Couple of issues with an S13 - brakes, gas, etc.

[SupaDoopa]

I picked up a 91 S13 hatch with a S14 KA-T with a T28. There are a couple issues. The car originally came with Super HICAS. It was removed from the subframe to pipe. The cars ABS also rarely works as is the light is on. The problem is when I hit the brake pedal, it goes all the way to the bottom and slowly slows the car down. I checked fluids and can't seem to figure it out I will be checking the lines to make sure they aren't leaking, but if someone has an idea, that'd be good too.

Also, if I'm driving and then hit it in neutral to come to a stop, when the car is warmed up, it will stall out. The car idles at 700-800 when first started. I would like to think it has something to do with the IACV but I'm not sure if it's the tune. It has E-Manage but driving, it seems fine - it's when I stop that it gives me an issue.

They seem like small issues and the obvious cures I will be looking at but would like second thoughts in case what I am looking at all seems clear.

Thanks for the help, guys.

[Rabboni]

The brake problem sounds to me like bad seals in your master cylinder. probably just get a master cylinder and fix the problem.

[SupaDoopa]

It's what I was looking at. I am picking one up tomorrow. The ABS and stalling is what have me confused.

[dreamin240sx]

just unplug the abs. i did this in my s-10 truck and i can actually stop now but the down side is that you dont have abs of course but that shit sucks so who needs it anyways.

[SupaDoopa]

I was told the ABS was unplugged but I will be doing so. I don't feel the ABS working anyways and the light is on. Have a diagram?

[Rabboni]

If the abs light is on that means the system detects a fault. If abs detects a fault then it will not function at all. Abs systems that old are really simple, and it is probably a really simple problem like a wheel speed sensor.

[SupaDoopa]

A speed sensor would make the cars brakes almost feel like they're not there?

[projectRDM]

It's easy to tell if the ABS is unplugged, just look at the actuator, there's a large 2pin plug, red and black leads. If it's unplugged, you have no ABS. As for the pedal pressure, there may very well be air in the lines, but *if* the actuator is still plugged in you'll never bleed it all out. The actuator has to be disconnected in order to properly bleed the lines.

[SupaDoopa]

I'm going to try a new master cylinder/brake booster and see if the issue is fixed. If not, I'll have to check the lines.

[two40oz]

please post results, i think i might have the same problem, thanks

[Motoskin]

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER!!! change it

[rollout240]

re-bleed all your breaks. good luck

[fullthrottle]

re-bleed all your breaks. good luck

Brakes msglength

[bb4_96]

re-bleed your brakes lol! wouldn't master cylinder seals allow fluid past them? Is fluid running down your firewall at a fairly extreme rate? Your stalling out might be cts or iacv.

[SupaDoopa]

I just snagged a BMS so I will be replacing that at some point today. HICAS/ABS was removed so I think that had something to do with the BMS. I'll let you guys know.

[bb4_96]

i think an ls will solve your stalling issue

[SupaDoopa]

If only I had the money for the swap, sir.

[heavenboundkevin]

i also have weak brakes and would like to forgo getting a new bmc. is that what fixed your problem?

[SupaDoopa]

Hasn't fixed it yet. The BMC I had as a spare I guess wasn't good from the previous owner so I will be looking for a Z32 full setup and will let you know.