Battery Relocation to the trunk (S13)

[KeithDigital]

I have searched many times :) The sad part is most of the pictures in the older posts are no longer there.

Getting ready to move my battery to the trunk and I have 2 questions.

1. I am going to install a Distribution Block in the Engine bay split into: Starter, Alternator, and the Fuse Box.
My problem is how do I run it to the fuse box?
This is the wire that comes out of the fuse box - It has 3 wires. I think: Left Headlight, Right Headlight, and Alternator + power for the fuse box?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f345/KeithDigital/240/DSC03744s.jpg


2. Where and how do I bolt my battery tray down in the trunk? Front towards the shock tower or rear close to the tail light?
I looked under the car and all I see is the fuel tank - how can I use a nut and bolt if the fuel tank is in the way?

[g6civcx]

I am going to install a Distribution Block in the Engine bay split into: Starter, Alternator, and the Fuse Box

Problem. The battery is not connected directly to the alternator. There is a 75/100A fuse between the alternator and the battery positive terminal.

My problem is how do I run it to the fuse box?
This is the wire that comes out of the fuse box - It has 3 wires. I think: Left Headlight, Right Headlight, and Alternator + power for the fuse box?

The headlight power shouldn't be pulled straight from the battery. Everything goes through the fusebox.

This is really simple. Assuming you have a stock harness, all you need to do is take the positive battery terminal, cut off the battery terminal with integrated plugs.

Anything that was connected to the positive battery wire should be reconnected with the distribution block. Then you hook the battery positive to the distribution block.

You should not need to mess with the starter since the stock wiring is already there to connect the starter to the positive wire.

Where and how do I bolt my battery tray down in the trunk? Front towards the shock tower or rear close to the tail light?
I looked under the car and all I see is the fuel tank - how can I use a nut and bolt if the fuel tank is in the way?

Self-tapping screws. Weld. There are a lot of options.

[KeithDigital]

So the wire in the picture - you are saying to cut off the Green and Gray connectors and take those 3 wires and connect them to the distribution block?

[g6civcx]

Cut off all wires attached to the integrated positive terminal. Connect all wires to the distribution block. Then conect the block to the battery positive terminal.

Make sure you use a thick wire to the trunk. At least 2 gauge or even bigger like 1 or 0.

[S-Nation S13]

i have 2 guage wire insulated and then wrapped in fuel line where ever the wire touches the body lol MAKE SURE YOU WRAP GOOD OR ELSE YOU'LL GO UP IN SMOKE !!!! been really lazy but the next thing i have to do is put an inline 75a fuse is it best to put the fuse nearest to the positive terminal? sorry to thread jack but didnt want to start a new one

[S-Nation S13]

as for those positive terminals i just cut off the connector and used a worm screw to bond them together i know ghetto but until i can find away to put them together it'll do ....i guess

[KeithDigital]

S-Nation - I am going to use a 100 Amp Circuit Breaker close to the battery. And how to bond your wires - use a distribution block like this:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c336/impreza2000/engine/011be962.jpg

[KeithDigital]

Keep getting IM's on this, here is what I used to relocate my battery:
(Purchased most of the parts on eBay)

Optima Yellow Top D51R (Honda) (smallest and lightest optima ~ 26 lbs) $145.00
Artec Aluminum Battery Mount for Group 51 Optima Battery (1.75 lbs) $56.00
18' of 2 gauge Power/Ground Wire - (Monster Cable color: Silver) $40.00
2 gauge 5/16" Ring Terminals (Tsunami RTN5) Gold - 5 pack $11.00
Power/Ground Distribution Block (XScorpion GDB0248P) In 2, Out 4,4,8,8 $14.00
100 Amp Circuit Breaker (Tsunami CB100) $22.00
Battery Terminals (Stinger) pair in Gold $9.00
4' of 4 gauge Power/Ground Wire - (Tsunami color: Silver) $8.00
4 gauge 5/16" Ring Terminals (No Name) Gold - 4 pack $5.00
3/8" Black Convoluted Split Loom - 25' (To cover 4 gauge) $6.00
1/2" Black Convoluted Split Loom - 25' (To cover 2 gauge) $6.50
Total: $322.50

(The 4 gauge wire and ring terminals is used to re-wire the starter and add a ground in the engine bay, you can use stock wires if you want. I also bought the split loom to keep the stock look in the engine bay.)

[Mikester]

Dude:

Cut off your engine bay positive battery terminal and mount a terminal lug on the wire like so:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8858701771_02df776f72_c_d.jpg

Then run your positive cable up from the trunk... I ran mine thru the fender well & frame rail:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8859317726_16afc52fbe_c_d.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8536/8858713119_9633b81684_c_d.jpg

Once you get the positive cable into the bay how you want it, go ahead and put the terminal on it... Then, using a regular nut/bolt, tie everything together like this (FYI you will need to grind a bit on the terminal with the two connectors a bit to flatten it to fit nice n' tight):

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/8861771937_a520131a20_c_d.jpg

May look a little messy at first glance; but with some decent wrapping & stashing, it comes out quite nice:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2887/8862397752_29b2f323b2_c_d.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5452/8885617686_0fab4f675a_b_d.jpg

^^This way, you still have the main engine fuse protecting everything from a power surge of any kind, and with an additional inline 75-100A fuse downstream close to the positive terminal; you will be all set!

As far as where to mount your box, just remember that you may need access to the fuel pump down the road, and make 100% SURE that the ground you choose is good. I mounted mine on the driver's side; but only because fuel pump access & my trunk cross brace dictated where it was gonna go:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3814/8811826451_0f07f3469c_b_d.jpg


Mounting it there, you will have access between the spare tire well, gas tank and frame rails to mount the bolts... Just take the muffler out of the way. I ran the wiring thru the interior panels & the vent out the OEM moisture drain behind the rear fender well for a clean look... Note the ground on the strut tower brace bracket. Make sure you use a circuit breaker (not a fuse) inline by the battery terminal. It still performs the same function as a fuse; but leaves you a way to instantly & easily kill power to the car for maintenance~

Hope this helps!

BTW just re-read initial post. You can do the very same thing as above- Except instead of tying everything together like I did; you can just put each of those things on their own terminals along with whatever else you want on your distribution block.

Mike

[cured13]

Clean job Mikester, but:
all that heavy wire going forward, up, down and then back through the framerail might actually add more weight than one more battery altogether.
Wouldn't be easier to make a small hole in the firewall with a grommet and lead that wire under centre console and rear seat to the trunk?
Also I think close to strut tower is a better location and shorter wire (these are heavy)
unless you'll never use your lifter to change spare tire.

If you decide not to have spare in your trunk then buying shorter battery and installing it where spare goes is the best in my opinion.

[cured13]

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/19044582+w750+st0/0907phr_08_z+2010_chevy_camaro+trunk_mount_battery .jpg



http://rmoore.dyndns.org/~rmoore/f10_trunk/f10_trunk_002.jpg

somethink like that

[cured13]

or should I say ,
that
http://members.cruzio.com/~dane/66%20Coronet/Trunk%20battery/Trunk%20mount%20battery.jpg