Turbine vs. the brake master cylinder

[Kreator]

http://www.wam.umd.edu/~iminin/images/prob/DSCF0030.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~iminin/images/prob/DSCF0031.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~iminin/images/prob/DSCF0032.jpg
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~iminin/images/prob/DSCF0033.jpg

I'm about out of ideas... I'd be happy to put a heat shield, but that crap is too close. Different mani/turbo isnt an option as i will have to redo downpipe and the wastegate wont fit... so suggestions/advices are very very welcome.

[mrmephistopheles]

make an insulation sandwich with some sheetmetal stock & insulation, bend your line over a bit, and slide that puppy in there... you don't have much of a choice.

[PROJECT240SX]

Is this on a AT? if so you need to replace the brake booster and I believe the master cylinder as well with the 5 speed units, there is about a extra 1" of clearance when swapping over to the MT brake booster and master cylinder. Thanks.

Ivan

[old_s13]

Get a different master cylinder setup that doesnt need the brake booster. I cant recall off the top of my head any places that sell them, but they do exist. They are very top notch MC's, pretty pricey but they have built in balance bar and some other jibberish that is kickass and all that extra goodness.

I dunno, just an idea.

[the head]

manual brake setups are not usually the way to go on a street driven car but Tilton makes units built for tight clearances they even use remote resivors on some of them

clarifying the useless above

[old_s13]

Originally posted by the head
manual brake setups are not usually the way to go on a street driven car but Tilton makes units built for tight clearances they even use remote resivors on some of them

clarifying the useless above

hey, atleast I SUGGEST it..

ungrateful motha..

[Kreator]

Originally posted by mrmephistopheles
make an insulation sandwich with some sheetmetal stock & insulation, bend your line over a bit, and slide that puppy in there... you don't have much of a choice.

yeah i was thinking about that. I still have some of that header wrap left over that i used on the dp. I was thinking of stapling that to an aluminum sheet and using that as a heat shield. Question is whether that will be enough.

the tranny is manual

replacing/relocating the brake stuff is an option but rather expensive, so i'm hoping for a cheaper solution. Thanx for the suggestions guys, keep em coming.... i still hope to hear from people who also ran into this problem and whether their methods worked or not.

[uiuc240]

Do any of the swappable MCs change the location of the outlets? Like the Z one for example.....

Eric

[orion::S14]

Heat wrap, heat wrap, heat wrap...

Mine is much closer (1/8"), and with 3 layers of wrap, plus a ring around the resevoir...no issues thus far.

Here's a pic:

http://www.cautioncreativity.com/briand/images/turbo_closeup.jpg

I had to grind down the DP bolt b/c it hit the M/C...

Later - Brian

[Kreator]

ok that is reassuring. I just checked and i can fit about 5 layers of header wrap in there. So if i bend it out a little more, i might be able to fit 3 layers and an aluminum shield and all that surrounded by air on both sides. hopefully thatll do the trick

another thing though, not as related... i ran the car yesterday for a while, and i had smoke coming out from around the turbine, which didnt smell like exhaust or oil, so i thought it might've been coolant. Now i accidently cut my hose that pushed the coolant in before running the car, so i saw vapor coming out of there at a decent pressure... today morning i checked the turbo, there seems to be no trouble for the fluids to go through it. my question is, is it an expected behavior or not? I mean i know that water boils at 100 deg c and the turbine gets much hotter than that, but it kinda seems pointless to me as vapor wont be able to cool down the turbo.

[the head]

1. i hope you run a water antifreeze mix as it has a higher boiling point
2. check your radiator cap water in a pressurized system has a higher boling point
3. fresh header wrap will smoke a little when it gets hot

[Kreator]

Originally posted by the head
1. i hope you run a water antifreeze mix as it has a higher boiling point
2. check your radiator cap water in a pressurized system has a higher boling point
3. fresh header wrap will smoke a little when it gets hot

well it is a mix of antifreeze and water. But seriosly, it can only raise the temp that much, and the turbo would easily heat up twice that temperature. I know header wrap would smoke, as would the gaskets, but the smoke was coming out of the turbine, not from the downpipe and it was doing it for a while, so it looked suspicious. So i take it that coolant shouldn't be boiling at all?

[HYPERION-X]

How long is that brake line? Have you thought of having a new line custom bent?

[the head]

coolant should only be boiling if somthing is wrong
ratio for temp increase is roughly three degrees per 1 psi
1.2 bar radiator cap = approx 17.4 psi
equals an increase of 52.20 degrees in boiling point rather signifigant i think

[Kreator]

Originally posted by the head
coolant should only be boiling if somthing is wrong

hmm something i just thought about

the higher the pressire in the system, the higher is the boiling point. So if there was air in the lines, then the pressure would be lower allowing coolant to boil. so i was thinking that since there were cuts in the lines, the air would get in and thats when the coolant would boil...

[the head]

very true

[mbmbmb23]

I've seen where you can buy some stainless steel braided hydraulic clutch lines, so...maybe get a custom one of those made for you with the correct MC fittings you need, and then snake the line around the outside drivers side of the MC. (and also use heatshield for extra protection).



-m