Rack & Pinion Boot is torn

[Debo]

On my S14 the rack and pinion boot is torn on the drivers side. Its leaking power steerting fluid. Does that mean the R&P is messed up???

What is all involved on replacing the boot. Obviously I have to remove the tie rod. Do I need any special tools? How long should it take?

[ManoNegra]

No need to remove the tie rod
unbolt the tie rod end and the old boot will simply slip out
install is the reverse: slip it over the tie rod and secure it in place with a tie down

but


if you're leaking ATF (our cars DO NOT use power steering fluid)
then you need to either rebuild or replace the rack
sometimes the joint inside the boot are packed with grease
and when the boot tears the grease oozes out

double check, if you have grease then replace the boot
if you're leaking ATF then it's time to replace the rack which is PITA

good luck,

-Juan

[Debo]

Sounds easy enough! Whats the best way to mark the tie-rod end so that it goes back in the same place???

[ManoNegra]

You don't need to mark it
you simply unbolt the out tie rod end from the spindle
and it will simply drop
then replace the boot and bolt everything back up
shouldn't mess with your alignment at all

[projectRDM]

You don't need to mark it
you simply unbolt the out tie rod end from the spindle
and it will simply drop
then replace the boot and bolt everything back up
shouldn't mess with your alignment at all

Um, no. The boot won't slip past the tie rod end. Unless you cut it, defeating the purpose of replacing it.

[jholman05]

If you're worried about keeping the alignment, mark the threads next to the lock nut with some light colored paint or wrap the threads next to the nut with duct tape.

Yea you'll want to break the nut loose holding the outter tie rod in place, then take the pin and castle nut off the outter tie rod, you'll probably have to take the nut off flip it over, thread it back on a until it's almost flush with tie rod stud, then take a hammer and hit it a few times to dislodge the tie rod end from the spindle. Unthread the outer tie rod and lock nut from the inner tie rod. Then you need to cut or undo the wire holding the boot onto the rack (I usually replace with a beefy zip tie) Now you should be able to slip the boot off and replace it.

1996 NISSAN 240SX POWER STEERING RACK AND PINION BOOT : eBay Motors (item 220352102077 end time Feb-21-10 17:15:25 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-NISSAN-240SX-POWER-STEERING-RACK-AND-PINION-BOOT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem334e023ebdQQitemZ2 20352102077QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories)

I've replaced 4 or 6 of these things so far they're holding up great.

[DALAZ_68]

Um, no. The boot won't slip past the tie rod end. Unless you cut it, defeating the purpose of replacing it.


^ that...

what i would do is first measure with tape the threaded rod portion distance...from the nut to the last thread...mark it if you like too...

then release the lock nut that tightens the outter to the inner, then release the lock nut holding to the spindle...

replace the boot, reinstall outter tie rod to the measured/marked area, re install to spindle, tighten down both nuts, re install pin and go...

if its grease itll be a bit thick and goo like, if its ATF (auto trans fluid if u didnt know, many dont) that ur leaking itll be like syrupy kind of consistency...

if it gets to the point that u have to remove the rack itself,
replace the rack bushings...

and to have a bit more clearance (and i needed it) release the nuts holding the motor mounts to the crossmember, ull be a able to jack up the motor just a bit to give you more clearance to remove the rack...

[projectRDM]

You guys do also know you don't have to remove the tie rod end from the spindle, right?

Just unscrew the tie rod from the rod end, leave the rod end secured to the spindle. Drop the tie rod down, remove and replace the boot, then screw the rod back into the rod end. Use the lock nut as your stop and you should set it almost dead on to where it was.

[ManoNegra]

lol... it's been a while
and now that I think about it, it was a torn boot that I pull through the end.

[DALAZ_68]

You guys do also know you don't have to remove the tie rod end from the spindle, right?

Just unscrew the tie rod from the rod end, leave the rod end secured to the spindle. Drop the tie rod down, remove and replace the boot, then screw the rod back into the rod end. Use the lock nut as your stop and you should set it almost dead on to where it was.


yeah, but then you would have to balance the spindle with outter and screw in the inner into the outter, i dunno personally sounds more effort than just poppin that off from the spindle and turning it...ive done it about 4 times my way, yet to fail...and honestly im one of the laziest fucks you could find...:wiggle:

[projectRDM]

yeah, but then you would have to balance the spindle with outter and screw in the inner into the outter, i dunno personally sounds more effort than just poppin that off from the spindle and turning it...ive done it about 4 times my way, yet to fail...and honestly im one of the laziest fucks you could find...:wiggle:

There's nothing complicated about it. I also suggest that because the majority of people on here don't know how to remove the tie rod end properly and just hit it with a hammer, crowning the threads and making it impossible to put the nut back on. These are 240SX owners after all.

[ryguy]

I also suggest that because the majority of people on here don't know how to remove the tie rod end properly and just hit it with a hammer, crowning the threads and making it impossible to put the nut back on.

Are you talking about hitting the spindle or the tie rod end itself? I always just whacked the spindle with a big hammer. How else can it be done?

[projectRDM]

Are you talking about hitting the spindle or the tie rod end itself? I always just whacked the spindle with a big hammer. How else can it be done?

The proper way involves a tie rod tool that clamps on the spindle and presses the rod end out. But over the years I've seen the majority of people just hit the top of the it, knocking the rod end out of the spindle. Hitting it though ruins it. Same with ball joints. Then they wonder why the nuts won't thread back on.

[DALAZ_68]

There's nothing complicated about it. I also suggest that because the majority of people on here don't know how to remove the tie rod end properly and just hit it with a hammer, crowning the threads and making it impossible to put the nut back on. These are 240SX owners after all.


ahhh yes... crucial point i forgot about...

Are you talking about hitting the spindle or the tie rod end itself? I always just whacked the spindle with a big hammer. How else can it be done?

The proper way involves a tie rod tool that clamps on the spindle and presses the rod end out. But over the years I've seen the majority of people just hit the top of the it, knocking the rod end out of the spindle. Hitting it though ruins it. Same with ball joints. Then they wonder why the nuts won't thread back on.

not to mention its like a 20 dollar rental tool at autozone?

and you get ur full deposit back...

[ryguy]

I don't hit the threaded part, I hit the knuckle, and it pops right out.

[EchaKqulo]

Guys is like $20 buck tool not $200, why don't buy it and do things the proper way. Just mark the threaded part of the inner rod with liquid paper or a sharpie and untreated it, change the boot and put it back in and thread it til your mark. No miss alignment issues.

Good Luck!!

[P_856]

i dont mean to jack his thread, but since my highpressure line was leaking everyday and i didnt want ATF to leak everywhere i used powersteering fluid and im using that now since i fixed it will it mess up my p/s pump or rack since the fsm says to use ATF

[projectRDM]

i dont mean to jack his thread, but since my highpressure line was leaking everyday and i didnt want ATF to leak everywhere i used powersteering fluid and im using that now since i fixed it will it mess up my p/s pump or rack since the fsm says to use ATF

Yes.

We discuss this weekly and have for over 20 years.

[jholman05]

I've never had a problem with taking the castle nut off flipping it upside down and threading it mostly back on to where none of the threads are visible and giving it a solid hit with the hammer. Sure you could buy the tool, or you could just do what I said. Maybe the next time I'm at the store I'll buy that tool.

I've never had a problem with damaged threads/nuts. Maybe I just like to beat on my nuts... I mean, if you damage the threads you can always put it back together with zipties, we are talking about 240 owners :Ownedd:

[Debo]

Im under the car now, and the Boot is a pain to get on the rack & pinion. The large diameter of the boot does not exactly slip on. Any tips to stretch the boot on?

[Debo]

Nevermind I got it...thanks for the help!

[DALAZ_68]

Nevermind I got it...thanks for the help!


hope u clamps that shit down with a zip tie or wire tie or something...