Running DUMB rich...need suggestions

[ATLspeed]

UPDATED
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ka24de built bottom
E-Mance Tune (never had a prob so ppl dont start)
370cc (now running 550cc)
GTi-R t28/ with s14 t28 comp housing (12psi)
walbro fuel pump
FMIC
3" Turbo Back
SAFC II

Ok, So for some reason my car is now running dumb rich....i mean like 10 afr through the whole rpm range. The idle is choppy from running rich i suppose and at times the idle will be smooth but still at 10 afr, I had to use my SAFC and changed the settings to -10/-20 to get it to drive safely up and down the road to see how it runs.!?!?

This is random, all i did was switch out my solid motor mounts to stock and then wanted to go for a drive and its running rich....ANY INPUT/SUGGESTIONS ARE APPRECIATED

Things I've done so far:
- Checked for boost leaks, took bumper off and inspected intercooler, piping, and couplers for defects.
- Timing is dead on along with cam timing
- Switched to stock ecu and still the same thing.
- Checked all grounds
- Checked z32 MAF wiring, even put my stock MAF back on, changed settings with SAFC and still the same thing
- Put in new spark plugs and still did the same thing
- Checked for leaky injectors; ie - checked o-rings and pulled fuel rail and turned key to ON
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor (New)
- New injectors
- Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (afpr)

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*Narrowed it down to being electical...ECU should go into "fail-safe" mode but doesnt. ie; disconnecting the maf the car will not rev above 2.5k or 3k.....
* Popped open my ecu and found that pin 17 (maf) is fried on the board. But switching back to a stock one didnt make much of a difference either...hmmmm..more electrical gremlins

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/2010-06-30230313.jpg
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/2010-06-30230505.jpg
http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/2010-06-30230450.jpg

[ch1873857]

need more details on your setup. are you running a walbro fuel pump. and if you are are you running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. if you arent running an fpr you WILL run pretty rich. also you said nothing about what tune you were running. are you running an ecu that is tuned for 370s? -10 to 20 is not enough compensation for that. stock is 270 yours are 370. 100cc difference. just to give you an idea. i tuned an sr with s15 480s and a walbro with stock fpr. we had to pull almost 50% out of the fuel. and we were running 11.5 afrs which is where you wanna be under boost. if the fuel pressure were right it would nearly be as bad. my next concern is your o rings. its pretty easy to mess up the o rings on side feed injectors. buddy of mine did a ka-t with 370s and was having this probably. o rings were at fault and never got it right. blew a head gasket a couple days later. you gotta be careful and gotta know what your doing. some more details on your setup would help. and also im assuming your running a wideband. what kind are you using?

[ATLspeed]

ka24de built bottom
E-Mance Tune (never had a prob so ppl dont start)
370cc
GTi-R t28/ with s14 t28 comp housing
z32 Maf
walbro fuel pump
FMIC
3" Turbo Back
AEM Wideband
SAFC 2 (for fine tuning and if i change up injectors)

Im not running an afp regulator, I planned on getting one if i ever switch to top feed. Ive been running this set up for a year (at 10psi) and never had a prob. Im just really not sure whats going on.

[ch1873857]

if this just happened out of nowhere id start with the o rings personally

[ATLspeed]

i checked rings as well but they were ok

**The car is running like it should again, I had the battery disconnected overnight and hooked it back up this morning and its running like it should again. not sure what the problem was still tho

Thanks for the input/help tho ch1873857

[Sileighty_85]

Did you check/ Replace the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS)?

[ch1873857]

so resetting the ecu fixed it? weird.. but cool!

[ATLspeed]

ok so the sucker is still doing it, it started back running rich again after a couple runs up and down the street.

- CTS i may have to check, isn't there a way to check to see if your temp sensor is good or not by using a paperclip and jumping the coolant harness?

[VNG704]

just throwing it out there, but have you checked the ecu for codes?

[ATLspeed]

^^^
just pulled them again after resetting and i got 13 and 21

13 - Coolant Temp Circuit/Sensor
21 - Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning

*Im not sure if i caused code 13 myself by jumping the harness with a paper clip but i shall buy it and report back

[bb4_96]

i suggest you get an ls

[nismoracingsx]

ugh, bb quit posting that stupid shit in the threads >.<

Did you actually test the cts? There should be a resistance rating for it when the engine is at temp, pull it up on your corresponding fsm.

[ATLspeed]

well i swapped out the cts for a new one and its still running rich were its to the point that its hard to stay on.

*I have a drift/grip event on july 3rd and this is starting to hurt my feelings. Im too the point were Im thinking about buying new injectors (550cc-750cc) to see if that solves my problem (yes i kno its a dumb reason)

[Sileighty_85]

one thing I noticed

You said when you checked the injectors you put it to ACC, That wrong you need to put it to "ON" so that the fuel pump kicks on.

[ATLspeed]

my bad i meant to say i put it to ON so the fuel pump would kick on and add pressure. had a bottle on the tip of the injectors along with napkins to see if any leaking came about

[jbballa9876]

Did you check the filament on the MAF? whats good with the ignition signal though??

[landins13]

O2 sensor?

[ATLspeed]

I'm starting to narrow it down to fuel pump (even tho its only 2yrs old walbro) or bad fuel pressure regulator.
When i unplug the fuel pump fuse it idles smoother..but it still runs rich and i cant give it gas

- the maf screen/sensor is ok, I'm able to unplug the maf and the car runs the same. Doesn't go past 3k like it should while unplugged
- I don't run an o2 sensor with my ecu tune

[ch1873857]

it still runs rich even then the fuel pump is unhooked? and of course you cant give it gas. it sounds like injector o-rings still. i dont know man.

[ATLspeed]

Thats the thing, I would have thought it would have been injector o-rings to but I have even install a new set of injectors. So I'm believe fuel pressure is my culprit.

To my understanding and searching if there is too much fuel pressure (or bad fpr) it will cause the motor to run rich or flood. Also if i build up fuel pressure and pull the fuse it will start and run smoother because the fuel pressure is dropping as the injectors get rid of the fuel in the lines.

[clain]

You changed the single wire CTS for the temp gauge or the CTS that has 2 wires going to the ecu?

[ATLspeed]

You changed the single wire CTS for the temp gauge or the CTS that has 2 wires going to the ecu?

The CTS for the ecu (2 wire)

[DeatschWerks]

It weird how problems show themselves after a completely unrelated modification or change.

You didn't unhook any grounds to get to the mounts and forget to put them back on? Shot in the dark and I'm probably way off the mark...but I've curved bullets before. ;)

[younghatchowner]

pull ur injector out..the seals are bad..hapened to my car..or your injectors are having a stiffy..its your injectors..promise

[blackoutt]

Any updates on this? I'm having a similar problem with similar setup and done similar checks. Haven't checked FPR pressures though.

[greenzenki86]

yeah from the sounds of it id check the injectors too, pull them all off and do each one individually. I had a similar issue with my KA when I first got it.