KA(E) problems please help!!

[Driftin_240sx]

ok as the title says my sohc is havin some problems... i recently put in another sohc to get the car running..well now the new motor, which was untouched from one car into mine, it feals like it is missfiring suuper bad, or like the timing is way off, but it just doesnt make sense to me because the timing was not changed... so what i did was buy all new ignition parts (dist., cap, coil, wires plugs) and now it is still running like ****. i put the dist. in the same way the other one came out and the only thing i kept the same in the car was the wire harness and the o2 sensor... NOW the exhaust is off the car after the cat, and i had the car running with new premium gas in it, wen i started the car i looked at the cat and no smoke or anyhting was comming out.. ok i took it around the block came back looked under the car and there were flames comming out of the exhaust (through the car commin out about 4 inches past the cat) now i know that cant be right, or can it? could it be my o2 sensor is shot and puttin to much gas in? please help if u can!!

david

[zero.counter]

Sounds like you may be running rich, seriously rich. Check the ecu to see if any codes are being thrown regarding the injectors or fuel management system. If the O2 sensor was shot, you would most likely get the check engine signal. Make sure that the fuel filter is not clogged and replace it. You can test the voltage ont he injectors to see if they are operating correctly as well. Bill Robert seems to have the lowdown on the SOHC, seeing as that he has one. He may be of more use.

[Driftin_240sx]

ok well i just went outside to see if it tripped any codes... i turned it to the second click before u turn the car over (correct?) and the red and green like just stayed on...so no codes..

david

[zero.counter]

I am not sure if the s13 and s14 ecu checking process is the same.
1. You need to leave all the sensors connected
2. 2nd of all, the check engine light WILL NOT turn off until you reset the computer, to do this:

* Find the computer(Behind the plastic piece by the passenger foot
* Pull it out
* Turn your key to the on position
* You will see a flathead screw looking bolt on 1 side of the computer. Turn this fully clockwise
* Wait at least 2 seconds
* Turn it back to fully counterclockwise
* This will then show the trouble code - (The check engine light will blink to show this, for instance, blink..blink..blink......blink..blink, will be 32)
* After you read the code, you can start the engine
* Turn the bolt back to the clockwise position for at least 2 seconds(While running)
* Turn it back to the counterclockwise position

from 240sx.org

[Bill Roberts]

Sounds like you need to do a full reset of the ECU.

I get some flames during let offs above 4500RPM in 3rd and second, all the way out the back of the car..but this is due to having large injectors and just buring raw fuel in the pipe which is normal for that situation.

Are your injectors leaking slightly? If so, they are also sucking air as well and this can cause the ECU to give false readings.

Wiggle each injecvtor while at idle. Your should find one that makes it miss on that cylinder..because that simply happens sometimes. Take the plug going into the injector and clean the contacts really good...bad contact surfaces cause the injector to drip the fuel rather than squirt and mist the fuel. A can of Techron is a good thing as well. This will clean up the deposits in the injectors, especially if it has been sitting (which I am sure it has been)

Another thing, proper grounding of the harness. Our cars are not star grounded. This means their are several places different components look for a solid battery/block ground. It only takes one bad ground contact to affect drivability.

This is where I would start. It is normal to get flames at the cat. Our engines are robust and the fire can travel full distance out the tail of certain conditions of racing are met. The main reason for the flames is unburned fuel..and this takes me back tyo an injector that is A not getting a good electrical contact, B. and injector or injectors that are clogged and dripping, not spray/misting, or C. a confused CPU due to the signal feedback loop not seeing everything due to a bad ground somewhere./

This is a start. Make sure your plugs and wires are "as new".

All it takes is a good sealed vaccum system, proper timing, fire and fuel and compression and you got a smooth running engine. The fuel must be managed properly. You may even go so far as to connect a fuel pressure meter up to your line and see if it is maintaing proper pressure. A purge valve could be stuck causing extra air to be flowing in the wrong direction.

Good luck..

Hard to repair a car over the web..but one of all of it or more is the culpret.

Damn that was long, and excuse typos, I got steaks 'a grilling!!

[Driftin_240sx]

well i jsut made another trip outside... and heres what the ecu said..... 2 long pause... 3..4 pause...5. litle pause .. 1


if anyone knows the codes..that would help cause i sure dont.

[zero.counter]

SOHC CODES
11 Crank angle sensor circuit
12 Air flow meter circuit
13 Engine temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition signal missing in primary coil
31 E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit)
32* EGR function
33 Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit
35* Exhaust gas temperature circuit
43 Throttle position sensor circuit
45* Injector leak
55 No malfunction

*california models only

again from 240sx.org

[Bill Roberts]

http://www.antrx.com/yabb/index.php?board=20;action=display;threadid=784


Only difference is our ECU physical location.

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
Only difference is our ECU physical location. [/B]
If you are speaking in terms of S14 and S13 SOHC, then you stand to be corrected.
Camshaft Position Sensor 11 EC-88
Mass Air Flow Sensor 12 EC-92
Coolant Temperature Sensor 13 EC-97
Vehicle Speed Sensor 14 EC-101
Ignition Signal Primary 21 EC-105
IACV-AAC Valve 25 EC-110
ECM 31 EC-115
EGR System 32 EC-117
Front O2 Sensor 33 EC-125
Knock Sensor 34 EC-130
EGR Temp Sensor 35 EC-133
EGRC-BPT Valve 36 EC-137
Closed Loop 37 EC-139
Intake Air Temp Sensor 41 EC-140
Throttle Position Sensor 43 EC-145
CYL 4 Misfire 65 EC-150
CYL 3 Misfire 66 EC-150
CYL 2 Misfire 67 EC-150
CYL 1 Misfire 68 EC-150
Random Misfire 71 EC-150
TW Catylist System 72 EC-154
Fuel Injection System 76 EC-157
Rear O2 Sensor 77 EC-162
Crank Position Sensor (OBD) 82 EC-167
A/T Diag Comm Line 84 EC-171
Crank P/S (OBD) Cog 95 EC-174
Coolant Temperature Sensor 98 EC-178
Park/Neutral Position Switch 103 EC-183
EGRC Solenoid/V 105 EC-188
Inhibitor Switch 111 AT
Vehicle Speed Sensor A/T 112 AT
A/T 1st Signal 113 AT
A/T 2nd Signal 114 AT
A/T 3rd Signal 115 AT
A/T 4th Signal or TCC 116 AT
Shift Solenoid/V A 118 AT
Shift Solenoid/V B 121 AT
Overrun Clutch S/V 123 AT
TOR Conv clutch SV 124 AT
Line Pressure S/V 125 AT
Throttle Position Sensor A/T 126 AT
Engine Speed Signal 127 AT
Fluid Temp Sensor 128 AT
A/T Comm Line XX EC-192

That is for an S14, more code possibilities than a SOHC S13.

[Bill Roberts]

Naw...that link I displayed was saying the ECU was behind the radio where ours is behing the pass kick panel...(that link was referring to the trucks I suppose) and that was the difference I was talking about, and you are quite right about the S-14...however, I never heard of anyone putting a KAE in an S-14......yet..!

LOL if someone ever does!

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
I never heard of anyone putting a KAE in an S-14......yet..!

LOL if someone ever does!
Maybe we are not on the same page here. The reason I mentioned the S14, which happens to be what I own explaining its relevance in the conversation, is because I told him in an earlier post that I was not sure if the ecu practice of resetting and viewing codes was the same.

As I used to say in high school, my bad.