View Full Version : Xiaphin's Bye Bye NICO Hello Zilvia - S13 SR Forced Performance Big 28 DD Build
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:03 PM
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6596.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6596.jpg.html)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/aac6ed7a-7eb4-41a8-a4e7-64e18f4d3c27_zpsb5be9c46.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/aac6ed7a-7eb4-41a8-a4e7-64e18f4d3c27_zpsb5be9c46.jpg.html)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/IMG_6538.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/IMG_6538.jpg.html)
Dyno Vids
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/th_1306525010.jpg (http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1306525010.mp4)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/th_IMG_1577_NEW.jpg (http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/IMG_1577_NEW.mp4)
Current Build Specs
Engine…
SR20DET Redtop
Stock Bottom End
OEM Gasket Set
Greddy Oil Pan
Grex 1.2mm Headgasket 88mm Bore
ARP HeadStuds
Greddy Valve springs
BC Titanium Retainers
HKS Cams 264 intake 264 exhaust
Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers (Oil Baffle Removed)
Circuit Sports Fuel Rail
Nismo/Tomei 555cc Injectors
Sard FPR AN-Type and Adapter Fitting
Walbro Fuel Pump – 95 lb/min
Deastch Works Fuel Pump HardWire Kit
Z32 Fuel Filter
New OEM Waterpump
New OEM Coolant Temp Sensor
New OEM Oil Temp Sending Unit
New OEM PCV Valve
New Heater and Intake Manifold Hoses – Thanks OM3GA
All Mounts and brackets painted High Temp Warm Brown
Valve Cover Powdercoated Sepia Brown
Crank Pulley Powdercoated UPS Grey
Circuit Sports Underdrive Pulleys – Silver
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Nismo Oil Filler Cap
Turbo & Accessories…
FP (Forced Performance) Big 28 Turbo – Flows 550 cfm
Stock Cast Manifold
HKS SSQV BOV with Recirculation Fitting
240sx Motoring Hotpipe with HKS SSQV Flange - Powdercoated UPS Grey
CAREX Intercooler Piping – Powdercoated UPS Grey
HKS Wastegate Actuator
Circuit Sports Turbo Lines
FMIC 24”x12”x3” SSAutocrap – Painted UPS Brown
Intake & Exhaust…
Z32 MAF
Apexi Super Suction Kit for Z32 MAF
PBM Max 304SS Flex Cobra Downpipe
Megan Racing 80mm Test Pipe
Apexi N1 Dual Cat Back Exhaust
Nismo Exhaust Hangers
Cooling…
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
Koyo Radiator Cap – 1.3 BAR
ISIS E-Fans with Aluminum Shroud – 960 cfm each
Circuit Sports Lower Radiator Bung
Circuit Sports Overflow Tank
Drivetrain…
ACT XACT Prolite Flywheel – 10.5 lbs.
ACT 6-Puck Sprung Hub Clutch – 463 ft/lbs
B&M Short Throw Shifter
Nismo Clutch Fork Pivot
AGP Braided Clutch Line
Megan Racing Motor and Trans Mount
Ichiba 5-Lug Hubs Front
NA Z32 Rear 5-Lug Hubs – Glass Beaded and Painted Chassis Black
SPL Solid Subframe Bushings
NA Z32 VLSD – Diff cover Powdercoated UPS Brown
93' J30 Axles 74,XXX miles - Thanks Zilvia Member krayzbigmac
Solid Diff Bushings – E-bay user rdtuner318is
JGY Aluminum Driveshaft
Suspension and Brakes…
Stance LX+ Coilovers
Centric Z32 Brake Master Cylinder
Z32 Master Cylinder - Thanks 300zxclub member Schepis
Z32 Calipers Front and Rear – 30mm front - Powdercoated High Temp Flat Black
Z31 Dust Shields - Drilled and tapped into spindle - Painted High Temp Warm Brown
Z32 E-Brake Assembly - Thanks Zilvia member UNISA_JECS
AGP Brake Lines
Energy Hyperflex Bushings – Red
PBM Tension Rods
Circuit Sports Rear Toe Rods
Circuit Sports RUCA’s
PBM Rear Traction Rods
Circuit Sports Tie Rods – Inner and Outer
Circuit Sports Aluminum Steering Bushing
New OEM Tie Rod Dust Boots
Moog Ball Joints – Front (K9509) and Rear (K9633)
Suspension Techniques Swaybars – Painted Black
Circuit Sports Strut Bars - Front and Rear
Brembo Factory Replacement Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
Z32 Rims – Painted UPS Brown the REAL UPS Brown- (Powdercoated UPS Brown - cant get right brown in PC)
225/50/16 BFG g-Force Sport 2
PBM 15mm Hubcentric spacers Front and Rear +3mm
PBM Splined Lugnuts
Subframe Powdercoated Chassis Black 50% Gloss
Engine Cross member Powdercoated Chassis Black 50% Gloss
All other suspension components that weren’t replaced were glass beaded
and painted Chassis Black (FLCA’s, RLCA’s, Rear Knuckles, Front Spindles)
Z31 Dust Shields - Front
Electronics…
Odyssey PC925-A battery
Wiring Specialties Harness Conversion – Auto to Manual, Z32 MAF, Z32 Ignitor Chip
Apexi Power FC and New Hand Commander
Power FC Datalogit with Serial to USB Adapter
Greddy Profec B II Boost Controller – Black
Greddy Turbo Timer
Circuit Sport Turbo Timer Harness
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wideband with XD-16 Gauge
60mm Defi Imperial BF Series Boost Gauge – White
60mm Defi Imperial BF Series Oil Pressure Gauge - White
60mm Defi Imperial BF Series Fuel Pressure Gauge - White
60mm Defi Imperial BF Series Water Temp Gauge – White
60mm Defi Link Control Unit II V2
DIF Dual Electric Fan Controller Ver. D
Body…
Wing Removed
POR 15 all rusted areas
Filled all seams effected by rust
POR Fuel Tank Restoration Kit
Trans Tunnel Cleaned and Undercoated
Engine Bay and all Fender Wells Cleaned and Painted with SEM RustShield Black
Floor Pans and Trunk Undercoated
Interior…
Panels Painted UPS Brown accented UPS Grey
Grey Suede Front Door Panel Inserts
Grey Suede Headliner
S14 Seats - Thanks zilvia member lilrussion
S14 Seatbelt conversion
S14 Front Seats Thanks zilvia member lilrussian
Front and rear seats recovered - light grey
NRG Short Hub - Black
NRG Quick Release Ver 2.0 - Black
NRG Hub Lock – Black
Sound and Security...
Alpine IDA-X305S Digital Media Receiver
mjmautoinnovations 6½" Speaker Adapters - Front and Rear
Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 6½" 2-Way Component Speakers- Front and Rear
Infinity Kappa 1200W 4-channel Amplifier
Kicker 4 channel Amp Install Kit
Clifford 50.7x with Glass Break, Tilt, Dual Shock, Proximity Sensors
slider2828
08-31-2010, 07:05 PM
Looks good to me but 555cc is a little small, just got 740 and never look back done...
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:13 PM
After many years of owning a 2 S14's, 1 S13, 260z, and a 510 I've finally started my SR swap. Bought a white pignose fastback with 150,000 on body for $450 that has a blown headgasket or fried piston. Don't know which one and don't care. Basically rust free and has new (Looks good from 10 feet) type paint job.
Link to my Photobucket where all my pics of car and engine rebuild are/will be.My S13 Build Project Pics (http://s191.photobucket.com/home/xiaphin/index)
So heres the lowdown on how I decided to Finally do my SR swap. Had this 95 S14 stolen before I did my engine swap. While I had this S14 I came across a deal where I spent $2000 nd got a SR20, 1991 Fastback, Body-Kit, Racing seats, 2 KA24DE engines and trans and some other crap. Gave the S13 to a buddy of mine whos SR20 powered S14 just got totaled. He gave me some of the parts listed below. Was building my SR while I had the S14 which was back in 2003-04.
Just been fully repainted, painted all interior to match exterior color with black highlights. 18x8 and 18x9 SSR Integral A2's. Stillen bars front and rear, Eibach drop springs, Suspension Techniques Sways, Black leather rear seats, alpine interior speakers-tweeters, nd Kicker Solobaric 15" Sub. Car was stolen with SSR's on the front and some 18x10 rims in the back.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/image015.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/DSC00383.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/DSC00387.jpg
Got raped by insurance company eventhough had all receipts Got a 260z for $600 bucks drove it for a while before it blew up. Went to Japan for 6 weeks and bought another 95 240sx when I got back with my insurance money. Traded the 240sx for a 2-Door 1971 Datsun 510. Some pics of it 20 yrs before I got it, how i remember seeing it as a young kid. Drove it for a while then got it soda blasted and primered, sitting in garage still.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/OUTEN1-vi.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/OUTEN2-vi.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/Soda%20Blasted/DSCN1499.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/Soda%20Blasted/DSCN1536.jpg
Got a call from my friend that I traded my 240sx for the 510 saying he knew about a S13 that could be have pretty cheap. So I ended up buying it for $450. Thats about it in a nutshell.
Now thats out of the way I'll be updating this frequently in the beginning cause I've had my SR since 2003.
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:18 PM
So like I said before Ive had this SR since 2003. First thing I did was buy drifting.com SR20DET rebuild DVD. Broke it all down, layed out everything nice and neat then cleaned it up. No pics of it before I cleaned all the nasty oil and dirt off. It cleaned up really well. \
Planned on installing forged pistons and rods until I saw that the factory hone marks were still visible in all four cylinder walls. Grit in bottom is from scraping off hold head gasket.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0330.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0329.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/Photo_092907_001.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0333.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0334.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0332.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0328.jpg
More things to come tomorrow.
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:21 PM
Adding to the photos I posted yesterday. Ordered a full gasket set, ARP head studs, BC valvesprings and titanium retainers from phase2motorsports. Couple months before that I got a great deal on ebay for $600. GREX headgasket, Greddy valvesprings, rocker arm stoppers, oil pan, and turbo elbow. The valvesprings used were the Greddy with the BC retainers.
Installed new front and rear main seals along with front cover.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0389.jpg
Next cleaned up the head best I could. Lapped all intake and exhaust valves by applying lapping compound then simply rotating valve creating contact between its seat. Inexpensive way to clean up the contact surface of valve and head. Replaced all the valve stem seals.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_3647.jpg
Now it was time to install the valvesprings and retainers. Didnt have a spring compressor and didnt want to rent/buy one so guess what. I made one out of some casters and scrap materials laying around. Used some holes in the head to bolt my apparatus to and also clamped it to the workbench so it wouldnt move. Takes alot of force to compress these bad boys. Worked really well. Little tricky to get the clips that hold valve in place so an extra hand helps.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN0391.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN2242.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN2243.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/DSCN2245.jpg
Cant wait till my Forced Performance Big 28 is here instead of this stocker
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:26 PM
Heres some photos of the Z32 brakes I'll be putting on the car, came off a 1990 parts car I had several years back. Glass beaded them and powdercoated them flat black almost a year ago. Rebuilt all 4 calipers, with Nissan rebuild kits. Could only get rear caliper rebuild kit from RHD Japan.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1404.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1400.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1408.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1412.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1411.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1971%20Datsun%20510%20Rebuild/DSCN1413.jpg
Did finally weld in cover for IC cutout in bumper support, picked up stuff from powder coat, got my solid diff bushings and NA 300zx rear hubs in mail.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2290.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2287.jpg
Color scheme is going to be UPS Brown and UPS grey, subtle nothing over the top. Looks better in sunlight... i guess it was camera shy. Gonna have to get some samples of the brown with gloss killer before getting my wheels and valve cover done. Plan on carrying scheme into interior with dash and main panels being brown accented by the dark grey. Should look good since carpet is already light grey. Maybe grey suede inserts in the door panels?
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2288.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:27 PM
Installed Ichiba front hubs as well, not a direct replacement. Mounted Z32 calipers and confirmed they are the 30mm type, but caliper needs to be stepped out like an 1/8 inch or so. Also test fit my Z32 rims and Theres not enough clearance, its about a 1/4 inch away from the strut. Definitely will hit with tires on so I need to put on some wheel spacers to remedy this issue. 1/2" max and wheel will be flush with fender. Here is my encounter with the Ichiba front hubs, not that impressed.
So I got the Ichiba front hubs for my S13 and tried installing them yesterday. From what I understand they are a direct replacement with no modding necessary. Well... cleaned up the spindle put them on tightened the nut and guess what, hard as hell to spin almost impossible really. Looked at the stackup of the Ichiba compared to OEM and noticed two things. One the difference in snap rings that this 3 YEAR OLD thread on Zilvia.net discusses (#/f/tech-talk/140395-problems-ichiba-front-hubs.html) (cant see the pics to see if mine prchased last week still has the snap ring in question), also the bearing seal wasnt seated enough, not allowing the hub to pull up all the way. Searched net on this problem found that thread (only thread annywhere). So i swapped the rings, tried putting it on and still no good. Found a 1-7/8 socket and pressed the seal below the bearing surface that makes contact with the spindle. And woila they went on like they should have out of the box. Heres pics of my encounter. If those who have installed these on their car could confirm the snap ring that would be great. In my mind I find it hard to believe a company would still be using incorrect parts after 3 YEARS!!!
OEM on left Ichiba on right
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/OEM_VS_ICHIBA_SNAP_RINGS.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/ICHIBA_SNAP_RING.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/OEM_SNAP_RING.jpg
OEM bearing seal clearance
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/OEM_BEARING_SEAL_CLEARANCE.jpg
No clearance with the Ichiba seal - like 1/64 - 1/32 too high
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/ICHIBA_SEAL.jpg
Socket used to press seal in further
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/1_7_8THS.jpg
After pressing
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/ICHIBA_CLEARANCE_AFTER.jpg
Installed finally with my old rotors and 300zx caliper
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2356.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:31 PM
Pulled the subframe out other day along with rear suspension. Used about a half gallon of PB Blaster soaked down then pressure washed trans tunnel, fender wells, undercarriage, and subframe / rear suspension. Removed all of the OEM bushings in the rear and subframe with the help of my small Oxy-Acetylene torch. Still have to clean out all the rubber that wasn't burned out. There are some rust spots on the subframe and in the engine bay and will be fixed with POR 15. Added full build specs to first post.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2383.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2410.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2415.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2419.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2420.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2418.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2424.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2425.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2422.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2438.jpg
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http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2447.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2450.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2446-1.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2451-1.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2416.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2442.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:34 PM
Rained all day but this did give me a chance to confirm my suspicions about Nissan CV axles. Since I cant find J30 axles or slide flanges I thought about combining the S13 and Z32 rear axles, this would give me the correct length and correct flange (5 bolt). BUT You cannot swap the inboard part of a Z32 CV Axle onto the S13. Splines are the same, 27, but OD is different. 1.1560" for the Z32 and 1.0835" for the S13. Z32 uses a cage, race, and ball where the S13 uses a tripod design. Also the overall flange lengths are different. 3.205" for Z32 and 2.961" for S13. Thought I might be able to swap the guts off another Nissan CV but Nissan only uses 2 different ends in their RWD and 4WD vehicles. Guess I'll just have to get lucky with the J30 stuff or break down and get some S14 VLSD w/ABS Slide Flanges from courtesynissan. Pics and chart below.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2463_Description.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2464.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2465.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2472.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2470.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/cv_data.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:35 PM
Removed all front suspension. Cleaned engine cross member and took to powdercoat, along with engine pulleys and hotpipe. Hotpipe has to be redone, weird pools and splotches on it. Glass beaded front spindles and FLCA's painted them Chassis Black. Glass beaded Z31 dust shields and painted them High Temp Warm Brown. Installed bushings and Moog ball joints (K9633) into RLCA's. Removed ball joints and Installed bushings into FLCA's, still waiting on new ball joints to install. Oh yeah stabbed myself with a screwdriver, first time for me. Pic Dump.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2478.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2500.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2481.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2489.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2505.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2508-1.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2502.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2509-1.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:39 PM
Cant wait to finish what I'm doing now... killing rust with POR 15 and painting undercarriage, fender wells, and engine bay. I'm ready for the fun stuff. Received some more suspension parts, picked up subframe and engine crossmember from powdercoat (They look great!!) Was not impressed with the paint quality of the Suspension Techniques sway bars. Called Ant at Enjuku and he said since they switched over to the green its typical. Definitely gonna sandblast and paint those ugly things. I don't own a Honda. Weather permitting, hopefully have rear suspension and maybe front on car by Sunday. Post pics of rust killing and painting when finished...
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2555.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2557.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2559.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2562.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2572.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2576.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2574.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2452.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2460.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2454.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/FP_BIG_28_4.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/FP_BIG_28_2.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/FP_BIG_28_Exhaust_Housing.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/FP_BIG_28_Exducer_Wheel.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/FP_BIG_28_Comp_Wheel.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Stance_LX_Coils_2.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Stance_LX_Coils_3.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSCN2324.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:40 PM
Got everything out of engine bay, washed it, cleaned rusted areas, applied POR 15 (twice), skin now stained for a week, scruffed it with 220 grit, cleaned it and all fender wells with 91% isopropyl alcohol, filled seams that were sanded/scraped away with 3M Allaround Auto Body Sealant, covered rest of car so I could paint, but it decided to rain so I put hood and car cover back on. Also fixed rusted spots in the rear and welded in some 11 GA steel pieces cut to fill in the badly rusted areas. Oh yeah also figured out why the driver side rear quarter panel has some rust on it, you'll know why too when you see the pic :confused:. The pics...
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2596.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5837.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5838.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2536.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5840.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5850.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2543.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2603.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5835.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2625.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2628.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5832.jpg
Had a hard time welding here. Metal was super thin and would blow through on thinnest metal setting so I had to bump the wire feed speed up to 90!! Got this area pretty hot, the crapet wrapping around the strut tower started to smoke :ohno: but didnt catch on fire. Close one.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSCN2541.jpg
WTF is that doing in there??? Not sure but I pulled it out of the drain plug.
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:42 PM
Used almost a whole quart of SEM Rust sheild black. Decided to use that instead of the chassis black since it can be sprayed out of an HVLP gun. Added hardener and 3-4 coats later heres what she looks like. Sorry about image quality, broke my crappy camera and havent figured out this other quite yet. Also pic of welded spots with a coat of POR 15.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5869.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5873.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5879.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5884.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5883.jpg
Painted rear fenderwells and body using SEM Rust sheild black. Undercoated the trans tunnel SEM Rubberized undercoat. Might do another coat on the tunnel, looks a little light even though there are 2-3 coats.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5892.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5895.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5898.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5894.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5908.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5900.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5910.jpg
xiaphin
08-31-2010, 07:44 PM
Think thats enough for now. Read it, let it settle, digest it. Another big post dump in a couple days.
WheelWhore
08-31-2010, 08:42 PM
looking real good man. quality.
davirene
08-31-2010, 11:37 PM
Hey great build.....lots of work....but great pics...with great writing on the "how to stuff"...this will help out alot of noobs on here.
Your work will pay off.....when you go down the road.....:)
Om1kron
09-01-2010, 03:22 AM
yeah descriptions with the pictures would've been nice.
xiaphin
09-01-2010, 08:12 AM
Looks good to me but 555cc is a little small, just got 740 and never look back done...
Had the 550's forever so I'll run them for a while nd if any problems arise they are easy enough to swap out. U think I'm gonna have fuel consumption issues with them?
yeah descriptions with the pictures would've been nice.
Wasnt sure how detailed to make the massive posts. What pics u want descriptions for and I'll add them. Left out some irrelevant posts from NICO thread. If u happen to mosey on over there nd see something I missed LMK.
az_240
09-01-2010, 12:51 PM
One thing I suggest with those ES poly bushings in the uprights and LCAs is to trim the bushings slightly or put washers on the ends of the sleeves so the suspension can travel without binding against the brackets.
I didn't do this when I first got my ES bushings and it made the cars suspension bind horribly.
Zerk fittings would have been nice as well since the grease wears out after only like a month of driving and everything squeeks and binds. Zerks allow you to quickly re-lube.
endlessboost
09-01-2010, 04:51 PM
Awesome build dude! Keep up the good work.
nismoracingsx
09-04-2010, 05:56 AM
So you left Nico because people didn't feel like commenting on the millionth build thread posted? :p
See one build thread, you've seen em' all, I really wish there was a different section just for build threads so that these wouldn't clutter up the thread list..
xiaphin
09-04-2010, 01:07 PM
So you left Nico because people didn't feel like commenting on the millionth build thread posted? :p
yep.......
xiaphin
09-04-2010, 01:18 PM
SPL Subframe bushings installed. Freezer, grease, wood, hammer, sweat, bigger hammer, bigger piece of wood, more sweat, maul, and done.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5913.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5912.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5915.jpg
Subframe installed onto car. Rubber isolator and one collar used above subframe.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5934.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5935.jpg
Removed bushings from Diff. Checked stackup of solid bushings bought off E-bay. Bushings are .026" too thick and will need to be sanded in order for the diff to sit flush.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5922.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5923.jpg
innovation
09-04-2010, 08:55 PM
Even with freezing, was it hard as hell to get those bushings in?
xiaphin
09-05-2010, 12:46 PM
Even with freezing, was it hard as hell to get those bushings in?
It sure was. I blame part of it on the holes being powdercoated which is not what was asked for. With freezing and grease when being installed you could see fine shavings of aluminum come off the bushing. Had to use a maul on the last one... boy was it stubborn.
xiaphin
09-05-2010, 07:21 PM
Got all of the rear arms installed both sides, next comes the Z32 drum ebrake, hubs, axles and diff.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Passenger_Rear_3.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Passenger_Rear_4.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Driver_Rear.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Driver_Rear_2.jpg
Tried installing the hub and drum e-brake while on the car, bad idea. The anchor pin for the drum e-brake is a b*itch to install. After using a cutoff wheel to remove the nut from the bolt connecting the RUCA to the rear spindle, somehow the nylon lock nut stripped a thread and got stuck. I bent the bolt trying to remove the nut, it was not cross threaded so don't go there, and its a grade 8 bolt not some low grade BS. Luckily other side came right off.
Once off the car I knocked the anchor pin out with a brass hammer, slightly greased the anchor pin bore after a light sanding to remove some 20+ year corrosion. Lined everything up and used an impact gun, cycling between the 4 hub bolts and the anchor pin nut. Had to jam a wrench in between the side of anchor pin to prevent it from rotating while hitting it with the impact gun. Z32 FSM wants this bad boy torqued from 159-224 ft. lbs. which is slightly more than the wheel bearing nut, 152-203. Seems a bit overkill to me but the FSM is the FSM. Gonna be fun getting a torque wrench on this on the car.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5993.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5995.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_5996.jpg
Decided to turn the bushings down in the lathe instead of grinding them. Pic of all 4 is after adding a chamfer. Installed slide flange with new cir-clip, cleaned cover, installed with new gasket, installed diff and J30 axles onto car.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Diff_bushings_machined_not_machined.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/Diff_bushings_machined_and_chamfere.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6051.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6055.jpg
Mangudai
09-05-2010, 09:52 PM
Very thorough I enjoyed reading all this.
xiaphin
09-06-2010, 09:10 AM
Very thorough I enjoyed reading all this.
Thanks... nice to know its not just another boring build to some people. Want more descriptions on any posts LMK.
xiaphin
09-06-2010, 09:24 AM
Put these on today. Also installed new throw out bearing and nismo clutch fork pivot. Didnt take pic of clutch disc but its the ACT 6 puck sprung hub. Some thing was missing when I took these picks and had to reinstall it all again. No one at NICO noticed. First one to notice gets a gold star.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_6091.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_6094.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_6095.jpg
Hottest day of the year when we installed this thing. Stuff on upside down/backwards, do things twice, put things on take things off put back on again. Car gods hate me. Not my glasses by the way.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6141.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6142.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6164.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6165.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6166.jpg
xiaphin
09-06-2010, 12:04 PM
Had problems with manifold and PBMand posted it earlier, so just a link to it - #/f/s-chassis/338849-pbm-cobra-downpipe-forced-performance-combo-install-problem.html
Went with the stock manifold and the PBM Flex, Megan straight pipe and Apexi N1 Dual bolted up just fine. Had the insulator mounted to the PBM with both bolts but it was so twisted that I went with one instead. Lowered it a little more than an inch. Undercoated that bottom of my gas tank after these were taken, getting rid of that white overspray. Gas tank was resto'd with POR 15 Fuel Repair Kit and Walbro fuel pump. All hoses replaced. No pics of that.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6237.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6251.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6244.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6248.jpg
CLM_s13Type-x
09-06-2010, 12:49 PM
Awesome build coming right along man:cool:
Sergio180sx
09-06-2010, 01:47 PM
NICE!! cant wait to see more
hOngsterr
09-06-2010, 02:16 PM
buhaha, you painted the underbody black but left the diff unpainted? but yeah great build.
xiaphin
09-08-2010, 07:04 PM
buhaha, you painted the underbody black but left the diff unpainted? but yeah great build.
Haha yeah I didnt even realize that. Oh well
xiaphin
09-08-2010, 07:10 PM
Got my 225/50/16 BF G-sport 2's mounted the other day. Spme shots of rims on car and lack of clearance, definitely have to run a spacer up front. Sways, JGY driveshaft, and IC piping installed. You are either gonna hate my rims or love them. Look totally different in sun compared to low light same goes with flash - no flash.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02903.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02905.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02906.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02907.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02908.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/DSC02911.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSC02910.jpg
S14DB
09-08-2010, 07:31 PM
How was installing the starter after the motor was in the car?
xiaphin
09-09-2010, 03:44 PM
As easy as it would be with engine out of the car I guess. Did it from the bottom.
VQMaxFan
09-09-2010, 04:40 PM
The forgotten part was the spacer between the block and trans im assuming. Ive forgot to put that back 3 or 4 times now... The one on my car just has a big notch cut out of it so i could slide it in.
Oh and working on a car with a clean underbody is so nice and worth the work.
xiaphin
09-09-2010, 07:02 PM
The forgotten part was the spacer between the block and trans im assuming. Ive forgot to put that back 3 or 4 times now... The one on my car just has a big notch cut out of it so i could slide it in.
Oh and working on a car with a clean underbody is so nice and worth the work.
Ding Ding Ding... We got a winner... We got a winner... Mr. VQMaxFan
So you've ran without the backing plate without any problems? I got lucky and found one local. Yeah cleaning the underbody was a bitch and a half but it looks good for now. Still didnt get all the dirt and oil off though.
Sam_Well.13
09-09-2010, 08:29 PM
damn. great build man, but the UPS brown color, ehhh.. thats your thing. Other than that, keep up the good work.
S14DB
09-09-2010, 10:27 PM
Ding Ding Ding... We got a winner... We got a winner... Mr. VQMaxFan
So you've ran without the backing plate without any problems? I got lucky and found one local. Yeah cleaning the underbody was a bitch and a half but it looks good for now. Still didnt get all the dirt and oil off though.Had a local guy that went from a DSM to an sr 240. Had the motor rebuilt and swore he had crank walk after he put it back in. When he pulled the motor he realized that leaving the plate out allowed the input shaft of the transmission to hit the crank. Nice wear marks. Put the plate back in and the sound went away.
VQMaxFan
09-10-2010, 02:36 AM
No, we/i took everything back apart and put the spacer back on, very frustrating.
jlawdet
09-10-2010, 09:31 AM
sweet build man. very clean. excellent pictures.
dr.klawn
09-10-2010, 03:46 PM
No, we/i took everything back apart and put the spacer back on, very frustrating.
I can't believe u could get the tranny to mate up fully without the spacer plate J... i forgot mine a few yrs ago doing the 5-spd swap & i couldn't draw the tranny tight enough to the motor without it. lesson learned tho
OP.. great lookin car man!!!
xiaphin
09-10-2010, 08:01 PM
One thing I suggest with those ES poly bushings in the uprights and LCAs is to trim the bushings slightly or put washers on the ends of the sleeves so the suspension can travel without binding against the brackets.
Zerk fittings would have been nice as well since the grease wears out after only like a month of driving and everything squeeks and binds. Zerks allow you to quickly re-lube.
Have to wait and see how mine reacts. Hopefully it will move freely and not squeak, if not, I like the zerk fitting idea. Just might have to do that on down the road.
damn. great build man, but the UPS brown color, ehhh.. thats your thing. Other than that, keep up the good work.
Wondering how ppl were gonna feel about the UPS brown wheels, IC, and valve cover among other things. But I'm digging the color combo's and like being original. Hard to do with so many 240's out there nowadays.
Had a local guy that went from a DSM to an sr 240. Had the motor rebuilt and swore he had crank walk after he put it back in. When he pulled the motor he realized that leaving the plate out allowed the input shaft of the transmission to hit the crank. Nice wear marks. Put the plate back in and the sound went away.
Glad that I sourced one and put it on. Sounds like the guy who switched to a SR got lucky.
Om1kron
09-27-2010, 12:17 AM
best thing you could've done to that motor before dropping it in was getting rid of the water feed for the turbo around the back of the block and buying an s14 upper water neck and feeding it through that. That caused me so much headaches after I got my swap in.
negrosx13
09-27-2010, 01:15 AM
im with him on that^^^^^
awesome build,i really like how fixed up the engine bay with using the sealant. Did you buy that 3m Auto Body Sealant online or from a store?? I want to do that to mine.
also the brown looks cool as hell,maybe too brown for say myself but looks good
xiaphin
09-27-2010, 05:15 PM
best thing you could've done to that motor before dropping it in was getting rid of the water feed for the turbo around the back of the block and buying an s14 upper water neck and feeding it through that. That caused me so much headaches after I got my swap in.
Always wondered why the coolant line for the turbo was in such a terrible place. Would have done that for sure if I knew about that. Did your line leak or come loose? That would be a PITA to fix.
Did you buy that 3m Auto Body Sealant online or from a store?? I want to do that to mine.
also the brown looks cool as hell,maybe too brown for say myself but looks good
Got the sealant at my local NAPA paint store. Never seen the brown done before and said why not plus its my favorite color.
Big update coming this weekend after I pick up my cage and interior. Been working on this lately. Never seen this done before, two 60mm Defi BF White gauges sandwiched by a 70mm 350z door vent. Space is non existent here. Still have to reinforce it and paint it.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/DSC02900.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/DSC02920.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/DSC02922.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/DSC02925.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/DSC02926.jpg
Zach-sr
09-30-2010, 07:29 AM
Pretty good idea with the vent. I think it would look better flush but still looks awesome.:bigok:
Datenshi
09-30-2010, 11:46 AM
^ I have to agree.
Try to get them to sit more flush and it would look amazing. Still looks dec. already though.
oldboy
09-30-2010, 03:20 PM
looking forward to following this. not a fan of the amount of brown used and where is was used. but thats all on u and either way, looks clean. Also very informative!!
shinhed
09-30-2010, 03:46 PM
In before he paints the car brown.
om3ga
10-09-2010, 10:22 PM
It appears that your injectors are installed backwards. Clean overall though.
Keep it brown.
KiLLeR2001
10-10-2010, 12:42 AM
Very nice build. I would have dropped the gas tank when you had the whole rear end removed and flushed it out / cleaned it up. Then probably paint the bottom of that black as well. Either way, good work so far.
xiaphin
10-11-2010, 09:37 PM
In before he paints the car brown.
Hahah that would be overkill even for me. When the car gets fresh paint it will be some shade of grey. Happen when I get 180sx OEM bumper, skirts, CF hood, and tails. Long way away.
It appears that your injectors are installed backwards. Clean overall though.
Keep it brown.
Wondered why the harness didn't fit on the injectors well. Thanks, will fix that when I run my AN fuel lines.
Very nice build. I would have dropped the gas tank when you had the whole rear end removed and flushed it out / cleaned it up. Then probably paint the bottom of that black as well. Either way, good work so far.
Did that just forgot to take pics. Bought the POR 15 gas tank kit. Also undercoated the outside of it black after I saw how crappy it looked in the exhaust pics.
Here are some pics of my progress with the Autopower Bolt in cage, interior and sound system. PITA getting the cage in while retaining the rear interior panels. Hope to have the interior 95% complete this week minus some gauges, switches, and alarm. Ignore the nasty looking sunroof gasket in early shots its been taken car of. Might paint the light grey accents a darker shade.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6304.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6311.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6313.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6300.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6315.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6319.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6322.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6325.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6326.jpg
xiaphin
10-12-2010, 07:40 PM
Definitely painting the grey accents a darker shade. Something in between my headliner and seats. Looks too close to white, not what I was going for. The brown is alot darker in person, the flash doesnt do it justice.
Why the sound system + interior + cage? Seems like a weird mix.
xiaphin
10-13-2010, 08:15 AM
I want to have as many daily death rattles as possible. haha jk. Had planned on the Kappa perfects from the get go but the rollcage just fell into my lap, got a good deal on it. Getting all the rear interior and cage in was the biggest pain in the ass ever. And if you haven't noticed yet, I do things a little different than everybody else.
tommytwo40hands
10-13-2010, 08:52 PM
why brown???
Why not?
Props on following through with a color. I dunno about the white on the interior honestly i would like to see it with black n brown.
sm0611
10-14-2010, 04:01 AM
Everything is looking good man. Im going to have to agree with you on painting the grey stuff a little darker. I just did the same thing and moved here from nico. Tons better haha
xiaphin
10-15-2010, 12:40 PM
why brown???
Brown = Because Rednecks Own Wicked Nissans
But seriously what WakeBHR said. Something different and browns my favorite color. And that white is actually grey just way too light. Just picked up some darker greys a minute ago. Post pics later. Gotta work.
xiaphin
10-16-2010, 07:36 PM
Repainted all accents with a dark pewter. Has a slight browinsh tint and looks thousand times better than the smoked gray in previous pics. Wired up my amp (cant believe that tiny thing is 1200w 4 channel), with help from a kicker 4 gauge Z series installation kit (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17767_Kicker+ZCK44+-+09ZCK44.html) (already ran my speaker wires so if anybody wants the wire LMK they are 16GA silver tinned copper), installed head unit, picked up an Odyssey PC925-A battery, cleaned up all my switches since they had overspray on them from previous owners 10 ft. paint job, flipped injectors, made and installed AN fuel lines. Have to mount my PS resovior beside the clutch slave. NO room with the Apexi intake. Anyone else using this kit? Its for a Z32 MAF if that makes a difference. Time to enjoy the good beer seasin and drink some BCS - for those who dont know Brooklyn - Black Chocolate Stout (http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/brooklyn-black-chocolate-stout/531/)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6339.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6340.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6341.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6342.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6344.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6330.jpg
T-FAST
10-16-2010, 11:30 PM
Nice build! I would have opted for an even darker shade of grey, but that is better than the other grey. Keep up the good work
Quicksilver_s13
10-17-2010, 01:36 AM
very thorough on the underside of the car. your labors turned out nicely. i'll be looking to this page for reference when i do my aluminum subframe spacers. the brown is throwing me a big ? but props for sticking with it. at least you match everything to it so it's clean.
benarovi
10-17-2010, 10:46 AM
tight work looks real good no halfassed shit. but why u got the back seats with a roll cage?? thats really dangerous for ppl in the back seats
xiaphin
10-20-2010, 08:27 PM
Finished the dash gauge and vent mount, installed it. Drilled four holes in back of mounting plate, epoxied 10-24 threaded rod on backside, fastened to dash with two aluminum strips and wingnuts. Upload pics is anyones interested. Mounted PS resovoir by clutch slave using one hole for that green thin and tapped the other. Going to mount my Wideband and 2 other 60mm defi gauges below my cd player.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6345.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6349.jpg
Datenshi
10-21-2010, 11:07 AM
You should have put the gauges further into the dash. They stick out way too much in my opinion. They definitely look like they could fit flush with the dash.
gonshik007
10-21-2010, 02:32 PM
And I was just wondering why didn't you paint the diff the whole under carriage is so beautiful but than there is the unpainted diff? And I second the Gauges.
xiaphin
10-21-2010, 08:51 PM
Gauge mount is my first attempt. They stick out farther than I would like but will have to do for now. The diff was prepped to be painted but got carried away and installed it. Realized after it was in, oh well.
gonshik007
10-22-2010, 06:33 AM
Gauge mount is my first attempt. They stick out farther than I would like but will have to do for now. The diff was prepped to be painted but got carried away and installed it. Realized after it was in, oh well.
Tape off the area around it and give it a coat cant be that hard :) Will look tones better :)
xiaphin
10-22-2010, 04:39 PM
Tape off the area around it and give it a coat cant be that hard :) Will look tones better :)
Will do that when the underside of my hood gets painted. Pic of mounting hardware for vent gauges and a test fit on broken dash trim. Two 60mm Defi gauges will be on the right side. Final piece to be finished early tomorrow. Anybody make a corner dash gauge mount for LHD cars? Only find one for a WRX LHD and S-Chassis RHD cars.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6351.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6352.jpg
xiaphin
10-29-2010, 08:12 AM
Defi daisy chain power wires were too short to finish center console over weekend. Should have longer ones today. Modified heater core vent to flow air only to the 350z vent. Used some plastic and cut a 3" flex pipe that I found in the roofing section of Lowes. Safety wired, siliconed, and glued together. Also was able to start and finish mounting all my controllers into the glovebox. Constructed out of 3/4 wood wrapped in gray suede to match headliner, door inserts, and glovebox. Held in place by 1/2 x 1/8 thick aluminum and Velcro. Pic dump.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6354.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6356.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6359.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6365.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6371.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6373.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6374.jpg
xiaphin
10-30-2010, 03:17 PM
Got other two gauges mounted. Tested sound system. Off to see Cake, maybe they'll play Stickshifts and Safety belts. One can only hope.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6375.jpg
xiaphin
11-05-2010, 06:35 PM
Defi link and gauges up and running. Turbo timer installed. DIF fan controller and boost controller almost complete. All wires soldered and labeled. Installing LM-1 wideband tommorow and wiring it to dataloggit box as well. Connected PowerFC dataloggit to computer and downloaded enthalpy's ign timing map. Read that these values are far superior to the map provided on the FC from Apexi. Going to use scotties tune taken from freshalloy as a starting point. Hoping to fire it up in a week or two.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_1167.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6377.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_1160.jpg
xiaphin
01-29-2011, 09:45 AM
Not much work done on car last month or so. Been to damn cold outside. Went to torque crank bolt but no go. Car in gear (4th) and friend applying brakes. Engine just spins freely. Bled clutch and breaks with suction or pressure bleeder. Press clutch, slave cylinder rod moves. Gonna roll my fenders, adjust the E-brake and put car on the ground. Hope this will do the trick.
Great job so far, I hear ya on the lack of feedback on Nico, I'm bringing my build over here for the same reason.
Pure_JDM
02-08-2011, 05:32 PM
Props on the glove box work...
BLKTOPSR20DET
02-09-2011, 12:12 AM
looks f ing awsome!
xiaphin
02-10-2011, 04:45 PM
Put ass end of car on ground, in 3rd and foot on brake and was able to torque the crank bolt. Never had to put car on ground to do that before WTF. Reminds me of bleeding the breaks on my buddys S2000. Car had to be running in order for them to be bled WTF. Swapped all IC piping worm gear clamps out for T-Bolt clamps. Couple more things to do before I hopefully start it this weekend.
BLKTOPSR20DET & Pure_JDM: Thanks for the comments
What size are the bolts for the seatbelts in the A-pillar? Not having any luck finding the right size.
Edit: Bolts are standard 7/16-20.
xiaphin
02-19-2011, 01:17 PM
Auto to manual conversion with the park/neutral switch jumpered.
Getting fuel just no spark.
Thought ignitor chip (Z32) was bad but tried my extra one and even robbed one off my Z that I know is good. Still no spark.
So I checked voltage, and ground on all 4 coilpack harnesses and it checks out. Also continuity from coilpack harness ground and ignitor chip.
TPS, CAS, Ignitor chip, MAF, fuses and relays all good.
Took CAS out and spun by hand and could hear EGI Relay click, all 4 injectors click, and hear ignitor clicking / buzzing but no spark. Had a coil pack out of valvecover with spark plug connected.
If I try to start car and have voltmeter probe in far right coilpack harness connector (signal wire) I'm not seeing any voltage or fluctuation in voltage. Doesnt the CAS send a signal in voltage to the coilpacks telling them to fire?
Havent checked with a spare coilpack. Hoping to find one I can borrow locally. Dont see how all four coilpacks would be bad though.
Anything I'm overlooking here other than checking a coilpack I know is good?
Nategreat923
02-19-2011, 01:55 PM
I like the UPS brown, because I work there :P Shoulda topped it off with yellow accents hahaha. Keep it up!
xiaphin
02-21-2011, 04:22 PM
Have a working CAS and 4 matching coil packs otw. Hoping it fixes my problem. Nardi Kallista on its way from aspec (http://www.aspecproducts.com/) as well :drool: Did get one engine up and running this weekend though. 1 out of 2 aint bad.
xiaphin
02-22-2011, 06:47 PM
Turned out to be a bad CAS. Now spark is good. Car starts but then dies. Time to figure out whats causing this. Disconnected MAF, no difference. Disconnected TPS, no difference. Messed with IACV idle screw, just chasing my tail here. Bumped fuel pressure up. Have like 80 psi when pump primes and then drops to zero if i wait long enough. Should my fuel pressure hold at a certain pressure if the car isnt running/idling? I think it shouldn't. Gonna look at my vaccum routing tomorrow.
S14DB
02-22-2011, 07:35 PM
Should go up to 43.5psi and then hold it there to you start it. After you turn off the car is should stay at above 40 for at least an hour.
Silvia716
02-22-2011, 08:41 PM
I got to say shit looks fresh as hell, i just want to know what you used to paint your interior cuz i did mine with the shit from advanced dont think it came out as good as yours
Om1kron
02-23-2011, 12:50 AM
saw brown interior, seen all i needed to see. good luck with this.
xiaphin
02-23-2011, 08:12 AM
Should go up to 43.5psi and then hold it there to you start it. After you turn off the car is should stay at above 40 for at least an hour.
I knew that 43.5 was the magic number just unsure if the value needed to be higher when pump primed or not. Time to look at my fuel pump wiring. Have deatschwerks hardwire kit.
saw brown interior, seen all i needed to see. good luck with this.
Dont diss it yet. At least wait until my interior is complete. Cage, seats and wheel to be installed by next weekend.
S14DB
02-23-2011, 10:11 AM
I knew that 43.5 was the magic number just unsure if the value needed to be higher when pump primed or not. Time to look at my fuel pump wiring. Have deatschwerks hardwire kit.
I would say it's your FPR or how you have it hosed in the bay. It works off vac/pressure so, it's going stay at 43.5 till the engine starts.
xiaphin
02-23-2011, 01:09 PM
Using a SARD FPR AN type. No pics of routing on my photobucket. Do remember using all three nipples on the throttle body. Believe I ran them like this: One to BOV, other to boost gauge , last one to FPR and think it gets teed off for boost controller solenoid and boost controller. Don't quote me on this. Post pic of setup after work.
S14DB
02-23-2011, 02:35 PM
BOV and FPR should be on the Manifold side. Boost Solenoid should be on the cold pipe side of the TB.
Fuel lines should be Supply->Filter->Rail->FPR->Return.
xiaphin
02-23-2011, 08:51 PM
Helps if you wire the fuel pump up right. Had the yellow and blue wire going to relay instead of white and purple. Maybe I'm colorblind. Anyways holds pressure. Here's a pic of my vac routing for ya S14DB. Fule lines are setup correctly.Cranks then dies still. Think its weird that even with relay wired in the pump works only when factory harness is connected. Isnt relay supposed to eliminate the need of having this connection?
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/HOSE_ROUNTING.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/DSC02960.jpg
xiaphin
02-24-2011, 06:26 PM
Sprayed a little ether into my intake and car ran for about 5 seconds. Running very lean. Time to mess with my fuel map and get this sucker running.
xiaphin
03-04-2011, 05:35 PM
Got car running last weekend. Just let it idle for 5 minutes and turned her off. Oil pressure and fuel pressure were great. Had a couple leaky AN connections... fixed those. Put fluid in trans. Tachometer didnt work and realized I needed a DOHC tach so swapped that out. Trimmed bumper to fit Intercooler. Put front part of cage in only to find out that the glovebox cant open. WTF so Im gonna modify the way it opens since all my controllers are in there. Kallista be here on the 9th. Gotta turn a piece on the lathe to fix my quick disconnect hub. And the list goes on. Time to get back to it.
BTW for those of you who have a hard time getting the fill plug loose cause some idiot tightened it way too much. Use a bottle jack and simply jack up the opposite end of the wrench that is on the plug. Couldn't break it loose with heat so I had to go oldschool on it.
xiaphin
03-20-2011, 03:10 PM
Planned on updating this with pics of the car riding around since everything is done and just needs tuning. Got interior finished and car idling and responding properly. Went to put car in gear but it wouldnt budge. Goes in gear without the engine running. So I re-bled the clutch and adjusted the clutch pedal but still wouldnt go in gear while running. Decided to pull the tranny and found a broken finger on my pressure plate. WTF is that. You can see one finger in first pic out of line with the rest. Its pretty clear in the other what is wrong. Broken right where there is a split in the plate itself. Since I bought this almost a year ago I'm most likely just gonna have to buy another one but we will see.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Transmission_removed.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/BrokenDiaphram-1.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Front.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Broken_plate.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_3196.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Interior/IMG_6574.jpg
xiaphin
04-08-2011, 07:17 PM
Got a new pressure plate from ACT which fixed the problem of not being able to go in gear with the engine running. Turns out old plate had a factory defect. Installed B&M short shifter and Cusco shifter bushing as well.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6592.jpg
Had appointment for tuning at TDC last weekend but had to cancel due to a problem with my 300zx booster not releasing pressure, keeping brakes on all the time. Shortened booster rod but brakes still stayed on. Swapped out with booster that came on the car but no change. Went ahead and bought the Centric 17/16 master cylinder from Z1 motorsports. Installed and pressure bled a whole quart through the system, problem fixed. Hit exhaust really hard on gas station tank refueling covers. :ohno: Pushed it back and dented muffler on swaybar and bent some other shit. Moved exhaust forward an inch and up two. Made bracket to keep in this position. Cut an inch out of test pipe, rewelded. Installed two new exhaust hangers. Had PS steering leak. Fixed by installing ISIS braided line.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6600.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6603.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6596.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_6598.jpg
xnissan240sx
04-08-2011, 08:51 PM
looks tight
xiaphin
04-29-2011, 05:37 PM
Buddy and I noticed the my injector correction values were incorrect and my logged wideband values didnt match up with the gauge. Rewired gauge to dataloggit per Innovate motorsports instructions online, which are different than those in the pdf sent with the wideband. Anyways I reprogrammed it for 0V = 9.0 and 5V=18 AFR with LCprogrammer and changed settings in datalogit. Now gauge and logged values match.
Then I changed the values to 67.0 and .01 msec of delay since I have Nismo 550's. Settings were 100 and .1msec, not sure how these got in there but somehow my car has been running on that setting for a couple weeks, just rich. Now car runs lean as hell at idle. Weird thing is that I loaded my old map and old settings, one the car was running on for a couple weeks, and still the same thing. WTF?!
Set injector correction back to the correct values of 67.0 and .01 msec. Maxed out correction (1.469) for the load cells at idle, still lean like 18 AFR. Bumped INJ vs. Water Temp values up for +30 to 1.5, and +50 to 1.25. Now idles at 13.8-15.0. Want it to be 12.5-13.0 at idle.
Is it normal to have to raise the water temp correction so much?
S14DB
04-29-2011, 07:23 PM
You are using a z32 maf with the PowerFC?
What is your maf voltage at idle(~800rpm)?
xiaphin
04-30-2011, 10:34 AM
Yes I'm using a z32 maf with powerfc.
voltage at idle is avg=1.1 cell n1, p2
I have not modified my airflow curve voltages.
S14DB
04-30-2011, 04:46 PM
Yes I'm using a z32 maf with powerfc.
voltage at idle is avg=1.1 cell n1, p2
I have not modified my airflow curve voltages.
You should. Should be 0.8v at Key on, 1.6v at idle (800rpm)AND 2.0v at 2500rpm.
xiaphin
05-01-2011, 04:29 PM
I know that MAF voltage relates to airflow and airflow to rpm but I'm not quite sure how to apply this information into the datalogit. I'm thinking that the values that need to be changed are on settings tab 3 in the bottom chart, airflow 4 row. The values in this row are slightly lower than the values I found in this VQ table (https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Anmiu0rUufw3dExLMFZMNkdkZ2pwdUR0aHZnMkhke VE&hl=en&authkey=CIyvhsED) on the SR20forum.
Would the load values located on settings tab 3, map reference, also need to be changed in order for rpm to match airflow? Since 800 rpm=1.6v=1711
S14DB
05-01-2011, 04:47 PM
I only know how to do it in the commander.
xiaphin
05-01-2011, 06:07 PM
I only know how to do it in the commander.
I can still us the commander to interface with the PFC. Would you mind explaining how it is changed with the commander? I do have VG30 selected for the MAFS.
S14DB
05-01-2011, 06:33 PM
On the screen where you select the maf. After you select the maf push the arrow over and it will go to the trim screen.
xiaphin
05-02-2011, 05:55 PM
On the screen where you select the maf. After you select the maf push the arrow over and it will go to the trim screen.
Ok thanks, that screen is the same as airflow on my setting 3 tab. Adjusted 0.64v=130.0% , 1.28v=140.0% , 1.92v=140.0% , and 2.56v=140.0%. Figured if car was reading 1.1v at 800 rpm instead of 1.6 i just divided 1.1 by 1.6 to get 1.45. Thats why I adjusted it to 140% Left water temp corrections alone but put INJ map back to stock S13 correction values. This resulted in an idle with AFR's going from 13.3-14.8. Would like for it to be more stable though. Seems to bounce around more than it did before my car took a crap. Also really lean when giving it gas. (Not driving it around yet)
Are these numbers simliar to what you have adjusted? If my simple calculations are correct I'm assuming I need to determine what rpm the SR20 MAF reads at each voltage value in the chart, record my voltage at that rpm, and divide for my correction value.
xiaphin
05-28-2011, 08:29 PM
Finally got it tuned on Friday at TDC in Spartanburg. Only ran into one problem, had the wrong spark plugs in, NGK BKR6E, causing car to break up in high RPM's. Swapped them out for the colder NGK BKR7E and had no more problems. It didnt hit my estimated 350whp but my numbers were:
303whp 287tq at 18psi.
Did have one run with 300whp 297tq at 18psi. Post chart when I get the image from them. Surprised how close the hp and torque numbers are. Guys at shop believe 350 is attainable when I upgrade the stock intake and turbo manifolds. Will say that its a little unnerving when hearing your car go all the way to redline for the first time!!!! Side note this dyno has been known to be 10-13% lower than others. But a dyno hp number is just a number, this car has a nice power band and is tons of fun to drive.
On the Dyno.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/IMG_1574.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/IMG_1567.jpg
Click on video image for video.
14 psi Boost controller off pull
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/th_1306525010.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/?action=view¤t=1306525010.mp4)
18 psi final pull
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/th_IMG_1577_NEW.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/?action=view¤t=IMG_1577_NEW.mp4)
They had a G35 sedan with a 2JZ swap in the shop.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/IMG_4078.jpg
xiaphin
06-12-2011, 05:54 PM
Car running weird lately may be due to my TPS which I think is bad.
Running symptoms on Post #14 of this thread if interested- #/f/tech-talk/378124-powerfc-datalogit-problems-map-trace-not-working-no-base-map-tab.html#post4093705
Looked at sensor check on PFC it reads 4.85 volts. Then manually checked with voltmeter probing white wire, 5.1v closed and 1.2v WOT. But to make sure it wasnt due to my wiring, from auto to maual tps, also checked resistance per FSM. Between pins B and C with throttle closed there .67 kΩ, at WOT it is 11.7kΩ. Believe it is broken internally. Feedback, is it broken?
Picked this up the other week from member off Zilvia. Said he was making 610 whp in his drag car, he sold the rest of the setup as a set so I got lucky just buying this. Greddy Intake Manifold that has been ported and polished. Manifold also ported to match Ford (65mm) throttle body with crazy return spring. In order to run the throttle body have to run the Ford TPS. If SR TPS is broken probably going to swap manifold and wire up the new one, see no sense in buying another SR one.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_6637.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/SR20DET%20Build%20for%20S13/IMG_6640.jpg
As I bet some others did I bought the overstocked 2010 PBM Traction Rods and Tension Rods. Couldnt pass up that deal.
xiaphin
06-18-2011, 08:28 AM
Fixed the TPS. Had connections A and C backwards. Now .4 at closed 4.1 WOT. Swapped TPS out with a 97 Sentra SE-R one. Installed PBM traction rods up front.
Visual comparison of the Circuit Sports to the PBM's traction rods (tension rods). PBM is lighter and all aluminum but the center body is almost 2.5x as long as the CS. Thread on pieces are about 1.25x the diameter. PBM's bearing are covered/protected and also has 2 holes for grease fittings, the CS have neither. Easy to tell the difference between a high quality peice and a knock off. Post pics of the rear after I find my PBM lugnut socket. DOH! These are for an S13.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6643.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6644.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6646.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/Suspension/IMG_6647.jpg
S13.75DET
06-18-2011, 11:58 AM
lookin good phatty! now drive your ass out to Aspen for a vacation!! And bring those z32 trans with you!! :hsdance:
xiaphin
06-05-2013, 05:55 PM
Been a long time since I've been on here. Car doesnt have roll cage anymore but other than that nothing has changed. Although I have gone from a Z32 to a G35 Nismo Sedan to a Genesis Sedan in the meantime. Car still has an issue that is bothering me. My Sard FPR has always had a tiny fuel leak out of the bottom port. Port has been retapped for fitting to thread in farther and has thread sealer on it. Running aeroquip fittings and fuel lines. Fuel pressure is 55 psi at idle and goes up to 80 psi, i think, at full boost. Pics attached. Anyone else had a similar problem with this FPR?
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7603_zpseaf41794.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7603_zpseaf41794.jpg.html)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7606_zpsdf71cb02.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7606_zpsdf71cb02.jpg.html)
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z50/xiaphin/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7608_zpsfd30f351.jpg (http://s191.photobucket.com/user/xiaphin/media/1990%20Fastback%20SR20%20Build/IMG_7608_zpsfd30f351.jpg.html)
NickIsAZero
06-05-2013, 06:10 PM
Bump because Austin's G35 was in here.
xiaphin
06-05-2013, 06:11 PM
Bump because Austin's G35 was in here.
It sure was that thing was a beast. They were doing some street pulls during my dyno session.
S14DB
06-05-2013, 09:23 PM
I am glad I am not the only one. I had to remove and reseal the fittings 3 different times to get it to seal. I think the bottom fitting 2x and the gauge once. I thought it was the hoses it was so much fuel. I was using the fittings in the box. I had to crank down on the thread thread the second time to get it to seal.
Just use a bunch of fuel safe sealant and crank it down.
Juantwo3
06-05-2013, 10:44 PM
whats the ride like on this man iv always wanted to change my upright bushings
Oakville
06-06-2013, 12:50 AM
I've gotta ask...do you or did you ever work for UPS? I've seen people run with a color on stickers and wheels...never this hardcore though, keep it up
xiaphin
06-06-2013, 04:21 PM
whats the ride like on this man iv always wanted to change my upright bushings
Elaborate on upright bushings. Every bushing on the car has been replaced and never driven an S13 with stock suspension.
I've gotta ask...do you or did you ever work for UPS? I've seen people run with a color on stickers and wheels...never this hardcore though, keep it up
Nope Never have just thought there 18 wheelers looked good with the brown and grey. Thought about throwing in an orange for accent but that would be too flashy for me.
xiaphin
03-30-2014, 07:08 PM
As many of you might have noticed this car no longer exists. After trying to sell it for a couple of months with no interest I decided to part it out. Thanks to the Zilvia community 80% or more of my items have been given a second life. Who knows I may be back in the future.
MonkeyWrench
03-13-2015, 12:06 AM
Ah, the karma. :keke:
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