What would you do in my situation?

[240sx123$]

If this gets closed, so be it. Im looking from some advice, which cant be found by searching. Im not uninformed on this matter- im just looking for opinions.

I have an s14 kouki with 89k and a stock KA. I have a very clean SR redtop that I'm hoping to swap in pretty soon. My dilemma has a few contributing factors. First one being, the rear main seal on my KA is leaking, which means im running on borrowed time. I recently switched from synthetic to conventional in hopes it would slow my leak- and it has noticeably. But obviously I'd still rather swap in the SR sooner rather than later, because the car is my daily and id like to not be left stranded somewhere, and I'm not trying to drop the trans to replace the seal on a motor thats spitting distance from coming out.

So for the SR swap, I have a couple options. I have a stock t25, stock ecu, stock everything basically. In my buddies car, the motor made 247whp at 13psi on a dynojet. Yeah, slightly inflated numbers, but all in all a pretty healthy motor. So I was all set to do a bare bones swap because its all I could afford at the moment, and was really trying to push the swap to as soon as possible. You have no idea how sick I am of driving a bone stock KA in a full weight kouki with 255's in the rear.

Then my buddy throws a wrench in the works by selling me his S15 turbo for $200. Now wtf am i supposed to do? lol. Do I go ahead with the stock swap, leaving the turbo upgrade for another day when I have more money- even knowing what a bitch it will be to do once the motor is in the car? Or do I push the swap back another 2 months at least, so I can afford a maf, injectors, s15 intake setup, and a tune? Ive had the car for over two years now, and the swap just keeps getting pushed back. It was supposed to be swapped a year and a half ago. Or, third option- do i swap the motor in all stock, with JUST the turbo upgraded, keep it at 7lbs, and dont beat on it until i can afford the supporting mods? Ive heard of a lot of guys doing this, but Im really not in a position where I can risk blowing up a motor... that would pretty much take me out of the car game at this point, finances are tight enough. The motor will be going in with a Koyo, nismo thermostat, and an fmic regardless of what I do. My eventual goal is 300whp, but after driving a stock KA for two years, even 200whp would make a HELL of a difference.

So what would you do?

[VNG704]

Add braided turbo lines(for install ease) to your list and drop that sr with the t28 in. Then drive like grandma until you can afford the supporting mods. But installing the t28 in after the motors already in isn't that hard. The way I see it, just unbolt the mani from the head then the 3 bolts from the elbow to the dp. Loosen turbo lines, pull it out!

[slideslidegnarslide]

i say swap it in stock because who wants to do all that work and not rip;) just do the turbo upgrade when you can afford it have fun with you car man who cares if its stock its alot better than a stock ka

[c72c]

I don't know about the KA, but why do people make 89k sound like high mileage?

As for the swap. I say keep the SR stock, then upgrade later. Get a feel for the SR while you gather the parts for the upgrade. Once you have all the parts and enough for a tune, swap it all in, tune, then feel the difference between the two setups. I always find it more fun when you can feel the difference in each change.
Also, i would agree with the SS lines. I hear people complain about the hard lines when swapping turbos. Put the ss lines on so you don't stress so much later.

P.S. the pod is done, it'll be out first thing monday :rawk:

[The_Other_Aaron]

i say swap it in stock because who wants to do all that work and not rip;) just do the turbo upgrade when you can afford it have fun with you car man who cares if its stock its alot better than a stock ka

x2 Even the stock SR is gonna be way better than the ka and you can drive the piss out of it instead of swapping in a new engine that you have to granny until you can afford tuning.

[240sx123$]

P.S. the pod is done, it'll be out first thing monday :rawk:

Killer, Im excited to see it. :)

I didnt mean to make 89k sound like high miles.. if anything its very low miles for the year. The motor is super healthy, 160psi across all four. Its just the rear main seal thats making me want to swap it out sooner rather than later, because I cant justify spending a day on my back with the car on jack stands just so I can drive the KA for an extra couple months. Id rather push through the swap, be hurtin on money for a few weeks, and not have to worry about the main seal.

I think I would prefer to put it in stock and upgrade from there. Itll be much easier to diagnose any problems I have after the swap with a stock motor. I was under the impression that replacing the turbo was a real bitch though. My buddy said hed rather do subframe bushings than replace a turbo... I thought to myself, if its that bad, maybe ill save myself the headache by putting it in now. I did a turbo gasket on an S13 before, and while it wasnt TERRIBLE, it wasnt a cakewalk either.

Whats the recommendation for the manifold to turbo bolts? Ive seen people tighten them down and tack them in place... is this generally considered the best option? Id prefer to do something that wasnt so permanent, but i also dont want the gasket to blow shortly after my swap.

But I'll definitely invest in some SS lines. I hadnt considered that before since I have two sets of hardlines. But the SS ones will definitely make life easier.

[RNGWLD]

If this gets closed, so be it. Im looking from some advice, which cant be found by searching. Im not uninformed on this matter- im just looking for opinions.

You have no idea how sick I am of driving a bone stock KA in a full weight kouki with 255's in the rear...do I go ahead with the stock swap, leaving the turbo upgrade for another day when I have more money- even knowing what a bitch it will be to do once the motor is in the car? Or do I push the swap back another 2 months at least, so I can afford a maf, injectors, s15 intake setup, and a tune? Ive had the car for over two years now, and the swap just keeps getting pushed back. It was supposed to be swapped a year and a half ago. Or, third option- do i swap the motor in all stock, with JUST the turbo upgraded, keep it at 7lbs, and dont beat on it until i can afford the supporting mods? Ive heard of a lot of guys doing this, but Im really not in a position where I can risk blowing up a motor... that would pretty much take me out of the car game at this point, finances are tight enough. The motor will be going in with a Koyo, nismo thermostat, and an fmic regardless of what I do. My eventual goal is 300whp, but after driving a stock KA for two years, even 200whp would make a HELL of a difference.

So what would you do?

Dear lord almighty...you'd have to drive a stock car with 89k miles for another WHOLE 2 MONTHS? fuck!!!! if I were you I'd just kill myself NOW rather than suffer having to drive a KA and have all the cool kids laughing at me!!!

Are you fuckin serious.....dude why not just drive what you have, save money for another 2 whole months, and then do it when "finances arent tight"

[slideslidegnarslide]

dont hate he just wants to rip not every ones baller just go for it if your close to philly levittown ill come help you who is this btw cause i prolly know you or have seen your car ever go to sonic??? pm me

[240sx123$]

Dear lord almighty...you'd have to drive a stock car with 89k miles for another WHOLE 2 MONTHS? fuck!!!! if I were you I'd just kill myself NOW rather than suffer having to drive a KA and have all the cool kids laughing at me!!!

Are you fuckin serious.....dude why not just drive what you have, save money for another 2 whole months, and then do it when "finances arent tight"

This is exactly why forums should require an IQ test to join. Seriously, learn to read asshat.

Im not pushing the swap because Im tired of driving a stock KA. Ive been driving it like that for two years- it is what it is. Id GLADLY wait as long as it took to do the swap under better financial circumstances. But obviously, since youre so frigging illiterate, you missed the part where I said MY REAR MAIN SEAL IS LEAKING.

MEANING: The car wont LAST long enough for me to take my good ole time with the swap. Why is this so hard to comprehend?? The rear main is leaking, the way to fix that is to drop the trans, pull the clutch, and replace the seal. I have an SR20 sitting in my garage. Am I spelling this out clearly enough? If you had an SR sitting in your garage, would you want to drop the trans to replace the rear main on a motor that youre planning on trashing anyway? My choice is to either hurry up and swap it, or spend 5 hours on my back fixing the KA, only to pull the whole thing out in two to three months.

But youre right, I should probably just kill myself. Moron.

[pacotaco345]

Remove the tranny, replace the seal, sell your sr setup, keep the t28, and go KA-T.. 300whp might be a lil much for a stock ka, but its plenty to support around 250whp, and then you'll have wayyy more torque then you would with the sr

[waxball88]

KA-T I boosted my 108k engine with a to4e running 8 psi. Ran fine expect i had a maf problem so it was rich at idle. Hell i even missed a shift redlined it and it took it like a champ no problems.

[240sx123$]

Not to start a KA vs SR debate, but I really hate the KA. Ive driven KA-T's and SR's, and Im just not a fan of the KA even when boosted. Say what you will, but Ive been back and forth over the past two years, have done my share of reading on both topics, and feel like Ive got enough seat time with both motors to say that Im making an educated decision. Im not saying the KA is a shitty motor, its definitely not. I just prefer the SR. Thats all.

[SinGarage]

The rear main seal is not that hard to replace. It should take you approx. 3-5 hours depending on how bad you have to wiggle the transmission back in and how many friend you go lol.

A swap to another engine (even just an SR) there are a lot of things to consider to support the upgrade. If time and money is an issue currently, I would just change the rear main and wait for the swap until finances are better. Just my :2c:.

[RNGWLD]

Yeah...and it won't last for 2 months adding a bit of oil every day? Its gonna blow up in the middle of the highway right?

You answered your own question. If it only takes you 5 hours to do the job then why not do it and have the peace of mind to do the swap when you have all you need. You said it yourself, you can install the stock turbo now, and then deal with the s15 one when the motor is already on the car, or do the turbo upgrade and risk the motor. How many hours will it take to install the S15 turbo later? How many hours would it take to deal with a blown engine?

And my reading comprehension skills are awesome, thank you very much. If you re-read your own post you can see how much you stressed the fact that you were "tired of driving a stock ka!"


But anyways, I'm not here to engage on a pissing contest. Best of luck with whatever you choose dude, and hope you enjoy that s15 turbo when its up and running.

[240sx123$]

The rear main seal is not that hard to replace. It should take you approx. 3-5 hours depending on how bad you have to wiggle the transmission back in and how many friend you go lol.

A swap to another engine (even just an SR) there are a lot of things to consider to support the upgrade. If time and money is an issue currently, I would just change the rear main and wait for the swap until finances are better. Just my :2c:.

I agree with you in a lot of ways. I guess I should have stated that I dont have the means to do the swap now with the S15 turbo, but if i do a stock swap, I can afford it, with everything that I wanted to install with the motor (battery and oil filter relocate, RAS's, Koyo, FMIC, Wiring Specialties harness). If I did the s15 turbo now, id either have to skimp on those things, or skimp on supporting mods. So I guess the S15 turbo is out, for now. But its still a debate whether I should swap or fix the ka, since i can swap it if i go stock. I feel that, being as close as I am to being ready to swap it (with a stock swap), itd be a waste to fix the KA. Its a five hour job, but its five SHITTY hours doing it in a gravel driveway on jackstands. If I swap it, ill have access to a lift.

Yeah...and it won't last for 2 months adding a bit of oil every day? Its gonna blow up in the middle of the highway right?

You answered your own question. If it only takes you 5 hours to do the job then why not do it and have the peace of mind to do the swap when you have all you need. You said it yourself, you can install the stock turbo now, and then deal with the s15 one when the motor is already on the car, or do the turbo upgrade and risk the motor. How many hours will it take to install the S15 turbo later? How many hours would it take to deal with a blown engine?

And my reading comprehension skills are awesome, thank you very much. If you re-read your own post you can see how much you stressed the fact that you were "tired of driving a stock ka!"


But anyways, I'm not here to engage on a pissing contest. Best of luck with whatever you choose dude, and hope you enjoy that s15 turbo when its up and running.

See, why couldnt you have just said it like that from the beginning, rather than being a dick? Im a nice person, treat me with respect and i'll do the same.

I could just continue adding oil, which is what ive been doing for six months now. Im worried about that not being an option, because the clutch slipped for the first time just before i switched to conventional oil. It hasnt slipped since, but Im assuming the leak will only get worse, and I have no idea what kind of time frame im looking at before the clutch stops grabbing.

I stressed that I'm tired of driving a stock KA, but that is the furthest thing from the reason I want to push the swap forward. I want to hurry up with the swap because of the KA's problems.. I could care less about "looking cool with my sr20." You can only look so cool in a 240sx. Yeah, Im tired of driving a stock KA, but if it were mechanically sound, Id continue driving it as long as it took to get the SR swap 100% ready with the s15 turbo and supporting mods. Its more of a debate of.. will it last me long enough to get my shit together for that? Nobody can answer that for sure. Now do you see why im debating?

[RNGWLD]

Alright its all good. I readily admit that when I read your post I pictured some kid who was whining about his SR, but now I understand your situation better. Truth be told I had to swap my clutch myself with no friends or prior knowledge and it was a bitch, so I understand you wanting to avoid it.
To answer your question I would keep on driving it carefully, but if I felt the clutch slipping again then I'd take a weekend and go ahead with the Stock SR swap, and just wait for the S15.

If you have a reliable car running even if its only a stock sr then you wont stress out and can plan your s15 turbo install better, and maybe even find some more things to add to the "to do list" for when you finally tackle the job. Working on cars under stress sucks lol

Best of luck dude :bigok:

[slideslidegnarslide]

dude ive said it a billion times fuck that ka throw the sr in stock sell all your ka shit and rip do the upgraded turbo and everything later or with the money from the ka

[R33E8]

Sell (or give) me your KA when you swap it out..

[vvtisupra]

You guys are lame


Sell the SR

Build the KA

S15 turbo on KA = nuts

smash on SR's with instant power

Call it a day

[1slowS13]

you're worried about a rear main seal? you can literally drive it for a year just as long as you add oil and keep up on your oil change.

save money, buy the $6 seal, do work.

you always want extra money for those just-in case situations.

what if you swap in the motor set and something breaks? yikes.

[KaminaSan]

Honestly. What I don't understand... you have a very healthy KA. You are planning to pull the motor, anyways...

Why not sell your SR setup, keep the s15 turbo, pull the K.A., and change the seals, and turbo it with all the money you got from selling the SR.

Here is why I say it. Everyone knows the KA is less commonly used, but has more torque blah blah blah. HOWEVER. You said this is your DD.

What happens when you go through with this swap, turn that key, it's 1:00 AM, and you and your buddies have been working all day to get it done.
NOTHING.
You have no idea where to start, whether it's electrical etc... Yeah, you will figure it out soon enough, but you need a car NOW to get to and from work.

That's why I suggest you sell the SR, and in that one day, you can pull the engine, replace the seal, add on turbo parts, and drop your engine in, knowing you can get to work the next day.

Not trying to be an ass. Just constructive criticism.

[I LUV MY S13]

I'd go option 2. Wait it out to get the stuff you need to fully upgrade everything.

[Arro]

I don't understand why it's always KA vs. SR. Both can be tuned, either moderately or in extreme. But KaminaSan is right about one thing, you're going to have less variables retaining the KA, because you won't be screwing around with wiring, or a whole mess of sensors that you have no idea what condition they are in, etc. And even if that SR ran well in another car, it's not uncommon for a "perfectly fine" engine to run like crap when moved from one chassis to another. Bump something here or there, or something gives out immediately after you fire it up in the new car.

What KaminaSan forgot to mention is that your parts are easier to come by for the KA. So as much as the SR has its cool factor, the reality is you can save some money, save some grief, and get things going smoother, while still running some reasonable boost... by keeping the KA. I know it's not the most glamorous Nissan engine, but it gets the job done well, and if you've been around on the scene, you've already seen other people's results in both power and prettyin'-up potential.

I know you said you've done your "seat time" with both setups, but bear in mind that every setup (even comparing two different SR cars) is gonna be different. Are you looking for a particular engine characteristic? Are you planning to hold the gears long into the RPM's to get that extra power that you don't have at the bottom end? Or would you prefer a little more low-end torque, and make the top-end power with a bit more boost?

The answer to that question is more important than "I've driven both". You gotta know WHY you want what you want, not based on the ass-dyno, but based on practical expectations of the engine performance. the KA and SR are indeed going to behave differently, even dressed up with similar bolt-ons. I just want to know if you understand what those differences are, and why you would prefer one over the other.

Otherwise, I have nothing against the SR. Or the KA. Or the CA18DET. Or other engines less frequently chosen, like RB's... or FJ20ET (trolls feel free to laugh).

[cdlong]

My rear main seal has been leaking for 5 years so I would normally say don't worry about it so much, but if it's making your clutch slip, never mind. Then again, maybe the clutch is going out anyway.

I hate the KA vs. SR debate as much as anyone, but there is some validity to the suggestions here. What didn't you like about the KA-t's you drove and what setup did they have? It's quite possible that you'd like a KA-t built to your preferences.

Whats the recommendation for the manifold to turbo bolts? Ive seen people tighten them down and tack them in place... is this generally considered the best option? Id prefer to do something that wasnt so permanent, but i also dont want the gasket to blow shortly after my swap.

Try jet nuts or safety wire. I saw a thread (here, I think) showing turbo bolts safety wired so they didn't back off. Safe, and removable. Same with jet nuts.

You can only look so cool in a 240sx.

I was beginning to think you were a bit of a dick, but you certainly redemed yourself with that line. :bigok:

[sleep]

ill buy that 89k ka

[chiboy002]

ill buy that 89k ka

same.

also, OP, you shouldnt switch from synthetic to conventional oil and vise versa. You can fuck up your engine like that, for further reference.

If i were you, i would run it stock. Stock is the most reliable and liek you said, you arent financially prepared to risk blowing a motor. You can always have as much time as you need, there is plenty of that since you set the swap back 1.5 years. Gather the parts needed and then swap it, doing it right the first time is the best option. Personally, i think you should aim this question to people who have had experience with a situation like this, and who are responsible. I can't give you straight advice, but i'm giving you what i would do. People who say for you to swap in right now and then add on later, clearly they either wanna save time or wanna tweak with the set up later on without supporting mods. Like i said, do it right. Be patient man, when you waited 18 months already, another 2 won't do shit.

[R33E8]

also, OP, you shouldnt switch from synthetic to conventional oil and vise versa. You can fuck up your engine like that, for further reference.


How so? I'm running conventional in my built ka-t to break it in and plan on switching to synthetic Pennzoil Ultra.. What's the problem?


BTW OP, get rid of that stupid truck motor ka! I'll help you take it out and remove it from your property at no charge! PM me if interested!

[ManoNegra]

this thread feels like a wormhole to 2003
a few misconceptions here

a leaking rear main seal isn't going to strand you
(you may other problems on that car that may but not this)
and what many people consider to be a leaking rear main seal many times isn't
many leaks due to driving tend to bead to the lip of the tranny
(my main seal and power steering leaks that I just fixed did this)

you don't need supporting mods to run an S15 turbo if you aren't increasing boost
might as well install it now when the motor is out
other things I would advise you to do are:
replace front and rear main seals (trust me on this)
get stainless turbo lines, they're a bitch to swap once the SR is in
specially on an S13 SR
get a new clutch kit, resurface flywheel, get bolts from dealer
replaces belts and hoses

now for some personal opinions
reason KA-Ts usually suck is because kids try to do them on a budget and neglect tuning
also look at most of the shop cars in japan run 2.2l stroked SRs
you have 2.4l motor to begin with in a KA... think about it

and lastly advice that will fall on deaf ears
don't get into modifying cars if "money is tight"
being there, done that
everything you do will just end up being a compromise and you'll just end up hating what you do
get a daily and just drive it
let your project car be that: a project

[cherrybombss142009]

why ask for opions the only one that matters is ur in the end

[R33E8]

why ask for opions the only one that matters is ur in the end

He never asked whether or not he should keep his KA.. He is dead set on removing it and putting in the SR, he just wants to know if he should swap it in stock, save up for supporting mods, or put in the s15 turbo now and add everything else later.. I think he should just swap it in stock and add everything else later so you at least know everything is running right..

[ayuaddict]

Act a fool!

[240bruce]

just do the turbo upgrade you will be happer with it.

[fishboi]

Dont boost your ka. You'll be spending the rest of your life on ka-t like the rest of those guys trying to figure out what the hell went wrong. I say wait 2 months, gather up all the cash and then do the swap. Don't forget to change out the seals on the sr. I turned up the boost and now my rear main,oil pan,front cover went TITS UP. Everythings leaking! I would also recommand getting a new oil/water pump AND don't forget to reseale everything with new RTV.

[swpdwgn]

this thread is a waste of space.

[cdlong]

Dont boost your ka. You'll be spending the rest of your life on ka-t like the rest of those guys trying to figure out what the hell went wrong. I say wait 2 months, gather up all the cash and then do the swap. Don't forget to change out the seals on the sr. I turned up the boost and now my rear main,oil pan,front cover went TITS UP. Everythings leaking! I would also recommand getting a new oil/water pump AND don't forget to reseale everything with new RTV.

Biased much? 'you'll automatically have unsolvable problems with the KA-t, but when the SR has problems, that's just the cost of doing buisness.'

Aren't your rings supposed to keep the pressure in the engine, not the rear main seal, etc.?

[sickrbs14]

if ya do ya sr ill buy the ka off ya pm me if ya go sr

[240sx123$]

I was beginning to think you were a bit of a dick, but you certainly redemed yourself with that line. :bigok:

Me?! A Dick? Nah man, I got an sr20, ima BAMF. :rofl:

this thread feels like a wormhole to 2003
a few misconceptions here

a leaking rear main seal isn't going to strand you
(you may other problems on that car that may but not this)
and what many people consider to be a leaking rear main seal many times isn't
many leaks due to driving tend to bead to the lip of the tranny
(my main seal and power steering leaks that I just fixed did this)

and lastly advice that will fall on deaf ears
don't get into modifying cars if "money is tight"
being there, done that
everything you do will just end up being a compromise and you'll just end up hating what you do
get a daily and just drive it
let your project car be that: a project

Main seal leaking wont leave you stranded IF your clutch stays good. Once theres enough oil on it to slip, yes- you could be left stranded. My clutch only has 20k on it, but with enough oil, even a brand new clutch will slip.

And that last bit of advice about modding cars when "money is tight." I guess you didnt understand me, as i didnt feel the need to go into my personal finances, but since you asked... Money that I can put into my car is tight. Everything else financially is going well- all my bills are paid, etc etc. Its not like Im struggling to get by and am obsessed with this car, and am being irresponsible by modding it. Money isnt tight, but "play money" is. Whatever I have "left over" after my expenses usually goes to my car. I also have a 2000 Dodge Neon that I picked up recently as an investment- once Im finished fixing and selling, that alone should pay for the s15 turbo supporting mods.

He never asked whether or not he should keep his KA.. He is dead set on removing it and putting in the SR, he just wants to know if he should swap it in stock, save up for supporting mods, or put in the s15 turbo now and add everything else later.. I think he should just swap it in stock and add everything else later so you at least know everything is running right..

Yeah this is what Im planning to do. This thread has been very helpful in helping me create a game plan. My current plan is new front and rear main seals, t25, fmic, koyo/mishimoto rad, nismo thermostat, forge rad hoses, greddy type rs, exedy stage 2 clutch, SS turbo lines, battery and oil filter relocation, new belts, new valve cover gasket, and rocker arm stoppers. I'll upgrade from there, but that should be a pretty good start, and an upgrade that ill be more than happy with. The motor im putting in looks very fresh, I dont plan on changing the oil or water pumps just yet, but I may do the head gasket while its out. Ive only ever done head gaskets on sohc motors before. Not worried about it, but it should be a learning experience.

To the KA-T advocates, I appreciate the honesty and constructive criticizm, but I've already made up my mind. I just feel like the SR is the motor that our cars were "supposed" to come with. SR'd 240's just feel like how nissan would have intended them to feel. The KA will always feel like a truck motor. Just not my style, but thank you for the input. The goal behind my car is just an awesome daily. Im not slamming it on its nuts, but its low enough that it doesnt look stupid. Im not stripping ANYTHING out of the car- full weight, with a sub and two amps. My goal is to improve performance without sacrificing any luxuries. AC, PS, Cruise, etc.. im keeping it all. Im not a drifter, nor a racer. Im building the car for me... for me to drive, every day. The SR gives the car the feel that I like to drive, allows me to keep all of the stuff I want to keep, and is factory turbo. Not saying a KA-t wont be reliable, but I do like the fact that the SR is boosted from the factory. As far as finding parts- I'll probably be picking up a 2nd SR next summer to build over the following winter. Until then, I can source stuff from the forums. Worst case scenario, both of my roommates have an extra vehicle that I could borrow. :)

[Master Chief]

I had a S15 turbo on my 1996 SR20DET, being completely stock except for a FMIC a 3" exhaust and down pipe and a boost controller - running on 14.7 PSI.
This was on the stock injectors, AFM, ECU etc.

I trashed the hell out of the car for about 2 years, road racing, drifting, whatever - never missed a bit.
Eventually the motor went out because of a spined rod bearing, while drifting.

What i am saying is get the SWAP, throw the S15 turbo on, keep below 14.8 PSI - and you'll have lots of fun and reliability.

[fishboi]

Also if your going to listen to this guy^ make sure YOU DO GET THE injectors and a tune. Hey may have been lucky. Doesn't mean you will.

=cdlong;3591653]Biased much? 'you'll automatically have unsolvable problems with the KA-t, but when the SR has problems, that's just the cost of doing buisness.'Biased? No. Like this guy, I too spent my fair share debating wether to go ka-t or sr. I spent MONTHS on KA-t learning as much as I could. after spending so much time looking at everyones builds and all of the question, I came to a conclusion that building a reliable KA-t IS NOT CHEAP. It will be way more cost effective to just do the sr. Often people are fooled going with KA-t because they all figure they save since they already have the engine. Just get the little things is what they all say to them selfs. Just search ka-t forums and you'll see how many people are giving up or get tired of constant problems even when they think they did it all right.

Aren't your rings supposed to keep the pressure in the engine, not the rear main seal, etc.?Yea I believe so. I was just bringing that up because he complained about changing the seal. So what I was trying to say is, that if he turns up the boost all of the old rtv (oilpan, front cover ) will soon begin to leak. Then he would have to work on it just like the seal going out in the ka.

My rear seal went out cuz it was old and worn out.

[Master Chief]

"That guy" was runing a permanent wideband, and AFR's never went ovel 11.5, at full throttle.

Up to 14.7 PSI, on S15 Turbo, there is no need for injectors upgrade.
You should hoever use a walbro intank.

[240sx123$]

The stock S15 motor uses 440cc injectors and runs what, 7lbs? stock boost? Youre telling me I can run 14lbs on 370's?

Im sure I could run the S15 turbo and go easy on it and be fine, but Im gonna be responsible and wait. lol. The S15 turbo will go in when I can afford a maf, rom tune, and injectors. The walbro 255 is already in my possession, and will be installed with the stock SR, along with a z32 fuel filter.

[slideslidegnarslide]

swap the sr in and lets fucking cruse just do it

[240sx123$]

swap the sr in and lets fucking cruse just do it

Haha soon man, soon. Im as anxious as you are but I want to take my time as much as I can. I have to finish and sell this Neon before I can buy anything more for my 240, and I seem to be stuck at the moment. Dumbass domestic cars make everything difficult.

Things I still need are
FMIC
Mishimoto/Koyo
Z32 fuel filter
Oil filter relocate kit
Wire to relocate battery
Wiring specialties wiring harness
RAS's
Boost and water temp gauges
Belts
VC gasket
SS turbo lines
Manfiold to turbo gasket

I should have just about everything else.

[slideslidegnarslide]

dude lmk i will help with the swapi think i may have some of that stuff in my shed as well ill take a look if i do i will donate it if you pick it up

[cdlong]

Biased? No. Like this guy, I too spent my fair share debating wether to go ka-t or sr. I spent MONTHS on KA-t learning as much as I could. after spending so much time looking at everyones builds and all of the question, I came to a conclusion that building a reliable KA-t IS NOT CHEAP. It will be way more cost effective to just do the sr. Often people are fooled going with KA-t because they all figure they save since they already have the engine. Just get the little things is what they all say to themselves. Just search ka-t forums and you'll see how many people are giving up or get tired of constant problems even when they think they did it all right.

Yea I believe so. I was just bringing that up because he complained about changing the seal. So what I was trying to say is, that if he turns up the boost all of the old rtv (oilpan, front cover ) will soon begin to leak. Then he would have to work on it just like the seal going out in the ka.

My rear seal went out cuz it was old and worn out.

Yeah, cause people go on the internet just to post "yep, the car ran fine today." I've been on KA-t.org, there are plenty that have put serious miles on a KA-t without issue. A KA-t will take more to sort out than an SR, it's not an OEM setup, at least be fair about the comparison.

I mentioned the rings because it sounds like your wonder engine has some serious internal issues.

[240sx123$]

dude lmk i will help with the swapi think i may have some of that stuff in my shed as well ill take a look if i do i will donate it if you pick it up

If you do, Ill definitely throw some green your way. Interpret that however you like. haha

Where in the philly area are you? I work right near Roosevelt and Grant Ave.

[slideslidegnarslide]

ooohhhhh shiiiiiit i live in levitown bulivard is like 15 minutes from my house i also and i looove GREEN take that how every you want it lollli got alot of shit laying around if your that close if you wanna just come up and take a look at some sheet lmk and i did just buy a greddy boost gauge bnib buuuutttt i think im going to use it idk though pm me we can meet up or something

[Master Chief]

The stock S15 motor uses 440cc injectors and runs what, 7lbs? stock boost? Youre telling me I can run 14lbs on 370's?
.

Thats exactly what i am telling you - you dont need to belive me as if you search my treads on this forum, you will find that i usually dont know what iam talking about - but just be smart - strap an WB Gauge to your engine, and see the AFR's for yourself. If you see above 11.8ish, lower the boost.

Also i dont see the logic in what your saying above.
Because in stock form its like this or that, does this make it right ?

The stock s15 and S14 for that matter, run with AFR's at full throttle, in the 10's range....... Does this mean this is something you want to do in a performance car ?

Its all about injector duty cycle.
In contrast to many on this forum, i speak from experience, and i tell you it works, safe and fine.
Want to be safer - keep it at 13 PSI, if you want - but really, i dont see the problem.

Its not like you putting a GT35 .

Good luck.

[fishboi]

=cdlong;3593691]Yeah, cause people go on the internet just to post "yep, the car ran fine today."
I don't get what your trying to say.

I've been on KA-t.org, there are plenty that have put serious miles on a KA-t without issue.Im sure there are. IF DONE RIGHT that is.


A KA-t will take more to sort out than an SR, it's not an OEM setup, at least be fair about the comparison

I am being fair. That is exactly why I said a KA-T setup WILL NOT be cheap or reliable, unless you fork out a good amount of cash. You need good parts (no isis or no name e-gay turbos) to have it tuned/built properly.

I mentioned the rings because it sounds like your wonder engine has some serious internal issues.You are seriously misunderstanding what I am trying to say. I didn't say anything about the sr being a wonder engine. I was simply trying to tell him that if he gets the sr he won't have as many issues because it was built with a turbo from the factory BY engineers. Not by some little kids that think they can make a engine reliable by just slapping a few parts together.

[GroundPerformance]

I am being fair. That is exactly why I said a KA-T setup WILL NOT be cheap or reliable, unless you fork out a good amount of cash. You need good parts (no isis or no name e-gay turbos) to have it tuned/built properly.

It's the other way around... As long as you know what needs to be done on the KA before boosting like " Intake Manifold prep work, ECU Tuning, and etc" You can't beat the $$=hp gain you will get. SR is just an easy excuse to get boosted. I have done several basic KA-T setups and not anyone of them cost more than an SR motorset price. Best of all I get more HP and torque thanks to the bigger displacement. Reliability.... It's all on the tune... SR is tuned to be boosted do the same to the KA then your just even. I have both KA-T and SR, I like both of them and it all comes down to personal preference period.

[OBEEWON]

There are so many words in this thread. It's way intense.