Heim joint sway bar endlinks

[az_240]

Has anyone figured out how to piece their own together using parts from Mcmaster or a similar site?

I'm specifically looking at the rears.

I would try to piece my own together for my ST rear bar but do not have the money to do the trial and error thing.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/livinglegendlll/linkswayspl.jpg
^SPLs rear endlinks.

[wh0aitznic0]

I have absolutely NO idea how those even work!

But they look ballin as hell.

[az_240]

^um similar to the stock endlinks... only solid and adjustable.

[JVDSKYRINE]

Some companies come with solid ones for the front....not sure on rear though

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

threaded clevis joints + rod ends? looks like a pretty simple order to me.....

[wh0aitznic0]

Looks like climbing equipment.

[az_240]

Some companies come with solid ones for the front....not sure on rear though


Yes but the bars are heavy and expensive as shit.


I'm sure it is an easy order but as I said I do not have the money to spend if it does not work out and I need to get other parts.

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

you don't have to buy it. it is possible to measure the dimensions you want and price it out. as far as other people having done this before, i would probably guess that most people on this site would tell you to not support knockoffs and buy the SPL links.

[C-unit]

for the trouble n time spend making those...just go buy some SPL..

[drift freaq]

you don't have to buy it. it is possible to measure the dimensions you want and price it out. as far as other people having done this before, i would probably guess that most people on this site would tell you to not support knockoffs and buy the SPL links.

Most people would be idiots, if they think your buying knockoffs. If you are going out and buying quality heim joints aka Aurora and whatnot.

In other words you can get high quality heim joints if you know what to look for through many sources. It does not make them knock offs.

[yarou]

Seriously. SPL didn't manufacture those parts either, they just buy those parts and piece them together for your application, for your convenience. There's almost no r&d involved.

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

well, i was being ironic, but anyways, yeah. the only r&d is probably the time it takes to measure everything, which is what i had suggested. i bet you could get everything you need for less than $150.

[yarou]

Yeah I know, just sayin' :naw:

here's a cheap example that could work depending on your application

The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts: Sway Bar Adjustable End Links (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC12/23-4115)

[az_240]

you don't have to buy it. it is possible to measure the dimensions you want and price it out. as far as other people having done this before, i would probably guess that most people on this site would tell you to not support knockoffs and buy the SPL links.


Not sure how I'd be supporting knock offs.

There is more to it than just measure and buy stuff.... you have to take into consideration the possibility of binding or something not fitting correctly etc.

I'm sure they are quality pieces but I'm not about to drop $250 on some endlinks.

That is the reason why I made this thread.... to see if anyone has pieced together their own for cheaper.

If not, no biggie. I will use the shitty poly ones I have until I have the money to RnD my own

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

again. irony.



i don't see how sway bar endlinks could bind, really. maybe it's not apparent to me, but i don't think that the range of motion of the links is anywhere near the maximum articulation of a typical heim joint. the point of having two heims is to prevent the only possible binding, which would be through side to side load. i dunno. i'm just an aerodynamics guy, but from my general engineering understanding, it should work as long as you aren't contacting the insides of the clevis joints, i.e. buy wide clevis joints. race car engineering is a lot of trial and error. if you have doubts, honestly, just buy the SPL links.

[az_240]

^Your posts are worthless.

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

sorry, i'm taking the long way of telling you to do it yourself, in a not dickish way. any jackass off the street should know how to reverse engineer something. apparently not.

[az_240]

^What you say half the time does not even make sense and you rarely contribute any information worth reading. I suggest you stop post whoring. You are only embarassing yourself.

[rage]

Yeah I know, just sayin' :naw:

here's a cheap example that could work depending on your application

The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts: Sway Bar Adjustable End Links (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC12/23-4115)

urethane, grosss

[yarou]

^What you say half the time does not even make sense and you rarely contribute any information worth reading. I suggest you stop post whoring. You are only embarassing yourself.

You're taking this pretty seriously, sir. You could in fact be spending your time measuring your bushings, looking at those SPL parts, and trying to find similar ones on jegs/summit/mcmasters instead of scheming up such hateful sentences. :naw:

[Taniguchi_Is_#1]

^What you say half the time does not even make sense and you rarely contribute any information worth reading. I suggest you stop post whoring. You are only embarassing yourself.

LOL. i don't feel that embarrassed, really. i at least know how to use a ruler and mcmaster.com, so i don't see how you're in a better situation. anywho, good luck with being poor and lazy.

[wh0aitznic0]

^Your posts are worthless.

Hahaha I was DYING.

[Wabash9000]

from mcmaster
4483T601 2x
4483T261 2x
1583T601 4x
1/2-20 bolts 4x
1/2-20 nut 2x

from what I could tell that would work.. but I don't think it would work that well and it would be about $220 for the parts. I don't think DIY is worth it in this case.


also don't mean to be a naysayer, but if you don't have the money for the spl one's, what's the point? most people run stock, or es, or megan endlinks with virtually no problems. It just doesn't seem worth the extra money unless you really have the cast to spend on it.

[lflkajfj12123]

^What you say half the time does not even make sense and you rarely contribute any information worth reading. I suggest you stop post whoring. You are only embarassing yourself.

7IOuiHwgCXw

[racepar1]

from mcmaster
4483T601 2x
4483T261 2x
1583T601 4x
1/2-20 bolts 4x
1/2-20 nut 2x

from what I could tell that would work.. but I don't think it would work that well and it would be about $220 for the parts. I don't think DIY is worth it in this case.


also don't mean to be a naysayer, but if you don't have the money for the spl one's, what's the point? most people run stock, or es, or megan endlinks with virtually no problems. It just doesn't seem worth the extra money unless you really have the cast to spend on it.

Nah, look at QA1. Waaaaayyyyyyyy better prices and parts.

Getting the rod ends, jam nuts, bolts, washers, and nuts is cheap and REALLY easy. The problem is that you will have to make the brackets that attach the rod ends to the FLCA's and the brackets for both sides if you want to make some for the rear as well. I've looked everywhere I can think of for clevis joints/brackets that will work and have found nothing. Although those are really not hard to make at all so it's not that big of a deal.

[SoSideways]

I'm just copying and pasting my reply over there on the NRR board.


I'm looking into maybe buying some A36 rectangle tubing from Onlinemetals dot com with 0.12" walls, with a height of 1" and a width of 1.5"

With one of those bars, I can just cut down one of the walls to make them into a U or C (however you wanna look at it) shaped bracket to bolt the rod ends to, much like the SPL or Progress ones.

And per what Def said as well, I'm looking at these rod ends from McMaster-Carr's website for this project:

2458K141 - 3/8-24 male shank rod end w/ CF race
2458K341 - 3/8-24 female shank rod end w/ CF race

Those should work nicely on the GS arms.

Once I get more moneys for the car I will look into those, but for now, I am just going to get the arms on the cars first to see how far off I am going to be before I even think about end links, as they may have to be longer than what I am thinking right now anyway, due to the arms being spaced down now.