Overfender install....

[doyle4281]

Without too much commotion, could someone help me find a write up on how to mold in a rear overfender, preferably on an S14. I have an idea of how it is going to be done, but I would like to see some techniques. Thank you

[s13 @ fullboost]

no




.

[doyle4281]

thank you.......

[udon!]

hahahahahahahahaha

[AznDrftr.]

dude.

did you try the search function at all?

Very simple to use.

It says Search

Rear Overfenders DIY (http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/152755-s13-hatch-rear-overfenders-diy-approved.html)

[doyle4281]

I knew nothing good would come of this thread!

The question asked was....How to mold in a rear overfender? Not, How to rivet on a rear overfender.

I do appreciate you trying to make me look like a "Foolish Noob" though

Thanks again

[ILoveMyRHS13]

I knew nothing good would come of this thread!

The question asked was....How to mold in a rear overfender? Not, How to rivet on a rear overfender.

I do appreciate you trying to make me look like a "Foolish Noob" though

Thanks again
How else do you mold things? Boooooooooondoooooo. Or you could mix it up and fiberglass it. But, why would you mold them? Looks terrible and you can never go back.

[s13dan]

its kinda one of those things you know how to do or dont. You cant teach auto body in a post or two. Just rivet it on and your good to go.

[doyle4281]

Some say to rivet then fiberglass, others say don't as they will crack the fiberglass? Some say use adhesive and rivets, and remove the rivets before fiberglassing? I need to know what types of fiberglass can be used to prevent cracking, as there are many options?

These are some of the questions I was hoping to have answered. Anybody with constructive comments?

[AznDrftr.]

I knew what you said, to mold but thats like asking a thief how to steal something. so i gave you first step, rivet.

seriously, wasnt tryin to make you look foolish, just that you have a search function or your best friend google. very simple.

[s14_driver]

How else do you mold things? Boooooooooondoooooo. Or you could mix it up and fiberglass it. But, why would you mold them? Looks terrible and you can never go back.
if he can mold it right without f***ing it up it will look good

[drftmark]

I don't see how riveting it on, and then going over it with bondo will make it crack more than by just using bondo...

IMO, I would just rivet it on first, then use the smallest amount of bondo possible to smooth it out.


P.S. when I say bondo, I mean use some Evercoat putty/epoxy, not the actual brand Bondo, cause Bondo blows hard

comma splicing ftw

[widebodyseven]

Line up the fenders and screw them on completely(self tapping screws work good).

Take it off use some kitty hair or duraglass on the edge of the part to bond it to the car and screw it back on.

When it dries take the screws off and fill them up with bondo and smooth it off.

Use some bondo to make it flush with the rest of the body.

Ready for paint

[airhead]

yeah seems like everyone always mad about something in this forum.

ill send you a link on how i mold mine in they look really good.


here you go:
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/284707-vis-25mm-rear-over-fender-install-gone-wrong.html

[widebodyseven]

Pics of my old car that i molded a widebody to...
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=226630595&albumId=1133658

[widebodyseven]

............

[ericcastro]

just google it man.
i am sure you will get much more out of the hundreds of car forums then just this one.

Questions that are about General car things are best left to google imo. You will end up on a forum with an expert in show car building talking about it, instead of a bunch of cheap track guys like us going "mold? why?"

[airhead]

looks good did you use high build primer? or flexible primer for the fiberglass parts?

[airhead]

i tried googling my self but nothing showed up even joined autobody forums nothing so i just went ahead and did it my self and came out good. lil help with auto refinishing class :)

[doyle4281]

Thank you Airhead, that is what I was looking for. So you lined up the fender with clecos, applied adhesive to the fender, installed rivets to sandwich the fender to the body, and then removed the rivets after the adhesive dried. To mold them you applied a fiberglass filler around the perimeter and sanded. I see that you used two different kinds of fiberglass, what was this for?

I am glad to see this thread is going in a productive direction. People, including myself rely on this type of information to work on their cars.

[sincity_sil80]

awww.. i just love happy endings,the ones in stories and in massage parlors

[kalypso123]

OP, i hope you've bought wheels aleeady.

this thread is like a daydream.

[widebodyseven]

looks good did you use high build primer? or flexible primer for the fiberglass parts?
If your talking to me, i don't know what primer was use bc i wasn't there when the car was painted.

[widebodyseven]

Looks terrible and you can never go back.
Just curious but why do people say you can't go back when you mold parts on? and how does having 20 rivets on your car look better then 0 rivets?

[dOMEmE]

Just curious but why do people say you can't go back when you mold parts on? and how does having 20 rivets on your car look better then 0 rivets?

i agree with you on this one bud....

[thestreetzking]

I think it goes along the lines of, I can drill my rivets out if I crash and crack my over fender, you on the other hand with it molded can not. At least I dont know how you can remove molded stuff? it cant be pretty

[lflkajfj12123]

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/115916-suspension-faq.html

first page, scroll down you fuck

see chmercer and sizoo's posts

[ericcastro]

Just curious but why do people say you can't go back when you mold parts on? and how does having 20 rivets on your car look better then 0 rivets?

To me its pure functionality.
i have taken my fenders off the rear over a dozen times for different repairs and such.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/castro_castro/DSC02112.jpg

[widebodyseven]

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/115916-suspension-faq.html

first page, scroll down you fuck

see chmercer and sizoo's posts
This is exactly how you do it the right way....But i guess having it rivet on is easier on install and removal

[punkrico]

i used nutserts. That way when i tear them up i can pop them off real quick and slap some new ones on.

[airhead]

ok break down

each fender took me about mmm i say 40 hours max took my time.
or maybe less
thats with cutting,welding,prepping,installing everything...

i didint use panel adhei. i changed my mind and just primed the metal and undercoat it and just rivet. reason why i did this just incase i have to repair the panel i could just sand the edges and drill out the rivets and repair.
once that glue is on there is no more going back.

*tape & outline with a marker where you want to cut a good extended arch that goes up and 1inch above the body lines. i used a cut off tool

*when you cut both fenders inner and outer quater panels will show. you have to clamp these together and weld them shut. dont forget to add weld thru primer first then weld together. next is getting some automotive cualking you can find this at a paint store they are like 5bucks for a tube now just zig zag it on and around the weld areas kinda try to hide the welds now get a brush and evenly spread the cualking around the weld area make it look flat and cover the welds and small holes that you might left behind this is important so you dont get small debris or water in your interior.

*i bought a can of rubber undercoating covered all supension pieces and degreased under wheel well applied some wax and grease removal and sprayed undercoating under wheel well and around the weld area.
you can try like POR-15 you have to buy it at a paint shop supply store.

*line up the fenders where you want them get a person to help you line up where you want to duck tape the panel just for temp. now you need 1/8clecos and the cleco pliers drill small holes on each corner and add the clecos to hold the panel. now once everything is in place you might have to mess around with the clecos and panel to get it straight since your adding pressure on corners the panel might want to move. thats why this is important to get it right. keep on taking the clecos off and adjust once you got it right just add 1/8 rivets like 8 inches apart from each other try not many tho cuz the more you put more work covering them. just enough to hold the panel good.(yes i know i might had add alot thats because the quater i had was a bit warped)

*once the quater and metal panel are together you have to sand the metal quater only the edges so you can mold to the fiberglass quater. now add fiberglass body filler i use evercoat short strand add add add till its enough to sand smooth to the OEM body. with a dremel sand the rivets flush to the fiberglass panel apply fiberglass filler over. sand all edges smooth and rivets.

*once your all done use flexible putty on all filler areas and sand again.

*spray flexible primer you have to treat it like plastic.

*quide coat

*wet sand

*primer again

[airhead]

oh yeah and custom work takes longer then refinishing.

i wont never be doing this to my cars unless someone is paying me to do it.

i rather replace a metal quater panel. it will prob take me about 20 hours each quater

if you really want to go for wide body to use wide wheels then go for it

if you just want to add to cover some dents. just repair the dents much easier.

now if its major quaterpanel damaged then maybe just i will try fixing it first.

its it bend/dented fix it
its it kinked replace

molding a quaterpanel perfect is alot of work.

[kalypso123]

OP you should be burping on his ^ shoulder.

...and then taking a long nap.

[ericcastro]

i tagged this thread, hopefully this will come up for peeps in the future.
good info "airhead".

[cfrost]

To me its pure functionality.
i have taken my fenders off the rear over a dozen times for different repairs and such.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/castro_castro/DSC02112.jpg

lol this reminds me of my s13... taking off over fenders was like going through an old photo album. One side still had stickers on it too :duh:

[ericcastro]

lol this reminds me of my s13... taking off over fenders was like going through an old photo album. One side still had stickers on it too :duh:

lol, totally.
Multiple paint job, repairs, stickers, lol.
My over fenders aren't for looks, It ACTUALLY looks worse underneath the vinyl fenders :)

[HyperTek]

got any after/repaired pics with teh fenders and rear bumper and lights covering it up? =)

[SRiousS13]

you must lay resin down first to keep it tough and then put bondo on top to smooth it out

[ericcastro]

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/castro_castro/DSC02318.jpg

guess thats the best igot online.
I usually cut new fiber glass strips and put them on the backside of the cracks.

To the OP,
I put a couple long strips of fiberglass along the back side of my overfenders, just over the wheel curve.
I did it to help strenghten it a bit.
If your fenders are cheapy knockoffs like mine, its a good idea.
especially if you wanna mold it and may have to flex the fender for fitment.

[s14_driver]

Just curious but why do people say you can't go back when you mold parts on? and how does having 20 rivets on your car look better then 0 rivets?
cause there dum

[airhead]

if anyone is planning on molding cut your fenders exactly like she has it on her car.

it would be much easier molding to the body trust me. you will get better results and much better featheredge you wont even tell its a over fender

atleast this is how i will do another set

http://i50.tinypic.com/29er52s.jpg

[reccakun08]

i dont understand what you mean airhead. her fenders are on and you cant see the cuts.

[ixfxi]

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/castro_castro/DSC02318.jpg


................

[speedfiend]

i dont understand what you mean airhead. her fenders are on and you cant see the cuts.

I think he is refering to how the actual overfender itself has been cut more square and doesn't wrap around the back of the trunk area. Instead you have the overfender mounted on a completely flat surface basically and it will make it a lot easier to blend it in.

I personally am against molding them in although it does look good. I would be worried about the chassis flexing and causing your bondo and such to crack. Also what you really need to consider before molding in these overs is what kind of climate you live in. If it gets extremely cold I would highly recommend against molding. Reason being is with extreme cold the metal fender tends to shrink but the overfender won't. I have witnessed this first hand with my car in the storage unit. I went by one day when it was about 30 degrees outside. When I looked at the overfenders they were actually bowed out about 1/2-3/4 of an inch between the rivets themselves. Now what tole do you think this will have if your fenders are molded on. The metal is gonna shrink and the fiberglass is just gonna stay in place and your gonna see exactly where you seemed it to the body after it cracks. Just my .02.
Cameron