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View Full Version : S13 Redtop Power FC D-Jetro Questions


traxx07
03-17-2010, 12:09 AM
Ok, here I go.

1. I know it's plug and play. But being that it eliminates the MAF is there anyway I can run it until I get it tuned? I heard it comes with a stock base MAP. So is it safe to drive on it till I tune it?

2. Where do I put the actual MAP sensor? Pics?

3. Do I just cut the MAF connections?

LMK Thanks and if anyone can show some pics of everything it will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again!

midnight_rex
03-17-2010, 02:14 AM
the PFC should come with its own Air temp sensor which proly should be a 1/4 npt. you tap this mainly on the intake manifold somewhere. the map sensor should hook up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold.

i dont know too much about the PFC ems but i do know those are the 2 things to plant when going speed density :)

army240
03-17-2010, 08:39 AM
1. You have to do an Idle Learn procedure. about 30 min. in total... so yes, you can drive it as you want, just be gentle with the car(I wouldn't recommend track/race)

2. Any intake Vacuum source, from the upper hose of the TB

3. Do what you want with the connector, just don't twist each wire together.

Frank

traxx07
03-17-2010, 02:41 PM
Thanks guys and um how do I tap the air temp sensor in? Ill be trying all this tomorrow when it is delivered. No not going to race it or anything like that just want to drive it around.

SoguRacing
03-17-2010, 02:46 PM
identify and put the pins in the ecu i believe. i'd find a schematic and a ecu pin chart. the basemap should be fine to run. they're just tuned extra rich to prevent detonation.

traxx07
03-17-2010, 06:26 PM
I mean how and where do I tap in the actual AirTemp Sensor.... not the plug.

Could I use the Enthalpy base MAP?

jspaeth
03-17-2010, 06:36 PM
I mean how and where do I tap in the actual AirTemp Sensor.... not the plug.

Could I use the Enthalpy base MAP?


Some people say Intake Manifold, others say cold pipe, right before the throttle body.

Mine is in the cold pipe and works fine. Used a tap to cut threads into the cold pipe CAREFULLY.

Then use some teflon tape to create a tighter seal.

traxx07
03-18-2010, 05:18 PM
Ok got it in the mail today and does anyone know which wires the AirTemp taps into?

Also what size of a TAP do I need and where can I get the TAP?

jspaeth
03-18-2010, 06:22 PM
Ok got it in the mail today and does anyone know which wires the AirTemp taps into?

Also what size of a TAP do I need and where can I get the TAP?


Stop being so lazy! Take the sensor to the hardware store and try different nuts out on it to see what size and pitch.

come on....

and also search. I did an entire write up on how to wire the IAT sensor into the ECU for a PFC.

laaaaaaaazy

steve shadows
03-19-2010, 03:10 PM
The IAT needs to be placed before the throttle body on the Cold Pipe, usually I put them about 6 inches away on the underside of the cold pipe.

The MAP sensor can come off any source off the intake manifold that sees true vacuum and boost. Make sure you arent using one of the sources on the TB that only shows pressure (there is a nipple on there that is a check valve and only allows positive boost read).


In terms of driving it around before dyno tuning is done?

This is why I started offering a base map service. The japanese units come over with an EXTREMELY overly advanced timing map and a fuel map that is not specific to your aftermarket injectors.

The fuel map is ok if you are just using stock 370 CC but if you are upgrading there is a lot that can be improved on even from a base map perspective.

Shadowerks (http://www.shadowerks.com)

Check out my options, or PM me, the base map service is super cheap and helps Power FC, Haltech, AEM or other EMS users get a quick base map that is specifically tailored to their car's modifications, injectors and setup. Some users have even used the base map alone to drive on years before dyno tuning, finding that many of my maps are almost spot on and need very little fine tuning on the dyno. This will help cut down on the time the dyno shop will need to tune the car also, saving some more money

slider2828
03-19-2010, 03:24 PM
Stop being so lazy! Take the sensor to the hardware store and try different nuts out on it to see what size and pitch.

come on....

and also search. I did an entire write up on how to wire the IAT sensor into the ECU for a PFC.

laaaaaaaazy

And a DAMN good write up he did. I followed it.... I screwed it one with rtv actually.... that for sure seals it... Then I jb welded the nut if you dunno how to weld.... Easy and done....

steve shadows
03-19-2010, 03:29 PM
And a DAMN good write up he did. I followed it.... I screwed it one with rtv actually.... that for sure seals it... Then I jb welded the nut if you dunno how to weld.... Easy and done....

Don't JB weld....

haha

Com'on

I have found some of those that leaked before.

Just take the pipe to a local shop and have them braze it for 20 bucks

traxx07
03-19-2010, 05:30 PM
Stop being so lazy! Take the sensor to the hardware store and try different nuts out on it to see what size and pitch.

come on....

and also search. I did an entire write up on how to wire the IAT sensor into the ECU for a PFC.

laaaaaaaazy

If you don't want to help then fine but don't cry about me not searching. I have searched and found other installs but only in other cars. When it comes to electrical I don't take chances and rather ask my questions on a new thread. If I bumped an old thread you would be the first to call me a noob for bumping an old thread. So if I ask questions I'm lazy and if I bump old threads I'm stupid. It's a forum and I made a thread.... stop bitcccchhhhinnnnng.

Thanks Steve I sent you a PM.


Edit- Just found your link to the how to and thanks but if you wanted to help a link would have done wonders. Here is the link for anyone that finds this thread and needs help.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/170290-powerfc-d-jetro-setup-pictures.html

army240
03-19-2010, 08:06 PM
Don't JB weld....

haha

Com'on

I have found some of those that leaked before.

Just take the pipe to a local shop and have them braze it for 20 bucks

Or do like I did, make a bung, and weld it on the cold pipe... can't leak for sure!

Frank