Nightmare oil change need advice...

[mmdb]

Welp my mom was bickering at me again to change her oil and mine. Anyway just being in a bad mood whenever this occurs I raised my car with a jack between the front suspension arms. And guess what... it slipped denting my oil pan.

Ok well staring at the damage a while i thought it would be ok since the dent isn't major. I thought wrong. I started the car and the oil icon came on. Soon after the engine getting really loud, probably an oil shortage within the engine.

I only have the fsm for the sr20det engine that i downloaded here on zilvia. But i was wondering if the torque specifications for the ka24de would be the same. Also would i need ot replace any gaskets? :wtc:

I was also wondering if I could just hammer the oil pan back in place. Thanx for your help.

[AKADriver]

I thought I had it bad when I broke a drain plug off in the pan.

The KA does not have a two-piece oil pan like the SR. To replace the KA oil pan means lifting the engine out of its mounts, so that the pan can be pulled out. Unless you lift the engine, the pan won't go very far.

No actual gaskets are required, just a tube of Nissan Genuine Liquid Gasket or equivalent (I believe it's just RTV silicone). The torque spec for the oil pan bolts is 5.1-5.8 ft-lb. Basically hand-tight.

The pan is baffled inside, so you won't be able to hammer it. You might want to make sure the oil pickup isn't damaged also.

[wherezmytofu]

Originally posted by AKADriver
I thought I had it bad when I broke a drain plug off in the pan.

The KA does not have a two-piece oil pan like the SR. To replace the KA oil pan means lifting the engine out of its mounts, so that the pan can be pulled out. Unless you lift the engine, the pan won't go very far.

No actual gaskets are required, just a tube of Nissan Genuine Liquid Gasket or equivalent (I believe it's just RTV silicone). The torque spec for the oil pan bolts is 5.1-5.8 ft-lb. Basically hand-tight.

The pan is baffled inside, so you won't be able to hammer it. You might want to make sure the oil pickup isn't damaged also. 100% correct, most poeple dont relize when they dent the pan the oil pick up might not be able ot get all of it u iwll need ot remober the entire enigne...or sum how do um tricky *** ****!

[mmdb]

Ok well i just finished taking out the oil pan. It was straight forward as you guys described, not to mention twas a major pain.

The pan is dented pretty bad. I tried hammering it into place but it deemed hopeless. The damage is so bad that the location where it had contact with the jack made a indentation 4" by 6". And the angle of the pan has changed dramatically.

I measured the oil pick up to be roughly 5.75". Tthe indenation caused the oil pick up to come incontact with the oil pan. I saw some scraps and such. Well it's pretty bad so i'm going to head over to nissan and pick one up tomorrow. :bash:

[mmdb]

for future reference i don't recommend using the cross member because of the obvious. And also the cross member was slightly bent. Not enough to harm anything but nontheless it did bend. It surprised me... it's one of the major points to lift a car. :eek:

[240racer]

The cross member is not a recomended jacking point. It works most of the time on our cars since they are pretty light, but you should lift on the correct jacking points behind each tire. Otherwise lift on a frame joint, they are much stronger then the middle of a beam that's not intended to have loading there. Underneath the t/c rod connections seems to work pretty good for me. Also lifting the diff pumpkin is pretty good, it's well supported.

[meme]

i have a s13 ka24de oil pan for sale if you need it. it is in Pasadena,ca [email protected]

[Bill Roberts]

I only lift in the following places:

Left /Right Front frame rails behind the front tires under front left right Door, Left Right rear frame rails in front of rear tires behind left right doors.

Even the frame rails will crush in some. To avoid thatm use pieces of I-Bean that are large enough to straddle the frame rails.

I would never use the pumpkin, or any suspention parts. It is not a good idea to lift any of the unsprung weight. If you must lift something that is unsprung (any point that leaves the suspention in the loaded mode), always use some pine 2X8 blocks that are at least 10 inchs long. The Jack will dig into them and so will the lift points, causing a grip that is sure and will not slide.


I would replace that pickup tube if I were you...and the oil pan.

Good luck!

[RedlineRacer]

One time I lifted with the car almost in the middle of the frame. I thought since it was the frame, it wouldn't matter. Like right when I got it all the way in the air, the frame crushed and the jack almost pinched my brake lines that run beside them. I was so happy when I saw it had just crushed the frame and did not do any more damage.

[AKADriver]

Originally posted by 240racer
The cross member is not a recomended jacking point.

Yes it is. Page GI-17 of my 1990 FSM shows Garage Jack Points, and they are clearly shown to be the front crossmember and rear differental case.

[transient]

And actually, since the 240 has independent rear suspension, the pumpkin is sprung weight, not unsprung. It's a fine place to jack up the back end. Just remember to use jackstands.

[Swoop411]

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[mmdb]

side question. Would a oil pan from a s13 ka24de fit on the 97 ka24de?

[95Blue240sx]

did you lift the engine to get the pan out?

[mmdb]

welp just got it in a it started fine. took it around the block. Now i gotta realign my steering wheel. Thanx for everybody's help.

[Bill Roberts]

True ZC about it being sprung weight (I wasn't thinking there)...I just get the thought of nasty things can happen if I used the pumpkin to lift the car...I would do it on an old ford or chevy..but the thought of it on the 240 scares me somehow...like if I had a hairline crack and the next thing I know would be KABLOOOEY, busted pumpkin with gear oil all over.

I think I will stick to the frame rails, or the tires on a lift...

(some things just seem to feel non-kosher to do...even though it says it is ok)

[Tictakman]

i just changed my oil pan too.

to get it out i lifted the car and unbolted the motor mounts on each side of the the car. i then jacked up my engine itself and it came out fairly easy.


Zak

[240racer]

Originally posted by AKADriver
Yes it is. Page GI-17 of my 1990 FSM shows Garage Jack Points, and they are clearly shown to be the front crossmember and rear differental case.

I am talking about the crossmember right below the radiator, not the one between the two engine mounts. That one is good to go, but hard to get at. The radiator one is much more tempting. I don't have an fsm to look at, so I don't know which one you are talking about. There is little support by the radiator. Mine is bent and dented from jacking (most of which I did) so I just wasn't recomending it to others.