Anyone using a DIF fan controller? i need help!

[2fast4y0u]

i have a sr redtop. i bought a DIF fan controller and i hooked it all up according to the instructions. i dont think that the coolant temp sensor is working properly because my fans turn on instantly and dont run very long when i shut the car off.
i dont have the switch connected to override the settings.

is my coolant temp sensor bad, or am i doing something wrong. :wtf:
please tell/show me how yours is hooked up so i can make mine work properly


Thanks,
Jay

[JohnnyDrfiter22]

I hooked mine up to according to instructions and mine would surge than shut off. so i unpugged it and now run my fans to a constant with a switch.

[glitched]

did you use those inline splice connectors to connect to the wires to your temp sensor?

If so, have you used a multi meter to check the resistance?

Is your DIF controller the old nissan specific one, or the universal one that you have to program?

[2fast4y0u]

i did use the inline connectors. i wasnt sure how to check the resistance...im not new to electrical stuff but i never got that far into it to.

its the universal that needs to be programmed. did the programming like 100 times(no joke) and cant get it to work properly

[glitched]

definitely check the resistance then. Sometimes those inline splicers just dont work.

take a multimeter that can and measure resistance
Measure from the end of the wire that connect to the DIF controller
to the little mettal slab that you compress that sticks out the side. (you'll probably have to open up the plastic cover)

If the connections good you'll see the meter jump.

Then also disconnect the temp sensor.
stick a piece of wire thats been stripped at both ends into the connector you just disconnected
Now measure from the metal slab to this wire.

if the meter doesnt jump, then the splicer did not work.

Also, I'm not familiar with SR temp sensors, but you sure you have the right temp sensor?

[Om1kron]

Also those dif fan controllers have built in relays that can only support a certain amount of amperage. They have a heavy duty version of the one they sell that can support a 40amp draw like the ford taurus fan but you have to do some searching for it.

the version 1 and version 2 controllers have failed on multiple people and they end up having to use one of those switches mentioned.

[2fast4y0u]

i will see if my meter can do resistance. im sure it can, its not a cheap one.

i have altima fan and i talked to the dude at heavy throttle/phase2motor trend and he said no problem. I will say that the customer service they have provided has been awesome. i just cant seem to make these things work properly and im pissed because that controller wasnt cheap!

[glitched]

I ran a series 1 DIF controller with altima fans for like 2 years and never had a problem with them.

[2fast4y0u]

what is your resistance at the sensor...and to make sure im going to the right one, im using the sensor on the intake manifold side, near the thermostat. its a 2 wire sensor i believe. i have my car here at the shop so i can go look. also, my buddy is bringing me his bad ass multi meter today so i can check the resistance.

[glitched]

What the resistance is shouldnt really matter.

What matters is that there's a reading at all. If there's no reading, then the splicer did not slice through the wires sheath and is not touchin the metal wire.

In addition to running the series 1 for 2 years, i'm now also in process of installing the same one you have. Those splicers are weak ass. one wire got it on hte first try, the other wire took me three times with three splicers (you may want to pick up some more)

[2fast4y0u]

i see. well i will try the clips again and see what the deal is. hopefully its just the clips. i might just hardwire that thing in.

[Andres_G]

I recently switched over from some autozone (working) fan relay to this...

http://i1.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/DIF_DFC01_1.jpg

and the piece of crap isn't working.

I verified it's getting power, fan wires are spliced in, ground is good to go, wires are spliced in to the coolent temp sensor (blue/org & black wires), I even hooked up a rocker switch to "override" and this bisch still won't turn on my fans. WTF?

Can't even get the programing in order to pulse the fans... like the instructions say to do so.

At least i'm not the only one that is having problems with this.

[mxexux]

Yeah, I've never used the DIF one but I have whatever brand pepboys carries. Its a fan relay kit that comes with it's own sensor. I've been running this for ~2 years now with absolutely no issues. I have it wired for switched power so they only come on when temp is >140 and the car is on...

[Andres_G]

Yeah, I've never used the DIF one but I have whatever brand pepboys carries. Its a fan relay kit that comes with it's own sensor. I've been running this for ~2 years now with absolutely no issues. I have it wired for switched power so they only come on when temp is >140 and the car is on...

is this the one you were running?

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/der-16769_w.jpg

This is what I had, but it kept my fans on for tooooo long after the car was shut off, and it drained my battery one too many times. I got tired of getting jumped and push starting my car:mad: I though DIF was a good brand, how can this subpar controller be better?

[nismoracingsx]

It might not be that it's better, just that you got a bad unit..happens all the time, no matter what brand you use..i use the controller made by flexalite and it's still doin' good 2 years down the road..

[mxexux]

is this the one you were running?

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/der-16769_w.jpg

This is what I had, but it kept my fans on for tooooo long after the car was shut off, and it drained my battery one too many times. I got tired of getting jumped and push starting my car:mad: I though DIF was a good brand, how can this subpar controller be better?

No it's not that one. I can't take a look right now since I'm at work. But it uses a sensor that looks kinda like a brass fitting and the relay is the Bosch type.

[2fast4y0u]

i have a DIF and im starting to hate it. runs all the time with the temps maxxed out even. pisses me off that i spent that much on a good controller and its sucks

[blktopsr20]

thats why a clutch fan is just perfectly fine imo. been running it for 4 years no issues.

[brokeAs240sx]

Can't even get the programing in order to pulse the fans... like the instructions say to do so.

At least i'm not the only one that is having problems with this.

Of course it's not going to work if you can't program it. I feel you on the programming part - it's not the simplest thing in the world, but it's doable. You have to really read the instructions.

None of the other stuff you hooked up matters until you can program it correctly.

I found that it's easiest to NOT mount the fan controller until you have programmed it. Just run wires for the 12v/ign/ground/fans/etc as per the programming instructions, get it to pulse, THEN hook it up the normal way.

If you are still having a difficult time, try contacting dif directly (http://diftech.com/contact-us.html); someone there may be able to walk you through the programming steps.

My dual dif was running for the 2-3 years I had it installed powering my altima fans on high w/o any major issues. The only problems I had w/ it were usually because of install error or some other unrelated issue.

I run a pwm one now. Now that one is a pain to program; after that, smooth sailing.

Not sure why 2fast4y0u's runs all the time, but mine rarely turns on during daily driving if there's not much traffic... have you verified your temp sensor readings.

[Andres_G]

I followed these instructions: I cannot get it to pulse for shit. Did you do anything different?
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/scan0003.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/scan0004.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/scan0005.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/scan0006.jpg

[brokeAs240sx]

i believe the programming is only for the coolant temp sensor, so let's try this:

1) connect your fans DIRECTLY to the battery (w/ a fuse inline of course). if it powers. at least you got that out of the way.

If it's not working @ this point, then something is up w/ the fans.

2) connect your dif controller to the battery & fans' positive wires (forget the sensor for now) & manual switch (i.e. just tie the black wires together).

If it doesn't work @ this point, something's wrong w/ the controller probably, contact dif.

[Andres_G]

I know for a fact my fans are working. I have them hooked up to a $20 fan controller from autozone.

So...tying the black wires simulates the switch? Step 2 of Programing?

[glitched]

yeah, i've had both the old style(nissan only) and new style(programmable) of dif controllers.. while programming the new one, i remember thinking, that i cant beleive they expect average customers to be able to do this... but i got it programmed eventually.

Of course it's not going to work if you can't program it. I feel you on the programming part - it's not the simplest thing in the world, but it's doable. You have to really read the instructions.

None of the other stuff you hooked up matters until you can program it correctly.

I found that it's easiest to NOT mount the fan controller until you have programmed it. Just run wires for the 12v/ign/ground/fans/etc as per the programming instructions, get it to pulse, THEN hook it up the normal way.

If you are still having a difficult time, try contacting dif directly (Contact us - DIF Performance Tuning Products (http://diftech.com/contact-us.html)); someone there may be able to walk you through the programming steps.

My dual dif was running for the 2-3 years I had it installed powering my altima fans on high w/o any major issues. The only problems I had w/ it were usually because of install error or some other unrelated issue.

I run a pwm one now. Now that one is a pain to program; after that, smooth sailing.

Not sure why 2fast4y0u's runs all the time, but mine rarely turns on during daily driving if there's not much traffic... have you verified your temp sensor readings.

[2fast4y0u]

i do exactly what the directions say and with the dials set to 0 and 4 i get 4 pulses....perfect! then disconnect the power and set dials to 0 and 2, and reconnect power, i get fans running!!! FUCK!

[glitched]

i do exactly what the directions say and with the dials set to 0 and 4 i get 4 pulses....perfect! then disconnect the power and set dials to 0 and 2, and reconnect power, i get fans running!!! FUCK!

are you disconnecting / turning the switch off to exit programming mode when you disconnect power?

[Andres_G]

i believe the programming is only for the coolant temp sensor, so let's try this:

1) connect your fans DIRECTLY to the battery (w/ a fuse inline of course). if it powers. at least you got that out of the way.

If it's not working @ this point, then something is up w/ the fans.

2) connect your dif controller to the battery & fans' positive wires (forget the sensor for now) & manual switch (i.e. just tie the black wires together).

If it doesn't work @ this point, something's wrong w/ the controller probably, contact dif.

So...I was able to get this thing to pulse after I hooked up the two black wires for the switch!

Now for "PROGRAMMING THE DIF DUAL FAN CONTROLLER"
I got through all the steps successfully...but then the instructions aren't that clear to me. For example, what happens to the black wires? do they stay connected or unconnected or does it even matter?

Under "OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS"
It says that after programming the unit, to start the car and let it warm up to operating temp and have the dials to 0 & 2 and the fans will turn on within 20 minutes.

Well, my car was already at operating temp before I turned it on and the fans did not kick in! WTF?

[glitched]

having the two wires together is the same as having a toggle switch set to on.

this is how you enter programming mode when applying power.

If you still have the switch set to on when you apply power again, your still in programming mode and not in operation mode.

[2fast4y0u]

are you disconnecting / turning the switch off to exit programming mode when you disconnect power?

good question. I will try that tomorrow and see what happens. my car has been in for paint for 2 months so i have forgottend exactly what i did for step by step

[Andres_G]

How would I wire this switch in to those black wires? I'm a little confused..:smash: Will this switch even work?
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/2010-10-11173506.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andres1986/DIF%20instructions/2010-10-11173455.jpg

[Andres_G]

nvm, i figured it out

[s14unimog]

I've never had a problem with mine. Maybe you have another problem.

[Andres_G]

Well I sent in my dif in for warranty and they confirmed that it was a faulty unit. I just installed the new version "D" and it seems to be working good! Just gotta run my toggle switch and and AC wires and I should be done! This this thing nice when its working properly.

[2fast4y0u]

hmm might have to send mine in then.

[Andres_G]

Did you ever check the voltage at your coolant sensor?

Just to give you a reference, on mine when my aftermarket gauge reads 182F I get 1.20 volts and @ 85F I get 3.16 volts at the sensor.

What are you getting?

[2fast4y0u]

i have but dont remember what it is. my electrical tester doesnt do ohms so i cant check resistance like they suggeset