Harness tuck on driver side - protecting hood release cable

[g-via]

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/gsakamoto/IMG_1651.jpg


For those who have tucked their harness, do you/how do you protect your hood release cable?

I assumed that if I ziptied it tight up with the harness, the hood release would not work. I have already had problems with my hood release cable, so I don't want to dick around with it too much.

Advice?

It's pissing me off because it's now become the lowest point inside my fender....I want to push it up and curl the lip it's attached to so I can gain that 1/4"

[essforteen]

Just remove the cable from the latch and feed it through the engine bay to the latch

[mad-ass]

my S14.
Since the picture, I have relocated my hood release cable closer to the rest of the harness, just enough to have it out the way of the tires.

http://a756.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/90/l_4a624728b23820fabca1d07efcabe0a3.jpg

[Joey89s13]

hahah i have colorful zipties on mines too =)

[mad-ass]

Home Depot Racing For Life.

[Enna]

I need to do a better job on mine. Goddammit.

[g-via]

Just remove the cable from the latch and feed it through the engine bay to the latch

:rawk::rawk:

rock on.

I am going to look into this tomorrow after work.

[projectRDM]

Why do you think the cable won't work if you move it? That makes no sense.

[s13yaobling]

or get rid of it and go hood pins with lock. Works for me.

[Slidin240Wayz]

use a piece of sheetmetal

[g6civcx]

That's really just a patch. If you're hardcore unplug the dash and route the harness over the strut tower area.

You can also unbolt the hood release cable and reroute the cable as well.

[AE_Racer]

I unhooked mine from the latch and ran it through the boxed part of the top of the frame/fender, instead of having it be in my engine bay completely it comes down in front of the strut tower and you wouldn't even notice it.

[CrimsonRockett]

Why do you think the cable won't work if you move it? That makes no sense.

This.

I've had my harness/hood release cable relocated at the same spot for over 2 years now with zero problems.

You'll be fine.

[HS13KLS]

i did this.

its a little more intense. but you wont ever have rubbing problems. when i originally just tucked it i kept running into rubbing at full lock.
you have to take the dash out, unplug this huge plug where the fuses are, and a few plugs behind the dash, but it requires no cutting of the harness

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o15/schlottachki/IMG_8998.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o15/schlottachki/IMG_9003.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o15/schlottachki/IMG_9015.jpg

[Tearlessj]

Do it right, and never have to do it again.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_9812.jpg

[g-via]

Yes, I know relocating the harness is 100x more effective than tucking it.

I thought that the tension in the hood release cable would be slackened by relocating it, thus messing up the ability for it to compress the spring.

[jspaeth]

Home Depot Racing For Life.

This is awesome +59383

Why do you think the cable won't work if you move it? That makes no sense.


Because a lot of people don't get HOW it works....they assume that slack means that it can't pull.

[g-via]

it's a sheathed cable.

what's not to understand

[whiterps13]

Do it right, and never have to do it again.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_9812.jpg

Im sorry, but thats not the "right" way of doing it either.
Yeah it wont rub, but it looks like absolute shit.

[S14DB]

Im sorry, but thats not the "right" way of doing it either.
Yeah it wont rub, but it looks like absolute shit.

so Form over Function?

[Persona]

^ Should be both, but hey i like having my stuff work and look great!

[Slidin' Sam]

I made a protector for my wiring harness. I used a coffee can from a vending machine (I live in Japan, we have them everywhere), but any sort of aluminum or thin soft metal will work, and I cut the ends off and made a slit down the center. I then removed all original (IE Bulky) wiring harness protection and wrapped all my wires with e-tape. Then I wrapped the wiring harness with the cut up coffee can and used 2 small hose clamps to tighten the can to the harness and hold it in place. Just be sure to cut the excess of the hose clamps off and make sure that the smoothest ends are facing the tire (duh). This was a very easy solution and I have not had any wiring problems from rubbing since then.

[drifter_for_life06]

I made a protector for my wiring harness. I used a coffee can from a vending machine (I live in Japan, we have them everywhere), but any sort of aluminum or thin soft metal will work, and I cut the ends off and made a slit down the center. I then removed all original (IE Bulky) wiring harness protection and wrapped all my wires with e-tape. Then I wrapped the wiring harness with the cut up coffee can and used 2 small hose clamps to tighten the can to the harness and hold it in place. Just be sure to cut the excess of the hose clamps off and make sure that the smoothest ends are facing the tire (duh). This was a very easy solution and I have not had any wiring problems from rubbing since then.

maybe its just me, but I'm having trouble picturing this one.....

[DreamN]

^ What's so hard to picture? He basically wrapped it in thin sheet metal.

[Slidin' Sam]

I read it in an old dori-ten. DreamN is right, basically just wrapped the harness in thin sheet metal.

[IHasLongTorso]

i used a giant rockstar can. its will still hit it every now and then but no damage done to wires or tire. I used to have problems like once a month. my car actually started one time just by shaking the harness. lol since the rockstar can wrap. not a single problem.

[whiterps13]

so Form over Function?

No, thats not what I was saying.
Obviously his solution is functional, but the end all "right" way to do it is to reroute the harness through the frame rails, completely out of sight and out of the way.
His solution works, but its ugly as fuck. There has to be a balance somewhere.
I would never allow my car to look like that, but then again Im a huge minority on these forums.

[drifter_for_life06]

^ What's so hard to picture? He basically wrapped it in thin sheet metal.

i can see it now. I probably shouldnt read and post on here after smokin a few bowls anymore :doh:

[knate]

That's really just a patch. If you're hardcore unplug the dash and route the harness over the strut tower area.

You can also unbolt the hood release cable and reroute the cable as well.

So is going through the frame more or less hardcore then? ;)

I cut a hole in the frame rail area, put in a large grommet from a different harness, cut the harness near left headlight, fed all the wires through, and soldered everything on the other side. Sorry for the horrible cell pics..

http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs215.snc1/8235_266649045211_883415211_8985266_7656145_n.jpg

It's not fun or easy though..

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs215.snc1/8235_266649050211_883415211_8985267_5417019_n.jpg

[DreamN]

^ Exactly what I have planned to do once I'm able to place my coupe in restoration mode.

[ms!3]

im doing the same. what a BITCH.

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/153/img00085201002281458.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/i/img00085201002281458.jpg/)

cut, splice, soder. so repetitive.

[essforteen]

there is an easier way that requires no splicing or soldering but involves taking apart your fuse box!

[CrazyRob]

wow just wow.

[Corbic]

you have to take the dash out

fuck

that

[kruked]

fuck

that

You bumped a 6 year old thread just to say that?


Fuck

That.