Power Steering+AN Lines + Cooler=Good times!

[japslapsilvia]

So ive had some members PM me about my PowerSteering Setup. so i figured i would post a quick how to.

Rack Return 16x1.5 O ringed to -6AN 991955ERL
Rack High Pressure 14x1.5 O-ringed -6AN 991954ERL
Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00410.jpg

For the line I bought 2 feet…only used about 1.5 feet or so.. of 130006ERL Power steering hose.
and 2 of theses 139106ERL 90* -6AN hose ends for Power steering hose.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00408.jpg

For the cooler I got a small cooler off ebay with -6AN inlet and outlet.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00411.jpg

You will also need
1 -6AN weld on fitting
2-10AN weld on fittings

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00409.jpg


Then I decided to be a little cheap and used Summit Racing Push Lok hose and fittings so I got
3 feet of -10AN (5/8ths ID) hose
6 feet of -6 AN (3/8ths ID) hose
2 Straight -10AN push lock fittings
4 90* -6AN push lock fittings

I took the resivor off and had the -6 fitting welded to it (return side, side of the resivor) and the -10 fitting welded on as well (feed side, the bottom of the resivor)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00728.jpg

It should be noted that there is a small filter inside the reservoir I didn’t notice it and it melted :duh:

Then I took the feed fitting off the pump and had the other -10AN fitting welded to it.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00727.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00726.jpg

so the way the system works it as follows….resivor Ã*10line Ã*pump Ã* -6 high pressure P/S line Ã* rack Ã* -6 pushlock hose Ã* P/S cooler Ã* resivor.

All the Earls fittings I used came from ANplumbing.com

And push lock hose and fittings came from SummitRacing.com

Curently i dont have my Cooler mounted yet as i have to find a proper location for it.

THANKS!!!

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah, this thread rocks! Finally a good guide on power steering lines.

[SHIFT_destroy]

assuming that youve driven the car with this, did you notice that your steering is ... well sloppy .. i have an an fitting line setup and there is no resistance in my steering which is ok i suppose but sometimes it feels sloppy and almost feels as if its streering itself

[japslapsilvia]

assuming that youve driven the car with this, did you notice that your steering is ... well sloppy .. i have an an fitting line setup and there is no resistance in my steering which is ok i suppose but sometimes it feels sloppy and almost feels as if its streering itself

no i havent driven my car...yet....but i insalled a similar system in a friends car and he also has a rem-rack. his steering is very crisp. no slop...the problem that your describing would lead me to believe that your rack is worn and seals are most likley oversaturated and begenning to leak.

the only change that is make to the PS system is the removal of the stock cooling loop and replacing it with an extenal cooler. Furthermore it (the cooler) is on the return side and should have no negative effect on the perfomrnace of the system, providing that it is properly filled and bled.

[kalypso123]

very NICE {msg}

[Charlie]

How much did you spend on this setup?

[japslapsilvia]

How much did you spend on this setup?

the high pressure line was roughly $70 with the hose ends, rack fittings and pump fitting.

~$40 for the 4 90* summitracing hose ends (-6AN)

~$12 for the 2 straight summitracing hose ends (-10AN)

~$32 for the -10AN hose...but thats 10feet of it

~$25 for the -6AN hose...but thats 10feet of it

i dont remember how much the weld on fittings were or the cooler.

but overall the complete set-up should be a little less then $250 or so..

[mad-ass]

The problem of no "feel" in steering comes from no flow restriction. there is a way to adjust the amount of flow when you replace all the hardlines with this setup from the pump itself..but that involves in taking apart the pump itself.

Cool write up man!

[japslapsilvia]

The problem of no "feel" in steering comes from no flow restriction. there is a way to adjust the amount of flow when you replace all the hardlines with this setup from the pump itself..but that involves in taking apart the pump itself.

Cool write up man!


good to know...is there a restrictor in the high pressure line???

[conrad_s13.5]

so awesome man!
got this shit saved!

[memphis180sx]

ive been wantin to this to mine lately great write up

[Okinawandrifter87]

Thanks for the write up man! Zilvia needs more of this to revive itself of the old Zilvia. Good job!

[mad-ass]

good to know...is there a restrictor in the high pressure line???
Yup, when it goes from the "soft" pressure line to "hard" pressure line, and also the pressure sensor "acts" as restrictor.

I don't have this baller of a setup, but I do have my high pressure line in newer 7000psi rated hose with cooler for the return side before the reservoir on my S13, and i haven't felt major difference in feel of steering. I just doesn't leak any more or boil. lol

[Om1kron]

I dig it, of course I would go black anotuff. =) I'm digging your setup partner.

[xpertsnowcarver]

Great job.

[japslapsilvia]

Thanks!!! i will try to update this once i get the cooler installed and the lines run. i just need to find a sutable location for it.

I dig it, of course I would go black anotuff. =) I'm digging your setup partner.

i would have LOVED to do all Earls fittings and braided SS lines but that shit adds up soo quickly...

[bllabong89]

Yup, when it goes from the "soft" pressure line to "hard" pressure line, and also the pressure sensor "acts" as restrictor.

I'm not to familiar with power steering set-ups and I'm sorry if this was gone over earlier but where is the pressure sensor located? Is it in-between any lines or in the pump or reservoir? I was just wondering if you removed the sensor or if it remains unchanged?

[japslapsilvia]

I'm not to familiar with power steering set-ups and I'm sorry if this was gone over earlier but where is the pressure sensor located? Is it in-between any lines or in the pump or reservoir? I was just wondering if you removed the sensor or if it remains unchanged?

The sensor is located in the factory High Pressure line and is removed with the AN line. you could incorporate the sensor if u wanted to.

[GenPac]

Push-lock fittings and hose doesn't require clamps... but I understand the psychology of that 'extra measure' for safety. Now that I look at it again, those fittings from summit don't look like true pushlock fittings (don't see the plastic rings) so the clamps in this case are a good idea.

[japslapsilvia]

Push-lock fittings and hose doesn't require clamps... but I understand the psychology of that 'extra measure' for safety. Now that I look at it again, those fittings from summit don't look like true pushlock fittings (don't see the plastic rings) so the clamps in this case are a good idea.

yea sorry i mis-spoke when i said push lock...i believe the term summit racing uses for these are "twist tite".

push locks are generally used for plastic/pcv type hoses...

and on the clamp situation ideally these fitting would use Oetiker clamps but given the fact that there probably wont be a great deal of heat cycling like in an oil cooler or trans cooler worm gears should work out well.. plus its a major pain in the ass to remove the hose from the fitting w/o cutting the hose or rendering it useless...

on the -6AN lines i had to put the hose in boiling water to aid in slipping it on the fitting.

Thanks!

[Johny5]

nice system you got there man! to save you the headache in the future...

POWER STEERING RESERVOIR IMCA CIRCLE TRACK DRAG RACE: eBay Motors (item 380261798472 end time Sep-01-10 18:20:15 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWER-STEERING-RESERVOIR-IMCA-CIRCLE-TRACK-DRAG-RACE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ380261798472QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

[japslapsilvia]

nice system you got there man! to save you the headache in the future...

POWER STEERING RESERVOIR IMCA CIRCLE TRACK DRAG RACE: eBay Motors (item 380261798472 end time Sep-01-10 18:20:15 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWER-STEERING-RESERVOIR-IMCA-CIRCLE-TRACK-DRAG-RACE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ380261798472QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)


THANKS!!!

yea i thought about getting somtihng like that...SummitRacing and Pegasus has some nice ones with fittings already. but it actually ended up cheaper going with the weld on fittings and i didnt have to make a bracket for a custom resivor..i still may end up getting a custom one though...just bc is cool....LOL!!!

[Drift_This]

Sick setup. I want to run this setup minus the cooler for now jus cuz I hate the oem lines.

[duynguyenn240]

one question

on the high pressure hose, do you hand tight the hose end into the hose or you have to have a machine to put them together ?

[codyace]

one question

on the high pressure hose, do you hand tight the hose end into the hose or you have to have a machine to put them together ?

Depends on your hose. On that high pressure hose I've always had them machined crimped, but that's not to say traditional 'DIY' hose ends won't work, as they may work perfeectly fine.


FWIW: THe O/P setup works, as it's the exact same setup that I've had for 3 years now. Nice and simple, yet effective. No more pink milkshake after a HPDE session.

[japslapsilvia]

one question

on the high pressure hose, do you hand tight the hose end into the hose or you have to have a machine to put them together ?

yea the one that i am using is threaded in. very simple to put togather.

Depends on your hose. On that high pressure hose I've always had them machined crimped, but that's not to say traditional 'DIY' hose ends won't work, as they may work perfeectly fine.


FWIW: THe O/P setup works, as it's the exact same setup that I've had for 3 years now. Nice and simple, yet effective. No more pink milkshake after a HPDE session.

absolutly correct!!

often times you can have a highpressure line built very cheaply at a hydrolic (sp) shop, with crimped ends.

[MadScientist]

I have been looking to do this... I also want to do the 2 smaller hardlines on the back of the rack... any info on these???

-Drew

[japslapsilvia]

I have been looking to do this... I also want to do the 2 smaller hardlines on the back of the rack... any info on these???

-Drew

i though about doing those as well but hanvt had the time to look into them. i would assume you would have to use a -3 AN line. and im not sure of the fittings/sizes. off the top of my head i would guess M10 1.0 but im not sure if its and inverted flare, o-ring, or crush washer.

Honestly i wouldnt see any real "benifit" from doing it, unless the hard lines are trash, which in most super low cars it probably is...lol!

[MadScientist]

unless the hard lines are trash, which in most super low cars it probably is...lol!

exactly....

[codyace]

I have been looking to do this... I also want to do the 2 smaller hardlines on the back of the rack... any info on these???

-Drew

I didn't bother with the hardlines on the rack itself...figured they don't leak, and I'll never need to take them off either. Now the metal 'cooling' tube (goes in front of the crossmember) I did delete with the power steering cooler.

Another thing for those doing this:
While the crush washer is meant to be the main seal where the fittings thread into the block, it's not a bad idea to also use some Hydraulic/ATF safe thread sealent there as well.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

I use that on many jobs and never have an issue with them sealing.

[MadScientist]

OK, I just did this with great results... I used Russell Fittings and Power-Flex Stainless Lines. Waiting to do the Resivor to Rack untill I get a new Resivor and possably a Cooler!

The Smaller Lines on the back side are 12x1.0 to 3AN... which I have yet to find!!

-Drew

[29psiHybrid]

Thank you OP, just the info I was about to search for!

[180wanabe1]

OK, I just did this with great results... I used Russell Fittings and Power-Flex Stainless Lines. Waiting to do the Resivor to Rack untill I get a new Resivor and possably a Cooler!

The Smaller Lines on the back side are 12x1.0 to 3AN... which I have yet to find!!

-Drew

earls part number 305-03M121

[MadScientist]

Bringing this back from the dead for great reason.

Makers Racing Power Steering Anti-Foaming Kit !! (http://www.rhdjapan.com/makers-racing-power-steering-anti-foaming-kit-61519)
http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/i/m/image1_7_10.jpg
Looks like an Oil Filter attached to relocation block, but anyway... effective? and I take it this should be on the pressure side?!?

I am litterally about to buy this with a Billion Power Steering Tank!!

-Drew

[Drift_This]

I was thinking about gettin this to start my ps cooler setup

KRC High Volume Power Steering Pump Kit - SR20DET [ 20005000/91510 000 ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication (http://www.enjukuracing.com/high-volume-power-steering-pump-sr20det-p-10482.html)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/Drift_This240/6eba7430.jpg

[travypoo]

i did a canton racing alumn PS res along with braided line and AN fittings with a -6 ps cooler from summit. I have the KRC PS pump pictured above also. it is so much better to make your own cooler kit VS buying pre made kits(CB).

[Prime]

The only thing I hate about the whole AN setup for p/s is the damn hose ends... no one makes steel ends in black, and you're not supposed to use the aluminum ones on the high pressure lines. Don't want chrome or that red/blue either. But oh well. Nice set-up, regardless.

[travypoo]

wonder if it is ok to use the pump -6 male alumn fitting and high pressure rack alumn -6 an fitting with steel female hose ends...seems thats what the orignal poster did.

[Prime]

I think the fittings are fine for whatever reason, but the hose ends aren't. I guess something to do with the pressure needed to keep the hose from slipping would gall the aluminum? Someone more experienced with the concept might know. I was just told "No." by the parts guy. The steel ends were cheaper too, so he wasn't just trying to get extra coin.

[japslapsilvia]

wonder if it is ok to use the pump -6 male alumn fitting and high pressure rack alumn -6 an fitting with steel female hose ends...seems thats what the orignal poster did.

the alum fitting for the pump and rack are fine.

the reason for the steel ends if bc the high pressure hose is differnt from typical braided SS hose.

been running this set-up in a buddys car for quite some time w/o any issues.

[Danial]

What sized AN is on the return hose on the rack side when the hose is about to go up to the reservoir from the rack?
Also, anyone know what the best hose clamps are, there's so many options, looking for screw tightened I think

[thefro526]

What sized AN is on the return hose on the rack side when the hose is about to go up to the reservoir from the rack?
Also, anyone know what the best hose clamps are, there's so many options, looking for screw tightened I think

-6AN (3/8" hose) is what most PS set ups use for the low pressure (rack return) line, assuming that's what you're asking.

OP, thanks for making this thread, it was extremely useful when I was buying my AN lines for my PS setup. Owe you one bro.

[shaggy sr]

nice setup!!! ill do it insread of buying CB parts

[Firestorm]

did anyone else notice that the o-ringed fitting for the return line threads all the way into the rack and doesnt seal at the o-ring?

[OLDSCHOOLRICE]

did anyone else notice that the o-ringed fitting for the return line threads all the way into the rack and doesnt seal at the o-ring?
+1 on this and the outer surface isn't flush so a crush washer won't seal.

What's the solution(other than just thread sealant)?

[PeaceOnesxWai]

+1!!

Good write up, im currently changing almost everything to an lines. How much PSI do you think the PS hoses run? Im using BMRS lines throughout already but their line up only has hoses rated to 500psi


Also more pics with the cooler installed and lines to the rack??

[godzilla_753]

So I went with the op's setup and now my line is leaking at the high pressure fitting going into the rack. Anyone have a solution to this? Its leaking more specifically at the 14mm to -6 adapter, I think its leaking because the threads are so short, only threads in half of what the original hard line there does. Anyone know what I can do to get it to stop leaking?

[Danial]

So I went with the op's setup and now my line is leaking at the high pressure fitting going into the rack. Anyone have a solution to this? Its leaking more specifically at the 14mm to -6 adapter, I think its leaking because the threads are so short, only threads in half of what the original hard line there does. Anyone know what I can do to get it to stop leaking?

I remember I used teflon tape on the threads of my setup, there are lots of thread sealers you could use for a tighter fit

Also make sure that there isn't any pressure being exerted on the fitting, your line shouldn't pull or by tight at all. Try rearranging the geometry of your angled fittings to adjust this

just my 2cents

[godzilla_753]

good suggestion, Ill give it a go, but I went ahead and ordered a 3/8 to -6 adapter just in case, its only 5 bucks from jegs. If the readjusting doesnt work Im going to just put the hardline portion back into the rack, cut the end off and throw on the adapter to -6.

EDIT: crap just realized those fittings are only good to 50psi, the hose sees way more than that I assume...

[godzilla_753]

Since the ps line on a stock s13 goes
RACK-->Hardline-->soft PS hose with sensor-->PS pump

Could I just put the stock hardline back in, convert from hardline to -6 with this and be good to go? (it says its for fuel system only...)

Earl's 9894DBH Earl's Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seals (http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/9894DBH/10002/-1)

That fucking fitting is leaking like a stuck pig, and I dont want to torque it down any harder, Im afraid of stipping the threads. Tried the teflon tape and readjusting the fitting with no luck. The real problem is that the fitting is so short it only threads in half of what the original hardline did, doesn't seal against the tapered inside of the rack.

Shoulda just bought a fucking premade line from chasebays or something. :picardfp:

[Danial]

im confused where the part for "Earl's Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seals" came from in this article

try this
Earl's 991954 Earl's AN to Metric Adapters (http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991954/10002/-1)

looks somewhat different than what you are using, if you need the male to female fitting i am sure that earls makes one for the same thread pitch and AN size

Did you use the crush washer in the correct place? I believe it is between the high pressure fitting into the rack

If you dont have enough threads then you need a different fitting, end of story. Make sure that the next fitting you get has enough threading, and make sure that it looks like what the OP used before you buy it

[godzilla_753]

im confused where the part for "Earl's Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seals" came from in this article

try this
Earl's 991954 Earl's AN to Metric Adapters (http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991954/10002/-1)

looks somewhat different than what you are using, if you need the male to female fitting i am sure that earls makes one for the same thread pitch and AN size

Did you use the crush washer in the correct place? I believe it is between the high pressure fitting into the rack

If you dont have enough threads then you need a different fitting, end of story. Make sure that the next fitting you get has enough threading, and make sure that it looks like what the OP used before you buy it


Yeah I think you are a little confused. I went with the OP identical setup (except the stuff for the reservoir). So everything for the high pressure side is just like the OP's. Im lookin at the pictures of the op's setup and I dont see any washers for the rack side but I guess I can try that. The washer I have goes between the pump and the line..

And the link I listed is for an adapter from the factory hardline coming out of the rack to AN, if you reread my last post you'll see why I listed it.

[Beejis60]

Does anyone have any more feedback about the sloppiness feel? I know Codyace had said his was fine, so I'm curious as to what the other dude a year or so ago did to make his steering response feel like shit.

[Danial]

Yeah I think you are a little confused. I went with the OP identical setup (except the stuff for the reservoir). So everything for the high pressure side is just like the OP's. Im lookin at the pictures of the op's setup and I dont see any washers for the rack side but I guess I can try that. The washer I have goes between the pump and the line..

And the link I listed is for an adapter from the factory hardline coming out of the rack to AN, if you reread my last post you'll see why I listed it.

Ahhh, that does make more sense. To go back to the factory hardline what I ended up doing was using a piece of power steering hose I got from Earls (other kinds of hose will fall apart and clog your ps pump). I cut the hardline just past the fitting, smoothed the edges of the cut, and worked the hose over the end of the hardline about 3 or 4 inches. Then I used 2 screw style clamps on the line and didnt have any leaks. To connect it to the rest of the system I believe I used fittings as the OP did. I didnt have any leaks from the clamped section

Does anyone have any more feedback about the sloppiness feel? I know Codyace had said his was fine, so I'm curious as to what the other dude a year or so ago did to make his steering response feel like shit.

There shouldnt be any sloppiness as long as the cooler is on your low pressure line and you don't run an obnoxious length of high pressure line. The greater volume of fluid in the high pressure line, the harder the pump has to work to compress it to the same pressure and transfer that pressure to the rack.
Also, leaks will result in a sloppy feeling as there are varying pressures assisting your turning of the wheel.
My steering was sloppy at one point because the steering column wasn't connected to the rack as tightly as it could have been :picardfp:

[slw240sx]

I have run into a few racks that leak using the earls fitting. My solution was to put another earls or other brand part to seal. They are called STAT O Seals. They are aluminum washers with a bonded rubber o ring on the ID of the washer. they are used to seal where crusher washer wont quite work.

[Skilz10179]

Anyone using the Chase Bays kit? I've had it sitting here for about 6 months but had too many other projects going on to install it. It doesn't come with a cooler but it would be very simple to add one...

Chase Bays Power Steering Kit for Nissan 240sx - Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com (http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/chase-bays-products/chase-bays-power-steering-kit-for-nissan-240sx)

[Beejis60]

There shouldnt be any sloppiness as long as the cooler is on your low pressure line and you don't run an obnoxious length of high pressure line. The greater volume of fluid in the high pressure line, the harder the pump has to work to compress it to the same pressure and transfer that pressure to the rack.

Well ya, that's common sense. If anyone ran that on the high pressure side then of course it would suck. Maybe the initial report the dude had effed up something.

Also, leaks will result in a sloppy feeling as there are varying pressures assisting your turning of the wheel.

Well, again, common sense.

Anyone using the Chase Bays kit? I've had it sitting here for about 6 months but had too many other projects going on to install it. It doesn't come with a cooler but it would be very simple to add one...


250 bones for THAT? Looks like he's probably making at least 50% profit.

[Skilz10179]

250 bones for THAT? Looks like he's probably making at least 50% profit.

The OP claims to have over $250 into his pieced together set up not counting the cooler.

[godzilla_753]

ill be honest, this is my first go at working with AN stuff and not very impressed with my setup currently. Maybe it has to do with inexperience but as far as high pressure stuff goes, the steel fittings for the highpressure line could easily loosen over time, I mean after torquing it down, with a little bit of pressure I could still rotate the steel fitting off the earls fitting (where it meets the pump).

I ended up using a liquid gel sealent to get the lines to stop leaking. My recommendation..go with something premade thats got nice crimped on fittings...especially for something thats high pressure, no chance of it coming apart from vibrations or a accidental bump.

[NismoPlsr]

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.

^Yes those look longer than what I have. The brass one looks right. Thanks Firestorm for the link

I'm going to give these fittings a try and will update what happens...
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/FLA-FRM14X6AN.jpg
Flaming River FRM14X6AN - Flaming River Power Steering Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FRM14X6AN/)

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/AAF-ALL48211.jpg
Allstar Performance ALL48211 - Allstar Performance Power Steering Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL48211/)

If theres any other solutions PLEASE contribute

Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523-power-steering-fittings-leaking.html

[Beejis60]

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.



Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523-power-steering-fittings-leaking.html

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

[Danial]

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

[Beejis60]

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

Well, my measurement of the OEM fitting was from the seat to the hex head; after threading in my OEM fitting again last night to measure the total thread depth and not total fitting length, it appears to be just around .800 to .820 on the high pressure side. One MAY be able to use the Flaming River fitting if they ran a die over it to thread all the way up to the hex head.
As for weld-ons, Earls has alum, steel, and stainless; OEM box is steel. Additionally, the steel weld-on bung is only $4. I would weld it in a glove bag back-purged with argon though, just in case.

[Danial]

^^ Excellent info, +1

if someone tries it please post up your results, i'd love to see it

[Mr.J]

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

[Beejis60]

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

Though there is certainly nothing wrong with this approach, it is easier said than done. To remove it to be 100% flush, or even close to that, you will need to set it in a vise, whether for machining or for hand-grinding; and there is no good surface to clamp to for using a mill. You may be able to clamp on to the outlet/inlet ports that feed to the crossover, but then, you will need to remove material by hand since it will be out of tram with the mill.

[Mr.J]

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.



Steering rack, fittings for power steering

http://cs316729.userapi.com/v316729324/5d/BYZ3lheeMhE.jpg

[onehundredoctane]

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

[Mr.J]

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

Unfortunately, there was no info given on these fittings in the post (http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/444864-s15-moscow-ls376-480-a-2.html#post4647997). Maybe you could reach out to the OP for more info.

[Beejis60]

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.

Looks like they milled the face off quite a bit, likely to get that banjo to work. I've never seen a very long banjo bolt to fit this application, though I did not really look too closely. I still see a copper crush washer, which I do not trust and banjos will never seat in the PS box properly. Moreover, I wouldn't trust to use thread dope or thread sealant since that's a banjo fitting.... Basically, your sealing comes from a crush washer. No thanks

[Beejis60]

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0049-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0051.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0056.jpg

[ill.]

Those fittings look like they'll work well. That might be what I have to do haha.

What does everyone do for the high pressure pump outlet?

[Beejis60]

Those fittings look like they'll work well. That might be what I have to do haha.

What does everyone do for the high pressure pump outlet?

That last pic is the high pressure outlet on my pump, just note that I have an LS2.

[nyc240sx]

if anyone needs a custom fitting an flange for the rb25 powersteering reservoir to feed on pump i can have that fitting made for you $45 shipped. Its a flange with a -10an fitting machined

[ov1989]

subscribe.

[NismoPlsr]

if anyone needs a custom fitting an flange for the rb25 powersteering reservoir to feed on pump i can have that fitting made for you $45 shipped. Its a flange with a -10an fitting machined

Any pictures of this? I am interested.

[2iv0 sx]

Seems like bc. made his own lines retaining the stock fittings..

Got my line done. It deletes any need for a banjo fitting.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/btc1020/IMG_20130606_175302_zpsf0f6b841.jpg

This was the original banjo stud that came out of the pump. It was cut in half to remove the stock banjo connection but will retain all functionality of the pressure reducing assembly inside the pump.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/btc1020/IMG_20130606_175330_zpsc8386fec.jpg

Here is the side that goes into the rack. All 'welded' connections were actually done with silver solder.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/btc1020/IMG_20130606_175342_zpsdb23528c.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/btc1020/IMG_20130606_175356_zps3e506fc4.jpg

Sorry the last pic is blurry, but you get the idea. The hardline was cut and soldered to a hose barb. The o-rings were also replaced.

[japslapsilvia]

Dam i forgot about this thread!!
for the rack side high-pressure fitting
i ended up having a custom fitting made out of brass for this, basically i copied the dimensions of the hard line on one end and a -6AN on the other, i will try to get pics when i get home.

[Seraphim38]

pirtek makes custom lines to specification for cheap, and they will never leak. My whole oil relocation and boost/vacuum lines were all made by pirtek. I only have one hose under the hood with a clamp on it (other than intercooler piping and radiator hoses).

[SupaDoopa]

I used a Nissan Titan setup for a while. Worked flawlessly and not too much modifications needed. I wish I saved some pictures somewhere. I may roll with this when I finish my next car, doe.

[japslapsilvia]

Its a little longer then it should be...but works flawlessly
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/20130607_193529_zps48238ece.jpg

[DET240SX]

Subscribed

[reeskm]

Damn epic stuff. I'm going to be pluming in a B&M supercooler (72005 model) for my p/s coolant. Not gonna run AN lines at the moment. I'm too lazy :D

But, this really helped me figure out how to run my cooler!

Anybody have any concerns that most aftermarket coolers and AN-6 lines are ~8.75 mm (3/8") and the Nissan uses metric lines? The low pressure return to resevoir nipple measures in a 9.75mm on my car, and it's a bit of a snug fit for a 3/8" ID hose.

[rbs14kouki]

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0049-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0051.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/Beejis69/IMAG0056.jpg

Somebody as a link to where i could get those fueled racing fitingor the fragola and i would turn them on the lathe my self.

I Just cant find one long enough !?!?

[Beejis60]

They're just fragola PS fittings. Get the right sized metrics, I think M14 and M16. That's it.

[NismoPlsr]

Here are the Allstar part numbers.

Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 14mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare
ALL48211

Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 16mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare
ALL48210

After a few minutes on the lathe.

http://i.imgur.com/LNYVAVD.jpg

[Beejis60]

Nice. I know the allstar stuff was closer to OEM length than any other fitting.

[rbs14kouki]

Thanks alot NismoPlsr

[Trap Star]

The problem of no "feel" in steering comes from no flow restriction. there is a way to adjust the amount of flow when you replace all the hardlines with this setup from the pump itself..but that involves in taking apart the pump itself.

Cool write up man!

Any links to what/how to adjust the flow with the pump? I have 1 or 2 extra power steering pumps lying around and would like to try it.

[Beejis60]

Any links to what/how to adjust the flow with the pump? I have 1 or 2 extra power steering pumps lying around and would like to try it.

You can shim the pump or put in a flow restrictor.... The problem with restrictors is that they're a set amount and you have to hope they restrict flow just enough; if they're too big then you just wasted $30-50. Too small then you can at least bore it with a drill bit.
Or you can put in a variable pressure regulator but those run around $250 iirc.

[Options13]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985

would that be okay to use as the power steering line? or is it too thin. IF too thin what if you get a little bigger of a hose in the same stuff, will it work?

[Beejis60]

The line should be fine but IDK about the teflon fittings under PS pressure. However, you ought to use PS hose with PS fittings (links respectively below as examples)

AN Power Steering Hose | ANplumbing.com (http://www.anplumbing.com/Hose/Power+Steering-46.html)
AN Power Steering Hose Ends | ANplumbing.com (http://www.anplumbing.com/Hose+Ends/Power+Steering-37.html)

[Options13]

my main dilema is trying to find a line that is either black or braided with steel. The blue line from earls won't match anything in my engine bay. lol

[Beejis60]

A. There's more than just earls in that link provided. XRP makes black PS line, which is what I have.
or 2. buy foiled mylar sleeve for the hose to hide the "awful" blue color

and lastly, D. Who cares about color coordination?

[BiG MiKE86]

and lastly, D. Who cares about color coordination?

lOOk at this mans build thread before you ask silly questions..

[thefro526]

my main dilema is trying to find a line that is either black or braided with steel. The blue line from earls won't match anything in my engine bay. lol

I have black PS line with Earl's PS Fittings - I believe it's XRP since I bought it from anplumbing.com. Technically you're not supposed to run fittings with hose from a different manufacturer, but in the case of XRP and Earls, you can get away with it when using Pro-Lite and Power-steering hose (no idea about stainless braided.)



and lastly, D. Who cares about color coordination?

Color Coordination is everything.

Seriously though, I despise Red/Blue AN fittings with a passion, along with stainless braided hose. Adds a bunch of extra colors to the engine bay that don't really need to be there. Black Fittings and Hose (stainless fittings are cool too, when needed) are an awesome way to 'hide' all of the lines required to make stuff work.

[Beejis60]

lOOk at this mans build thread before you ask silly questions..

I've more important things to do. If he's doing a magazine build, then fine, I get it. Anything else, there really is no point unless you've got OCD to the max. No one will be looking under your hood or under your car that often.

I have black PS line with Earl's PS Fittings - I believe it's XRP since I bought it from anplumbing.com. Technically you're not supposed to run fittings with hose from a different manufacturer, but in the case of XRP and Earls, you can get away with it when using Pro-Lite and Power-steering hose (no idea about stainless braided.)

Umm, are you saying here that you used Earls prolite hose for PS? I hope not the high pressure side as its max operation pressure is sub-500psi iirc and the PS fittings won't even fit due to the inner hose thickness.

You can run the appropriate fitting to the style of hose in some cases especially with the rubber-based hoses with their fitting equivalents, i.e. swivel seal fittings with XR31 hose or the ti-tech fittings with the prolite hose. I've mixed and matched those all before as they're essentially all the same, but the inner bores vary, with XRP claiming they have the biggest bore over any other AN fitting company which obvious leads to better flow.

Color Coordination is everything.Maybe if you're a girl or doing a mag build... I understand the appeal of having everything all in one color, but sometimes it's just not an option and you have to deal with that. With my fuel lines, some are 100% blue, most are 100% black. I couldn't get some unions in black and I absolutely had to go with the blue ones, but since they're under the car, I'm not fretting too much about it.

[BiG MiKE86]

[QUOTE=Beejis60;5417141]I've more important things to do. If he's doing a magazine build, then fine, I get it. Anything else, there really is no point unless you've got OCD to the max. No one will be looking under your hood or under your car that often./QUOTE]

If your driving a KA or some junk like that I'd understand... but im sure this hood will be popped more often than not

Here ya go ;)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/IMG_7265_zpsd0194544.jpg

[Beejis60]

If your driving a KA or some junk like that I'd understand... but im sure this hood will be popped more often than not

With a log style turbo mani?
Anyway, I have a 500+ rwhp LS2 with plenty of goodies. I still don't care to 'show off' but his does look good and very clean.

[thefro526]

Umm, are you saying here that you used Earls prolite hose for PS? I hope not the high pressure side as its max operation pressure is sub-500psi iirc and the PS fittings won't even fit due to the inner hose thickness.

You can run the appropriate fitting to the style of hose in some cases especially with the rubber-based hoses with their fitting equivalents, i.e. swivel seal fittings with XR31 hose or the ti-tech fittings with the prolite hose. I've mixed and matched those all before as they're essentially all the same, but the inner bores vary, with XRP claiming they have the biggest bore over any other AN fitting company which obvious leads to better flow.



My bad, I should have made my previous post more clear.

In the case of Earls Power Steering ends, I've used both XRP and Earls hose and both worked fine, with the only difference being the color.

I've also done the same thing with XRP and Earls fittings on Earls prolite hose.

Also, the prolite hose is used only on the low pressure line, with the high pressure line being XRP Power Steering Hose. For anyone looking into doing a similar setup, the XRP hose and Prolite are different shades of black (if that makes any sense) and the weave density is noticeably different.


Maybe if you're a girl or doing a mag build... I understand the appeal of having everything all in one color, but sometimes it's just not an option and you have to deal with that. With my fuel lines, some are 100% blue, most are 100% black. I couldn't get some unions in black and I absolutely had to go with the blue ones, but since they're under the car, I'm not fretting too much about it.

In my case, it's more of a 'do it right the first time' thing. It's not all that difficult to plumb everything using black fittings - as long as you're willing to look around for some of the weirder ones - although there are a handful of adapters and stuff that can't be found in black, but can be found in raw aluminum or clear anno. One of the neat side effects of doing a system in all black was that it sort of makes the lines 'disappear' in a black engine bay. Not that they're not clearly visible, more that they don't catch your eye.

For reference, the lines are obviously missing in this shot, but it should shed some light on what I'm talking about.

http://thefro526.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_31951.jpg?w=650

[Beejis60]

I generally HATE black engine bays, but the matte looks really good here and mates well with the teal-like vc. I think the only thing that would work with that is anything but black as it's too glossy IMO; ya the red/blue are very popular and may look kinda clashy in your bay, but you could go with all stainless, nickel, or the ti-tech XRP fittings as they have a matte look to them. The PS fitting may look out of place if you had all ti-tech fittings but it seems the PS pump is kinda down and outta the way on that, is it not? I know nothing about those motors...

[japslapsilvia]

I've more important things to do. If he's doing a magazine build, then fine, I get it. Anything else, there really is no point unless you've got OCD to the max. No one will be looking under your hood or under your car that often.


Its def. not a Magazine Build, i am just taking pride in what i do and don't want to make it look like a pile of pieced together shit , although as it currently sits is does look like a pile of shit LOL

[Beejis60]

Ya, there's one thing between doing it right, ghetto rigging, and doing it clean.

[5280VertDET]

Hey guys,

Been studying this set up and other on other forums and have just ordered this set up. I was originally going to go with the Chase Bays kit, but it I had been waiting for it since August. :fawk2: Enjuku was nice and refunded me. :kiss:

So I made my own. Here's the parts list and my "diagram": Total Cost from ANPlumbing.com - $142.00 Shipped
http://i.imgur.com/7Erl1sN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ClYleUn.jpg

I just placed the order and have not install it yet, but I just wanted to say thanks to every one in this thread. One benefit to this system is no welding skills are required. I hope to post a install and long term update. Stay tuned!

PS: If anyone see's anything wrong that wouldn't allow this to work; please PM or comment.

[yetijeff]

A lot of good info in this thread... One question tho would the sizes be the same on the ps pump fitting for a sohc ka pump?

[NismoPlsr]

Hey guys,

Been studying this set up and other on other forums and have just ordered this set up. I was originally going to go with the Chase Bays kit, but it I had been waiting for it since August. :fawk2: Enjuku was nice and refunded me. :kiss:

So I made my own. Here's the parts list and my "diagram": Total Cost from ANPlumbing.com - $142.00 Shipped
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7Erl1sN.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ClYleUn.jpg[IMG]

I just placed the order and have not install it yet, but I just wanted to say thanks to every one in this thread. One benefit to this system is no welding skills are required. I hope to post a install and long term update. Stay tuned!

PS: If anyone see's anything wrong that wouldn't allow this to work; please PM or comment.

The only potential problem I see with your setup is the rack fittings. You may get lucky and have the crush washers seal well enough so you don't have any leaks but the o-rings won't seal and that is the OEM design.

Try it out but you might have to ditch the washers on the rack and machine the fittings so you get the proper seal at the o-ring.

Good luck.

[5280VertDET]

The only potential problem I see with your setup is the rack fittings. You may get lucky and have the crush washers seal well enough so you don't have any leaks but the o-rings won't seal and that is the OEM design.

Try it out but you might have to ditch the washers on the rack and machine the fittings so you get the proper seal at the o-ring.

Good luck.

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

[yetijeff]

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

From what I can tell from reading this whole thing, NO. U have to machine down the fitting because the hex head is too thick making the shank of the fitting to short and not allowing the oring to mate with the sealing surface of the rack

[Beejis60]

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?
Ignore everything in this thread except for what I've posted...

and Yetijeff since he can read.

[5280VertDET]

Ignore everything in this thread except for what I've posted...

and Yetijeff since he can read.

Well, fuck. I read that but somehow thought that it was fittings from another supplier that had the issues and earls worked fine. Guess I'll find some to machine these down...

[ill.]

I got sick of my rack adapters weeping P/S fluid, so used this as a quick fix on the dyno.

http://www.purefjcruiser.com/images/thread-sealant.jpg

Rated to 2000psi (same as most P/S high pressure hose), haven't had any problems in the 2000km/1200miles I've driven since then.

[5280VertDET]

I got sick of my rack adapters weeping P/S fluid, so used this as a quick fix on the dyno.



Rated to 2000psi (same as most P/S high pressure hose), haven't had any problems in the 2000km/1200miles I've driven since then.

They also make this:

Thread Sealants : Permatex®Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-pneumatic-hydraulic-sealant-detail)

I wonder if it may work better, but I wonder if temperatures would affect it.

[Beejis60]

They also make this:

Thread Sealants : Permatex®Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-pneumatic-hydraulic-sealant-detail)

I wonder if it may work better, but I wonder if temperatures would affect it.

This pneumatic stuff is what you want, however the price is borderline rape. The high temp stuff is a gamble and if you're a drifter going lock to lock a lot, I wouldn't gamble.

[5280VertDET]

This pneumatic stuff is what you want, however the price is borderline rape. The high temp stuff is a gamble and if you're a drifter going lock to lock a lot, I wouldn't gamble.

Haha, Right!?!? Fuck man, its cheaper on Amazon but CHRIST! :bs:

AMAZON LINK (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-54540-Pneumatic-Hydraulic-Sealant/dp/B000HBGL14) $21

Also, the 54540 only works up to 300* F vesus the 59214 is 400*F; both rated at 10,000 PSI

Source:
59214 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CFQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D59214.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=FDeeUsB-wqbJAZ-WgIAK&usg=AFQjCNGq6J0HYmgMMrjWkuyvrz7JQOz89w&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

54540 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CFIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D54540.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=dzeeUrvbA8a2yAHA-4HIAQ&usg=AFQjCNHZWwu17bmvNGC_XutWxHf6NqI3iQ&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

[Beejis60]

Haha, Right!?!? Fuck man, its cheaper on Amazon but CHRIST!

AMAZON LINK (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-54540-Pneumatic-Hydraulic-Sealant/dp/B000HBGL14) $21

Also, the 54540 only works up to 300* F vesus the 59214 is 400*F; both rated at 10,000 PSI

Source:
59214 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CFQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D59214.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=FDeeUsB-wqbJAZ-WgIAK&usg=AFQjCNGq6J0HYmgMMrjWkuyvrz7JQOz89w&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

54540 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CFIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D54540.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=dzeeUrvbA8a2yAHA-4HIAQ&usg=AFQjCNHZWwu17bmvNGC_XutWxHf6NqI3iQ&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

I honestly never looked at the MSDS/tech sheets of both but I knew the pneumatic shit was 10k... But even the high temp stuff has a higher breakaway torque. It seems to me that the high-temp stuff is in fact your best bet when in doubt. Thanks for the info; knowing is half the battle.

[Busta]

Solution we cooked up after running into the "threaded section too short" on the aluminum russell fittings we ordered was to re-use both oem fittings on the Factory hardlines. I kept both tube ends on the rack side, cut the tubes 1/16 longer than the fitting itself, got the tube ends out of the fitting and chamfered that end of the fitting. I then put the tubes back in their respective fittings and flared the tube into the fittting giving me something to work with now. I filled up that end of the fittings flat, chamfered both hex corners where they'd meet (for proper penetration) and tig welded me some steel an -6 fittings back to back with these ones. Total cost to me was 12$ for the two an fittings and time. I really wish I had some picture of what I did for details guys would have been simpler to explain. Running flawless for many years now

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Ill just add this for those who want to make a full AN power steering set up for half the price. You will need a know someone with a TIG welder, you may be able to get away with a MIG.


First off, take off your PS hardlines from the rack.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g25/aznnoodleboi/photo1_zps03bb17c5.jpg

Next, take a cutting wheel or angle grinder and cut off the ends of the hardline like so. Make sure you have an inch or more at the end of the tube and nut.
Clean the shavings that would be in between the tube and outside with sand paper. You will have to clean the tube till its flat and raw material because its going to get welded later. I sanded till the tube easily fell out the nut.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g25/aznnoodleboi/photo3_zps08ddba89.jpg

Next purchase x2 "STEEL" AN-6 weld-on Bungs and take it to your welder. This can be done with a MIG welder as it is steel.
They should cost $2 each, which is a mere 5% of what you would pay for the 2 AN adapters which would probably leak on you.

Have your welder weld the bung to the tube from the outside. Make sure you take off the plastic o-rings on the nut before you weld them, they will melt on there.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g25/aznnoodleboi/photo4_zps62911b42.jpg

Now you have a power steering rack AN adapter that is OEM reliable. This is 95% of why PS systems leak.. because the AN Adapter being to short inside the rack. I wish i had a pic to compare my OEM AN adapter vs a AN adapter but I can guarantee the AN is half as short.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g25/aznnoodleboi/photo5_zps89f61d42.jpg

After that you got the hard part done, you just need to get the high pressure line made, feed line, and reservoir.


For Pump feed adapter, you can :

1. Go with OP and purchase - Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
or 2. purchase another Steel AN-6 Bung and have your welder weld on the high pressure feed side.


The Reservoir leaves you with 2 choices:

1. Purchase a new PS reservoir like I did. eBay $27
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91032876_L.jpg

or 2. Purchase x2 AN-6 Aluminum weld-on bungs and x1 AN-10 Aluminum weld-on bungs and follow the method done by OP. This will require you to have someone with a TIG welder. This will leave you with just the AN-10 line to purchase.


The oil feed port :

1. If you have a TIG welder, follow OPs method.

2. If you do not have a TIG welder, purchase a AN-10 Female to Barb fitting for the aluminum reservoir above. Then just use the original rubber feed hose, its just a feed line so no need for it to be AN fitted.


Hoses :

For the High pressure hose, in most cities, there should be a hose shop around your neighborhood that makes these sort of line. In Socal, we have HoseMan all over. Just go in and have them make you a AN-6 to AN-6 High pressure line in steel braided material. This should cost around $40.

The return hose from rack to reservoir. Look online like forum and eBay, you just need about 2 feet long, its a -6AN to -6AN. Return hose does not need to be high pressure, regular kevlar braided is fine.

Oil feed line, its a AN10 to AN10, again look online. This one is super cheap because its a oil return line for turbos.


Hope this helps

[Busta]

Thanks man, pictures explain it all better. Only difference is the ones i've done have the tubes flared into a chamfer that's made into the fitting at the hex side to secure i to the fitting,then both ends are filled flat and welded toghether with two passes. And yes MIG works if done correctly. The ps resevoir on mine was relocated on a bracket by the radiator L/H side with fittings welded to it, gets it away from the exhaust manifolds and this all fixes the pump feed line leaking problems that these cars develop enventually with all new teflon braided ss hoses. Oh by the way I forgot to say that mine was also relocated to the a/c compressor area to give space for turbo piping "up there"

[Beejis60]

Ill just add this for those who want to make a full AN power steering set up for half the price. You will need a know someone with a TIG welder, you may be able to get away with a MIG.

s

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

[Busta]

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

I've had absolutely no problems with the rack or anything else doing this on cars that get used and abused A LOT, working flawlessly. I cant see what it could change pressure wise. The guys to whom the racks have blown must not of been using the oem bolt on the ps pump banjo fitting, if I remember correctly it has built in regulator valve (special bolt)

[Beejis60]

I've had absolutely no problems with the rack or anything else doing this on cars that get used and abused A LOT, working flawlessly. I cant see what it could change pressure wise. The guys to whom the racks have blown must not of been using the oem bolt on the ps pump banjo fitting, if I remember correctly it has built in regulator valve (special bolt)

Ya, IDK... They're all engineers and shit on that board so I would imagine they knew about the regulator on the banjo bolt. But that's just my speculation.

[xoxide]

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

[5280VertDET]

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

I don't plan on getting the fluid hot enough. No heavy driving, maybe spirited back roads, but thats it.

SMALL UPDATE:

I haven't installed it yet, but the "Econo-Fits" for the PS lines, to small to fit around the hose that it claims. Shitty.

[codyace]

The way PeaceOnesxWai is actually pretty slick, and I kick myself for not thinking of doing it that way myself.

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

If you weld directly to the rack's upper housing, you'll melt the upper seal. If you take the upper housing off, and then remove the upper seal, you ruin it...and no one sells a replacement seal for it.

...i'm no engineer, I'm a slop!

[Beejis60]

If you weld directly to the rack's upper housing, you'll melt the upper seal. If you take the upper housing off, and then remove the upper seal, you ruin it...and no one sells a replacement seal for it.

...i'm no engineer, I'm a slop!

:wackit:






And there it is.

[Busta]

Yep, just like Cody said. You can't weld a fitting the rack n pinion upper housing without disassembling it, decontaminating the fuck out of it and good luck finding that seal. You have to tig it witch isn't as accessible to everybody and I do trust steel fittings much more for AN(JIC) high pressure stuff. The best would be if you are one or are friends with a machinist, you could get both fittings machined completely from scratch in one piece with proper specs. That just wasn't an option anymore without spending big bucks to have it done by the crooks around here. Peaceone's solution and mine are almost the same, but I prefer to not weld on the pipe itself

[180sxs13]

sorry to wake up dead. :)

can someone confirm if i can do this nice setup and cancel the pressure restriction (factory banjo fitting) ??

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Woah havent been in this thread for awhile now..

Thanks man, pictures explain it all better. Only difference is the ones i've done have the tubes flared into a chamfer that's made into the fitting at the hex side to secure i to the fitting,then both ends are filled flat and welded toghether with two passes. And yes MIG works if done correctly. The ps resevoir on mine was relocated on a bracket by the radiator L/H side with fittings welded to it, gets it away from the exhaust manifolds and this all fixes the pump feed line leaking problems that these cars develop enventually with all new teflon braided ss hoses. Oh by the way I forgot to say that mine was also relocated to the a/c compressor area to give space for turbo piping "up there"

I used flare tube nut for fuel lines before, its a pain and the tube usually cracks when you reach around -6AN.. so im a little iffy on doing that method. Plus it wouldnt be a smart idea to weld a fuel line :doh:
I chose to do the weld-on cause 1. its realiable and 2. its cheap.

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

I am running one but for the time i was doing my guide I hadnt order it yet. But for concerns, I would be perfectly fine without the cooler on DDs and light spirit driving. Im confident my AN line set up could handle alot more then DOHC PS line so I have no worries about it blowing.

sorry to wake up dead. :)

can someone confirm if i can do this nice setup and cancel the pressure restriction (factory banjo fitting) ??

Specify "cancel the pressure restriction"? Like removing the banjo bolt and adding AN fittings?

[180sxs13]

Sorry. was little off (didn't get noticed) !.
Anyway, yes deleting the banjo and the built in regulator valve as guys call it.

[silviaNC]

I have black PS line with Earl's PS Fittings - I believe it's XRP since I bought it from anplumbing.com. Technically you're not supposed to run fittings with hose from a different manufacturer, but in the case of XRP and Earls, you can get away with it when using Pro-Lite and Power-steering hose (no idea about stainless braided.)



Color Coordination is everything.

Seriously though, I despise Red/Blue AN fittings with a passion, along with stainless braided hose. Adds a bunch of extra colors to the engine bay that don't really need to be there. Black Fittings and Hose (stainless fittings are cool too, when needed) are an awesome way to 'hide' all of the lines required to make stuff work.

I bought the xrp ps hose and earls ps fitting and having a hell of a time and bruced hands trying to put fittings on the hose. Seems almost imposssible. Any easy way to install the fittings? thanks for help?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[dhnedgj]

http://finanziellede.de/hu6g.jpg Sick setup. I want to run this setup minus the cooler for now jus cuz I hate the oem lines.

[Beejis60]

I bought the xrp ps hose and earls ps fitting and having a hell of a time and bruced hands trying to put fittings on the hose. Seems almost imposssible. Any easy way to install the fittings? thanks for help?

You cannot use earls PS hose ends on XRP hose.

[silviaNC]

You cannot use earls PS hose ends on XRP hose.

Oh well return time. Just ordered the xpr fittings.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Beejis60]

Oh well return time. Just ordered the xpr fittings.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

XRP is good shit. IDK what type of hose ends are for their PS lines, but they have a lot of crimped style fittings, aka you need to buy the tools (numerous thousands of dollars), or send them to XRP to have them crimp it for you, or if you order, you can specify the length and they'll make it for you so you don't have to double handle everything...

That is if it's a crimp end.

[silviaNC]

Had to take xrp hose and end fittings to a shop to get them in. Here is my setup almost completehttp://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae219/gsxr750_photo/20140624_170239_zps013c9548.jpg

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Beejis60]

Had to take xrp hose and end fittings to a shop to get them in. Here is my setup almost complete

Looks like you have an LS swap? If so, who made your high-pressure line?

[silviaNC]

Looks like you have an LS swap? If so, who made your high-pressure line?
Is an rb26 and bought xrp high pressure hose and fittings as i stated on post. Low pressure and return are pro lite nylon hose

[Beejis60]

Is an rb26 and bought xrp high pressure hose and fittings as i stated on post. Low pressure and return are pro lite nylon hose
I don't check old posts, but ya, looks good. Looks similar to an LS swap PS line I've seen before and being that your pan looked like a sikky pan, I just assumed...

[InsTanCeZ]

I hurd Z33 PS cooler is pretty much a bolt in affair. Anyone have more info on this?

[Beejis60]

I hurd Z33 PS cooler is pretty much a bolt in affair. Anyone have more info on this?
IDK what you mean by bolt on affair. It looks like any el cheapo shitty cooler you can buy at like vato zone and napa. I bought a cheap aluminum finned afco one from speedway. Easy peasy.

[abcdefg123]

Updates to this thread? New pictures?

[*brett*]

does anyone know the size of the tube coming out of the rack? i dont have access to a welder but i see they make a flare fitting adapter that might work

[Martino]

Might be resurrecting a dead question but I've noticed my power steering isn't necessarily the quickest anymore since AN lines and cooler.

Once I'm rolling everything is fine, but if I try to make a really sharp movement I feel a very slight bit of restriction and than everything is smooth.

When the car is idle it's hard as shit to turn sometimes.

Any solutions or ideas to this?

[turbo2nr]

Sorry to bump an old thread...

I have the ISIS ps kit and my fitting on the rack leaks.

I've looked through this thread and cant find an exact link to the fitting i need to go into the rack.

this is the fitting in question:
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l168/2iv0sx/Leakps2.jpg

will this fitting work? :
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991954/10002/-1

if not can someone please link me to the fitting I need.

Thanks

[slow92]

It is one of these two but I can't remember which goes to which off the top of my head. Obviously if you are running a larger AN hose than you would just need to find the correct part number for the it along with the correct thread pitch for the rack.

Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
Rack Return 16x1.5 O ringed to -6AN 991955ERL

[turbo2nr]

Thanks its my High side fitting that is leaking.

Is the earl's fitting long enough seal correctly in the rack. As in the previous pages was saying something about the fittings being to short or something.

[driver11324]

Thanks its my High side fitting that is leaking.

Is the earl's fitting long enough seal correctly in the rack. As in the previous pages was saying something about the fittings being to short or something.

Cant stop the Dway

[5280VertDET]

I got sick of my rack adapters weeping P/S fluid, so used this as a quick fix on the dyno.

http://www.purefjcruiser.com/images/thread-sealant.jpg

Rated to 2000psi (same as most P/S high pressure hose), haven't had any problems in the 2000km/1200miles I've driven since then.

Haha, Right!?!? Fuck man, its cheaper on Amazon but CHRIST! :bs:

AMAZON LINK (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-54540-Pneumatic-Hydraulic-Sealant/dp/B000HBGL14) $21

Also, the 54540 only works up to 300* F vesus the 59214 is 400*F; both rated at 10,000 PSI

Source:
59214 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CFQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D59214.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=FDeeUsB-wqbJAZ-WgIAK&usg=AFQjCNGq6J0HYmgMMrjWkuyvrz7JQOz89w&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

54540 PDF Downloads (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CFIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdo cuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename% 3D54540.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&ei=dzeeUrvbA8a2yAHA-4HIAQ&usg=AFQjCNHZWwu17bmvNGC_XutWxHf6NqI3iQ&bvm=bv.57155469,d.aWc)

Sorry to bump an old thread...

I have the ISIS ps kit and my fitting on the rack leaks.

I've looked through this thread and cant find an exact link to the fitting i need to go into the rack.

this is the fitting in question:
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l168/2iv0sx/Leakps2.jpg

will this fitting work? :
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991954/10002/-1

if not can someone please link me to the fitting I need.

Thanks
Page back or so, had this for over a year with no leaks.

[PoorMans180SX]

Might be resurrecting a dead question but I've noticed my power steering isn't necessarily the quickest anymore since AN lines and cooler.

Once I'm rolling everything is fine, but if I try to make a really sharp movement I feel a very slight bit of restriction and than everything is smooth.

When the car is idle it's hard as shit to turn sometimes.

Any solutions or ideas to this?

This is called "pump catch", and it's usually caused by not enough flow from the pump during movements that need it (such as quick movements or fast transitions). I've been trying to dial this out for a while now. I have a restrictor in my KA pump that is working perfectly with the giant reservoir I have, but I have yet to install my cooler, so I'm not sure how that affects things. It's a pain haha.

Are you still running the banjo bolt and cast outlet on your pump? That has a built in restrictor that you may need to remove with a decent size cooler. There are -6 adapters for that if you need ALL the flow, or restrictors of various sizes. You basically have to experiment haha.

For everyone else: I've been using a standard steel adapter fitting in my high pressure side with no leaks for a while now. No sealant, just tightened it good and tight...

[joshchewuhh]

Okay so I recently upgraded my entire PS system and I wanted to revise the parts list as the parts in the OP didn't work for me.

Little back round about my car: Completely stock KA24DE with all emissions attached, OEM airbox, silvia front end. I wanted to upgrade my PS system because the fluid would boil over super quick and make my steering feel like shit.

I got all my parts from Anplumbing.com. Please note I went with all black Earls plumbing but XRP will work just fine you just have to cross reference part numbers.

967110ERL -10 A.N. Male Weld Fitting. Steel x1 (this will be welded onto the bottom of your Stock PS reservoir and feed into the actual pump)

967106ERL -6 A.N. Male Weld Fitting. Steel x1 (This will be welded onto the return side of the reservoir)

Option A:
997110ERL -10 A.N. Male Weld-on. Aluminum x1 (make sure to get the aluminum one as the return line from the pump is aluminum on KA24DE/SR, however the KAE is steel)

Option B: I just happened to have a turbo oil return outlet fitting that actually fit on the steering pump. I just had to use a round file to shave some of the aluminum down where the screws attached so it would fit straight on the pump) Make sure to replace the little O-Ring that is on the pump so it doesn't leak.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/2893/10002/-1?parentProductId=3151061

Just like the OP I decided to go with Push style fittings for my low pressure.

AT700167ERL 3/8 -6 Straight Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum. Black Hard Anodized x2 (I used these on my 15 row Setrab cooler)

If you're going to get a setrab make sure you also get two of these as they fit into the cooler so you're able to run the straight push on fittings listed above.
M22AN6 -6 22mm X 1.50 SETRAB Oil Cooler Adapter. 22mm x 1.5 to -6. x2

AT709167ERL 3/8 -6 90 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x2 (One goes onto the -6 weld on fitting for the cooler and the other goes onto the low pressure fitting on the steering rack)

AT709111ERL 5/8 -10 90 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x1 This will go onto the turbo oil return fitting I used for the steering pump.

AT704611ERL 5/8 -10 45 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x1 (This will attach to the weld on fitting at the bottom of the reservoir)

For my high pressure I decided to go with the whale tuned premade kit. Super high quality.
http://www.whalentuned.com/collections/nissan-240sx/products/nissan-s13-s14-high-pressure-power-steering-assembly

Now for the fittings on the steering high/low pressure. Everyone has problems with it leaking. I decided to go with the all star fittings mentioned previously in this thread.

ALL48211- Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 14mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare x1 (This goes onto the high pressure side. I didn't lathe these down, I just used some high quality thread sealant and it doesn't leak at all)

ALL48210- Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 16mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare x1 (Low pressure side on the steering rack)

780006ERL- 3/8 Push-On Hose. Black. Use Earl's Push-On Hose Ends. 6ft (This is for the reservoir to the return line and from the low pressure steering rack fitting to the oil cooler)

780010ERL -5/8 Push-On Hose. Black. Use Earl's Push-On Hose Ends. 2ft (This is for the -10 fittings from the reservoir to the steering pump)

Make sure the low pressure line from the rack goes to the left side of the cooler, and returns back into the return side of the reservoir.

As for fluid I used redline fully synthetic racing ATF. I bought 2 quarts and that was plenty.
http://www.frsport.com/Redline-30304-EACH-Oil-30304-Racing-ATF-Type-F---1-quart_p_14855.html

I did test this setup at a drift event and I had zero leaks, and no boiling fluid. Make sure you bleed the air bubbles completely from the system.

I hope this made sense as this is my first write up. I will upload pics when I have free time.

[snorkelcoupe]

Looks great thanks for this info! I plan to redo my PS as well.