KA24DE IACV & air regulator delete?

[Matej]

Hello everyone.
I have been told it is alright to remove the IACV along with the air regulator and the motor will still idle fine, as long as some bolt on the throttle body is adjusted, which would keep the throttle body slightly ajar in its 'closed' state.
Can anyone please confirm if this is true?

Also, after doing so, could the MAF be coupled directly to the throttle body, or would there still need to be some distance between the two?

Thank you for any information. :)

[mxexux]

Don't think this will work if its a daily driver. You will need to never turn on your A/C; your EGR will need to be removed. Also the motor relies heavily on the IACV to control idle on cold starts when it is running very rich. IACV also performs a dashpot action that brings revs down smoothly to idle when ever you let off the gas suddenly; without this the motor might stall.

Why do you want to remove it anyways?

[Matej]

IACV also performs a dashpot action that brings revs down smoothly to idle when ever you let off the gas suddenly; without this the motor might stall.
Hmm, did not know that.

Other than that, my car does not have A/C or the EGR, so those two would not be a problem.
Reason I am curious is because I even saw this in the instructions for installing the Xcessive manifold (Step 14: Xcessive Manufacturing (http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/articles.ihtml?pid=31&step=2)), so I was thinking about trying it with the stock manifold.

I would also like to connect the MAF with a coupler directly to the throttle body, if that was possible. With the IACV, there is a bung necessary between the throttle body and MAF for the IACV hose to connect to.

[mxexux]

I've never installed anything like that, but it seems like to make it work the idle will probably have to be set really high like 2K rpm. Maybe some body that has installed that can chime in...

[projectRDM]

Removing both leaves you with zero idle adjustment. Not a good idea. The remote kit is for use with the ECU, you can delete it when running a standalone as it will handle idle control differently.

[Matej]

Removing both leaves you with zero idle adjustment. Not a good idea. The remote kit is for use with the ECU, you can delete it when running a standalone as it will handle idle control differently.
Ah ok, thank you for clearing it up.
What I thought is that the idle would be adjusted by having the throttle blade slightly open even at idle and just adjusting how far it is open, and that would be enough. But now I am assuming that still would not be convenient for cold starts.
Guess I will end up keeping the IACV and air regulator after all.

[Matej]

By the way, this is a newbie question, but what does the air regulator do? Is it basically a part of the IACV system, do they depend on each other, or are they two different parts doing two different things? I am curious how necessary the regulator is, if I keep the IACV.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/44064/upperandlower.jpg


For example, on this car (one of my favorite engine bays) I noticed that the owner decided to run two separate lines for the IACV and the air regulator. I have wondered why.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b244/elitistprick/russfronthood8pf.jpg

[steve_o1989]

Kind of an old thread but whatevs

As far as I know, the air regulator is responsible for controlling the amount of air the engine sees depending on temperature. It is able to open and close to allow more or less air. Some vehicles that have issues with high idle because this valve sticks open allowing in excess air all the time.