dipping, bead blasting, and taping, I powder coated them in Mirror Silver.
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5642/007cip.jpg

http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/9131/011kv.jpg

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5601/013nye.jpg

Note: I used different techniques when doing each front caliper. For one I separated the caliper into two pieces, and powder coated separately. For the other, I removed the pistons, seals, esc and powder coated all as one piece. The results from leaving it in one piece are BETTER! Since there are no seals between the halves, like Z32 calipers, seal damage is NOT an issue. Leaving them together allows you to coat the bolts as well, and helps hide the seam between the two halves. I recommend leaving them together.

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3194/049smi.jpg

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7568/057yh.jpg

All together, and also coated the brackets which secure the rear subframe.
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/1290/058qs.jpg

High Temp Brembo decals were then applied. I tried to match to match the Ruby Pearl paint as best I could.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/459/020qaf.jpg

After the application of the decals, the calipers where then coated with clear powder coat. Be very careful when selecting your decals, as I have had some melt during the clear coating process.
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/7083/024sr.jpg

This is what they look like powder coated clear. Ready to install....
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6051/009pi.jpg

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8057/011exf.jpg

Touge Factory Evo Brembo brackets made the install very easy. They are extremely high quality, and are PROPERLY designed. After having some bad luck with a set of brackets purchased on this forum, these were a blessing.
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/6441/001tbs.jpg

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/3860/004ota.jpg

Rotora front and rear rotors....
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4924/032yng.jpg

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4292/037kj.jpg

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/854/038mr.jpg

Racing Brake ET500 pads....
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6347/013hzp.jpg

Calipers loaded and installed....
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2020/016qb.jpg

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/1848/015awq.jpg

Megan Racing steering boot and Tein inner and outer tie rod assembly installed...
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4181/037ka.jpg

Yamato Garage tension rod, painted tension rod bracket, BallerBolts (rod to control arm), and new OEM tension rod bolts...
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/4166/041zk.jpg

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/779/022oum.jpg

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9140/027qc.jpg

http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/1574/034yx.jpg

Even though I have not documented it, the front spindles were powder coated, Apexi coilovers were installed, along with new OEM fasteners...
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/1589/039fd.jpg

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/3190/043sr.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1645/008mtx.jpg

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4232/010fk.jpg

[doyle4281]

Being that I have not adjusted everything yet, I need some advice concerning the tension rods. This may be normal, but I have noticed that the tension rods needed to be extended quite a bit. The adjustments are not at the end of their travel, but it seems excessive to me. Judging by the picture, does the adjustment seem excessive?

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/4166/041zk.jpg

[blueshark123]

awesome work

[warauto]

brakes and front look extremely good man, keep it up.

[Coolwhip]

looking great man!

[A54]

Nice suspension thread!!!

[doyle4281]

The STI rear calipers where a similar procedure as the front, however it is recommended to split these, as there is a seal between the halves. The powder coating temperature is in excess of 450 degress F, so the seal could be harmed. It has been disputed that these seals can handle the heat, however they are nearly impossible to find, so I wouldn't take the chance.

Those who have disassembled these calipers know, that the torx fasteners that hold those 4 plates on, can be a pain to get out. In my case a few got damaged, they were replaced on every caliper. If anyone is interested, they are M6x1 12mm button head fasteners.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3329/001syk.jpg

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/8754/002ozs.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5738/004hjb.jpg

Ready to install....bolt on with no modification....
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6849/014dio.jpg

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/9061/011gdk.jpg

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7356/015rk.jpg

Installed...
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9705/017dhl.jpg

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8546/020kp.jpg

[skyline331]

Awesome work man. Gives me ideas!

[bllabong89]

looks sick. I am also running the evo/sti brembo set up and will be putting them on my new s14. I know what you mean about the calipers looking kinda shitty after they have been used for some time...It's about powdercoating time for mine too. I may have overlooked it on here but what kind of BMC are you running?

[doyle4281]

looks sick. I am also running the evo/sti brembo set up and will be putting them on my new s14. I know what you mean about the calipers looking kinda shitty after they have been used for some time...It's about powdercoating time for mine too. I may have overlooked it on here but what kind of BMC are you running?


Thanks man, this project is nearing it's end, and should come out nice. I am using a 1" master cylinder. Originally, I had a Z32 setup, and thought the 1" master would provide a better pedal for a daily driven car. Since putting the Brembo setup on, I have thought the 17/16" bore would be more suitable. However, I feel the 1" will fine on a 240sx with a Brembo setup. Since we essentially have Evo 8 brake systems, you can base your sizing off that, and lucky for us the GSR and MR had 17/16" and the RS had 1". Both attainable bore sizes for the S14. The RS was a lighter car, so the 1" might be just fine on a 240sx, we'll see.....

[Scorpion34]

Project looks great. I'm just curious do all your rotors sweep in the same direction cuz I thought with sweeping rotors they give you ones direction based for passenger & and driver side.

[doyle4281]

Good eye, they sent me two of the same rotor for the rear. I am awaiting a response from Rotora.



Project looks great. I'm just curious do all your rotors sweep in the same direction cuz I thought with sweeping rotors they give you ones direction based for passenger & and driver side.

[Scorpion34]

Good eye, they sent me two of the same rotor for the rear. I am awaiting a response from Rotora.

Yeah I used 2 own a Probe & GT Wheels are directional based so I learned to pay attention to directional based parts lol What about the fronts? Are those jus switched around?

[doyle4281]

Yeah I used 2 own a Probe & GT Wheels are directional based so I learned to pay attention to directional based parts lol What about the fronts? Are those jus switched around?

The Fronts are correct, the slotts are supposed to face forward. There is a lot of debate about this topic, as some say it really doesn't matter what direction they face. They may look batter facing the other way, however they were designed to face forward. I opted to follow Rotoras installation procedure, however in a street application, I would imagine you would never know the difference.

[tricky_ab]

I know it's been mentioned before but this is a great thread! Thank you for sharing your build with us...

[JDM SPUG]

great thread. I can't wait to get my car back out of the shop so I can finally start doing some suspension work.

[Scorpion34]

The Fronts are correct, the slotts are supposed to face forward. There is a lot of debate about this topic, as some say it really doesn't matter what direction they face. They may look batter facing the other way, however they were designed to face forward. I opted to follow Rotoras installation procedure, however in a street application, I would imagine you would never know the difference.

Hmmm maybe. After looking at this build I may consider going this deep once I swap my SR in. Depends on what the ride quality will be like. Once everything is in please let us know what your ride quality is like.

[Fred Allen Burge]

Truly great work, making me re-thing some things on my project :)

Question though, any reason you didn't just strip and re-plate your factory suspension hardware?

[doyle4281]

Truly great work, making me re-thing some things on my project :)

Question though, any reason you didn't just strip and re-plate your factory suspension hardware?


Thanks for all the great comments guys, as it seems that this thread has served it's purpose already, even if only for encouragement.

As for the fasteners, I had considererd bead blasting all the OEM fasteners, and having them electro-plated. Zinc, cadmium, nickel all provide excellent corrosion resistance, and have a great finish. However, while searching for eccentric bolt lockouts, and finding BallerBolts, I could not resist their fastener setup.

[Fred Allen Burge]

Gotcha. I think I might look into plating mine at home if that's possible, I think it is. Also, I need to get a powder coating setup, mind sharing your set up and process?

[doyle4281]

As you pointed out before, the rear Rotora rotors were shipped to me incorrectly. Instead of shipping me left and right rotors, they sent two of the same, even though the numbers on the boxes were correct. The parts were ordered correctly through MAPerformance, however Rotora screwed up the packaging. Since I have last updated, I have been back and forth with Rotora trying to get this sorted out, and it seems they have no intentions of correcting their mistake. Since the rotors were purchased some time ago, they say they have no record of my purchase, even though they have confirmed the part numbers ordered with MAPerformance over the phone. Now I am forced to purchase another rotor, from the same company that refused to correct an obvious packaging error. I would not have added this information to a thread, however it is insulting to me.

Thanks again to everyone following along, and I will be posting more updates soon.



Project looks great. I'm just curious do all your rotors sweep in the same direction cuz I thought with sweeping rotors they give you ones direction based for passenger & and driver side.

[Scorpion34]

That sucks man. Sorry it turned out that way. I'm sure someone will buy that rotor from ya!

[doyle4281]

Thanks dude, the whole situation really annoyed me. It is not so much about the money, as one rotor is not extraordinarily expensive, but the fact that they offered no help. I have dealt with a lot of companies while purchasing parts for different projects, and from what I have seen, the larger the company, the worse the customer service. Not that Full-Race or RIPS Racing are small companies, but their level of customer service is unmatched. Your speaking with people that want, respect, and appreciate your business, whether you bought a bumper sticker or a race prepped engine.

Unfortunately Scorpion34, I do not think some one is going to want to buy one rotor, unless they want a really cool ashtray:)


That sucks man. Sorry it turned out that way. I'm sure someone will buy that rotor from ya!

[Scorpion34]

You never know what people on Craigslist will do is what I say lol Yeah I feel you on Customer Service. I've left quite a few companies due to their lack of service. Doesn't matter how good of a product you make, if you have poor service, your company is crap IMO.

[kornmanz]

Damn dude, looks very very nice great job.

[killer skittle]

soooo...how does it ride???

[dontxploitme]

soooo...how does it ride???

like a slice of butter. melting over a big'o pile of flapjacks... yeah.

[doyle4281]

like a slice of butter. melting over a big'o pile of flapjacks... yeah.

I'd like to hope so, but I am expecting a ride quality similar to a vacuum cleaner or a hand truck. Here in New Jersey, the only way to get a smooth ride, is to drive a hover-craft. To be honest, I have not had much time to work on the car lately, as I have been in school, and at the moment I am recovering from knee surgery. I will be posting some updates in the next few weeks, and the car will be on the ground. Thanks for sticking with the build

[herbieS13]

wow very impressive


subscribed

[420sx]

What kind of ebrake setup are you planning on running

[doyle4281]

What kind of ebrake setup are you planning on running


I am using a Z32 brake setup, it is covered in more detail earlier in the thread. However, there are a few things I left out, one of which is the handbrake cables. This is a commonly asked question, so I looked through the "archives", and found a few pictures from the installation.

The cables used were R33 Skyline cables, part numbers below. From what I understand there are other options, but I wanted the most factory solution possible.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8730/023bd.jpg

I can only speak from my experience, but there were a few minor modifications needed to make the cables work. Aside from these small modifications, the cables install, just as factory cables do.

Unmodified cable....
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9158/2011042717543955.jpg

After test fitting the cables, I found that the larger mounting bracket had no location to be mounted, so they were very simply removed.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3830/20110427180043663.jpg

After the larger brackets were removed, the smaller bracket was removed and moved down the cable so it can reach the mounting location on the subframe. This is simply done with a pair of pliers to bend the metal. I then cut the angled portion off so it could fit flat against the subframe. Sounds like a lot, but it is really simple.
http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/9320/20110427180309999.jpg

In short, all you are doing is removing the big bracket and moving the small bracket to the proper location on the subframe.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3830/20110427180043663.jpg

[Scorpion34]

Thanks alot for this Doyle. This will really help when I do my Z32 spec rear brake swap. My R33 cables jus came in this week too.

[killer skittle]

Damn thanks for the clarification with the cables. Now I can breath easy when I order stuff for my rear brake setup

[doyle4281]

That's why I do it, glad I could help.

[Scorpion34]

Any updates??

[beefyx323x]

nice thread!!!

[doyle4281]

Thanks for bearing with me, the thread was "missing" for a while. I will try to post updates tomorrow.

[rastaman]

Nice work subscribe

[idahotuner]

nice work on the suspension man. i remember when i changed out all of my bushings talk about a long PITA procedure lol

[blueshark123]

updates please i just did my r33 cables also and i think they are a bit to close to my driveshaft since i have a beefy shaft lol

[doyle4281]

updates please i just did my r33 cables also and i think they are a bit to close to my driveshaft since i have a beefy shaft lol

Hey man, sorry for the wait. You should have plenty of clearance with the driveshaft, as the cables install pretty much the same as stock. There are two clips above the U-joint which the cables are secured to, make sure they connected. After they get secured there they separate and go to each side. There are threads in the subframe where the cable tabs get bolted to, then the cable runs through the hole in the subframe before getting bolted to the backing plate. I too have a larger driveshaft (driveshaftshop), so clearance should be the same. Hope that helps

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/38949967.jpg

[blueshark123]

I didnt run my through the hole in the subframe they reached just fine everything works properly, but wtf i dont have that tab in the picture thats why it seems to close. Is that tab welded or bolted on to the chassis? I guess i need to order one or some shit

[doyle4281]

I didnt run my through the hole in the subframe they reached just fine everything works properly, but wtf i dont have that tab in the picture thats why it seems to close. Is that tab welded or bolted on to the chassis? I guess i need to order one or some shit

That is very strange that you don't have those clips. I am unsure of how they are fastened to the underbody, but I could imagine them being a pain in the ass to get. A way around it could be to use an Adel clamps and self tapping screws. There is really no strain on the cables there, so it should be plenty strong.

http://www.maneywire.com/images/STAINLESS%20STEEL%20CUSHION%20CLAMP.jpg

[blueshark123]

ok thanks yea i was planing on doing something like that but i dont want to drill any holes in my under body since i just por 15 the car and schultz/rubber coated it

[doyle4281]

I do not have a whole lot to update, so I figured I would answer some of the questions about the brake setup and the components I used.

The front setup consists of Evolution 8 calipers, Evolution 8 rotors, Touge Factory conversion brackets, Racing Brake pads, OEM hardware, and Agency Power 240sx to Evolution 8 conversion brake hoses.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8057/011exf.jpg

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/3860/004ota.jpg

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4292/037kj.jpg

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2020/016qb.jpg

Thanks to Agency Power, these 240sx to Evolution 8 conversion hoses were developed. These maintain the factory Evolution 8 configuration by retaining the banjo fitting on the caliper. After being disappointed with the other brake hose options for this conversion, these corrected all the issues. They are not available for sale yet, but I can refer you to someone who can help you, if anyone is interested.

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/7c74232f.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/1c25b11b.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/b982d216.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/fd52ce9d.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/96a103e8.jpg

The rear brakes consist of a Z32 handbrake setup, R33 brake cables, Z32 rotors, Subaru STI calipers, Racing Brake pads, Girodisc shims, OEM hardware, and Agency Power 240sx brake hoses

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9316/012lxj.jpg

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9705/017dhl.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/a366a88e.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/a8bfc752.jpg

Being that the car is so low, it made being able to torque the necessary components with the weight of vehicle on the wheels very difficult. I had considered purchasing a nice set of ramps, but for the sake of time, I made a set out of wood. The whole setup only costs $40 and leaves a lot of room under the car.

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/f507757f.jpg

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/b0b5d87f.jpg

[codyace]

I don't mean to bust balls, but why stick with the banjo fitting when a -3 line would have sufficed/been more common?

[Scorpion34]

Those wheels are dope. Are they 17s?

[doyle4281]

I don't mean to bust balls, but why stick with the banjo fitting when a -3 line would have sufficed/been more common?

I wanted the lines to maintain the configuration they were designed to be in from the factory. The gated banjo fitting is very secure and less subject to rotation. Like you said, most people commonly use an adapter, just like Z32 conversion lines, which is completely fine. Being that the lines cost the same, would you not choose the option that retained the factory design?

[doyle4281]

Those wheels are dope. Are they 17s?

Thanks dude, they are 18" Work Emotion XD9's. When looking for wheels, I really liked the design of the XD9, however I really needed a gunmetal wheel to accomplish the look I was going for. I contacted Work and had them do a custom set in the their Matte Gunmetal (MGM) as opposed to the Matte Grey Silver (MGS). It took forever, but it was worth the wait. I have yet to see another set in this color, so they may be one of a kind.

[codyace]

I wanted the lines to maintain the configuration they were designed to be in from the factory. The gated banjo fitting is very secure and less subject to rotation. Like you said, most people commonly use an adapter, just like Z32 conversion lines, which is completely fine. Being that the lines cost the same, would you not choose the option that retained the factory design?

I don't disagree with your keep it factory idea, I just think that if you're willing to swap brake lines that installing a -3 adapter to a regular hose isn't a hiccup, nor will it be any better/worse than your setup. I guess I also do not understand how these lines are 'better' than the others out there...

Aside from the above point, having had lines burst, I will say that it's also MUCH easier to find a line shop in a pinch to recreate a-3 line, than one that can create a banjo based setup. I know it may be 'pulling' straws here, but it's still something to consider.

I'm not looking to argue, just don't understand. -3 is common amongst aftermarket lines across all brands...banjo ends are not.

[BNASTYs13]

nice thread

[doyle4281]

I don't disagree with your keep it factory idea, I just think that if you're willing to swap brake lines that installing a -3 adapter to a regular hose isn't a hiccup, nor will it be any better/worse than your setup. I guess I also do not understand how these lines are 'better' than the others out there...

Aside from the above point, having had lines burst, I will say that it's also MUCH easier to find a line shop in a pinch to recreate a-3 line, than one that can create a banjo based setup. I know it may be 'pulling' straws here, but it's still something to consider.

I'm not looking to argue, just don't understand. -3 is common amongst aftermarket lines across all brands...banjo ends are not.


I appreciate your interest, and I am open to your criticism, but I am unsure what your concerns are. Evolution 8 Brembos use banjo fittings, why would I intentionally stray from that design if the correct brake hoses are available? Why would I use a "universal solution, when a specific solution is available? I treated the brake system exactly as it is on my Evo 8, as they are the same.

I know where you are trying to go with this, but this is not a purpose built racecar. If it were, and every line needed to be rerouted, cut to specific lengths, and various fittings needed to be used, yes, I would have purchased a roll of -3 hose and swaged/crimped all the ends to custom dimensions. Since it is not, I took a little extra effort and sourced a set that is as close to factory as possible. Again, thanks for the interest and I appreciate the comments

[blueshark123]

We should have a brake comparison test when ur car is done to compare a complete z32 setup vs a evo/sti setup to see how much better your setup is lol

[SaVAgES14]

Damn Im about to pull my subframe out this weekend now, you have inspired me! lol but great work I wish you were in San diego. Did you do the bead blasting yourself or took it to a shop?

[blueshark123]

I think he told me that he did it himself.

[doyle4281]

Thanks for the interest, and sorry for the lack of updates, and the slow progress. Aside from the rear sway bar, the suspension and brakes are complete, and the car is on the ground. Being that the weather is starting to get cold, not much more will get done, but the engine and body will be posted next. Thanks for sticking with me on the build and I hope this thread has helped some people out.

As far as the bead blasting, yes, it was done by me. For anyone that does a lot of this type of work, I highly recommend a nice media blasting setup. It really allows you to do proper restorations on components, and in some cases will allow you to save parts, that would otherwise need to be purchased.



I think he told me that he did it himself.

[JaredP]

what exactly are the giro discs on the rear sti brembo setup? only thing im not really following.

aside from that, codyace this is more directed at you...you say people use an adapter for z32 brakes? i know theyre a banjo type, but i've never seen this adapter...care to elaborate?

[Scorpion34]

It def inspired me & cleared up some things for me as well. Too bad I didn't get a chance to do the Z32 swap myself. I didn't have time & took it to a shop.

[az_240]

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/livinglegendlll/IMG_0036.jpg
I think he is referring to this one

[sr20surfin]

this shit is sick

[godrifttoday]

all u need now is some driftwork knuckles and bam!!

[Scorpion34]

all u need now is some driftwork knuckles and bam!!

What is your avatar??

[doyle4281]

Hey guys, if anyone is interested or knows someone who might be, I am selling a VQ35DE from my 350Z. It is an absolutely complete setup, and is great condition. The engine was removed just two weeks ago, as the car is getting an engine conversion. Keep an eye out for that build....

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/426055-vq35de-engine-transmission-complete.html

[SaVAgES14]

Any updates? How does it ride?

[doyle4281]

Sorry it has been so long since I have updated this thread, but this project has been set aside temporarily so I can concentrate on a different build. The S14 is basically complete aside from paint and a few details. Check out my other build in the meantime, you may enjoy it more.....

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/429496-rb26debt-350z-build.html

[Scorpion34]

Shame. Can we at least get pics of it on the ground?

[kennedy8383]

Very cool and does anyone here thought about using home depot bolt for suspension because bolt are not cheap at the dealer ..= (

[miky360]

what kind of paint and primer did you use to paint your subframe?

[doyle4281]

what kind of paint and primer did you use to paint your subframe?

I used an epoxy primer and a Urethane paint. Be sure to sand it down before painting and clean it thoroughly.

[miky360]

how did you press in the new ball joints in you front LCAs? you've inspired me to do this to mine lol but the front subframe will be dropped when i swap the motor.

[doyle4281]

how did you press in the new ball joints in you front LCAs? you've inspired me to do this to mine lol but the front subframe will be dropped when i swap the motor.

Glad I could help, you will have a blast with it. The ball joint were installed with a hydraulic press and a ball joint removal/installation kit. The job is much easier with the proper tooling, however can be done without it.

[doyle4281]

Started wrapping up everything on the car, as there are a few details that need to be sorted out, one of which being the rear brake hoses. Previously, I had installed factory rear hoses, which appear to fit properly, however may cause issues during suspension travel. Instead of going with another set of custom lines from Agency Power, I simply installed a set of Z32 conversion lines. It is not the OEM fit that I was trying to accomplish, but it will work fine. As you can see from the out of focus photo, that with enough suspension travel the hose will be pulled taut and could cause damage. This photo is with the suspension at rest with the suspension still going to be lowered 1.5".

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/4ea2ccbd.jpg

[mantas]

Started wrapping up everything on the car, as there are a few details that need to be sorted out, one of which being the rear brake hoses. Previously, I had installed factory rear hoses, which appear to fit properly, however may cause issues during suspension travel. Instead of going with another set of custom lines from Agency Power, I simply installed a set of Z32 conversion lines. It is not the OEM fit that I was trying to accomplish, but it will work fine. As you can see from the out of focus photo, that with enough suspension travel the hose will be pulled taut and could cause damage. This photo is with the suspension at rest with the suspension still going to be lowered 1.5".

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/4ea2ccbd.jpg

That looks a bit short compared to my z32 conversion lines...but im not an expert in suspensions or cars in general haha.

Glad you did this build thread, this is probably my favority build of all time! I learned a thing or two and what a good choice in color for everything - looks like candy!!! haha.

[alexander240]

WOW great job ! wondering is there other ways on how to remove bushings?

[doyle4281]

That looks a bit short compared to my z32 conversion lines...but im not an expert in suspensions or cars in general haha.

Glad you did this build thread, this is probably my favority build of all time! I learned a thing or two and what a good choice in color for everything - looks like candy!!! haha.

Thanks man, I wish I had more time to devote to it, but I am concentrating on the RB26 350Z at this time. The hoses in the picture are the S14 hoses that were too short, the Z32 conversion hoses are now installed.

[doyle4281]

WOW great job ! wondering is there other ways on how to remove bushings?

The only other way I know of doing the bushings is to use a press, which can get tricky. Being that the arms are sheet metal they bend very easily which a press makes light work off. Burning, cutting, and pounding seem to be the preferred method, however some have other clever methods. For the subframe, I have even seen a very well known shop cut the subframe completely at each bushing letting the bushing fall out, then welding it back. Seems very intrusive, but fast and effective.

[mantas]

Thanks man, I wish I had more time to devote to it, but I am concentrating on the RB26 350Z at this time. The hoses in the picture are the S14 hoses that were too short, the Z32 conversion hoses are now installed.

:duh: i just realized it was you that started the 350/26 build. Must go look at whats happened to it, there was some serious fabrication work in that build and once again another good thread. Good work man, good work.

[Scorpion34]

More pics!!!

[EJ8 944]

This thread needs more updates.

[Paint209]

^what the duece?? ads on a build thread lol

[SaVAgES14]

where did you get that multi point hub nut? oh nm its just the little cap that goes on top of the nut?

[Scorpion34]

Are we ever gonna see the finished product on this??

[doyle4281]

Are we ever gonna see the finished product on this??


Sorry this thread fell off, as I became preoccupied with another project. The suspension on this car is essentially finished, so there is not much else to post. Every single component, down to the last nut and bolt has been addressed and it is truly a pleasure to see a 240sx in this condition. The car is awaiting paint and body, which is not my area of expertise, so it is being held off. This build will come to an end in the near future, and I will be sure to post updates. Thanks

[Scorpion34]

That's good. But can we at least see pics of it on the ground?

[Sauce98]

this thread is amazing. I wanted to do more to my subframe when I took it out but just didn't have the time. Keep it up, this is looking great

[beems240sx]

i want to eat off your subframe! very nice top notch work. i just fixed my sand blaster and powdercoating setup too so i cant wait to get to work on mine. only thing different is i will be boxing in the corners of the subframe and boxing/gussets on the bottom of the control arms.

[S14Serge]

Sick work bro keep it up this thread and work is amazing!

[doyle4281]

Thanks all, work on this car slowed for awhile, but I have recently been putting some time into it, as I am preparing to move to a new house. The chassis is complete and I am now sorting out the powertrain odds and ends. I have not posted much information on the engine, but may put some pictures up along the way. The engine is an RB25DET, which was in extraordinary condition when I received it, and ran beautifully in the OEM configuration. The engine has since been upgraded with a number of components and aftermarket engine management.

[SilviaxDr3aMz]

Man am i envious.
baller thread right here.

[mystacarlo]

I didnt see you mention or i just maybe skimmed over it, but what did you do about differential bushings, i have a jdm s14 and mine are worn, so i bought Stance solid aluminum bushings, will i have any trouble swapping these in, like do i have to burn anything out like i did for the subframe bushings?

[jt1583]

Lookin great man, very nice attention to detail. Is anyone boxing the rear (maybe front for that matter too) LCAs? Rubber Megan bushings Moog ball joints for the rear are $200 together, plus boxing for strength vs. $500+ for a set of quality RLCAs looks enticing

[Boss s14]

Sick work bro keep it up this thread and work is amazing!



lol i love your sig pic i see it everywhere...

anyways great build im looking into restoring my whole suspension since i have 150k on my completely stock s14 people like make me want to get my lazy ass up and do it.... thanks man and good luck cant wait for more!

[bigboost3]

nice build

[titangts]

wow this was an awesome build thread. Loved every bit of it, great job! is there really anything else you can do suspension wise? I see you are running ST sway bars, adjustable ends? Thinking of a front tension brace? I can't think of anything more besides chassis stiffeners (braces).

[doyle4281]

You are right, chassis stiffeners are about the only thing that has not been done, however I will likely make some nice Chromoly pieces, tension braces, fender braces, possibly something to strengthen the unibody. This car has been on the back burner for a long time, but is the first project on my list to complete. I am quite guilty of "biting off more than I can chew", and the cars always seem to get put off. My RB26 350Z project was tough to put off as it was turning out so good, but things get in the way. The S14 will likely be completed and sold soon after, as it is essentially a new car. Every nut and bolt has been replaced, every surface has been treated, powder coated, or painted. Wheels, brakes, suspension, wiring, aero kit, all new. At the time I was building it, I must have been thinking it would be stored at the bottom of a lake, because everything is corrosion resistant. Thanks again for keeping this thread alive, and I hope to show it completed in the "nearish" future.

[SlowLadyZ]

thank you for the fantastic thread

[rawgarage]

so much win...

[lake_release]

wow. beautiful work!

[Po_31]

hello i saw your thread on your suspension really great btw,
im in the process of my as well, i picked up a j30 diff

i want to know which diff bushings to put into your subframe?

thank you

[doyle4281]

It looks like imageshake recovered my account, it looks like all the pictures are back on this thread

[doyle4281]

imageshack account recovered.

[doyle4281]

Thank you administrator for fixing thread

[doyle4281]

Administrators, the pictures are not showing on this thread.

[Future240]

Pics showing up for me???

Did you try a different device?

[doyle4281]

Pics showing up for me???

Did you try a different device?

Yes, pictures don’t show from the PC either

[doyle4281]

Parting out this car. Please contact me if interested in anything in this thread

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/45F60727-66F3-4AF6-AD5C-801F9E354CAD_zps8wy1kzl0.jpeg


https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/CAC412E7-C2BF-433B-BC8B-836181190DC6_zpspdkbwzak.jpeg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/CAC412E7-C2BF-433B-BC8B-836181190DC6_zpspdkbwzak.jpeg.html)

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/B3634D40-7AB3-4C2C-932A-4FD6BBDCDD86_zpskuh9efdp.jpeg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/B3634D40-7AB3-4C2C-932A-4FD6BBDCDD86_zpskuh9efdp.jpeg.html)

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/440A2D78-EB26-41C1-BEE0-36E2115FE2CD_zpszyhwb5ka.jpeg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/440A2D78-EB26-41C1-BEE0-36E2115FE2CD_zpszyhwb5ka.jpeg.html)

[doyle4281]

Please contact me if interested in anything. I will be starting a part out thread shortly, which will include, all the kouki parts, all the suspension, the body parts, the RB25 stuff, then the full interior, glass, esc. The started moved on its own power and pulled back in the garage, never driven on the street.

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/CAE0B5B3-4634-4C8B-96D0-D0EAF85BBEDE_zpslqqdebpg.jpeg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/CAE0B5B3-4634-4C8B-96D0-D0EAF85BBEDE_zpslqqdebpg.jpeg.html)

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/007hir_zpsg0xjtzx8.jpg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/007hir_zpsg0xjtzx8.jpg.html)

https://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee423/Doyle4281/img0956e_zpsxh8dgiyr.jpg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/Doyle4281/media/img0956e_zpsxh8dgiyr.jpg.html)

[doyle4281]

Part out thread started.

https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=671396