Journey to hit 430+whp with a T28...Lets find out.

[S13 curtis]

OK guys whats up as you know ive been working with my 240 for a while now since i was 17. Im currently serving the US Army and im stationed in Korea, 31B Military Police, but my car car is being put togeather as we speak and i wanted to let you guys in on the progress i would like to get your input good or bad it dosent matter to me i take those and make things better.I wanted to be a little different and go a different route than most ppl and i will be the first on here to push the "Special GT25 EWG V44 turbine housing" to the limit. We will see what it take to break way over 400whp on a GT2871r, it to easy to go past 400 with a GT30r. enough talking lets get down to business,enjoy!!!

Mod list to make this happen:

Powerplant:SR20DET Red Top
-Stock Internals
-ARP Head Studs
-Apex 1.1mm metal Head Gasket
-Built head, BC springs and retainers,BC Valves.
-Tomei ProCam 270 duration
-Tomei RAS
-Cusco Motor Mounts
-Greddy oil catch tank
-NO A/C or P/S

Hotside:GT2871R .72
-Copper Exhaust manifold gasket
-Megan racing Exhaust manifold
-Megan racing Elbow
-Megan racing Down pipe and test pipe
-Apexi N1 Cat back exhaust
-Jegs 3' Eletric Cutout
-ATP Special T25 EWG .72 A/R Turbine housing
-Tial V44mm wastegate

ColdSide:GT3071R 4'inch inlet T04E Compressor housing (56 trim GT2871r's can only use this as a upgrade) flows 50lbs a min.
-Ebay 32X12X3 FMIC (works great BTW never gave me problems)
-2.5inch intercooler pipeing (debateing on going 3'inch)<-- needs your input.
-Greddy Intake manifold

Fuel Delivery:Walbro 255lph
-Precision 1000cc injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulater (not purchased yet)
-Z32 Fuel Filter
-FUEL:-----> E-85<----- FTMFW

Engine Management:AEM EMS w/all the goodies listed below
-AEM 5.0 bar map sensor
-AEM Boost control solenoid = Baller
-Tuned by ???

Drivetrain:Stock SR tranny
-Drive Shaft shop 1 peice drive shaft
-Helical LSD
-Act 6 puck clutch (brand new getting installed)
-F1 13lbs Light weight Flywheel ( ive seen these work fine, its getting installed)
-Pressure plate (need a new one tell me what u think of my old one)

Most of the parts are already on the car i can count on 1 hand for the parts i dont have.

This will not be babied at 18 lbs of BOOST, it will be 22+PSI
I will be getting the full potential of the T2 based GT2871r.




here are the pics of the new parts so far and the progress on the turbo.

More pics will come your way soon!!!

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/IMG00053-1.jpg

The Tomei Cams,RAS,and ACT 6 puck Total $638 after shipping

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Camsandclutch.jpg


Turbo Parts that Arrived!!!!!!!!! Total $581 from ATP Turbo after shipping

plus comparison

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/GT28R.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gt28.jpg

GT3071r Compressor housing installed after some hard work and elbow grease.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/GT2871rprogress.jpg




The Snap Ring on the CHRA will piss you OFF, i repeat it will piss you off.
Aftermath:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Snapringpliers.jpg

Mission Complete:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/GT28progress.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/BigGT28r.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/BigGT28.jpg

Well i had the tranny pull and this is what i found not bad jus showing pics.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/tranny.jpg

Seems to have over heated pretty bad.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/pressureplate.jpg

the old exedy clutch

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/OldClutch.jpg

the old flywheel
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/flywheel3.jpg

Here is a really old motor shot.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/IMG00087.jpg

thats all the pics for now and i will come up to post alot more later. and thanks for looking and dont forget to leave your feedback.

[S14_Kouki]

You will do 426whp

[bl3ujay07]

damn...cant wait to see it finished.

[smelly240]

look how little the turbine wheel is - so weird lookin.

mix and match til it works tho - might take more than one try - but it can happen if u try hard enough...

[RurouniMidnight]

looks like an interesting journey. Wonder what the actual numbers are going to be

-I would use a s15 multi layer gasket

[S13 curtis]

look how little the turbine wheel is - so weird lookin.

mix and match til it works tho - might take more than one try - but it can happen if u try hard enough...

thanks, and yea i was thinking the same thing about the turbine wheel tiny little thing. it will be tuned on E-85 + a decent amount of timing so we'll see.

[SpdElemts]

Nice parts...i cant wait to see the turbo mounted with the special exhaust housing. Thinking about using the same housing. Please post some pictures of how close the wastegate is to the shock tower.

[Psycho 240 Freak]

Good looking build so far. I can't wait to see how this turbo will do. Where you at in Korea and how much longer do you have?

[ross.cottrill]

im interested to see the outcome of this...

[BiG MiKE86]

post ur findings of that exhaust housing please!

[smelly240]

i think to make that housing work - u have to run a pipe off the turbine to move the wastegate.

those housings arent something new they've been out quite a while. - atp turbo sells them - I seen them used on a honda - with the gate sticking upward and the housing horizontal.

[Def]

Why not go with a T2 flanged turbo that has a bigger turbine wheel if you really want to make more power.

I might have just gone GT2876R as well, since IIRC it flows a bit more up top than even the big E cover on the 56 trim 71mm wheel.

[guitaraholic]

Wouldn't a GT2871r w/ a GT3071r compressor wheel be the same as a GT2876r? Which I heard is a poor match because the compressor wheel is too big for the turbine. (I'm not 100% sure on this, but just throwing it out there)

[Z U L8R]

i stopped reading your mod list after i got to stock internals....

good luck with that.....hopefully it lasts longer than a couple dyno pulls

not trying to be the token pessimistic dickhead of the thread but i am skeptical of the longevity.

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$ can't spend your money...for God sakes man build the bottom end and give yourself some piece of mind. i understand racer x on forum xyz made 24320482084 horsepower for 3 years on stock bottom end without problems.....good for him, but i wouldn't waste 10 grand of my money because of that.

i would have forgone the head work if it was between that or the bottom end, but i know money's not a problem with you since you're military so i am venting strongly my opinion/suggestion that you build the bottom end.

e85 is cheap race gas and will help the stock bottom end last longer...but also e85 varies from batch to batch even at the same pump...therefore care must be taken to make sure your fuel is consistent to the tune, however duly note that even with a perfect tune....the laws of physics still apply and if that bottom end can't take it, it won't hold.

once you reach the limits of that bottom end..it's too late..

best of luck and thank you for your services

Dave

[S13 curtis]

Good looking build so far. I can't wait to see how this turbo will do. Where you at in Korea and how much longer do you have?

Im here until october then i will come back to the states. Im in daegu Area 4. the car shouls be ready to hit the dyno as soon as i can find a new pressure plate. as for my intercooler pipeing im thinking about going 2.5 on the hot side a 3 inch on the cold side along with the SSQV mounted beforethe throttle plate.


Nice parts...i cant wait to see the turbo mounted with the special exhaust housing. Thinking about using the same housing. Please post some pictures of how close the wastegate is to the shock tower.

Will do as soon as it gets mounted up.

Wouldn't a GT2871r w/ a GT3071r compressor wheel be the same as a GT2876r? Which I heard is a poor match because the compressor wheel is too big for the turbine. (I'm not 100% sure on this, but just throwing it out there)

Nope, It dosent turn it into a GT2876r, its still a GT2871r, GT3071r and GT2871r have the same exact compressor wheel.

Why not go with a T2 flanged turbo that has a bigger turbine wheel if you really want to make more power.

I might have just gone GT2876R as well, since IIRC it flows a bit more up top than even the big E cover on the 56 trim 71mm wheel.

I decided to just work with what i had and just upgrade the 2871R, my origional plans were to do a .63 T3 backside and have it top mounted but i changed plans jus to make it easier for my buddy working on it.

[guitaraholic]

Well, I can't wait to see it on the dyno. It would be nice to see a decent spooling turbo that makes pretty good power

[S13 curtis]

Little update and i ran into a little problem check it out:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Problem-1.jpg

the compressor housing is touching the exhaust manifold.

here are the solutions to the problem:

1. Use the stock SR exhaust manifold Extrude and Swained because there is no way in hell im putting a stock restrictive manifold back on.
OR
2.Purchase a T2 Flange and use it as a spacer between the turbo and the manifold.

Opinions Please.

[guitaraholic]

I've heard the Stock manifold flows pretty good once its been extrude honed. Besides Then you can sell me the manifold...lol J/K

[HPballer76]

what about going top mount t2? if thats not an option then the extrude honed stock many gets my vote.

[juggernaut1]

Little update and i ran into a little problem check it out:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Problem-1.jpg

the compressor housing is touching the exhaust manifold.

here are the solutions to the problem:

1. Use the stock SR exhaust manifold Extrude and Swained because there is no way in hell im putting a stock restrictive manifold back on.
OR
2.Purchase a T2 Flange and use it as a spacer between the turbo and the manifold.

Opinions Please.

Is it possible to clock the comp housing slightly to gain a little clearance?

Sidenote: its a pity they didn't develope the ex housing to suit the more compact Tial MVS gate.

[S13 curtis]

Is it possible to clock the comp housing slightly to gain a little clearance?

Sidenote: its a pity they didn't develope the ex housing to suit the more compact Tial MVS gate.

yea, it should Clear i will take a pic of the mock up as soon as i get this turbo on the manifold. it was clocked a couple times and still wont clear enough because of runner #1. i will most likely go the extrude and swained route

[Gorilla Unit 33]

Why not just go top mount?

[juggernaut1]

yea, it should Clear i will take a pic of the mock up as soon as i get this turbo on the manifold. it was clocked a couple times and still wont clear enough because of runner #1. i will most likely go the extrude and swained route

Just tap the comp housing outlet a couple of times with a soft mallet or the wooden handle of a hammer in the direction you need - it will rotate into position - you don't need to undo the bolts each time.

Good luck

[om3ga]

Why not just go top mount?

Too much work + hes already got these parts haha

[s13dan]

Yea, i had a tubular mani. Shit broke, so now i use a stock one and im fine with it. Stock unit will never break and it flows fine. It doesn't look very cool but if you get it powder coated it doesn't look bad.Spacers work too just keep in mind cast iron is tuff stuff.


ps-for any asshat that wants to make a comment, it was an HKS mani. 1/2 inch flange and it still cracked.

[Dee]

Subbed, interested to see how close you get to your mark. Godspeed bruh

[S13 curtis]

Why not just go top mount?

I would not waste my time with a T2 topmount. if i was going topmount i wouldve bought a .63 T3 housing.I would have to get a custom down pipe new ssbraided lines etc, too much of a headache for me.

Too much work + hes already got these parts haha

You read my mind.

[punxva]

in for the support i'd like to see how this turns out man, good luck

[BiG MiKE86]

any updates? really interested to see some clearances on the ex. housing with the wastegate installed

[S13 curtis]

any updates? really interested to see some clearances on the ex. housing with the wastegate installed

waiting on my friend to bring me a stock exhaust manifold so i could get it ported out. then i will post more pics.

[bardabe]

purchace a T2 flange, and weld it on top of the old one on your manifold and keep on skipping ahead.

[BiG MiKE86]

waiting on my friend to bring me a stock exhaust manifold so i could get it ported out. then i will post more pics.
What do you figure that is gonna cost you (the porting)?

[S13 curtis]

What do you figure that is gonna cost you (the porting)?

probly around the $200 ballpark for the extrude hone from the local machine shop. i was also looking at the tomei expreme manifold because its basicly the same thing as a ported out stock manifold since its based on the same design.


I also found this flow graph on the web:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/exhaustflow.gif

[Oneoverwrx]

i am using an extra t3 flange on my civic to space the comp housing away from a runner. Seems to work for me, just make sure and use new gaskets and studs so you can really get a good seal.

[Killa_D]

lol about the manifold problem thats a easy one buy a new bottom mount manifold like the tomei im pretty sure that manifold will clear.

[BooStedS13SleePeR]

hopfully everything holds up haha

[redline racer510]

I predict 429 whp and big kaboom. Hope you got some extra cash and another DD to rebuild engine.

[S13 curtis]

I predict 429 whp and big kaboom. Hope you got some extra cash and another DD to rebuild engine.

I think it will be just fine. This motor dosent have many miles on it from when it was purchased from pops at allversion. it came out of a clip with a hair over 41,000 kilometers back in 2004, besides codyace has a bone stock motor pushing 409whp for more than a year or 2 im pretty sure.I'm also running an AEM EMS not a S-AFC.

But if it does take a shit, I will just order darton sleeves and 90mm 9:0:1 pistons along with other goodies. thats my .02 on it.

[BiG MiKE86]

probly around the $200 ballpark for the extrude hone from the local machine shop. i was also looking at the tomei expreme manifold because its basicly the same thing as a ported out stock manifold since its based on the same design.


I also found this flow graph on the web:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/exhaustflow.gif
Ive actually got teh Tomei - and im lookin to go back to the cast manifold

[S13 curtis]

Update the Megan manifold works my friend just didnt clock it in the right position.



Had some more things to pick up that were at the shop for a while...

Tial V44

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/V44.jpg

AEM EMS

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/AEM.jpg

And the MYSTERY BOX

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/BigBox.jpg

Inside: Origin Stream Bodykit
20mm front fenders
30mm rear over fenders

Ordered an ACT Extreme pressure plate from FR Sport yesterday should come in aprox a week and a half

I will get more pics of the other parts etc boost solenoid and map sensor , flywheel and others.


^^was alot of money^^

[BiG MiKE86]

mount the turbo... now

[steve shadows]

I have tuned a couple of T28 Turbine equipt cars to hi 400-430 whp, which on my dyno is A LOT. thats around 475 on a dynojet!

I know...

Both cars used GT3071R and GT3076R with T28 flanges

[codyace]

With E85 and boost you should have no issue. High 300's are possible with smaller compressors on pump gas, so with the addition of a MUCH larger compressor housing, and the fact you are running race gas, i would say that if you don't hit that power, I would be upset.

Good luck, and damn you for having easily accessible E85 hehe :D

[codyace]

I think it will be just fine. This motor dosent have many miles on it from when it was purchased from pops at allversion. it came out of a clip with a hair over 41,000 kilometers back in 2004, besides codyace has a bone stock motor pushing 409whp for more than a year or 2 im pretty sure.I'm also running an AEM EMS not a S-AFC.

But if it does take a shit, I will just order darton sleeves and 90mm 9:0:1 pistons along with other goodies. thats my .02 on it.

Well, not entirly true:

I put forged CP pistons (86mm stock bore, 8.5 compression stock) in the motor now for 3 years on stock rods. I melted a hole in a piston shortly after those first video'd dyno pulls lol. I was WOT, 20 psi, going from 3rd to 4th when it felt like an intercooler coupler popped. Did some quick troubleshooting on the side of the highway, and then drove it off (shitty, sputtering, crappy) to an exit where I was seeing if a coil died. Everythign was workign, so I knew something BAD happened. Drove it to eat, drove it home (35 miles), and beat the fuck out of it as it was fubar by my book. Ripped the head off that same night to find the 'wussiest' blown engine ever. My 'theory' of to why it exploded was that the big intake gromets popped up around the injector, causing it to go lean. Wideband was perfect mid 11's all the time. I ended up getting a special cover for the greddy rail and haven't had an issue since.

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album187/Img_3842.sized.jpg
http://www.codyace.com/albums/album187/Img_3825.sized.jpg

What I did to fix the gromet
http://www.codyace.com/albums/album196/IMG_4158.sized.jpg
http://www.codyace.com/albums/album196/IMG_4162.sized.jpg

The new (well not new, as it's got near 18,000 miles on the motor) motor has been fine since, and this was the motor I went 11.65 @ 120 with (1.88 60'). I wish I had more practice and more than 3 runs as I know I'd have that 60 into the low 1.6's, and have the times in the damn low 11's.

Aside from that, it's nothign fancy. Jim Wolf Tune, Jim Wolf S3 cams, and the basic bolt ons. No headwork, no fancy bottom end work either, as I do all the work and don't have the tooling or the knowhow to get fancy with anything.

[codyace]

I predict 429 whp and big kaboom. Hope you got some extra cash and another DD to rebuild engine.

why a kaboom? With E85 detonation should be easily controlled. The stock parts strength isn't the question, it's always been their detonation resistance.

[midnight_rex]

why a kaboom? With E85 detonation should be easily controlled. The stock parts strength isn't the question, it's always been their detonation resistance.
wait im kind of confused. u said you melted a piston with the forged CPs or the stock pistons?

i got a s13 sr that im building right now which is sitting in my room almost assembled.

bottom:
86.5mm 8.5:1 CP pistons
eagle rods
apexi HG
arp mains
arp headstuds
block decked, honed, bored
align hone mains
grade 2 OEM main bearings
grade 1 OEM rod bearings
crank poilished and balanced
ATI damper
(whole assembly balanced)

top:
BC springs and retainers
BC 1mm+ intake and exhaust valves
supertech valve seals and valve guides
JWT s4 cams
new OEM rocker arms
new shims and guides
apexi HG

the turbo that im going with is a turbonetics t3/t4, stage 3 wheel, .63 AR, 57 trim compressor wheel. its going to be a journal bearing turbo and it comes with log manifold, wastegate, dumptube, all lines and hardware, intercooler and piping, etc.

i have a good idea what my power is gonna be but i would like your input on it cody?

[slickdrifter]

i just dont think 740cc injectors would cut it for that much power for e85. just remember you will need approximately 30% more by volume to make the same amount of power as you would if you weree running pump gas. I would go 1000cc injectors and run dual walbro pumps and hardwire them with seperate relays so you dont get voltage drop and run a nice aeromotive FPR. I just believe that you would be running too high of an injector duty cycle to be safe and reliable. Im sure you can make the dyno say 429hp for a few pulls with the setup you would like to run but thats just maxing out everything you got and not even safely, like a ticking time bomb. lol thats just my personal opinion. I also would run E98 instead and buy a custom top mount manifold from me :) ill cut you an awesome deal for something like a peakboost one that will accomodate that turbo and wastegate configuration, A one off peice constructed by my best friend who builds manifolds for a living. i know the motor itself would be able to handle 400hp as long as you have headstuds and a headgasket its just a matter of how long. Maxxing the setup out like you are tryign to do does not leave any room for error. The slightest lean condition caused by a loose vacuum line and you overboost will DESTROY your motor. I as well want to make about 400whp on a stock motor, if you search for my for sale ad you wil see what i have for a car. 740s as well but with pump gas and i would like to do water methanol injection. i will post dyno results soon. Oh btw, intercooler cores make a HUGE difference. A cheap core versus a nice core will allow you to flow to make mroe power. a buddy of mine was running an ebay core with a nice setup similar to yours and it couldnt hit overe 360hp and when he swapped to a nice kit he made 30rwhp right away. Precision and spearco make great cores as well as most name brand bar and plate style intercoolers. anyways this is just MY OPINION so if you disagree lemme know what you think and why.

[S13 curtis]

i just dont think 740cc injectors would cut it for that much power for e85. just remember you will need approximately 30% more by volume to make the same amount of power as you would if you weree running pump gas. I would go 1000cc injectors and run dual walbro pumps and hardwire them with seperate relays so you dont get voltage drop and run a nice aeromotive FPR. I just believe that you would be running too high of an injector duty cycle to be safe and reliable. Im sure you can make the dyno say 429hp for a few pulls with the setup you would like to run but thats just maxing out everything you got and not even safely, like a ticking time bomb. lol thats just my personal opinion. I also would run E98 instead and buy a custom top mount manifold from me :) ill cut you an awesome deal for something like a peakboost one that will accomodate that turbo and wastegate configuration, A one off peice constructed by my best friend who builds manifolds for a living. i know the motor itself would be able to handle 400hp as long as you have headstuds and a headgasket its just a matter of how long. Maxxing the setup out like you are tryign to do does not leave any room for error. The slightest lean condition caused by a loose vacuum line and you overboost will DESTROY your motor. I as well want to make about 400whp on a stock motor, if you search for my for sale ad you wil see what i have for a car. 740s as well but with pump gas and i would like to do water methanol injection. i will post dyno results soon. Oh btw, intercooler cores make a HUGE difference. A cheap core versus a nice core will allow you to flow to make mroe power. a buddy of mine was running an ebay core with a nice setup similar to yours and it couldnt hit overe 360hp and when he swapped to a nice kit he made 30rwhp right away. Precision and spearco make great cores as well as most name brand bar and plate style intercoolers. anyways this is just MY OPINION so if you disagree lemme know what you think and why.

My car was on E-85 before, im not just now converting. On my previous set up on 16-17psi when i had an e-manage blue it read in the high 80's on real time, thats why i bought a Aeromotive that i still dont have due to a member on here not replying then finally did about a day ago and still hasnt sent it out after over a week about to go on 2 weeks. i got the adjustable FPR to keep the duty cycle down a bit but i will go on evolutionm forums to scout for injectors, they sell injectors for a good price on there. I almost purchased 1600cc injectors but that might be a little over kill. As for the manifold if i bought a T3 manifold that would defeat the purpose of me buying the .72 ar EWG V44 housing. I'm not sure if they sell E-98 close by, i have to go on the turnpike about 5-10min for fuel.
Before i converted to E-85 i was going to do meth injection. meth injection is good for about 30whp or some more and you can run the boost even higher as it puts the air temp way down.

As of now im waiting on my buddy to do a mock up of the turbo set up so i could supply pics for the members on here that are interested in the fitment of the turbine housing.

My ACT Extreme pressure plate is supposed to come in tomorrow from FRSport then the tranny can go back on.

[codyace]

wait im kind of confused. u said you melted a piston with the forged CPs or the stock pistons?

Burned a stock one, now have had CP's in the car without issue for 3 years

In regard to my detonation comment, with a Forged piston in there, some detonation isn't going to 'melt it' or chip it nearly as easy as it would with stock.

the turbo that im going with is a turbonetics t3/t4, stage 3 wheel, .63 AR, 57 trim compressor wheel. its going to be a journal bearing turbo and it comes with log manifold, wastegate, dumptube, all lines and hardware, intercooler and piping, etc.

Funny you mention that turbo, as it was exactly what I ran on my turbo Altima hehe! I'd say it could support 400 hp on pump, but that depends on compressor (B vs E) as well.




I'm not sure if they sell E-98 close by, i have to go on the turnpike about 5-10min for fuel.
Before i converted to E-85 i was going to do meth injection. meth injection is good for about 30whp or some more and you can run the boost even higher as it puts the air temp way down.

While it's nice to have it so close, at the same time, it concerns me for that 'one time' where I'm no where near anything and need to fuel up. I guess in times like that it would be nice to be able to switch maps and run a 93 tune,

Sounds good on paper, but I'm unsure about mixing a tad bit of e-85 with regular gas (as in, is this possible without negative mixing effects?)

i just dont think 740cc injectors would cut it for that much power for e85. It would be VERY close like you say.

a buddy of mine was running an ebay core with a nice setup similar to yours and it couldnt hit overe 360hp and when he swapped to a nice kit he made 30rwhp right away. Precision and spearco make great cores as well as most name brand bar and plate style intercoolers. anyways this is just MY OPINION so if you disagree lemme know what you think and why.

Running a good core is certainly important for power. Sure ebay cores 'may work'...that doens't mean they will 'work well'

[ROIDMONKEY]

just in case u need some 1000cc injectors i have 4 for sell....pm me

[midnight_rex]

with my setup im using 740cc injectors. ive seen some videos of guys running them on 400whp+ applications with acceptable duty left for error.

what clutches do some of you guys use/recommend for street/daily use on a 400whp sr with 320-350wtq?

[slickdrifter]

yea exactly my point about the Ebay intercoolers. they work but not WELL. yeah you can get 400+hp on 740s with pump or race gas, but itd be very close call with ethanol. If you are going to run a full stand alone there is really no such thing as OVERKILL when it comes to running large injectors. Why try to compromise the integrity and reliability of your motor just to prove you can make 400 on your setup. If you dont wanna spend alot of money go the safe route and run plenty of injector, a good fuel system, standalone, and some good tuning. I will try and achieve similar power goals with my T3/T04e turbo, a topmount ramhorn manifold, AEM truboost, 740cc injectors, z32 maf, Denso Supra TT OEM fuel pump, Tomei type S FPR, and a custom built HIGHflow intercooler set up in a Vmount configuration. fully stock internal motor, I only have Rocker arm stoppers. Oh, and im running a RS enthalpy ECU. i realistically will probably only make 320 rwhp on the mustang dyno but i might try a pull to see if I can hit 400rwhp on high boost with water meth injection. If I am not satisfied with that setup I will go E85 with 1000-1600cc injectors, dual Denso fuel pumps, -8 fuel lines, AEM EMS, GT3076. lol of course no maf and convert to speed density just cus its the SHEEEIIIT! I dunno what do you guys think?

[midnight_rex]

i dont see the big deal in running such large injectors really with a t3/t4 turbo. 740s should cover it plenty. i have my haltech ems sitting right next to me so ill be using that :) 1000cc injectors for a 400whp sr20 is overkill in my opinion. i didnt even need 740cc injectors to make 400 in my gt28 ZC crx lol. i just used some bluetop dsm injectors and called it a day.

i guess ill see when i get my car on the dyno.

[S13 curtis]

yea exactly my point about the Ebay intercoolers. they work but not WELL. yeah you can get 400+hp on 740s with pump or race gas, but itd be very close call with ethanol. If you are going to run a full stand alone there is really no such thing as OVERKILL when it comes to running large injectors. Why try to compromise the integrity and reliability of your motor just to prove you can make 400 on your setup. If you dont wanna spend alot of money go the safe route and run plenty of injector, a good fuel system, standalone, and some good tuning. I will try and achieve similar power goals with my T3/T04e turbo, a topmount ramhorn manifold, AEM truboost, 740cc injectors, z32 maf, Denso Supra TT OEM fuel pump, Tomei type S FPR, and a custom built HIGHflow intercooler set up in a Vmount configuration. fully stock internal motor, I only have Rocker arm stoppers. Oh, and im running a RS enthalpy ECU. i realistically will probably only make 320 rwhp on the mustang dyno but i might try a pull to see if I can hit 400rwhp on high boost with water meth injection. If I am not satisfied with that setup I will go E85 with 1000-1600cc injectors, dual Denso fuel pumps, -8 fuel lines, AEM EMS, GT3076. lol of course no maf and convert to speed density just cus its the SHEEEIIIT! I dunno what do you guys think?

hell yea, i just converted to map sensor it should turn out great.

[BiG MiKE86]

As of now im waiting on my buddy to do a mock up of the turbo set up so i could supply pics for the members on here that are interested in the fitment of the turbine housing.

I would appreciate some pics and measurements to the shock tower if you get a chance. Thanks

[deukalionS14]

im interested in this thread lol. i would go w at least 1000cc injectors. i maxed out the 740's at around 20 to 21psi

[Grenade180sx]

i think the real weak point in SR's is the pistons.. ive NEVER broken a rod. but pistons go to shit pretty quick with the amount of abuse.

[midnight_rex]

im interested in this thread lol. i would go w at least 1000cc injectors. i maxed out the 740's at around 20 to 21psi
thats just doesnt sound right with the 740s.

[Z33dori]

im interested in this thread lol. i would go w at least 1000cc injectors. i maxed out the 740's at around 20 to 21psi

on what size turbo? 35r?

[deukalionS14]

thats just doesnt sound right with the 740s.

oh, forgot to add that this was with E85. you know the whole extra 30% fuel and blah blah blah

this was with a 2871r. my bad for not ebing specific

[ROIDMONKEY]

is this a street car? why no AC and PS....?

[Z U L8R]

better question.....why not build the bottom end and have peace of mind?

nissan won't send you a trophy when you make 400hp on stock pistons, i promise.

i'll repeat myself, you can have a perfect tune, but the laws of physics still apply. if you push the limits, you'll eventually find them....and then it's time to rebuild.

your ONE example you cited ,just as i said in my first post, "so and so has been making 948,028,203 horsepower for 3 years on the stock bottom end." just told you he's had forged pistons in there.... i don't understand what you're trying to prove. i made 400+ hp on many stock bottom ends, big deal, they don't last. and nissan didn't come to my house with a plaque saying "Dave congratulations on making 400hp on the stock bottom end."

sure you can ask a million nissan owners and i'm sure you'll find a few who've made your hp goals on stock bottom ends. and you may even find one or two that are so much better than everyone else because theirs lasted...but they're the exception, not the rule.

....... i guess you have money to waste. your friends that are pumping you up to push your shit to the limits aren't gonna help you pay for your rebuild when your motor grenades. the Jesus of all nissans on forum xyz who's made 2 trillion horsepower on the stock bottom end for 5 years without a problem isn't gonna help you pay for your rebuild when your motor grenades. no one in this thread is gonna help you pay for your rebuild when your motor grenades.

tough love sir, but i guess i'm one of the few who give a shit and would like to see you actually enjoy it for more than a couple months...

"experience by far is the best teacher.......but a fool will learn no other way."

Dave

[codyace]

Very true...to me, making some sort of 'magic forum number' is not worth grenading the bottom end, as ultimatly, who are you going to impress.

...At least a set of forged pistons....

[midnight_rex]

thats why i built my bottom and top end with all new components and take measurements over and over so later down the road i can still open my hood and see my precious 400whp+ motor still purr'n. Z U L8R has a VERY GOOD point. at least build the bottom or throw some forged pistons in there so u can enjoy your motor and car longer than 3, 4, 5 or 10 years (overkill).

[Silviaoneday]

First off I hope you reach your goal but you have some wise people on here telling you to build the bottom end. Zul8r,codyface,midnight all are on the right page. You have a guy who acheived x amount of power on a stock bottom end and is telling you to build yours and not worry. Do it right the first time, build the bottom overkill status and enjoy your car!!!! Try and make the most amount of power on low boost and a safe tune. Not crank the hell out of it on a pissy ass turbo and stock bottom end to acheive numbers you can with a slightly bigger turbo or a built bottom end. I'm not thread bashing you man just giving you some words of advice but two each its own.

[fullthrottle]

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$
i i know moeny's not a problem with you since you're military e85 is cheap
Dave
You dont make much money in the military out there. Well maybe if you are a higher rank but as an E-4 I wasnt making much.

[Z U L8R]

:D

he's still making $2k a month and not having to pay any bills or for food. my little brother's in the navy in san diego right now....he's an e5 but BAH alone pays for his living expenses with a couple hundred left over, then his pay check every 2 weeks.

seriously, i'm really a helpful guy on here not a deuschebag. you can go through all my posts if you want. i'd just like to see all this time, money, and energy not go to waste.

best of luck, but hopefully more common-sense than luck ;)

Dave

[S13 curtis]

:D

he's still making $2k a month and not having to pay any bills or for food. my little brother's in the navy in san diego right now....he's an e5 but BAH alone pays for his living expenses with a couple hundred left over, then his pay check every 2 weeks.

seriously, i'm really a helpful guy on here not a deuschebag. you can go through all my posts if you want. i'd just like to see all this time, money, and energy not go to waste.

best of luck, but hopefully more common-sense than luck ;)

Dave

married + one year old son, i make more than that. build is on hold for a second im trying to get another car for a real good deal.

[S13 curtis]

is this a street car? why no AC and PS....?

when i bought the swap it never had a/c or p/s pump, it sucks ass when its 85+ outside.

[Z U L8R]

congrats :)

my little brother and all his friend's are getting married n shit...i've been with my chick 6 years....i feel the pressure trust me lol.

i'm co-owning a full service repair shop here in GA and making arrangements with my partner to be full owner by Feb 1 of next year so things are looking up for me.

if i don't buy a house i'll be finishing up my ka-t 510 and boosted ls1 240z very soon :D

i know i was being a little harsh with ya curtis but it's cause i care and wanna see this thing meet your expectations is all.

gl,

Dave

[codyace]

when i bought the swap it never had a/c or p/s pump, it sucks ass when its 85+ outside.

I could help you get AC back on there car, PM me :D

[BiG MiKE86]

any updates? keep this thread alive!

[BiG MiKE86]

Any updates?? OP Whats goin on?!

[S13 curtis]

Any updates?? OP Whats goin on?!

no updates yet but dont worry i havent forgot about you guys, Im still waaiting on my friend to mount the turbo and tranny hes been slacking, hopefully updates soon.

[jspaeth]

no updates yet but dont worry i havent forgot about you guys, Im still waaiting on my friend to mount the turbo and tranny hes been slacking, somebody is supposed to help him put the tranny in this week so hopefully updates soon.

You should try to do as much of this stuff yourself as you can....you will feel way more proud when you are driving the car and you did the work yourself.

just my experience.

[S13 curtis]

You should try to do as much of this stuff yourself as you can....you will feel way more proud when you are driving the car and you did the work yourself.

just my experience.

Im in Korea lol, My car is in Florida:sadwavey:

Belive me if I was back home the dyno chart wouldve been up already im pretty handy with motors.;)

All the parts to get the car running are already there except that Aeromotive FPR that i got Scammed out of by Darkist240 paid $125 for him to take off with my money and recieve nothing.

[Fishouse]

oh, forgot to add that this was with E85. you know the whole extra 30% fuel and blah blah blah

this was with a 2871r. my bad for not ebing specific
werd. 850cc at stock base pressure is 100% duty cycle at 420whp or so on E85 with my setup, but i run it richer than most would, makes more torque. FTR, i was running 6.7:1 a/f and it made MORE power than 7.5:1

[jspaeth]

Sorry, I forgot about that Curtis!

[Mosaic]

on the matter of i/c pipe size, shouldn't the hot side be larger than the cold side? Boyle's law etc? Btw isn't that turbo the same Nissan uses on an Xtrail SR20VET stock for 280+ HP low boost?

[stockbee]

good luck with this build. And I support the above posts pushing forged pistons. Spend now, save later. Isn't that how most things in life work, especially with mechanical parts and electronics?

[S13 curtis]

only update i have as of now are the TOMEI Procams and RAS were installed ill try and post pics as soon as possiable tranny and clutch are supposed to be finished this week. As far as forged pistons go im in the works of picking up a 2.2L motorset 90mm pistons and the other nic nacks.

[idahotuner]

nice a 2.2 liter. now my only question is why not use the gt3071 chra in stead of the gt2781. you would get the bigger a/r to flow more.

i never realized it was the gt2871 tell i read though this. and yes a built bottem end is nice. my last 400 hp lasted 1000 miles

[jspaeth]

nice a 2.2 liter. now my only question is why not use the gt3071 chra in stead of the gt2781. you would get the bigger a/r to flow more.

i never realized it was the gt2871 tell i read though this. and yes a built bottem end is nice. my last 400 hp lasted 1000 miles

That has got to be a bad tune or something, because there are plenty of people who push 400 whp on a stock bottom end.

What happened? Did an injector fail? Fuel pump fail?

[S13 curtis]

That has got to be a bad tune or something, because there are plenty of people who push 400 whp on a stock bottom end.

What happened? Did an injector fail? Fuel pump fail?

He must of had alot of back pressure from the tiny T2 .64 backside Too much back pressure can create detonation in the cylinder, that stuff kills motors too. If he had a .86 back side or a t3 .63 i think it wouldve been fine, my buddys KA-T blew from too much back pressure in the manifold he had a 2871r . 64 but it was stock bottom end, he now has a 50trim T3 .63 he dyno'd 414.7whp and 435wtq stock internals on E-85 and its been running for over 6 months now with no problems.

Sorry guys about the long wait,i ordered an eletric cut out today from jegs.com 32 bucks for the cut out 149.99 for the eletronic valve, it should also pick up a couple more whp on the top end im hopeing to do a dyno with the valve closed and one with it open after the tuning. my tranny still isnt in but im told it should be installed within the next 4 days.

he is a video of a stock sr20 with the eletronic cutout::2f2f:
YouTube - 240sx sr20det w/ qtp electronic 3in exhaust cutout valve (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppn-AFUxao4)

YouTube - 89 240sx w/ sr20det and electronic exhaust cutout valve (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwOtVLWqD-s)

mines shound beat the ground with the cams i have.:boink:

[jspaeth]

So what is the latest status? Are you still using the tubular? Or are you using the Stock manifold?

About the back pressure, are you suggesting this is mostly due to the small turbine housing?

Do you think that the stock manifold with T2 flange but with the special EWG-44 0.72 A/R turbine housing will relieve that backpressure issue?

[S13 curtis]

So what is the latest status? Are you still using the tubular? Or are you using the Stock manifold?

About the back pressure, are you suggesting this is mostly due to the small turbine housing?

Do you think that the stock manifold with T2 flange but with the special EWG-44 0.72 A/R turbine housing will relieve that backpressure issue?

yea im still using the tubular manifold, and i think the .72 housing should help out a bit with the back pressure issue at higher boost levels, im thinking it should spool maybe 200rpm later but it should gain close to 20whp or so give or take from the housing swap. i need studs to have the turbo connected to the manifold my friend lost 3 of them i dont know how so he has to go to ACE hardware to get some bolts for it. i really want to get this thing on the dyno already,you just dont know man it sucks waiting this long. AEM EMS still needs to be installed and maf still needs to get eliminated.

[jspaeth]

MAF elimination doesn't count as work, it takes 2 seconds.

Getting the AEM going may take some time....who is tuning it?

[S13 curtis]

MAF elimination doesn't count as work, it takes 2 seconds.

Getting the AEM going may take some time....who is tuning it?

I'm either getting it tuned at Delirum motorsport or CFT central florida turbo. I might need to have it towed to the shop.

[chuckles]

nice build!!

cant wait to see the numbers from the dyno

keep up the good work

[240Z28]

thank the s-chassis gods that u r doin something to ur bottem end.. i agree totlally w/ Z U l8r... i want to see u have fun with ur car as long as possible.. gl with build

[S13 curtis]

I should have posted this earlier:

ACT Extreme Pressure plate & lightweight flywheel

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/extremePlate.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/flywheel2.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/flywheel.jpg

:yum:

[jspaeth]

^ Which disc are you running?

I am running the ACT 6-puck, heavy duty PP, and prolite flywheel (10.5 lbs).


It looks like you went with the slightly heavier flywheel (I think that one was somewhere around 14 lbs?).


Also, why the extreme pressure plate? That thing is gonna be a fucking stairmaster! The heavy duty PP + 6 puck can hold probably 420 ft-lbs of torque++ at the wheels.....

My buddy has an extreme on his WRX, and every time I drive that, and then get in my car, it feels like my clutch is fucked up hahaha.

[S13 curtis]

^ Which disc are you running?

I am running the ACT 6-puck, heavy duty PP, and prolite flywheel (10.5 lbs).


It looks like you went with the slightly heavier flywheel (I think that one was somewhere around 14 lbs?).


Also, why the extreme pressure plate? That thing is gonna be a fucking stairmaster! The heavy duty PP + 6 puck can hold probably 420 ft-lbs of torque++ at the wheels.....

My buddy has an extreme on his WRX, and every time I drive that, and then get in my car, it feels like my clutch is fucked up hahaha.



http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Camsandclutch.jpg
LOL @ Stairmaster:rofl:

Im running an ACT 6 puck just like you lol. I picked ACT Extreme because I just wanted to get something pretty tuff that wont end up slipping in case i decided to change to a different set up later on.

[EDT007]

That's the exact reason I didn't go with an ACT on my KA-T setup. I had a 2600 on my GSX and I felt like a I was gonna have road-rage every traffic jam. I went with a Competition Clutch with ultra-light flywheel (not sure of exact weight) and it's rated at 450rwtq. It feels 100X better/lighter than my old ACT setup. Either way, can't wait to see what #'s you put down. Goodluck!

[muslimtyphoon]

You should be able to easily surpass those numbers with a Meth Injection Kit. Really affordable.

[mattsil80wis]

That's the exact reason I didn't go with an ACT on my KA-T setup. I had a 2600 on my GSX and I felt like a I was gonna have road-rage every traffic jam. I went with a Competition Clutch with ultra-light flywheel (not sure of exact weight) and it's rated at 450rwtq. It feels 100X better/lighter than my old ACT setup. Either way, can't wait to see what #'s you put down. Goodluck!


gotta remember clutches are gonna feel totally different from car to car

my nissan with the stage 3 spec is a feather
my brothers mustang with the stage 3 spec is super tough to push in

ps: how you been havent seen you in forever

[bloodangels13]

my nissan with the stage 3 spec is a feather
my brothers mustang with the stage 3 spec is super tough to push in



thats bec. the mustang is more than likely cable not hydrualic system for the clutch release.. retarded design

[240Z28]

thats bec. the mustang is more than likely cable not hydrualic system for the clutch release.. retarded design
i think its just because its a mustang:ddog:

[idahotuner]

i ran the unsprung version of this clutch it wasnt that bad. but this time i am doing the sprung version, just for longevity

[BiG MiKE86]

OP! Lets see some turbo fitment updates!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[GroundPerformance]

Let see some updates. I have the same goal as you, I will be rockin a bottom mount setup but on a KA-T.

[cotbu]

We want Food! Look at what you started! LOL!

I would like to see fitment, with the T04E compressor housing and 72ar Hot side (motor mount bracket, to compressor clearance). Oh yeah! with the tial44 fitted.

[S13 curtis]

Let see some updates. I have the same goal as you, I will be rockin a bottom mount setup but on a KA-T.

hell yea finally somebody doing 2871 KA-T action.

We want Food! Look at what you started! LOL!

I would like to see fitment, with the T04E compressor housing and 72ar Hot side (motor mount bracket, to compressor clearance). Oh yeah! with the tial44 fitted.

Here is some crums until the full course meal is ready lol.

I also ordered Precision 1000cc injectors+ Resistors along with greddy top feed fuel rail it should be in a couple days from now.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/koukilights.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/rearlights.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/rearkoukilights.jpg

enjoy.

[midnight_rex]

damn 1000 cc injectors? u planning to make 700 whp+?

740cc should be more than enough

[S13 curtis]

damn 1000 cc injectors? u planning to make 700 whp+?

740cc should be more than enough


This:

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/how-e85-ethanol-flex-fuel-works-2.jpg
;)

edit: My DW740cc injectors will go to a KA-T project after this is done.

[kalypso123]

keep it up homie

[razerremix]

Nice lights!

[BiG MiKE86]

we want turbo fitment!

[idahotuner]

i agree turbo fitment. i really want to do this with a gt3071 frame. and this exhaust housing

[jspaeth]

WTF Brah! Need to see wastegate fiment so I can decide if I am gonna buy this turbine housing!

[Sil-Eighty SE-K]

i stopped reading your mod list after i got to stock internals....

good luck with that.....hopefully it lasts longer than a couple dyno pulls

not trying to be the token pessimistic dickhead of the thread but i am skeptical of the longevity.

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$ can't spend your money...for God sakes man build the bottom end and give yourself some piece of mind. i understand racer x on forum xyz made 24320482084 horsepower for 3 years on stock bottom end without problems.....good for him, but i wouldn't waste 10 grand of my money because of that.

i would have forgone the head work if it was between that or the bottom end, but i know money's not a problem with you since you're military so i am venting strongly my opinion/suggestion that you build the bottom end.

e85 is cheap race gas and will help the stock bottom end last longer...but also e85 varies from batch to batch even at the same pump...therefore care must be taken to make sure your fuel is consistent to the tune, however duly note that even with a perfect tune....the laws of physics still apply and if that bottom end can't take it, it won't hold.

once you reach the limits of that bottom end..it's too late..

best of luck and thank you for your services

Dave


funny..... i made 442rwhp on my stock block SR20 for almost 7 years.... i sold the entire engine setup and now its in a different chassis still ripping shit up....

its all in the tune!

[S13 curtis]

Well the 1000cc injectors and Jim Wolf Tech Resistors came in today also with the Greddy Fuel Rail. Those are Precision Injectors.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/1000ccinjectors.jpg

Also i dont have an update on the turbo fitment yet the only update i have is that the motor was pulled and the flywheel tranny and clutch were installed. I will post pics of the cut-out as soon as i can, the other update is that i ordered new intercooler pipes and im ditching the small steel pipes the old pipes were 2' hot side and 2.5 on the cold side and they were pretty shitty. Thenew pipes i just purchased are Aluminum and its 3 inch coldside and 2.5 hotside,air flowshould be better. I'm also going to get a new blowoff valve im not going to use my ssqv anymore, Im either going with the new Tial Q Blow off valve which is the one im leaning towards or the Greddy type r blow off valve.

I would like to have your input on what you guys think for the BOV,thanks.

[murda-c]

Why the larger pipes on one side? is it to match the TB?

[jspaeth]

Also i dont have an update on the turbo fitment yet the only update i have is that the motor was pulled and the flywheel tranny and clutch were installed. I will post pics of the cut-out as soon as i can, the other update is that i ordered new intercooler pipes and im ditching the small steel pipes the old pipes were 2' hot side and 2.5 on the cold side and they were pretty shitty. Thenew pipes i just purchased are Aluminum and its 3 inch coldside and 2.5 hotside,air flowshould be better. I'm also going to get a new blowoff valve im not going to use my ssqv anymore, Im either going with the new Tial Q Blow off valve which is the one im leaning towards or the Greddy type r blow off valve.

I would like to have your input on what you guys think for the BOV,thanks.

Either of them is great I am sure. Can't go wrong with Tial ($$$) but apparently that Greddy Type R is pretty damn good as well.

I am considering going with that turbine housing, and then I would go with the new MV-R Tial (44mm version of the MV-S.....very low profile, 44mm V-band flanged) but I have no idea if it would hit the strut tower...

Why the larger pipes on one side? is it to match the TB?


I recall someone discussed this somewhere, earlier....basically, it's okay for the coldside to be a little bigger, but you never want it smaller than the hotside (just what I heard).

[S13 curtis]

Either of them is great I am sure. Can't go wrong with Tial ($$$) but apparently that Greddy Type R is pretty damn good as well.

I am considering going with that turbine housing, and then I would go with the new MV-R Tial (44mm version of the MV-S.....very low profile, 44mm V-band flanged) but I have no idea if it would hit the strut tower...




I recall someone discussed this somewhere, earlier....basically, it's okay for the coldside to be a little bigger, but you never want it smaller than the hotside (just what I heard).

+1
Tial 50mm Q BOV

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Blow-Off/TIL-BOV-007_450.jpg

OR

http://www.racingworks.com/images/greddyBOVr.gif

thats what i narrowed it down to, i got tired of my HKS ssqv :D.

Since the tranny is on hopefully it wont be long before the turbo is mounted i want to see it just as bad as you guys do.

[Geno750]

Not sure why so many people are hating on the stock bottom end. IIRC, Martin (ex-XAT guy, now with Zfever) is pushing a stock bottom end (I think, stock rods for sure though) to 500whp YouTube - Fever Racing s14.5 on Dyno Race Gas (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VF8Xs-lnf4)

Also, the Tial is miles better than the greddy imo.

[240Z28]

Not sure why so many people are hating on the stock bottom end. IIRC, Martin (ex-XAT guy, now with Zfever) is pushing a stock bottom end (I think, stock rods for sure though) to 500wh
well i read some where that stock rods r forged steel so stock rods r fine

[BiG MiKE86]

I am considering going with that turbine housing, and then I would go with the new MV-R Tial (44mm version of the MV-S.....very low profile, 44mm V-band flanged) but I have no idea if it would hit the strut tower...
I was just looking into this wg - this sounds like the answer for this setup. Any idea when its going to be released? I cant seem to find any pricing info or finished pics.

[jspaeth]

I was just looking into this wg - this sounds like the answer for this setup. Any idea when its going to be released? I cant seem to find any pricing info or finished pics.


It may make a difference, may not. It is maybe like an inch or 1.5 inches shorter than the previous version, so if it wasn't even close in the first place, this won't make a difference.

[idahotuner]

i read something about the expansion of the air going out of the intercooler into a 3 inch pipe when it comes in from a smaller pipe also helps drop the temp of the air going into the engine.

i wonder how hard it would be to geta bottom mount tubular manifold and weld o na External gate flange up a in the same location as on a top mount manifold seems liek it should would good

[jspaeth]

i read something about the expansion of the air going out of the intercooler into a 3 inch pipe when it comes in from a smaller pipe also helps drop the temp of the air going into the engine.

i wonder how hard it would be to geta bottom mount tubular manifold and weld o na External gate flange up a in the same location as on a top mount manifold seems liek it should would good

I strongly don't like this idea because I feel like there is a good chance that when you do this, there is a chance of significantly reducing backpressure on one cylinder more than another, potentially leaning that cylinder out.

Or if you install it, and then tune, you could be losing power bc maybe you are tuning according to knock on the one cylinder that is flowing more than the others.

I think setups with a flange off of the collector or off of the housing (even better) would be safer.

Just my 2 cents.

[idahotuner]

when i said in the same location as on a top mount manifold, i mean off the collector. just tlike 2 inches above where the custom exhuast housing will put it. on an equal length header it would be equal distance from every valve so it shouldnt have any effect.

http://www.synapseturbo.com/gallery/cache/5830c1f234ca863a85ca9de9e0efc9e9beae281d_400.jpg

put it at the same spot on this manifold.
http://backgardenco.net/images/SR20DET01-Manifold-BackgardenCo.jpg

[jspaeth]

I am probably being paranoid, but even in that synapse manifold, it looks like the wastegate would be pulling air more from cylinders 2 and 3 bc of where it is.

I REALLY like the idea of having the wastegate flange on the housing :-)

[idahotuner]

yeah i think its a cool set up. i want to see the pics of fitment. i was just thinking for welding on the 38mm waste gate flange instead of running a 44 cause those wastegates arnt cheap.

[S13 curtis]

I just purchased these from JEGS, should come in a couple days

Order Details
Qty Part Number Item Price Total
1 027-15633 Aeromotive 15633 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauges

Fuel Pressure Gauge
0-100psi
$29.99 $29.99
1 027-13159 Aeromotive 13159 - Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator

A1000 -6 Injected Bypass Regulator
30 to 70 PSI
Platinum Series
$177.99 $177.99
1 361-581406 Earl's 581406 - Earl's ''AN'' Aluminum Port (''O'' Ring Seal) Plugs

-6AN Port Plug with O-Ring Seal $4.99 $4.99
Subtotal:$212.97Processing Fee:$13.99Shipping:$0.00Total:$226.96

then im going to need to get steel braided lines for the Rail and the FPR and thats all for the fuel set up. when it come in i will post up pics.

[idahotuner]

isnt it crazy how the smaller things add up to 250 dollars almost. when doing a build you have to budget them in as one of the most expensive things. people always price out the big things but itss the little ones that will break you

[S13 curtis]

this just came in yesterday:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/fuelparts.jpg


Aeromotive A1000 platinum edition FPR
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/aeromotiveFPR.jpg

Sorry for the cell phone pics.

pipes come in sometime tomorrow according to UPS.

[jr_ss]

I am probably being paranoid, but even in that synapse manifold, it looks like the wastegate would be pulling air more from cylinders 2 and 3 bc of where it is.

I REALLY like the idea of having the wastegate flange on the housing :-)

The location of the wastegate isn't going to "pull" more air from cyl's 2 and 3. Each runner pulses the same amount theoretically, this can change based on cyl health. But you are forcing air out of that port. Air travels in the path of least resistance, so it's going to want to go out of the port regardless of where it's mounted. The same amount of air is going to leave once the gate opens and stays open to bleed off the manifold pressure. There's really a minimal chance of "leaning" out a cyl because too much air is coming out of the wastegate port. You just won't make boost.

[jr_ss]

I just purchased these from JEGS, should come in a couple days

Order Details
Qty Part Number Item Price Total
1 027-15633 Aeromotive 15633 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauges

Fuel Pressure Gauge
0-100psi
$29.99 $29.99
1 027-13159 Aeromotive 13159 - Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator

A1000 -6 Injected Bypass Regulator
30 to 70 PSI
Platinum Series
$177.99 $177.99
1 361-581406 Earl's 581406 - Earl's ''AN'' Aluminum Port (''O'' Ring Seal) Plugs

-6AN Port Plug with O-Ring Seal $4.99 $4.99
Subtotal:$212.97Processing Fee:$13.99Shipping:$0.00Total:$226.96

then im going to need to get steel braided lines for the Rail and the FPR and thats all for the fuel set up. when it come in i will post up pics.

Should've just bought a Sard...

[jspaeth]

The location of the wastegate isn't going to "pull" more air from cyl's 2 and 3. Each runner pulses the same amount theoretically, this can change based on cyl health. But you are forcing air out of that port. Air travels in the path of least resistance, so it's going to want to go out of the port regardless of where it's mounted. The same amount of air is going to leave once the gate opens and stays open to bleed off the manifold pressure. There's really a minimal chance of "leaning" out a cyl because too much air is coming out of the wastegate port. You just won't make boost.


You are saying each runner pulse the same amount, which I am saying is not necessarily true.

What I am saying, is if the wastegate flange is too much "in line" with one runner over another, and if flow out of the wastegate offers less resistance than flow through the turbine housing, then theoretically, there could be less back pressure on the cylinders whose runners' flow exits directly perpendicular to the wastegate flange opening.

Again, this is theoretical, but I would be interested to see individual pressure in each runner under normal conditions and then with this setup.


EDIT: I reread your post, and I don't think you are getting my point. My point/hypothesis is that wastegate flange location can preferentially reduce backpressure on one cylinder over another, allowing that cylinder to flow more freely

[codyace]

On the OEM manifolds we source right off the top of the manifold, venting cylinders 1 and 4 only. Never had an issue, and even never even a heat difference when checking with a thermo gun.

Sure it sounds wrong, and it may be for a professional race car, but you gotta thing, it's almost 'venting' in both aspects...as when that gate opens you're not loosing any boost ya know? I can see what you mean by allowing lets say 1-4 to breath freely as it's venting, but when the other two cylinders aren't fighting the backpressure from the other two, wouldn't they flow also the same?

[codyace]

Should've just bought a Sard...

Same difference with the Aeromotive really.


In reality, Nismo FPR would have been the cheapest and best 'fit' assuming the rail had a provision for it.

[codyace]

isnt it crazy how the smaller things add up to 250 dollars almost. when doing a build you have to budget them in as one of the most expensive things. people always price out the big things but itss the little ones that will break you

For damn sure.

I always laugh at kids who say 'oh i acn turbo my XXX for 2000 bucks'

And I think yea....with stock junk

[jr_ss]

You are saying each runner pulse the same amount, which I am saying is not necessarily true.

What I am saying, is if the wastegate flange is too much "in line" with one runner over another, and if flow out of the wastegate offers less resistance than flow through the turbine housing, then theoretically, there could be less back pressure on the cylinders whose runners' flow exits directly perpendicular to the wastegate flange opening.

Again, this is theoretical, but I would be interested to see individual pressure in each runner under normal conditions and then with this setup.


EDIT: I reread your post, and I don't think you are getting my point. My point/hypothesis is that wastegate flange location can preferentially reduce backpressure on one cylinder over another, allowing that cylinder to flow more freely

I didn't say they did, I said theoretically they do. Each cylinder's VE differs from the one next to it because of differences in intake/exhaust runner lengths and such.

I didn't miss your point. Think of where each runner joins up as a collector instead of an individual ex runner. So, as a collector, all cyl's dump into it and essentially reduce backpressure to all cyl's not just one. The side with the gate may see a bit higher reduction in backpressure, but it's not going to be a significant difference between the other two ex runners. Only "true" twinscrolls will have cyl's paired up, hence why the majority of them run twin wastegates.

[jspaeth]

I didn't say they did, I said theoretically they do. Each cylinder's VE differs from the one next to it because of differences in intake/exhaust runner lengths and such.

I didn't miss your point. Think of where each runner joins up as a collector instead of an individual ex runner. So, as a collector, all cyl's dump into it and essentially reduce backpressure to all cyl's not just one. The side with the gate may see a bit higher reduction in backpressure, but it's not going to be a significant difference between the other two ex runners. Only "true" twinscrolls will have cyl's paired up, hence why the majority of them run twin wastegates.

Okay, I'm glad you understood what I meant...I am probably just overanalyzing the situation....and the effects I am mentioning are probably not very large then.

[BiG MiKE86]

less parts - more turbo fitment! Naoooooooo

[BiG MiKE86]

that new MV-R 44mm Wastegate has been released. Not sure if u already posted a wastegate but this looks promising

Please update!

[S13 curtis]

that new MV-R 44mm Wastegate has been released. Not sure if u already posted a wastegate but this looks promising

Please update!

yea i posted a wastegate a couple pages back i already have a Tial V44 BNIB but if it dosent fit i will get the MV-R and if that dosent work something is getting banged in lol j/k this stuff should fit. but anyways im told by my buddy that the turbo will be mounted up sunday which should be tomorrow and the steel braided lines and stuff for the fuel rail should be complete and let me tell you those steel braided lines and fitting are no joke they're expensive i paid for them 2 days ago, my wife picked them up for me at Murrays speed shop. but yea My 3'' pipes also came in and ive got a crappy pics of when the cams and RAS were installed. 1000cc injectors w/Rail should be also installed. I will also be purchasing K sport control pro's from Swapped on the 1st.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/3inchpipes.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Tomei270ProcamsandRAS.jpg

My Hybrid GT2871r .72

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/GTXX71r.jpg

[jspaeth]

ah you are such a tease!!!!!

I NEED to see that turbo mounted up to the exhaust mani and then if there is enough room to squeeze an MV-R on there!!!!!

[BiG MiKE86]

im soo jealous right now...

[S13 curtis]

im soo jealous right now...

Dont be, im pretty pissed, well i got some pics up but i will need the MV-R 44, the regular V44 is too big so either im going to Bang it in with some hammer time or cut out a bit of the strut tower. Or i can get a 90* flange out on it. geeshh im frustrated.....

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/HybridGT2871r.jpg

Compressor housing came close to the Cusco motor mounts but it fit very tight lol.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/fittingturbo.jpg

And here is the pic that erked me sigh.....

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/V44fitting.jpg

but whatever i will update when i find out a solution unless you guys could think of one. im deff not putting the .64 back on.

[jspaeth]

Curtis....

can I ask you a HUGE favor, por favor (and I think it will help a whole bunch of others as well)


Is there ANY way you could (or your buddy) mock up the turbo on the OEM log manifold, just so we can see how close the wastegate flange sits to the firewall/strut tower area?

If the lines aren't hooked up, this should only take a few minutes and would be a MONSTER favor to all of us waiting to see how this will fit but want to keep the OEM manifold.


PLEASE!?!?!?!?????

EDIT:

BONUS points if you could post pics of a measurement (ruler or tape measure) from the wastegate flange to the nearest obstruction!!!!!! (with turbo on OEM exhaust mani)

[S13 curtis]

Curtis....

can I ask you a HUGE favor, por favor (and I think it will help a whole bunch of others as well)


Is there ANY way you could (or your buddy) mock up the turbo on the OEM log manifold, just so we can see how close the wastegate flange sits to the firewall/strut tower area?

If the lines aren't hooked up, this should only take a few minutes and would be a MONSTER favor to all of us waiting to see how this will fit but want to keep the OEM manifold.


PLEASE!?!?!?!?????

EDIT:

BONUS points if you could post pics of a measurement (ruler or tape measure) from the wastegate flange to the nearest obstruction!!!!!! (with turbo on OEM exhaust mani)

I will definately get a pic for you guys with the measureing tape but i think im just going to purchase 2 V band flanges and make a 90* angle and then put it on it should work fine then, i was about to give up and get a Mazworks T3 manifold and a .82 hotside and try to get around the 460 range with E-85 and decent timing i think its possiable would prolly suite the Tomei 270's better also.

About the OEM manifold ill contact my buddy and see if he can get a mock up with my stock manifold. I'm actually thinking about selling the megan manifold with the EWG V44 housing i dont really have the time to have something made for the wastegate :(.

[S13 curtis]

Im probly going this route with a Twin scroll T3 Manifold

GT28RS/2871R 0.82 A/R T3 DIVIDED Turbine Housing : atpturbo.com (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-102&Category_Code=GTH)

pricey but i like to be different. I will most likely end up selling the .72 backside with manifold and megan elbow for dirt cheap.

[jspaeth]

Well, I am REALLY curious to see if it fits with that housing on a stock manifold and MV-R.

Until you measure, no one knows. And since you already have the parts, it is your duty to your fellow Zilivians to mock it up on the stock mani and take the measurement...

Seriously, pleaseeeeeeee?


anyway, I am hoping (but not sure why it would be so) that the exhaust mani flange for the oem manifold may sit closer to the motor than the tubular you have.

[BiG MiKE86]

It looks like the MV-R is going to come in a hair under 4". Please post a pic with a reference dimension if you can. And if your lookin to sell that housing LMK! I will take it

[idahotuner]

send me a PM when you decided to post the stuff

[jspaeth]

Ahhh the suspense! Curtis, I need pics son!

[BiG MiKE86]

Ahhh the suspense! Curtis, I need pics son!
x1000000000000000000000 bazillion

[jspaeth]

Ahhhhhhhhhh need measurements brahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[jspaeth]

Measurement pics, may help people.....I think this is with a regular V44 Tial (old design, new ones like 1 inch shorter or so (MV-R)....

VWvortex Forums: T25-EWG-44 housing (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4354560#57066841)

[cotbu]

A Different Option
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Vehicle%20Specific/ATP-VEVO-023_450-2.jpg

[jspaeth]

A Different Option
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Vehicle%20Specific/ATP-VEVO-023_450-2.jpg


To be honest, that lools cool and all, but those pipes are TINY and have GOT to be putting a lot of backpressure on the system.....

[BiG MiKE86]

UPDATES!! or Ban :)

[drag113]

probly around the $200 ballpark for the extrude hone from the local machine shop. i was also looking at the tomei expreme manifold because its basicly the same thing as a ported out stock manifold since its based on the same design.



who does the EH for that price around the area?

waiting to see if there are no clearance issues w/ the MVR! im thinking about the same setup

[codyace]

who does the EH for that price around the area?

waiting to see if there are no clearance issues w/ the MVR! im thinking about the same setup


EH for 200 bucks seems like an awesome deal, but something seems 'a miss' here.

[codyace]

To be honest, that lools cool and all, but those pipes are TINY and have GOT to be putting a lot of backpressure on the system.....

For sure.

Probably cheaper to run a 38 off th emanifold and save the multiple pieces

[drag113]

EH for 200 bucks seems like an awesome deal, but something seems 'a miss' here.

If i cant find a reasonable pice for it I was thinking porting/polishing the runners is just as effective?

[jspaeth]

If i cant find a reasonable pice for it I was thinking porting/polishing the runners is just as effective?


No. Also, due to the design of the manifold, it is nearly impossible to get more than an inch or two into each runner before it bends beyond the point where you could ever see what you are doing.

Porting/polishing the openings could help a bit, but is nowhere near as good as the EH.

If I were a baller I would do the EH, but I just can't justify the $600-$700 for that and the swain-coat right now. That is something i would do if everything else was working at it's optimum and I wanted that last little bit of an edge.

....or if the price was lower haha

[drag113]

No. Also, due to the design of the manifold, it is nearly impossible to get more than an inch or two into each runner before it bends beyond the point where you could ever see what you are doing.

Porting/polishing the openings could help a bit, but is nowhere near as good as the EH.

If I were a baller I would do the EH, but I just can't justify the $600-$700 for that and the swain-coat right now. That is something i would do if everything else was working at it's optimum and I wanted that last little bit of an edge.

....or if the price was lower haha

I think for that id rather take the plungs and buy the isis tubular manifold. If enjuku stands behind the product then its fine by me :)

[S13 curtis]

Sry guys its been a while, I was in the field for a little over a week for some training and i also Purchased an Evo VIII the other week, thats why it was put on hold for a little bit. Im going to use the Tial V44 but it will have a 90* bend from the turbine housing, supposed to get that done sometime next week from the local muffler shop along with the Cutout & bung for the AIT sensor on the IC pipes. Then from there it will hit the dyno.

The only thing i know got done from last time i posted was the Ait sensor, boost solenoid, and Map sensor were pinned into the harness and the fuel setup is finished i will post pics of that as soon as the pics get e-mailed to me.

[codyace]

I think for that id rather take the plungs and buy the isis tubular manifold. If enjuku stands behind the product then its fine by me :)

Do you have any real reasoning for this, or just 'nutswinging' your favorite store? Enjuku is a godo company, but just because a person supports a product doesn't' mean they'll actually use it. Tubular manifolds are ticking 'crack' bombs...and not to mention their poor heat retention results in poor spool up...to the point where it's 'potential' top end gains are not worth the loss of torque.

Sry guys its been a while, I was in the field for a little over a week for some training and i also Purchased an Evo VIII the other week, thats why it was put on hold for a little bit. Im going to use the Tial V44 but it will have a 90* bend from the turbine housing, supposed to get that done sometime next week from the local muffler shop along with the Cutout & bung for the AIT sensor on the IC pipes. Then from there it will hit the dyno.

The only thing i know got done from last time i posted was the Ait sensor, boost solenoid, and Map sensor were pinned into the harness and the fuel setup is finished i will post pics of that as soon as the pics get e-mailed to me.

Uh oh, you're spoiled now. Poor s13, that Evo is his new GF :)

Coming back from an exercise is always fun...but exhausting!

[drag113]

Do you have any real reasoning for this, or just 'nutswinging' your favorite store? Enjuku is a godo company, but just because a person supports a product doesn't' mean they'll actually use it. Tubular manifolds are ticking 'crack' bombs...and not to mention their poor heat retention results in poor spool up...to the point where it's 'potential' top end gains are not worth the loss of torque.

lol. im familiar with your views on tubulars based on ur posts. id honestly take the plunge with the isis which looks pretty decent than spend $5-600 for extrude hone and swain coat it. im not gonna get too on check what qualities that both have over eachother. i could just stick with the stocker rather than choose the isis but i choose not to. the differences between stock iron clunkers and tubulars are not really a crucial topic for comparing powerband differences anyways. we're not NA guys microanalyzing runner / collector properties for benefits. tubulars have their own major benefits anyways. you're really underating them IMO. i dont see full race bulding 800whp cars with iron manifolds

[jspaeth]

lol. im familiar with your views on tubulars based on ur posts. id honestly take the plunge with the isis which looks pretty decent than spend $5-600 for extrude hone and swain coat it. im not gonna get too on check what qualities that both have over eachother. i could just stick with the stocker rather than choose the isis but i choose not to. the differences between stock iron clunkers and tubulars are not really a crucial topic for comparing powerband differences anyways. we're not NA guys microanalyzing runner / collector properties for benefits. tubulars have their own major benefits anyways. you're really underating them IMO. i dont see full race bulding 800whp cars with iron manifolds

You just unknowingly said the key thing.

800 hp cars of course don't use the stock mani, bc with THAT much flow, it is restrictive.

However, for a 2871R, the stock manifold is right at the limit of the "break even point"....

For smaller turbos, going with a tubular is just stupid, bc it steals so much torque and the turbo can't flow up top itself anyway.

For larger turbos 30R and up, the stock manifold IS restrictive, and you should use a tubular and it's better up-top flow properties to match those of the turbo.

Time and time again, we have seen that the best "area under the curve" dyno sheets on cars with 2871R on and SR come with stock manifold.

[efrain240sx]

What if the 2871R had a T3 housing instead of a T2, would it still be better to go with a cast-iron manifold, or would a tubular manifold be better. I only ask this question because i have only seen one person run a T3 housing and they didn't post up much info on it.

P.S. sorry for the thread jack, and i cant wait to see some dyno numbers =)

[bb4_96]

I wonder if the higher velocity of exhaust gas flowing through the stock manifold would spool faster than slower exhaust gas moving through larger runners of an aftermarket tubular manifold.

[jspaeth]

What if the 2871R had a T3 housing instead of a T2, would it still be better to go with a cast-iron manifold, or would a tubular manifold be better. I only ask this question because i have only seen one person run a T3 housing and they didn't post up much info on it.

P.S. sorry for the thread jack, and i cant wait to see some dyno numbers =)

The compressor side of this turbo just isn't gonna flow well enough past 7000 RPM or so to make it worth it.

I wonder if the higher velocity of exhaust gas flowing through the stock manifold would spool faster than slower exhaust gas moving through larger runners of an aftermarket tubular manifold.

Yes, of course.

[jacobs13]

I wanna see how this comes out. I have almost the same setup but built block and power fc. keep us informed

[derass]

i am also interested to see if that T04e housing clears the stock manifold... i have a tial bov and it causes surge at part throttle.... a good solution would be the ported option on this housing

[STR8E180]

A Different Option
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Vehicle%20Specific/ATP-VEVO-023_450-2.jpg
that wont work on a SR20 or any garrett GT series turbo

it will work on a evo
reason is because the evo turbos have a wall between the gate and turbine
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/evo_wastegate.jpg


sr20 turbo
garrett GT series

http://www.jgycustoms.com/240sx/images/jgybb37r.jpg

[S13 curtis]

i am also interested to see if that T04e housing clears the stock manifold... i have a tial bov and it causes surge at part throttle.... a good solution would be the ported option on this housing

It will def clear the stock manifold.
Not my motor but here is a clearence pic, hope this helps

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Fitment.jpg


Well i decided to keep the setup i had for sale but now im keeping it to drive on with this because i dont want to let you guys down and have an unfinished project. My friend was supposed to get an angle welded but i guess he is too lazy or something, i keep getting the next week thing week after week so im just going to have my wife bring the V band flanges to the muffler shop to get a 2"X2" 90 bend made so this can get finished already, im pretty sure i can net somewhere around 450whp on a dynojet with this from the reasearch ive been doing. I just need to have the BOV flange welded on the new 3inch alluminum pipes and it will pretty much be done. i really just dont like posting on this thread unless i have updates. sorry guys.

[jspaeth]

Are you still overseas? This is taking FOREVER!!!!!!!

AND I never got to see the fitment of that special turbine housing on the stock manifold....

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO :-/

[S13 curtis]

Are you still overseas? This is taking FOREVER!!!!!!!

AND I never got to see the fitment of that special turbine housing on the stock manifold....

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO :-/

yes still over seas :( im putting in for vacation soon....

I think my friend is too lazy to test fit it with the stock manifold, i cant even get him to mock up the intercooler pipes.

[cotbu]

that wont work on a SR20 or any garrett GT series turbo

it will work on a evo
reason is because the evo turbos have a wall between the gate and turbine



sr20 turbo
garrett GT series


Just Think Different!
I haven't seen this work, but I'm sure I can make it work!
I already solved my creep problem, but I wanna run an external!
I don't want to change it to much (350 setup), I'm a superstitious personality.
So I can bolt this on, and if it fails, Only I would know :evil laugh:

[S13 curtis]

Ok guys got pics and just about everything is installed except the blow off valve and it needs some aluminum welded, the injectors and ss lines are finally on, this is real close to hitting the dyno. :p

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/aem2e.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/FPR.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/fuelrail.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/sr20-2.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/GT2871r72.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/my240.jpg


After the dyno i will install coilovers, wheels and the Origin kit i already have.

[ka-turbo]

i would check those wirings by the hot pipe outlet just after the turbo....and as far as teh larger cold side to smaller hot side...dont you lose about a 1 or 2 or more PSI through the intercooler? and if soo wouldnt you just do a slightly larger hot side with a slightly smaller cold side to keep velocities up......wicked kool thread cant wait for you to be done wit it...and see how long youve been driving on it for...i deff want this turbo setup done on my 240 and pushing over 400whp on my KA-T setup with reliability and lasting....i would also wanna push it in the 7000 rpm range but im not too sure it would be able to flow for that and make power....any comments on that felow zilvians???....

[S13 curtis]

The car is at GATO Performance Shop right now getting some work done to it and it will get picked up in the morning and i will provide the wastegate setup along with other goodies that ae getting done.

[McCoy]

It will def clear the stock manifold.
Not my motor but here is a clearence pic, hope this helps

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Fitment.jpg



Thought this picture looked familiar, it's mine :). That's a GT2876R and it clears, but only if you grind off some material from the motor mount bracket, just so there's no confusion here.

[e1_griego]

Yup, that's on my car now, and it fits fine besides some clearancing of the motor mount bracket.

[S13 curtis]

Thought this picture looked familiar, it's mine :). That's a GT2876R and it clears, but only if you grind off some material from the motor mount bracket, just so there's no confusion here.

Thats def a nice set up you had, what did you put down?

[McCoy]

I never ran it, changed to a T3/T04E 50 trim with a JGS log manifold and haven't looked back.

[e1_griego]

Thats def a nice set up you had, what did you put down?

I think you missed where I said that setup (purchased from McCoy) is on my car now ;)

It makes 340/300 @ 14psi (dynojet obviously haha).

[steve shadows]

Honestly I have seen cars spool up faster and make better HP and Torque curves with a cheapo 50 TRIM T04E compressor and a smaller turbine than any of the 2871R setups.

If you want to have a great setup for spool up use a T04E 50 TRIM Garrett wheel with a .60 AR T04B ported compressor housing, then use a .48 turbine housing T3 with Stage 3 turbine wheel.

At 22 PSI you should be right around 415 WHP range, even on a real dyno, like Dyno Dynamics, which is about 25% better output than most 2871R setups can reach at 18-20 PSI range.

If your goal is to have a more efficient turbo than stock, with a bit more output and bolt on then I think the 2871R is a great option. But it seems like from the very beginning people have been led to believe that you just bolt on a 2871R variant and you automatically get 400 flywheel or even wheel HP. In my expereince it's a dream. Only on dyno jets, with correction runnin in the background, a lucky run or very controlled conditions. And then it's hard for it to even be replicated. On brake eddy dynos the 2871R variants only make it up to around 360 whp MAX. Sometimes 375. Which is amazing for such a small turbo.

If you want a bolt on turbo with true high output capability I suggest a GT3071R with T28 flanged housing. Or even better the 3076R with T28 flange - both of these we have tuned up to the 400-430 whp range, even on pump gas a few times.

Even on pump gas, 50 TRIM on a 100% stock redtop we have done 375 WHP pulls on the DD, (425 WHP on a DJ) on 91 octane with only HKS cams and Haltech EMS and larger injectors.

True 430 WHP I would say test the car on a dyno dynamics. Otherwise you are just giving me a number that represents the speed at which your cars engine can turn a given fixed weight up to a given speed.

[tougefactory]

Our S14 with S14 SR20DET with 2871r put down 393whp at 18psi on pump gas. This was done on 75deg day, on Dyno Dynamics.
We haven't had time to tune on race gas yet, but should be able hit close to 430whp.

So it is possible :)

[whereda40at]

should have gone with a gt2876r. i made 380hp on a mustang dyno on 18psi and on pump gas. dont have a copy of my dyno sheet but m-a can vouch for it. just last week i made a 11.20 pass at 121 mph. that really is a great turbo for staying t-2 bottom mount and i am still internally wastegated.

[S13 curtis]

I dont think i can get it on a DD because i dont think we have any close by, but there are local Mustang Dyno shops, My evo 8 put down 551whp on 93 pump gas+meth on a mustang dyno thats not to far from me.

[S13 curtis]

Well i finally got the car back from Gato's shop got the Cutout welded on and the *90 bend for the Tial V44, i will get a pic with the wastegate on ASAP and post it but this is what was done so far.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gato04.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gato05.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gato03.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gato02.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gatoshop.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gatos.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/gatoscutout.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/newfitment.jpg

Enjoy until i get pics with it mounted.:boink:

[idahotuner]

yeah dude. i still am waiting for your dyno results with this. and more pics!!!

[S13 curtis]

yeah dude. i still am waiting for your dyno results with this. and more pics!!!

more pics will be up soon i just need to get another inlet clamp for the wastegate and 90* bend and then just fluids and fuel and its dyno time :drool:

[OneSicSilvia]

Thats a pretty looking battery tray lol. Car looks good man.

[idahotuner]

have you seen the new tomei arms turbo.http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-announcements-feedback/334692-frsport-new-tomei-arms-m8270-m7960-turbos.html

[S13 curtis]

have you seen the new tomei arms turbo.http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-announcements-feedback/334692-frsport-new-tomei-arms-m8270-m7960-turbos.html


Yea they are pretty sick, it kinda reminds me of a 20g. I hope somebody gets one to try it out and its rebuildable.

[codyace]

Honestly I have seen cars spool up faster and make better HP and Torque curves with a cheapo 50 TRIM T04E compressor and a smaller turbine than any of the 2871R setups.

If you want to have a great setup for spool up use a T04E 50 TRIM Garrett wheel with a .60 AR T04B ported compressor housing, then use a .48 turbine housing T3 with Stage 3 turbine wheel.

There is no doubt about this setup - I ran this exact turbo on my Altima almost 7/8 years ago now. I initially went with a really small .48 housing, but the 2.4 liked the the .63. I'm certain with the .48 and the smaller 2.0 it would be much better as steve says.

Another thing for new guys contemplating this, is to consider though is overall cost. Lets consider the cams and inlet manifold already part of the equation, and just 'exhaust' related parts.

To make 400 whp with a 2871r .64:

1000 Turbo
200 Greddy J Pipe
125 downpipe
500 bucks for Extrude Hone
175 for Swain Coat

2000ish Dollars

To make the same power, perhaps another 20 whp with a T3T4

550 Turbo
800-900 dollar manifold
350 for Tial 44mm
50 to 100 for a v band tube tube
250-500 for a custom downpipe w/vband

2000ish small end/2400ish big end.
(Sure prices are high, as I use new part prices...I never consider used stuff when 'pricing' anything, as they to often are not stable and or never around when you need them...I always just use prices new, and then any money saved is a 'perk' of going used.)

Both will work, and probably cost the same in the end. One can be installed in a weekend, one requires fab work to make it fit. In the end though, the Top Mount setup could easily make more power, but at the expense of a few more hundred dollars.



At 22 PSI you should be right around 415 WHP range, even on a real dyno, like Dyno Dynamics, which is about 25% better output than most 2871R setups can reach at 18-20 PSI range.

So how do real dyno numbers relate to the physics involved with trap speeds and weight to relative torque of a car ;)

The best dyno is trap speed, not what each computer calculates hehe (luvya!)



If your goal is to have a more efficient turbo than stock, with a bit more output and bolt on then I think the 2871R is a great option. But it seems like from the very beginning people have been led to believe that you just bolt on a 2871R variant and you automatically get 400 flywheel or even wheel HP. In my expereince it's a dream. Only on dyno jets, with correction runnin in the background, a lucky run or very controlled conditions. And then it's hard for it to even be replicated. On brake eddy dynos the 2871R variants only make it up to around 360 whp MAX. Sometimes 375. Which is amazing for such a small turbo.

While I don't agree with Steve in the 'lucky' aspect, as it's easy to duplicate my setup to create a 120/122 trap speed car. Problem is, everyone has a little variation, or wants to skimp here/there, or use different parts alltogether (if I had a dollar for every person that asked me how to copy my exact setup, but using BC or other junk cams, or this type o fmanifold, or that type of whatever, I'd be a millionaire...I always tell them 'if you want to make the power, copy my setup exact)

Don't get me wrong, there was a lot of money/time and genuine resarch from my FWD days (more hands on that most) to get to this point, but It's there, and I've been there now for quite some time. Looking back was it worth the extra stuff to get there? Well, maybe, but today there are certainly easier options to make a 120 car than when I built mine (this side of a big lazy turbo). Bottom line is a v8 would be the easiest (and probably equal cost) and be much more reliablew for turnkey abuse.



If you want a bolt on turbo with true high output capability I suggest a GT3071R with T28 flanged housing. Or even better the 3076R with T28 flange - both of these we have tuned up to the 400-430 whp range, even on pump gas a few times.

While true, it's got much less response than the 2871r, and is even more mismatched of a setup than the 2871r. Reason why you see quite a few t2 flanged 30r's puke.


True 430 WHP I would say test the car on a dyno dynamics. Otherwise you are just giving me a number that represents the speed at which your cars engine can turn a given fixed weight up to a given speed.

Why not get trap speeds to *really* know? Lets be serious, the DD or Mustang dynos are better for 'tuning' but in the grand scheme, but all dynos of every type are easily manipulated. For guys that don't know the difference, the goal is to remain constant with dyno type used, and or the exact same dyno. If you're doing HP pulls and want to see if parts made and incrase, you should always try to duplicate the 'conditions' as best as possible and use the same dyno. We see to many people dyno on a MD at Shop A, and then come to a DynoJet at our place, and have different numbers (some high some low) and we never 'really' see if the mods made a measurable/worthwhile difference.

[codyace]

have you seen the new tomei arms turbo.http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-announcements-feedback/334692-frsport-new-tomei-arms-m8270-m7960-turbos.html

Can't say it's anything spectacular, nor it it anything I'd beleive either.


1. Not a real dyno graph
2. Not stated if WHP or Crankpower (probably crank, due to graph)
3. It's a 2.2 liter, so even if numbers were 'real' it's false to assume it even remotely applies to a 2.0
4. It's internal gate (yuck)

Is the price good? Yea I guess...however if you want to really make a comparison, the regular 2871 setup's we see on here make equal if not better power than the ARMS kit.

[jspaeth]

There is no doubt about this setup - I ran this exact turbo on my Altima almost 7/8 years ago now. I initially went with a really small .48 housing, but the 2.4 liked the the .63. I'm certain with the .48 and the smaller 2.0 it would be much better as steve says.

Another thing for new guys contemplating this, is to consider though is overall cost. Lets consider the cams and inlet manifold already part of the equation, and just 'exhaust' related parts.

To make 400 whp with a 2871r .64:

1000 Turbo
200 Greddy J Pipe
125 downpipe
500 bucks for Extrude Hone
175 for Swain Coat

2000ish Dollars

To make the same power, perhaps another 20 whp with a T3T4

550 Turbo
800-900 dollar manifold
350 for Tial 44mm
50 to 100 for a v band tube tube
250-500 for a custom downpipe w/vband

2000ish small end/2400ish big end.
(Sure prices are high, as I use new part prices...I never consider used stuff when 'pricing' anything, as they to often are not stable and or never around when you need them...I always just use prices new, and then any money saved is a 'perk' of going used.)

Both will work, and probably cost the same in the end. One can be installed in a weekend, one requires fab work to make it fit. In the end though, the Top Mount setup could easily make more power, but at the expense of a few more hundred dollars.




So how do real dyno numbers relate to the physics involved with trap speeds and weight to relative torque of a car ;)

The best dyno is trap speed, not what each computer calculates hehe (luvya!)




While I don't agree with Steve in the 'lucky' aspect, as it's easy to duplicate my setup to create a 120/122 trap speed car. Problem is, everyone has a little variation, or wants to skimp here/there, or use different parts alltogether (if I had a dollar for every person that asked me how to copy my exact setup, but using BC or other junk cams, or this type o fmanifold, or that type of whatever, I'd be a millionaire...I always tell them 'if you want to make the power, copy my setup exact)

Don't get me wrong, there was a lot of money/time and genuine resarch from my FWD days (more hands on that most) to get to this point, but It's there, and I've been there now for quite some time. Looking back was it worth the extra stuff to get there? Well, maybe, but today there are certainly easier options to make a 120 car than when I built mine (this side of a big lazy turbo). Bottom line is a v8 would be the easiest (and probably equal cost) and be much more reliablew for turnkey abuse.




While true, it's got much less response than the 2871r, and is even more mismatched of a setup than the 2871r. Reason why you see quite a few t2 flanged 30r's puke.



Why not get trap speeds to *really* know? Lets be serious, the DD or Mustang dynos are better for 'tuning' but in the grand scheme, but all dynos of every type are easily manipulated. For guys that don't know the difference, the goal is to remain constant with dyno type used, and or the exact same dyno. If you're doing HP pulls and want to see if parts made and incrase, you should always try to duplicate the 'conditions' as best as possible and use the same dyno. We see to many people dyno on a MD at Shop A, and then come to a DynoJet at our place, and have different numbers (some high some low) and we never 'really' see if the mods made a measurable/worthwhile difference.


I'm just not sure how trapping 120 or so in a 2700-2800 pound car is "getting lucky"....

[idahotuner]

Can't say it's anything spectacular, nor it it anything I'd beleive either.


1. Not a real dyno graph
2. Not stated if WHP or Crankpower (probably crank, due to graph)
3. It's a 2.2 liter, so even if numbers were 'real' it's false to assume it even remotely applies to a 2.0
4. It's internal gate (yuck)

Is the price good? Yea I guess...however if you want to really make a comparison, the regular 2871 setup's we see on here make equal if not better power than the ARMS kit.

i would compare it with a gt2871r .86. seems like the better route to go for me. since i am a 2.2liter and want to stay bottom mount. those arms turbos are getting bought up quick. so we should see some numbers soon.

i am talking to a guy from germany, his handel on here and nico is thomas i guess. he has a youtube vids of his 2.2liter sr with and hks gt3037 lay down some serious power.YouTube - &#x202a;Dyno SR22DET S13 June 2009.wmv&#x202c;&lrm; (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE8Fnz7hw_Y)

i will ask about that being a crank or wheel dyno.

here is the tomei pamphlet for these turbos http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/inf/pdf/166-AE-A4.pdf

[idahotuner]

those are crank numbers on an engine dyno the factory pamphlet say so. well thats disappointing

[codyace]

I'm just not sure how trapping 120 or so in a 2700-2800 pound car is "getting lucky"....

It's just a shame I won't go back to get my ET any lower. Should be capable of a low 11, but a mid 11 isn't bad for a road race car ;)

i would compare it with a gt2871r .86. seems like the better route to go for me. since i am a 2.2liter and want to stay bottom mount. those arms turbos are getting bought up quick. so we should see some numbers soon.

Whats the reason for bottom mount? All signs point to a smaller frame topmount IMO. More energy, an you can take advantage of the extra cubes to spool that larger turbine at the same rate (while taking advantage of the larger compressor to make more HP)

To me, that ARM's turbo is a waste. 460 crank power is how much you made before with a 2.0 and a smaller turbo...why would you want to make the same? I'd run for a smaller Borg Warner or a mid range 30r if I were you...much better options for the 2.2 than a bottom mount t2 flanged snail.

[Jo4nxj220]

I wanna see this thing in action! lol

[idahotuner]

Whats the reason for bottom mount? All signs point to a smaller frame topmount IMO. More energy, an you can take advantage of the extra cubes to spool that larger turbine at the same rate (while taking advantage of the larger compressor to make more HP)

To me, that ARM's turbo is a waste. 460 crank power is how much you made before with a 2.0 and a smaller turbo...why would you want to make the same? I'd run for a smaller Borg Warner or a mid range 30r if I were you...much better options for the 2.2 than a bottom mount t2 flanged snail.

yeah.for now i have to run a t25 cause that is all i can afford. lol

[idahotuner]

well i got a good deal on a gt2871r .86 so we will see what happens with it. might not be a dyno tell next spring or later this fall.

[S13 curtis]

Haha wastegate is HUGE lol.. its jus about done now all i need to do is add E-85 and fluid flush new oil, coolant, gear oil etc.. I should pull down the T2 record with this, im going to be running 26-28 psi and belive me this turbo still makes power after 22psi. This should be on the dyno soon i have to make an appointment :cool:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs192.ash2/45501_144913762209514_100000726732703_283881_51215 99_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=107070&id=100000726732703)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs180.ash2/44336_144913608876196_100000726732703_283880_74338 93_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=107070&id=100000726732703)

[Om1kron]

oh nice, is that the mvs wastegate or one of the older larger models.

[S13 curtis]

oh nice, is that the mvs wastegate or one of the older larger models.

Thanks,Its the origional Tial V44 not the MV-R.

[jspaeth]

I should pull down the T2 record with this


Remind me again what you are doing that makes you so sure about this....not doubting that you can do it, just remind me what is special about your setup


Oh and also, are you talking about "record" as in peak horsepower? Peak torque? Best powerband?


I think with that manifold you may see a high peak hp number, but your area under the curve will probably be poorer than a bunch of other setups out there

[S13 curtis]

Remind me again what you are doing that makes you so sure about this....not doubting that you can do it, just remind me what is special about your setup


Oh and also, are you talking about "record" as in peak horsepower? Peak torque? Best powerband?


I think with that manifold you may see a high peak hp number, but your area under the curve will probably be poorer than a bunch of other setups out there

Peak of course, i drag more than drift, but the power band should be good E-85 also help out alot as far as spool and power. I made it for more power up top reason why i went with tomei 270 procams.

Special things about my set up/Different:
-T04E 3071R Compressor
-.72 Turbine housing
-Tial V44
-E85
-3"Cutout
-Standalone EMS
-Tomei 270 duration cams i think one other person used this on here.

I just have high expectations for it especially when im not using the same setup as most people on here. Like BC264, enthalpy tune,52 trim .64 2871,93 pump gas 740 injectors etc and putting down 320-340whp on a dynojet.

Ive seen a couple people do something different on this board like codyace(extrude honing and JWT cams),4x4le (E85,Nistune),Idaho tuner (24psi lol), DrifterProdigy85 (Tomei 270 procams 12Xmph traps in the quarter), etc. they have all been sucessful with going 4XXwhp.

If i dont put down atleast 400 i honestly would be dissapointed. So im going to stop with the Bench Racing and let it put down the numbers.

[jspaeth]

Wait so what turbo is this exactly?

Is it a 2871R with a 3071R (T04E with 3" inlet) compressor housing and the EWG-44 turbine housing?

So it's just a 2871R with different housings, right?

Paired with those cams and E85.....


On pump gas, with those cams, I would guess that you could put down 410 or 420+, peak power, but it is not going to be anywhere near as responsive as Cody's setup for example.


My guess is that on pump gas, you won't see 300 ft-lbs until at least 4500 RPM or so.

[S13 curtis]

Wait so what turbo is this exactly?

Is it a 2871R with a 3071R (T04E with 3" inlet) compressor housing and the EWG-44 turbine housing?

So it's just a 2871R with different housings, right?

Paired with those cams and E85.....


On pump gas, with those cams, I would guess that you could put down 410 or 420+, peak power, but it is not going to be anywhere near as responsive as Cody's setup for example.


My guess is that on pump gas, you won't see 300 ft-lbs until at least 4500 RPM or so.

4"inch inlet and yes 2871 with different housings. but yea def not as responsive as codys, his is fuckin nasty with a sick ass powerband lol.

[codyace]

well i got a good deal on a gt2871r .86 so we will see what happens with it. might not be a dyno tell next spring or later this fall.

Whatever happened to the last 2871r you had? And the motor as well?



Peak of course, i drag more than drift, but the power band should be good E-85 also help out alot as far as spool and power. I made it for more power up top reason why i went with tomei 270 procams.

Special things about my set up/Different:
-T04E 3071R Compressor
-.72 Turbine housing
-Tial V44
-E85
-3"Cutout
-Standalone EMS
-Tomei 270 duration cams i think one other person used this on here.

It's a nice setup, but in the same regard I think you're really restricting yourself trying to stay T2 for some odd reason, other than to run an insane amount of boost and timing to make a number...when you could just run a top mount, lower boost, and really make some power with a larger turbine y aknow? As a drag guy I understand peak is key, but under the curve is much more important than peak...unless you're chasing trap speeds that is.

I mean, my car when 11.6 at 120.....which isn't bad (should be a low 11 with more time and a drag suspension), so it's proven that the traditional setup could nail you a high 10 with a lighter car...so I don't know why you'd not just go big topmount and really make hp

(again not trying to sound dicky or take anything away, it's a neat setup, but seems counter productive to a point)


Ive seen a couple people do something different on this board like codyace(extrude honing and JWT cams),4x4le (E85,Nistune),Idaho tuner (24psi lol), DrifterProdigy85 (Tomei 270 procams 12Xmph traps in the quarter), etc. they have all been sucessful with going 4XXwhp.

I'm glad I'm the pump gas guy on that list :D

[S13 curtis]

It's a nice setup, but in the same regard I think you're really restricting yourself trying to stay T2 for some odd reason, other than to run an insane amount of boost and timing to make a number...when you could just run a top mount, lower boost, and really make some power with a larger turbine y aknow? As a drag guy I understand peak is key, but under the curve is much more important than peak...unless you're chasing trap speeds that is.

I mean, my car when 11.6 at 120.....which isn't bad (should be a low 11 with more time and a drag suspension), so it's proven that the traditional setup could nail you a high 10 with a lighter car...so I don't know why you'd not just go big topmount and really make hp

(again not trying to sound dicky or take anything away, it's a neat setup, but seems counter productive to a point)



I'm glad I'm the pump gas guy on that list :D

Yea your right, the only reason i stayed T2 is because i didnt want to have alot of custom work done because my my friend would of probly had a hard time. I also wanted to try something different with the new EWG V44 housing and nobody had tried it yet so i decided to be the first lol, i even tried to sell the set up cheap at one time for 1k shipped and jus kept getting people that flake.I actually was looking to put a Holset HX40 on it and run that set up if i got rid of this one, i think that wouldve been a nice set up.

but as of now im thinking of getting a splitfire coilpack set up and some Weld&Mickey Thompson Big and skinnys as far a wheel tire choice for drag.

[PoorMans180SX]

I hope you realize that exhaust manifold's collector flows like dog crap.

[jspaeth]

I hope you realize that exhaust manifold's collector flows like dog crap.

Hahahaha man that was so blunt

[Z28ricer]

I'm betting you dont put down that impressive on the numbers either, the main reason being you started with the 2871, and then added the big compressor cover, however this still sticks you with the 53.8mm exhaust wheel used in the GT2860RS/GT2871, if you had started with an actual 3071R, then you'd have the 60mm turbine side, and the potential to make more power, and that external gated housing is avail for the 60mm wheel, which makes me really go "yeah shoulda done it this way"

For a good example of what I mean, take a look at the factory GTiR turbo vs the S14/15 T28, the gtir has a smaller T3 compressor housing, the same compressor wheel, yet its rated for 2 lbs/min more airflow due to the 79 trim exhaust vs the S14/15's 62 trim.

[S13 curtis]

I'm betting you dont put down that impressive on the numbers either, the main reason being you started with the 2871, and then added the big compressor cover, however this still sticks you with the 53.8mm exhaust wheel used in the GT2860RS/GT2871, if you had started with an actual 3071R, then you'd have the 60mm turbine side, and the potential to make more power, and that external gated housing is avail for the 60mm wheel, which makes me really go "yeah shoulda done it this way"

For a good example of what I mean, take a look at the factory GTiR turbo vs the S14/15 T28, the gtir has a smaller T3 compressor housing, the same compressor wheel, yet its rated for 2 lbs/min more airflow due to the 79 trim exhaust vs the S14/15's 62 trim.


I already had a 2871R to begin with so i decided to use it.... Also if i decided to go with a 30R it definately wouldnt be a 3071 it would be an HTA3076R or something better because these turbos are actually pretty outdated now so to say.

[Z28ricer]

Yeah, I figured, i'm sure it will still perform well, I just dont see it doing anything spectacular due to the smaller exhaust wheel.

[idahotuner]

[quote=codyace;3603074]Whatever happened to the last 2871r you had? And the motor as well?

/quote]
motor is sitting in my garage. just need to put the oil pan on and cams in. should be going in the car this weekend.

[Z33dori]

I hope you realize that exhaust manifold's collector flows like dog crap.


factual fact is factual

[S13 curtis]

I hope you realize that exhaust manifold's collector flows like dog crap.

Im pretty sure the manifold will flow better than an unported stock manifold, and yea the collectors on these t2 manifolds suck.

[S13 curtis]

Well im back in the states now and I actually got a chance to check my car out for the first time and man it is huge and i mean huge compared to the regular 2871, pics dont say much but in person its a big difference and by the way the exhaust housing is T3 .72 a/r with a T2 flange bolt pattern on it if nobody gets this i will explain. The last piece comes in today which is a silicone coupler i was missing. I should have the car started probly tomorrow and i will try to get a startup and walk around video for you guys.

[S13 curtis]

Pics of the finishing touches and by the way im back in orlando to get this done! Pics i snapped:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image043.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image045.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image046.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image088.jpg

Fittings under intake manifold:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image049.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image050.jpg

Compare Old vs. New

Old:
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image019.jpg

New:
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image051.jpg

On with the pics:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image054.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image057.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image065.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image066.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image068.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image075.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image097.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image098.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image099.jpg



My Evo & S13

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image070.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image077.jpg


Royal Purple added:

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image094.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image096.jpg


So everything is pretty much looked over and done now.
jus need another tire before the dyno.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image100.jpg

[idahotuner]

looking good man. ready for some detailed dyno numbers

[coolxmas]

I'm planning doing the same kind of setup but I will start from a T2 gt3071r that has 56.5mm exhaust wheel and 4" comp inlet also...I will wait for your numbers to see if it worth the extra work of going this turbine housing vs regular one:hyper:

[coolxmas]

By regular one I mean the standard 0.64-WG

My S14 stock T28 is just sold now so there is no way back and winter is coming here...my car is parked till next spring

[S13 curtis]

looking good man. ready for some detailed dyno numbers


Should have dyno numbers up tomorrow evening. The was car is at the shop today to get tuned but ran into wiring problems so tomorrow should be a graph for you guys.

[S13 curtis]

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image127.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/franchis3bo1/Mobile%20Uploads/Image128.jpg

Well long story short, It had to be re-wired 2 day proces then finally getting it started Put it on the dyno not even 1 complete pull and a Cam Gear comes off and there goes my motor. FML im fuckin pissed and i paid for all the wireing and partial tuning $600 bucks and motor went to shit... I jus have bad luck. Journey is over, im going to part this car out someone else can finish this off.

[Weedm]

this sucks. really bad. ._.; sorry to hear man. If I were in your shoes id be eating a donkey right now.

make a thread for your items and I may buy a few things. want those kouki tails definitely.

[efrain240sx]

dang that really sucks man

[let5l1de]

Sorry to hear about the tuning day.

PM me about engine building? Very reasonable prices, short turn around and reliable.

~mario
GR Performance

[BiG MiKE86]

Wow that blows... LMK if u wanna part the block only and possibly the turbo kit

[Slidin' Sam]

did the cam gear actually fall off, or did it fall out of adjustment and mess up the timing, thus destroying the motor?

[RurouniMidnight]

Damn this sucks i was hoping to see what kinda numbers it would put down, really intrested in using the external exhaust housing later on when i upgrade my turbo. Sorry to hear motors breaking is never a cool thing.

[Om1kron]

haha damn what a slap in the fucking face.

[S13 curtis]

did the cam gear actually fall off, or did it fall out of adjustment and mess up the timing, thus destroying the motor?

Cam Bolt came all the way loose and Timing all fucked up and Valve connecting with piston isnt good.:down:

[nieko]

Decided not to torque it or what?

sounds wack that the bolt just backed the fuck out.........................



sorry to hear though bro :(

[fishboi]

Should have used red loctite on those bolts. How much did you spend on this build? I can't believe this happened.

[dj12]

damn i was really hoping to see some numbers. sorry to hear mang.

[S13 curtis]

Decided not to torque it or what?

sounds wack that the bolt just backed the fuck out.........................



sorry to hear though bro :(

I guess my "Friend" was really careless when he put it togeather, keep in mind I was in Korea and he put it togeather for me, swore up and down it was done right, he messed up the wiring which caused it to be at the shop for 2 days with map sensor short with 12v instead of 5v and all fucked up wiring, costed $300 in wiring and a 2 day delay in dyno time. Then he didnt double check the cam gears when he put it togeather and torqued it down if it even was. The motor blew due to carelessness and not having parts properly installed. Never again will I trust someone other then myself or a professional shop to work on any of my cars.

Like the tuner straight up told me, "you can pop the hood of my car and tell just by looking that there was alot of money put into it, but that means nothing if parts wern't installed correctly,I don't want to have anything to do with this car because it wasnt put togeather right, A Real friend woundnt half ass it, You can tell he didnt give a fuck because it wasnt his car."

I 100% agree with him on that.




The pics dont do it justice you have to see it in person.

Should have used red loctite on those bolts. How much did you spend on this build? I can't believe this happened.
I jus belive they were never torqued down to spec.

Alot of money, i tried to make the most elite 2871 setup while still staying bottom mounted. The build def has over $3k in parts.

[Geno750]

You didn't hear it rattling? I had one start to back out on me and it was louder than hell.

[S13 curtis]

You didn't hear it rattling? I had one start to back out on me and it was louder than hell.


Car had the cutout open and it was way too loud to hear anything until something broke,and car was breaking up.

[codyace]

What a fuckin bummer brother! Man that was the last thing I could imagine ever happening to a car that was freshly done...hell I felt sick to my stomach when I recently mis stabbed the CAS off a tooth and the car didn't run for shit...I could only imagine if I was 'your friend' that bombed the engine....damn




Should have used red loctite on those bolts. How much did you spend on this build? I can't believe this happened.

I wouldn't EVER use loctite on the main bolts that hold the cam gears to the cams...hell they are darn near 100ft lbs of torque as it is...

unless you're talking about on those stupid slider things, which I wouldn't ever ever ever use....they always come loose and fuck up IMO.

[jspaeth]

What a fuckin bummer brother! Man that was the last thing I could imagine ever happening to a car that was freshly done...hell I felt sick to my stomach when I recently mis stabbed the CAS off a tooth and the car didn't run for shit...I could only imagine if I was 'your friend' that bombed the engine....damn






I wouldn't EVER use loctite on the main bolts that hold the cam gears to the cams...hell they are darn near 100ft lbs of torque as it is...

unless you're talking about on those stupid slider things, which I wouldn't ever ever ever use....they always come loose and fuck up IMO.

Cody what slider things are you talking about...now I am getting paranoid!!!!

[fishboi]

Like the tuner straight up told me, "you can pop the hood of my car and tell just by looking that there was alot of money put into it, but that means nothing if parts wern't installed correctly,I don't want to have anything to do with this car because it wasnt put togeather right, A Real friend woundnt half ass it, You can tell he didnt give a fuck because it wasnt his car."

I 100% agree with him on that. How long have you known this friend? Personally, I would have a hard time trusting "TRUSTED" shops when it comes to engines.

codyace;3644511]
I wouldn't EVER use loctite on the main bolts that hold the cam gears to the cams...hell they are darn near 100ft lbs of torque as it is... Yea you are right. If torqued to the right ft lbs with a torque wrench that isn't cheap, nothing should be backing out.


Man just hearing this...makes me feel like strangling someone and im not even YOU. This is one reason why I don't build my sr. Just bought a avc-r turned up the boost to 1 bar(s14t28). Installed a SAFC, tune and done. Making 235whp. Plenty to get side ways. I rather have a motor that lasts long and is easy to repair then expansive stuff that can blow and all your money going to waste.

[cotbu]

I'm sure you would have made that 430 goal, S13 curtis! I was also hoping you wouldn't break on the dyno!
I also think we might have put too much pressure on you, and made you overlook your friends work.
Cody what slider things are you talking about...now I am getting paranoid!!!!

The adjustable cam gear shits, they suck ass!

[jspaeth]

Yo Curtis sorry about your car....

[Geno750]

Man just hearing this...makes me feel like strangling someone and im not even YOU. This is one reason why I don't build my sr. Just bought a avc-r turned up the boost to 1 bar(s14t28). Installed a SAFC, tune and done. Making 235whp. Plenty to get side ways. I rather have a motor that lasts long and is easy to repair then expansive stuff that can blow and all your money going to waste.

I don't agree with this sort of thinking. Working on your own car or taking it to a reputable shop should not be something to really worry about. Building a car is nothing more than having super lego's. Just take it step by step and follow the directions and you really can't go wrong.

[sulik]

Any news on here? :)

[Weedm]

good question. he might still be in korea.

thanks for the tail lights curtis.

[steve shadows]

What a fuckin bummer brother! Man that was the last thing I could imagine ever happening to a car that was freshly done...hell I felt sick to my stomach when I recently mis stabbed the CAS off a tooth and the car didn't run for shit...I could only imagine if I was 'your friend' that bombed the engine....damn




So Cody did I win this as always by default?

lol

sorry sorry

It really does suck...but so do these cars sometimes...and also...more importantly...not rushing...really really really paying attention to detail and not skimping on anything the first time really adds up...not saying hi/op did but just sayin...

In other news...we just hit 350 WHP at 1 bar on an .86 GT2871R so I would have to rescind my previous hypothesis and suggest that 400 WHP is easily capable with a good build on the motor (cough actually this was stock bottom end AGAIN) and good tuning...400 whp at 19 PSI on 91 octane will be the next goal.

ciao

[codyace]

In other news...we just hit 350 WHP at 1 bar on an .86 GT2871R so I would have to rescind my previous hypothesis and suggest that 400 WHP is easily capable with a good build on the motor (cough actually this was stock bottom end AGAIN) and good tuning...400 whp at 19 PSI on 91 octane will be the next goal.

I think the .86 'crown' is still owned by 4x4xl with his Nistune setup.

As before, take these guys to the drags and lets get some trap speed. THen I'll determine if I should crank the boost on my .64 housing car ;) Bragging over dynocharts is silly to say the least, you and I both know that haha. PS: 4 years and still going here. I love my JWT car ;)



Tootles ;)

[idahotuner]

hey cody just wait tell i get my gt3076 sr22 running hehe. then we can do some trap speeds