KA24DE wants to die on partial throttle or stop lights

[Xplat]

I've owned my car for about a year and a half and never had a problem, then suddenly over night this problem develops.

I come to a stop at a stop light and the car wants to die on me. The engine will dip to ~500 RPM then go back up, then go back down. Once warmed up the engine idle's steady at ~800 RPM.

However, I can replicate what the car does at stop lights by giving the throttle a quick jab. Just enough to raise the RPM's by like two or three hundred.

Here's a video to detail my problem, you can kind of hear when I press the throttle by the sound of a plastic clunk.


YouTube - KA24DE Wants to die on throttle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnxS0jZFYjI)


Could this problem somehow be related to the fuel injectors? Bad fuel?? I'm still on the same tank of gas this problem started with. I'm not so sure if the spark plugs may be the problem somehow because the car starts right up.

Is this what the car behaves like when the idle air control valve needs cleaning? Can this somehow be a vacuum leak somewhere?

I just need some help narrowing down what this could be or if anyone else has had this problem before what worked for you.

Any help would be appreciated guys, thanks.

[c-los13]

could be the maf, try cleaning it
if not the best thing you can do is to pull the codes from the ECU
look up on google how to do it
good luck

[DanDriftS13]

I cant watch the video as I am at work right but from what I read here it does somewhat sound like what happens when your iacv needs to be cleaned. Since that is the easiest and least expensive thing to do I would try that first. Are there any other problems such as running rich or misfiring under throttle or anything like that? If yes you are running rich and misfiring at all I would then look at your MAF, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator as the culprit. When my maf went bad my car would idle smooth without misifiring but would constantly bounce between 500-1500 rpm at idle and would die out sometimes as well.

[Xplat]

Okay, so I just checked my ECU and it threw back a '45' and a '13'

This is a 91 S13.

From what I looked up a code 45 is an "injector fuel leak"

and a code 13 is either a "Coolant Temperature sensor circuit" or "Engine temperature sensor circuit"

I tried smelling my injectors to see if I could smell gasoline basically to see how serious this leak is (if it even is a leak) and couldn't smell anything so hopefully my car won't catch fire in the garage this summer. Now that I think about it, my injectors are probably leaking inside... >.>

The other thing doesn't worry me as much but I'll go ahead and try to get it fixed anyway although code 13 is kind of ambiguous. I don't know where to start.

Any further help from you guys with these two codes I pulled up would be great.

I'm going to do some research in the meantime.

[DanDriftS13]

code 13 is not ambiguous... Coolant temp sensor reads the engine temp and tells the ecu how to adjust the fuel going to the motor depending on how warm it is. Cars with bad coolant temp sensors can suffer from irregular/ rough idle when they are cold and usual idle fine once they are warmed up. Change the cts and then CLEAR the codes from the ecu and take it for a drive and let us know how it is.

[Xplat]

I just took an ohmmeter to my fuel injectors and got

C1: 13.6 Ohms
C2: 13.5 Ohms
C3: 13.1 Ohms
C4: 12.8 Ohms

I looked in the FSM and it says the resistance should be around 11 Ohms.

What the hell none of mine are around 11.

Now, my question is, is the difference in resistance enough to warrant buying new injectors?

[Xplat]

I'm bumping this in hopes that I can get some more insight on my fuel injector situation.

[s13-ghost]

man ur problems seems to be xaclty like mine ima try n clean my acv when ever i have time and ima check my cts forsure