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View Full Version : HICAS lock bar install


edmorl
08-11-2010, 12:22 AM
well, theres little information I can find about the P/S lines that attatch to the HICAS, so here's my question. as you can see in the picture below, the 2 lines are simply capped off, but on other places, people say you have to reroute them together (as in put a new line connecting both of these together) so which one is it ? capping them off or rerouting ?

thanks :wan:

bb4_96
08-11-2010, 04:31 AM
I would think capping them would be a bad idea. Every time you turn hydraulic pressure is being applied to the hicas system in the back and if they are capped that pressure would have nowhere to go.

DALAZ_68
08-11-2010, 10:26 AM
why not just replace the rear assembly with a regular 240...no fuss, straight bolt on...?

edmorl
08-11-2010, 02:39 PM
I wanted to use the lock bar because it was simpler, faster, and cheaper. look at this shop, they have the instructions on how to install but they just capped it :faint: so.. what's the right way ?

HICAS Cancel Rod (Breaker Bar) - $150.00 : Takeda Enterprises, Nissan Skyline GT-R and Japanese Domestic Market JDM cars and parts source in Vancouver, Canada (http://www.getjdmcars.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=224)

http://www.getjdmcars.com/catalog/images/large/parts/hi_hciaspic_LRG.jpg

SnakeKack
08-11-2010, 03:21 PM
When i had mine I took a small line about 8 inches long, and bent it into a U shape and connected it up front near the pump, looping it. Not capping it off. That way it deleted the two long ass lines running down the car.

japslapsilvia
08-11-2010, 04:34 PM
you can also remove the "vanes" from the PS pump and block the rear ports. search there is a write up on it.

CaptainVlad
08-11-2010, 04:51 PM
Just purchase a non hicas subframe. You can get one for around $100. I got lucky and got one with solid bushings for $60.

Will end up being cheaper then the bar thingy mcjigger