MAY be converting GT2871R to external gate, need opinions/help

[jspaeth]

Hi....currently have a GT2871R with stock internal gate.

Plan to have my exhaust manifold extrude honed and swain-coated.

Also, I am thinking about converting this over to external gate.

What should I do?

1) Have internal gate welded shut, then have V-band wastegate flange welded to manifold?

1a) Do I need to worry about someone doing a shotty job on the flapper weld and pieces of the weld coming off into the turbine wheel?

1b) Where is the best place on the stock SR manifold to weld a WG flange?

1c) I read somewhere that it is optimal for the external gate to be mounted "at a 45* angle to the exhaust flow"....how would i achieve this?


2) What order should I do these things? Do I have the flange welded on first and then send it to EH and SwainTech, or put the flange on last?

2a) If I put the flange on first, Swain Tech said they need to bead-blast the rust off the manifold.....do I need to worry about the bead-blasting fucking up the flange?

2b) Is there any reason to think that welding the flange on after the EH process will reproduce burrs/rough spots inside the manifold?


3) Can I get a 0.64 A/R T2 exhaust housing that does NOT have the internal gate? I already have the Greddy turbo outlet, so this would require a new downpipe or turbo outlet.....is this worth the money.....are the flow characteristics better for a regular (non-internally gated) turbine housing than the standard housing that has the internal gate, but with it welded shut?



Any help here would be truly great....did some searching, but didn't find much....wanna hear from those with experience.....

[310R]

I believe atp turbo sells an exhaust housing for gt2871 with an external gate vband flange built in.No need for trying to weld cast,you will be disappointed with the results.Just hone and coat manifold and buy housing from atp.I think best bang for your buck,I will be going this way.

[slider2828]

Yeah no reason.... just get the special turbine housing from ATP for the GT28 frame for an External V38 wastegate.... all set....

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-043&Category_Code=HSG

bam linked for you too

[jspaeth]

2 things.

First off, does anyone have proof that external gate on this turbo/manifold works/helps?

There was concern (in some earlier threads I read) that placing the wastegate on this manifold (bc there is no really "good" location) could mess up the pulses of exhaust gas, bc it would almost certainly be in line with 1 runner more than the others....

If so, how are you guys welding it on there, just straight on to the top of the mani? I have read that this is bad, bc the exhaust is forced to turn 90* to exit.


Also, it looks like that special ATP housing keeps the stock T25 style turbine outlet (5 bolt pattern), so I could use my current Greddy turbo elbow.


Does anyone make a housing like this that is just a circular (like V-band I guess) turbine outlet, so that the flow would presumably be better? This style seems like you would get turbulance in the turbo elbow, because of how it is divided but flow is not exiting in one half since there is no longer an internal gate.


EDIT:

Also, I should add that I am NOT currently having any spool-up or boost creep/drop off issues at all with the internal gate. I have it setup with my Apexi AVCR, and it builds full boost ~19-20 psi by around 3800 from a roll in 3rd gear for example and holds that boost level all the way to 7500 RPM essentially.

That being said, is there any real incentive for me to convert over to external, other than the greatness of watching people poop their pants as you drive by?

[e1_griego]

Well if you're not having problems it seems like it's a waste.

Like I said, the only reason I have it setup like that is because I bought it like that. Otherwise I'd just have the stock internal gate.

[slider2828]

External gate will definitely have better response and less prone to any creep.... I got lucky cause my 2871R interl holds 18psi with no creep at all, but that has not been always the case with others. WIth this special housing, I relaly doubt there would be any turbulence since ts just exiting the side. I wouldn't worry about it too much since internal waste gates sorta goes side ways too.... so I wouldn't worry about it....

I have a cast manifold, I would hate to weld it on top cause if anyone would do it right it would need to be baked and stitched. Personally I think the special housing is the best way since it collects all at a single point. compared to anywhere else....

[steve shadows]

The ATP housing should be fine.

The main reason you are probably having issues is the collapsing and weak t28 type diaphram that is only designed to hold up to 8-10 psi max.

Even if you have a hint of it with the ATP housing you can instantly correct this with any electronic boost controller by simply adding a hint of GAIN to the settings. External WG controllabilty is night and day. If you were having issues before you will be extremely pleased with the entire drive of the car, not even the boost bein smoother alone. It's a great improvement in all ways the car will run under load.

[jspaeth]

Okay so looking at the design of that housing, I am trying to understand how it would work!....I can't see how the air can pass through the wastegate part without first passing through the turbine wheel....someone help me out here, I am just brain farting I guess...

EDIT: Nevermind, now I see how it would work, but this design also looks like it forces the air to take a 90* turn to exit out of the wastegate....thoughts from anyone?

[S13 curtis]

i bought the EWG V44 and it should be fine, i think its the best T2 housing out there. it leans more to the .64 than the . 86 so spool up shouldnt be a problem and you should see a noticeable horsepower increase

[jspaeth]

i bought the EWG V44 and it should be fine, i think its the best T2 housing out there. it leans more to the .64 than the . 86 so spool up shouldnt be a problem and you should see a noticeable horsepower increase

Explain this to me. Why will it give me a hp increase if my current internally gated setup spools up about when it should and I can hold 19-20 psi all the way to redline?

(not disagreeing with you, just asking you to sell me on it, explain WHY).

Again, it looks like the gases must make a 90* turn to exit throught the wastegate.

[codyace]

Will that ATP housing hit the strut tower or any associated hardware in that area? Just food for thoought.


If your internal gate works, and doens't creep, I wouldn't bother to be quite honest. I went external because (for some reason or another) not a single internal actuator worked (garrett, forge, hks) for my car. Ever since going external, it's worked great.

For me, it's a twofold advantage, as I can also run strictly off the gate for track days as well.

I'll take pictures of my manifold tonight...I just checked and never did the first time. I'll be getting the manifold re swained as well, as the part where we sanded the swain away i just hi temp blacked, and it look like crap haha.

[codyace]

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album141/1320_36.sized.jpg

Only shot I really have of it...not very good tho

[jspaeth]

I was seriously so psyched up to do the extrude hone and swain coating, but I just found out that the extrude hone is ~$500.

That seems just so expensive to me (granted I have many times that amount of money into the car)....but is it really worth it?

I know you swear by it Cody.....do you think it's the EH or the Swaining that gives the biggest benefit?

Also, yeah I was thinking about if the wastegate would hit the tower.


.....looks like I will just stick with the internal gate.....I am running an HKS actuator with a (stock) 10 psi spring, and it seems to work just fine.

My AVC-R is working overtime (almost maxing out duty) at high RPM to keep boost at 19-20 psi, but I may try preloading it just a bit to take care of this. I never see boost creep though....

[codyace]

I was seriously so psyched up to do the extrude hone and swain coating, but I just found out that the extrude hone is ~$500.

That seems just so expensive to me (granted I have many times that amount of money into the car)....but is it really worth it?

I know you swear by it Cody.....do you think it's the EH or the Swaining that gives the biggest benefit?

Also, yeah I was thinking about if the wastegate would hit the tower.


.....looks like I will just stick with the internal gate.....I am running an HKS actuator with a (stock) 10 psi spring, and it seems to work just fine.

My AVC-R is working overtime (almost maxing out duty) at high RPM to keep boost at 19-20 psi, but I may try preloading it just a bit to take care of this. I never see boost creep though....

I think the biggest gain was from the extrude hone process myself. See if you can get in on another 4 cylinder group buy and that should lower the cost. It has certainly gone up in price, but its still cheaper than getting a Full Race or Tomei bottom mount crackafold.

[Slidin240Wayz]

it's the EH

[slider2828]

It will not give more HP per se in the top end, but way better response. you can run higher gains so it reaches boost faster but with a stronger diaphram, it can actually hold the boost better with that gain turned up. I think its very useful and no it will not hit the tower....

Since it uses the V38, there is a low pro style from Tial.... it will work. 1 guy just bought that, look on the GT2871R thread.

[jspaeth]

It will not give more HP per se in the top end, but way better response. you can run higher gains so it reaches boost faster but with a stronger diaphram, it can actually hold the boost better with that gain turned up. I think its very useful and no it will not hit the tower....

Since it uses the V38, there is a low pro style from Tial.... it will work. 1 guy just bought that, look on the GT2871R thread.

Yeah but I went to the ATP site and could only find it offered with the 44mm flange....I was looking for the 38mm flange.

Yeah my buddy just threw 2 38mm Tials on his FR manifold for his RB26 and they are super-low profile...

[usdm180sx]

2 things.

First off, does anyone have proof that external gate on this turbo/manifold works/helps?

There was concern (in some earlier threads I read) that placing the wastegate on this manifold (bc there is no really "good" location) could mess up the pulses of exhaust gas, bc it would almost certainly be in line with 1 runner more than the others....

If so, how are you guys welding it on there, just straight on to the top of the mani? I have read that this is bad, bc the exhaust is forced to turn 90* to exit.


Also, it looks like that special ATP housing keeps the stock T25 style turbine outlet (5 bolt pattern), so I could use my current Greddy turbo elbow.


Does anyone make a housing like this that is just a circular (like V-band I guess) turbine outlet, so that the flow would presumably be better? This style seems like you would get turbulance in the turbo elbow, because of how it is divided but flow is not exiting in one half since there is no longer an internal gate.


EDIT:

Also, I should add that I am NOT currently having any spool-up or boost creep/drop off issues at all with the internal gate. I have it setup with my Apexi AVCR, and it builds full boost ~19-20 psi by around 3800 from a roll in 3rd gear for example and holds that boost level all the way to 7500 RPM essentially.

That being said, is there any real incentive for me to convert over to external, other than the greatness of watching people poop their pants as you drive by?

The ATP external wastegate housing is for people who are having boost issues. If you are not having boost issues and you are happy where your boost is set to (19-20 is right at the sweet spot for this turbo) what's the point?

[jspaeth]

The ATP external wastegate housing is for people who are having boost issues. If you are not having boost issues and you are happy where your boost is set to (19-20 is right at the sweet spot for this turbo) what's the point?


Thank you, this is what I hoped for.

[SuperiorS14]

i just tie wired the flapper open. why spend the extra money on the housing put it to the wastegate.

[jspaeth]

i just tie wired the flapper open. why spend the extra money on the housing put it to the wastegate.


Huh? You tied the flapper OPEN? I must be missing something

[slider2828]

Yeah me 2..... that would pretty much end all boost period.... lol.... V44 has lo pro tooo in general I like the V44s super nice and tight....

But if you don't have boost problems, don't try to fix whats not broken, but for awesome performance ext wastegate is the best...

[OBEEWON]

ext gate for more reliable boost holding. It won't improve the performance of the turbo. I wouldn't bother doing it.

[om3ga]

EH or do the Tomei mani, I hear good things.

[jspaeth]

ext gate for more reliable boost holding. It won't improve the performance of the turbo. I wouldn't bother doing it.

That's what I figured. I just don't see how it will give me an improvement over my current setup.....but all my friends are pushing for it.

Also, with the stock internal gate, the air is forced to change direction far less than all of these external setups (for the stock manifold) in which it looks like your asking the air to turn 90* in order to exit.....this alone will introduce turbulance to the air that is moving on to the turbine wheel.....

EH or do the Tomei mani, I hear good things.


Fuck I really want to do the EH and swain coat but it's like $750 combined! I know you gotta "pay to play" (all too well), but that is some dollars for how much tq/hp gain I am not sure.

[codyace]

Fuck I really want to do the EH and swain coat but it's like $750 combined! I know you gotta "pay to play" (all too well), but that is some dollars for how much tq/hp gain I am not sure.

What kinda power does your make? Is it all on your car? I wouldn't touch it until you've got an issue.

I'd still do the process versus buying a tubular manifold any day, there isn't a single advantage of it in my book, for a t2 turbo

-CA

[jspaeth]

What kinda power does your make? Is it all on your car? I wouldn't touch it until you've got an issue.

I'd still do the process versus buying a tubular manifold any day, there isn't a single advantage of it in my book, for a t2 turbo

-CA

On a dynapack, my latest results were the dotted lines:

http://makingapril.com/greg/justin/newdyno.jpg

Since that time, I have fiddled with my boost controller, and am now hitting full boost by around 3800-4000 RPM (19-20 psi).

Furthermore, at the time of the dyno, boost was dropping off to around 16 psi at around 6300 RPM.

Have since fixed that issue and now hold 19-20 psi all the way to 7500 RPM or so.

I would expect that this causes my tq curve to fall off more slowly, and probably results in ~370 whp on this dyno.


BC retainers/springs, HKS Step 2 cams. Greddy IM, stock throttle body, bigboy Greddy 24R FMIC, PFC DJetro

SteveShadows says my tq numbers could be improved with better timing.....I know you are gonna try to sell me on the S3 cams really hard now hahaha

[slider2828]

On Step 2's I figured you would get more torque and HP than that.... Especially with the greddy IM as well...


I get the same numbers on a dyno dynamics..... stock IM and 16.5 PSI with crappy piping....

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/gaert/PICT0072.jpg

[jspaeth]

On Step 2's I figured you would get more torque and HP than that.... Especially with the greddy IM as well...


I get the same numbers on a dyno dynamics..... stock IM and 16.5 PSI with crappy piping....

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/gaert/PICT0072.jpg


2 observations:

1) Stock IM clearly hurting your top end

2) Surprised how late you hit full torque, considering you have the STOCK IM.

[slider2828]

But that is full torque, but torque curve at the beginning is a little better.... I think there will be better response at the time I think some of the IC piping wasn't good....

definitely felt better after I fixed everything up.... gotta redyno sometime soon.... oh wait is yours a .64? I have an .86


Maybe I should pick up one of those ISIS Intakes.... but the new greddy's are sex...

[codyace]

I'll join in the dyno graph fun

http://www.codyace.com/albums/Dynos/ace240dyno.jpg

JWT ECU, S3's, Stock Springs/Retainers

I wish Dyno jets were load bearing to help spool the turbo sooner, but what can ya do. This setup trapped 120 with ET Street Slicks.

[slider2828]

I wonder how come yours guys max torque comes on sooner than mine... so weird....

[reccakun08]

I wonder how come yours guys max torque comes on sooner than mine... so weird....

Cams maybe? I would think their cam setups though would make it come a bit later though.

[jspaeth]

Boost controller has a HUGE impact....

For example:

Before:

Stock Gt2871r setup, my duty on my AVC-R was roughly 60% all the way from 3000 RPM to 7000 RPM,

With this setup I hit full boost around 3700 RPM or so (17 psi) and held it all the way to 7000 RPM


After:

Greddy IM 264/264 12/11mm lift IN/EX HKS Step 2 cams.

Now, to get 20 psi across the board, (spools fully by around 3800-4000 RPM), I need it like this:


3000 RPM ---- 80% duty
3500 RPM ---- 75% duty
4000 RPM ---- 57% duty
4500 RPM ---- 60% duty
5000 RPM ---- 62% duty
5500 RPM ---- 64% duty
6000 RPM ---- 70% duty
6500 RPM ---- 75% duty
7000 RPM ---- 80% duty
7500 RPM ---- 88% duty



Bascially had to jack up the duty in the low end (since cams and Greddy IM were hurting spool up, relative to the old boost controller settings), and then also jack it up in the top end bc it seems that to hold that many psi, i need a shit ton of duty to combat backpressure on the internal wastegate.


Going to preload the wastegate spring soon and recalibrate the AVC-R.....

[jinxtacy]

2 things.

First off, does anyone have proof that external gate on this turbo/manifold works/helps?

There was concern (in some earlier threads I read) that placing the wastegate on this manifold (bc there is no really "good" location) could mess up the pulses of exhaust gas, bc it would almost certainly be in line with 1 runner more than the others....

If so, how are you guys welding it on there, just straight on to the top of the mani? I have read that this is bad, bc the exhaust is forced to turn 90* to exit.

I would contact Twins Turbo and see if they have any pictures of Verena Mei's 240sx. I couldn't find any, but they take wastegate placement into consideration and have come up with some of the more unique manifold designs.

I did manage to find a 2JZ S2K that shows you a way to route the wastegate effectively @ Nasty Nasty S2000 from Twins Turbo with Bullseye/Borg Warner S480 80mm turbo - Honda-Tech (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2045711)

More of their work: Twins Turbo Motorsports, Inc. (http://www.twinsturbo.com/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=9)

You can see how they try to route the wastegate in a similar fashion on the RX7 application. If you can get a pic of Verena Mei's car you might be able to get an idea of what you want to do. Good luck!

[slider2828]

Oic.... Yeah I don't have mine set that way, although it can... Hmmm I am going to try that... but Duty is % of the wastegate right sorta... and you also have gain correct? Do you have any spiking?

How do you preload the spring? This is super interesting

[jspaeth]

Oic.... Yeah I don't have mine set that way, although it can... Hmmm I am going to try that... but Duty is % of the wastegate right sorta... and you also have gain correct? Do you have any spiking?

How do you preload the spring? This is super interesting


Duty and gain are the same thing....it's a measure of how long the boost solenoid vents off air, preventing it from getting to the wastegate.

Higher duty means the solenoid is bleeding off more air, so that the wastegate acutuator is seeing less psi, and stays shut more.


Very MINOR spiking, like if am flooring it in 3rd and then QUICKLY shift into 4th, it may go like 1 psi above my target, but never more than that.


Yeah, depending on your setup, it sometimes takes very different duties at different RPMs to keep boost constant.

This is why I am so against these boost controllers that only allow you to set a single "duty" or "gain"

[S13 curtis]

I was seriously so psyched up to do the extrude hone and swain coating, but I just found out that the extrude hone is ~$500.

That seems just so expensive to me (granted I have many times that amount of money into the car)....but is it really worth it?

I know you swear by it Cody.....do you think it's the EH or the Swaining that gives the biggest benefit?

Also, yeah I was thinking about if the wastegate would hit the tower.


.....looks like I will just stick with the internal gate.....I am running an HKS actuator with a (stock) 10 psi spring, and it seems to work just fine.

My AVC-R is working overtime (almost maxing out duty) at high RPM to keep boost at 19-20 psi, but I may try preloading it just a bit to take care of this. I never see boost creep though....

thats alot, a local machine shop can extrude hone the manifold for around 150.

but then again you can just buy the Tomei Expreme manifold which is based on the same exact design as the stock manifold but jus ported out pretty much.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/exhaustflow.gif

[slider2828]

Duty and gain are the same thing....it's a measure of how long the boost solenoid vents off air, preventing it from getting to the wastegate.

Higher duty means the solenoid is bleeding off more air, so that the wastegate acutuator is seeing less psi, and stays shut more.


Very MINOR spiking, like if am flooring it in 3rd and then QUICKLY shift into 4th, it may go like 1 psi above my target, but never more than that.


Yeah, depending on your setup, it sometimes takes very different duties at different RPMs to keep boost constant.

This is why I am so against these boost controllers that only allow you to set a single "duty" or "gain"

I agree. I am going to get on that....

[mysharonna]

Here are 2 pictures of mine. I have the tial 38mm waste gate.

One thing though, make sure you weld the flapper really good. I need to take mine apart now and re-weld it.

http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/at_ecd/P1010139.jpg

http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/at_ecd/P1010138.jpg

[jspaeth]

Again, this looks pretty nice, and the angle is nice.

But....I read somewhere (and I am a paranoid person) that you have to be real careful with those kinds of setups that you aren't causing one cylinder to lean out more than others.

Otherwise you would probably want to tune that with 4 separate EGT sensors, one on each runner.

The AFR you get post turbo is in some sense an "average"....you could be seeing 12.0 AFR, but I could imagine it's possible that could be from 13.0 in 2 cylinders and 11.0 in the other 2.....kind of an extreme example, but I just don't want to fuck with the stock flow of that manifold too much....

[mysharonna]

My wide band seems to read just fine with no signs so far of any problems. I would think that if all four runners have access to the external port it should be fine. I am no designer/builder of manifolds, but looking at aftermarket top mounts, the waste gate location is similar. The waste gate runs off of vacuum anyway so it will open at whatever the setting is.

Maybe you should look into how manifolds are made with external gates so you can get a better idea. I am a paranoid person sometimes and just said to hell with it lol.

[SuperiorS14]

Huh? You tied the flapper OPEN? I must be missing something

Yeah me 2..... that would pretty much end all boost period.... lol.... V44 has lo pro tooo in general I like the V44s super nice and tight....

But if you don't have boost problems, don't try to fix whats not broken, but for awesome performance ext wastegate is the best...

I tied the arm of the flapper open.... i also didnt mention run a 44mm wastegate. but i have an aftermarket manifold

[jspaeth]

I tied the arm of the flapper open.... i also didnt mention run a 44mm wastegate. but i have an aftermarket manifold


I don't get it, you are still allowing air to go around the turbine wheel, thus reducing spool up time.....

[codyace]

Just be forwarned, that there really is not a lot of room in these setups. I debated going 'backwards' with the dump, but felt as if it would jam me up into the firewall. I'm glad I vented mine from the side, as it's allowed me to have more room for everything, and retain my OE oil/air seperator.

In regard to leaning out a cylinder, that I am unsure of. My setup vents from the upper half of the manifold and works fine. On GTiR setups you are actually able to drill a small hole to vent equally, but it really doesn't seem to make any difference...trust me if it didn't work I'd be on hear saying it didn't...I have no tolerance for dumb shiz haha.

Superior: Why even vent it open? THat's totally incorrect.

[codyace]

thats alot, a local machine shop can extrude hone the manifold for around 150.

but then again you can just buy the Tomei Expreme manifold which is based on the same exact design as the stock manifold but jus ported out pretty much.




I'm not spending 600 bucks on a manifold that could easily crack, and hurt heat retention and spool up.

I'd easily rather spend 700 (which seems to be going price for EH and Swain) and have a dead honest reliable setup that works awesome.


I am also interested in the 150 dollar 'extrude hone' I mean the process itself probably could be replicated, but i'd love to see some results...as for that price you can't go wrong

[e1_griego]

My tial flange is placed closer to the head, to the point where I can't fit the stock oil separator without modifying a bit (which I will probably fuss with in the coming weeks).

My screamer pipe runs down the back of the turbo, between the firewall, elbow and bellhousing. It's a bit tight and has taken some futzing to get it to not rub, but I seem to have got it clearanced now.

[S13 curtis]

I'm not spending 600 bucks on a manifold that could easily crack, and hurt heat retention and spool up.

I'd easily rather spend 700 (which seems to be going price for EH and Swain) and have a dead honest reliable setup that works awesome.


I am also interested in the 150 dollar 'extrude hone' I mean the process itself probably could be replicated, but i'd love to see some results...as for that price you can't go wrong

true, the expreme is expensive i would only buy it used if i did because 600+ is to much for a T2 mani IMO. Im most likely gonna do the extrude hone since im getting the stock manifold for free.

[jspaeth]

true, the expreme is expensive i would only buy it used if i did because 600+ is to much for a T2 mani IMO. Im most likely gonna do the extrude hone since im getting the stock manifold for free.

Haha stock manifold for "free"....they only go for like $25 anyway haha

[S13 curtis]

Haha stock manifold for "free"....they only go for like $25 anyway haha

yea lol my friend is bringing it over. I gave mine away long time ago.

have you decided on external or stay internal yet?

[jspaeth]

yea lol my friend is bringing it over. I gave mine away long time ago.

have you decided on external or stay internal yet?

Yeah with all of everyone's input, the consensus seems to be that the reason that people have been converting to external is to manage creep/spool/backpressure issues.

However, I am having none of these problems, so the risks and cost don't seem to justify it for me.

......I do really wanna do the EH and Swain, but I am just not sure that that is how I wanna spend $750 right now..

For that price (plus a bit more), I can get myself a REAL LSD (have a 15 year old VLSD with fluid that has never been changed :ghey:)...

...I have had a few people tell me that switching over from stock to a real LSD is a world of a difference in terms of cornering and putting power down coming out of a corner....

[slider2828]

Just get more track dayz and a lsd is better than getting what 15 more horse .... nah... track days for sure

[codyace]

IF everythign is working fine, than LSD for sure

[S13 curtis]

Yeah with all of everyone's input, the consensus seems to be that the reason that people have been converting to external is to manage creep/spool/backpressure issues.

However, I am having none of these problems, so the risks and cost don't seem to justify it for me.

......I do really wanna do the EH and Swain, but I am just not sure that that is how I wanna spend $750 right now..

For that price (plus a bit more), I can get myself a REAL LSD (have a 15 year old VLSD with fluid that has never been changed :ghey:)...

...I have had a few people tell me that switching over from stock to a real LSD is a world of a difference in terms of cornering and putting power down coming out of a corner....

((SR))Kelly on nico forums is selling an extrude and honed manifold for $380 OBO it is also swain coated.

[jspaeth]

((SR))Kelly on nico forums is selling an extrude and honed manifold for $380 OBO it is also swain coated.


It's funny you mention that bc my buddy has mentioned that exact thing and says I should get it....I will have to take a look see....I am always leary about buying used stuff from people.

In this case, it IS cast iron, so I think the only things I need worry about are that the flanges are okay and if the EH and Swain were legit.

[slider2828]

Yeah looking at dyno maps though, I would rather have it completely smooth powerband than one that hops sorta at 4k rpm range.... Oh wellz going back for tune tomorrow.... just some minor changes and clean up some stuff.....

[JaindlS13]

Anyone have the dump pipe connected to their "low profile" Tial 38? I was considering this conversion, and didn't know how the dump tube was with the GT2871R. Thanks!

[redline racer510]

I believe atp turbo sells an exhaust housing for gt2871 with an external gate vband flange built in.No need for trying to weld cast,you will be disappointed with the results.Just hone and coat manifold and buy housing from atp.I think best bang for your buck,I will be going this way.

This is #1 option!!!!

[codyace]

Anyone have the dump pipe connected to their "low profile" Tial 38? I was considering this conversion, and didn't know how the dump tube was with the GT2871R. Thanks!

SHouldn't be much of an issue, in fact it will be easier as the positioning is slightly lower. The V band inlet/exit helps too for trick setups.

I just had Jspaeth's manifold welded with a MVS flange, and have another 38mm flange one ready to go as well for another (not to be mentioned) forum member.

If anyone is interested in getting this done, they can contact/PM me and I can forward the information from my welder do you as well. I think Justin's was his 6th or 7th one so far.



This is #1 option!!!!

The thing is, the fitment on them seems to be less than desired, especially with steering arm clearance. I wish there was more information on this was it certainly would be nice.

However for the cost of having them welded, you could probably get that done cheaper than buying a new back half.