Ultimate clutch pedal thread

[g6civcx]

Please note that this is just my experience. It is not the only way to get things done. Please feel free to share your own experience and recommendations.
===========================
I've been inundated with so many clutch pedal questions asking about the same thing.

First, you need to remove the clutch damper from the hydraulic system: Clutch Line Modification - Removing Damper Loop - zeroyon.com (http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/)

The damper serves no purpose other than making the clutch pedal feel numb and impossible to bleed by hand. Everyone should bypass the damper.

Instead of trying to bend the stock line, I recommend a braided clutch line straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. There are many brands and they all are essentially the same thing. Just pick one.

Before bleeding, you should adjust the clutch pedal to get maximum travel. This will help you pressurize the line.

Open up the CL section in the FSM and look at the pedal diagram.

On US cars, at the bottom of the clutch pedal travel is a small switch. This is your clutch interlock switch.

You should also bypass the clutch interlock switch: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/106125-how-diagnose-no-start-bad-clutch-bypass-system-56k-warn.html

At the top of the clutch pedal is either a stopper bolt (base model with no cruise control) or an ASCD cancel switch (cruise control). This limits the height of the pedal travel off of the floor. Remove this bolt/switch for now.

NOTE: The ASCD cancel switch activates when you move the clutch pedal away from its top position. This kicks off the cruise so the engine doesn't overrev.


If you look in the CL section, there is a page showing you how to adjust the clutch pedal. Look at the pushrod. You want the pushrod to be as far out away from the driver as possible.

Start by unlocking the locknut on the pushrod. Then you can twist the pushrod with your hand or a tool. You want to unscrew the pushrod so there is as little sticking out of the threaded hole towards the driver as possible.

Don't unscrew the pushrod too much or the rod will come out of the hole completely.

As you back out the pushrod, you will notice that the pedal height will rise above the floor. Pull the pedal up by hand and you'll see.

I usually back the pushrod out until the pedal hits the backstop and cannot go any more. There's no point in backing the pushrod beyond this point because the pedal won't come up any more (the pedal is already stuck on the backstop).

You can leave the locknut loose for now until final adjustment.

Now you can start bleeding the clutch like normal. You'll notice that the clutch pedal has a lot more travel than it usually does, but that's ok.

TIP: When bleeding the braided line, you can pump the pedal several times to pressurize the line and hold the pedal down. Have someone quickly unbolt the line at the master cylinder and quickly close the fitting. You will feel some air escape and fluid will go into the line.

You then bleed at the slave bleeder bolt. It should only take a few pumps to fully pressurize the line compared to the stock setup with the damper.

When finished bleeding, test drive and chek the engagement point "friction zone" off of the floor.

If you still can't shift with the pushrod backed out all the way off and maximum pedal height, something is wrong. Either you have some internal problems, or your clutch master cylinder has the wrong ratio for your setup.

Guys with LS-series/V8 swaps must swap out the stock clutch master for something with a bigger bore like 3/4". There is no way to push enough fluid with the stock pedal travel and 5/8" bore. You either need more pedal travel or more bore.

Once you're sure the clutch can be disengaged, you can shift smoothly without grinding, no creeping in gear, and you can slip the clutch at a stop sign, then you can adjust your engagement point off the floor.

You progressively screw the pushrod into the pedal about 1 turn at a time. You'll see that the pedal height will come down.

Take your stopper bolt or ASCD cancel switch and install it where you removed it. You want to set the bolt/switch so that the clutch pedal barely touches it at the top of the pedal travel.

Take out and test your engagement point. If you're not satisfied, srew the pushrod in another turn, set the bolt/switch, and test drive. Repeat until you're satisifed.

After a while your engagement point will change due to clutch wear so you will have to readjust periodically.


The most imporant thing are:

1) Make sure that the clutch master cylinder pushrod can retract completely. This will take pressure away from the hydraulic system. If you set the stopper bolt/ASCD switch too high, the pedal won't retract completely and it will be like riding the clutch pedal all the time. Not good for your clutch system.

2) Make sure the clutch can disengage completely when the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor. Test all gears. You should be able to shift smoothly with the clutch pedal all the way down.

3) All you guys with cruise, make sure that the pedal is contacting the cancel switch at the top of the pedal travel. Otherwise your cruise won't work. Adjust your ASCD switch until the switch is pushed in by the pedal at the top of its travel. As you push the pedal down, the pedal will come off the switch and cancel cruise.

If the pedal doesn't push the switch down, the car will think that you're always riding the clutch pedal and automatically cancels cruise.

Test for creeping. Select a gear and hold the pedal down. The car should not creep. Check all gears.

If you set the pushrod too high, you won't have enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch disc. Every time you shift you will hear a crunch. It's like not pushing the pedal down completely when shifting.


Let me know if you have questions or criticism.

[fliprayzin240sx]

What would cause a your clutch to change engagement points? My clutch have a tendency to engage/disengage real low in the morning. When the car gets hot, it starts engaging/disengaging almost to the top and the clutch feels alot more stiffer. I've bled the line enough times, running a steel braided line straight from the mastercylinder to the slave. Brand new master and non leaking nismo slave. I dont think its a leak, it doesnt build up pressure or changes engagement point when I just sit there and pump it.

Any idea? Its not really affecting the car as far as causing any issue but its just annoying me.

[Jonnie Fraz]

You forgot to add before you install the clutch pedal (if you are doing a five speed swap) take the bracket and weld it up where all the spot welds are, so you won't break that wimpy bracket apart when you clutch kick that bad boy.

[g6civcx]

What would cause a your clutch to change engagement points? My clutch have a tendency to engage/disengage real low in the morning. When the car gets hot, it starts engaging/disengaging almost to the top and the clutch feels alot more stiffer. I've bled the line enough times, running a steel braided line straight from the mastercylinder to the slave. Brand new master and non leaking nismo slave. I dont think its a leak, it doesnt build up pressure or changes engagement point when I just sit there and pump it.

Any idea? Its not really affecting the car as far as causing any issue but its just annoying me.

You can try changing to a different brand of brake fluid. You can also make a heat shield for the brake and clutch master cylinder.

Other than that, I have nothing. Maybe something internal.

[codyace]

You can try changing to a different brand of brake fluid. You can also make a heat shield for the brake and clutch master cylinder.

Other than that, I have nothing. Maybe something internal.

Brake Fluid for sure makes a big difference in abused cars.


Great write up, however I will say that one shold be careful about over extending the rod, as it can push the pressure fingers 'to far' and into the disc itself, makign an awful screeching noise.

[g6civcx]

be careful about over extending the rod, as it can push the pressure fingers 'to far' and into the disc itself, makign an awful screeching noise.

I never had this problem on my SR, although slave cylinder travel may depend on the way the clutch is set up.

I usually back the pushrod out until the pedal hits the backstop with about 2-3 turns showing on the pushrod. It should help with bleeding since you have more pedal travel.

After that screw the pushrod in so suit the engagement point and put the stopper bolt/ASCD cancel switch to hold the pedal when it retracts.

[godrifttoday]

Is there any replacement for the the clutch mc with a aftermarket on with a bigger piston diameter? And to increase pressure is it only predicated on mc and not so much on slave?

[stinky_180]

here are some pictures

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/stinky180/240sx%20technical/clutchPedalAdjustment-1.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/stinky180/240sx%20technical/clutchPedalAdjustment.jpg

figured i'de post these since i have them online.

[g6civcx]

Is there any replacement for the the clutch mc with a aftermarket on with a bigger piston diameter? And to increase pressure is it only predicated on mc and not so much on slave?

There is an adaptor bracket you can buy. It lets you bolt in a Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Stock is 5/8". Wilwood makes a 3/4" that's perfect for most people who just need a little more.

Line pressure, pedal effort, or slave movement?

[godrifttoday]

For engagment on clutch? Would just using say a 3/4 wilwood mc and using stock slave be better than stock mc and nismo slave?

[gripster]

I used a brake line union to bypass the clutch damper. Less than $3 at autozone, and it improved the clutch pedal feel 100%.

I still need to adjust the clutch pedal height, it doesn't go back up as far as i like.


http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/data//4250/smlBrakeUnion.JPG

[soreballz]

My clutch pedal is super duper squeaky. Silicone lube spray on the spring and pivot points does nothing to help.

Thoughts?

[g6civcx]

My clutch pedal is super duper squeaky. Silicone lube spray on the spring and pivot points does nothing to help.

Thoughts?

Maybe it's not the pedal. Have you listen to the gearbox area for the noise?

[codyace]

There is an adaptor bracket you can buy. It lets you bolt in a Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Stock is 5/8". Wilwood makes a 3/4" that's perfect for most people who just need a little more.

Line pressure, pedal effort, or slave movement?

Any links to said adapter bracket? Those Master Cylinders are only like 50 bucks, less than a new OE Nissan one.

[codyace]

http://www.helladaftproducts.com/240sx-LSx-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Kit-slsxcmc.htm

Looks good, but I'm unsure that line will reach to the passenger side where our slave is located (as the LSx is on driver side)

[soreballz]

Maybe it's not the pedal. Have you listen to the gearbox area for the noise?No, its definitely coming from the pedal area. Is it possible that the squeaking is caused by the clutch master cylinder's pushrod?

[codyace]

No, its definitely coming from the pedal area. Is it possible that the squeaking is caused by the clutch master cylinder's pushrod?

There is a bushing that goes bad up in there. I forget off the top of my head the name of it, but a quick search should yield a good result. Try things like clutch pedal bushing, etc etc.

[PoorMans180SX]

Here's my predicament; My clutch pedal feels fine (how it's always felt since buying the car) but my car is extremely hard to get into gear. I have to pump the clutch multiple times to get it in. It just started doing this, I've had the car for about 3 months. It has a "Stage 5" Clutch in it, which was installed by the previous owner.

I've bled the mess out of the slave.

The slave and master are not leaking.

I have no damper box.

Could there be an internal leak in either the slave or master, not letting it build pressure?

What brands do you recommend if I have to get a new one?

[g6civcx]

Any links to said adapter bracket? Those Master Cylinders are only like 50 bucks, less than a new OE Nissan one.

silviav8forums.com :: View topic - Wilwood clutch master cylinder adapter brackets (http://www.silviav8forums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1259)

[codyace]

silviav8forums.com :: View topic - Wilwood clutch master cylinder adapter brackets (http://www.silviav8forums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1259)

That's MUCH more my style


Funny thing is I saw his thread on F/A but there was no link to the adapter hehe.

Thank you very much, both will be purchased tonight :D

[g6civcx]

That's MUCH more my style


Funny thing is I saw his thread on F/A but there was no link to the adapter hehe.

Thank you very much, both will be purchased tonight :D

You need to ask me about these things. I don't know what you need.

[codyace]

You need to ask me about these things. I don't know what you need.

hahahahahaha ;)

Ok, since I also don't know

whats the thread pitch on the clutch slave cylinder ?

[godrifttoday]

I'm going to assume m6x 1.00 or m10x 1.00, Dammit I forgot exactly

[codyace]

Well this looks like a neet little 'upgrade' that will cost roughly the same as OE Nissan...not a bad trade off!

Summit:
Wilwood MC (WIL-260-2636) 49.94
Master Cylinder to -3 Fitting (WIL-220-3406) 3.95
Slave Cylinder to -3 Fitting (-3 to M10x1.00 fitting) 11.39
40" Hose with a 90* Fitting (estimate length, FRA-322040) 23.95
89.73
S+H 10
Total: 99.73

and then:
Rigid Racing MC Adapter Bracket ([email protected]): 23 shipped

So 122.73 Total for the upgrade (110 if you find a 10% summitt coupon)

Or
95 bucks for S13 from mynismo.com (30610-70F50) (Figure 105-110 shipped total)
or
84.68 for S14 from my nismo.com (30610-70F90) (Figure 95 to 100 shipped total)



So in the end you're going to spend 23 (13 if using Summitt Coupon) dollars extra for an upgraded system, with all new goodies, and no issues.

Sounds like a win for those who are looking to replace Clutch Master Cylinders!

[codyace]

i'm a nerd and have them on order...yes!

[g6civcx]

No, I don't know what the thread is on the Nissan slave.

I don't have anything Nissan on my drivetrain other than the diff.

[codyace]

No, I don't know what the thread is on the Nissan slave.

I don't have anything Nissan on my drivetrain other than the diff.

I did forget that for a second ;)

Got the Adapter you posted today...what a nice little piece! Talk about fast shipment!

[Soup Nazi]

I just replaced my Advance Auto clutch slave cylinder, with a Nismo Unit for the SR.

Ever since I replaced it, the clutch pedal seems to be a lot softer with the Nismo one than with the Advance auto unit, where it felt more stiff. And also the clutch doesn't engage till the pedal is damn near all the way to the floor now. Before the Pedal was engaging about in the middle or near the top, not anymore.

I bled the system correctly. Not sure what it could be, either it's the clutch itself or the pedal needs adjustment.

Any insight?

Thanks

[rebornS14]

here are some pictures

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/stinky180/240sx%20technical/clutchPedalAdjustment-1.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff319/stinky180/240sx%20technical/clutchPedalAdjustment.jpg

figured i'de post these since i have them online.

thank you for that.

[mothon]

My clutch pedal is super duper squeaky. Silicone lube spray on the spring and pivot points does nothing to help.

Thoughts?

Mine does the exact same thing....let me know if you find a fix to this.

[EchaKqulo]

Mine does the exact same thing....let me know if you find a fix to this.
I concur!! Looking forward to kill the annoying squeaking monster that live on my clutch pedal.

[codyace]

Mine does the exact same thing....let me know if you find a fix to this.

I concur!! Looking forward to kill the annoying squeaking monster that live on my clutch pedal.

46534-35F10 it's a clutch pedal bushing

the search feature is a doozy guys ;)

[GforceDriftAdik]

ok so i have done a search on it but my question is the clutch is super stiff i mean like itll give ya a popeye calf muscle stiff. replaced the slave and master cylinder (autozone variety) didnt really help im not sure what clutch it is it was in the car when we got it but my question is will the wilwood master cylinfder help make it not to hard to push in? im tired of bending rods on masters and had to replace the whole pedal assembly once please help guys

[DJPimpFlex]

ok so i have done a search on it but my question is the clutch is super stiff i mean like itll give ya a popeye calf muscle stiff. replaced the slave and master cylinder (autozone variety) didnt really help im not sure what clutch it is it was in the car when we got it but my question is will the wilwood master cylinfder help make it not to hard to push in? im tired of bending rods on masters and had to replace the whole pedal assembly once please help guys

Wow you bent the MC rod? SR? You either have something very wrong with your system or a crazy clutch like an ACT with an extreme pressure plate. That's what I have and its definitely hard to push, but I can't see it bending the rod. Time will tell, as I just had this clutch put in.

If I have any issues with my clutch pedal system I will definitely go with the wilwood set up and weld the shit out of my clutch pedal bracketry while its apart.

[Souljahzs13]

I love this thread, I was going to buy new oem MC in a couple days. Luckily this came up before I did. I'm now in the process on buying the Wilwood setup for my manual 5spd. conversion.

[djsilver]

What would cause a your clutch to change engagement points? My clutch have a tendency to engage/disengage real low in the morning. When the car gets hot, it starts engaging/disengaging almost to the top and the clutch feels alot more stiffer. I've bled the line enough times, running a steel braided line straight from the mastercylinder to the slave. Brand new master and non leaking nismo slave. I dont think its a leak, it doesnt build up pressure or changes engagement point when I just sit there and pump it.

Any idea? Its not really affecting the car as far as causing any issue but its just annoying me.

Your pedal isn't releasing the master cylinder completely so you're building up pressure in the clutch line. When the pedal comes up and the return spring in the master cylinder returns the piston to rest, it pushes in a little release valve at the end of the piston that equalizes the pressure between the reservoir and the clutch line. I had that problem because the little flip-flop spring on the pedal was weak and wouldn't pick the pedal up completely. I attached an additional little return spring to the pedal and hooked it to something under the dash to pull the pedal up completely. That fixed the problem.

[IIIXziuR]

Hello Ultimate Clutch Pedal Thread, can you help?;

PROBLEM: My clutch pedal never returns all the way back up to the 'resting' spot/stopper
i.e. when I step on it to shift gears, it does that fine but it doesn't come all the way back up to the stopper / doesn't sit flush with the brake pedal, it hangs ~.25-.45" lower

I am not too sure, does it have to do with air in the system or something with the spring on the assembly? I always have to 'lift' it back to place with my foot.

T/Y gentlemen.

[tbyrd77]

Hello Ultimate Clutch Pedal Thread, can you help?;

PROBLEM: My clutch pedal never returns all the way back up to the 'resting' spot/stopper
i.e. when I step on it to shift gears, it does that fine but it doesn't come all the way back up to the stopper / doesn't sit flush with the brake pedal, it hangs ~.25-.45" lower

I am not too sure, does it have to do with air in the system or something with the spring on the assembly? I always have to 'lift' it back to place with my foot.

T/Y gentlemen.

I'm having the exact same problem right now as well. I have autozone mc ad slave. On the slave it has a 3/4 marking. Eliminated the damper box and have pressure to shift but pedal is not returning to the stopper. If you find a fix to this let me know asap. Gota have this car ready for 2moro. Thanks

[thinhthan]

is there suppose to be a bolt that bolts the top of the pedal to the car? seems like there is suppose to be a bolt right there to hold the pedal down more than just the 2 bolts on the master.. i just did the 5 speed on mines and when i press down the pedal the pedal moves to the right a little

[redline racer510]

Quick question, I know the nut on the CMC adjusts pedal height, does spinning the rod adjust the clutch release position? Also is their a CMC brace like they have for the BMC, my cmc really puts strain on my firewall when i push down on the pedal.

[cjmirabal1]

awsome! im doing this soon as i just purchased the ss line

[cjmirabal1]

Well this looks like a neet little 'upgrade' that will cost roughly the same as OE Nissan...not a bad trade off!

Summit:
Wilwood MC (WIL-260-1304) 49.94
Master Cylinder to -3 Fitting (WIL-220-3406) 3.95
Slave Cylinder to -3 Fitting (-3 to M10x1.00 fitting) 11.39
40" Hose with a 90* Fitting (estimate length, FRA-322040) 23.95
89.73
S+H 10
Total: 99.73

and then:
Rigid Racing MC Adapter Bracket ([email protected]): 23 shipped

So 122.73 Total for the upgrade (110 if you find a 10% summitt coupon)

Or
95 bucks for S13 from mynismo.com (30610-70F50) (Figure 105-110 shipped total)
or
84.68 for S14 from my nismo.com (30610-70F90) (Figure 95 to 100 shipped total)



So in the end you're going to spend 23 (13 if using Summitt Coupon) dollars extra for an upgraded system, with all new goodies, and no issues.

Sounds like a win for those who are looking to replace Clutch Master Cylinders!


the ss line i mentioned above is this one... DIF 10041 Auto to Manual Stainless Steel Clutch Line Conversion (http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10041-Auto-to-Manual-Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Line-Conversion_p_15326.html)

will this work with the wilwood master or i would still need the fittings? and both of em?

[BlackZenkiS14]

Hello Ultimate Clutch Pedal Thread, can you help?;

PROBLEM: My clutch pedal never returns all the way back up to the 'resting' spot/stopper
i.e. when I step on it to shift gears, it does that fine but it doesn't come all the way back up to the stopper / doesn't sit flush with the brake pedal, it hangs ~.25-.45" lower

I am not too sure, does it have to do with air in the system or something with the spring on the assembly? I always have to 'lift' it back to place with my foot.

T/Y gentlemen.

I'm having this problem too...any help?

[codyace]

I'd certainly rebleed it at this point.

[BlackZenkiS14]

I'd certainly rebleed it at this point.

Yea, I'll run through it again, I've manually bled it and suction bled it twice within the past week. Before, and after I removed the damper box and installed stainless line to the slave.

The stroke of the actual clutch feels short too. Its an Exedy Stage 2 3-puck clutch, with brand new OEM Nissan TOB.

Is there anything in the pedal assembly itself that can fail or need to be replaced. The problem feels more mechanical related than hydraulic. Could the pressure plate itself fail?

[di-devol]

^it's the spring. I just built my stuff and swapped out a exedy stage1 for a stage2 3-puck. The pedal wouldn't come up before and that still is the deal now. I swapped the clutch pedal it self and it springs back up now.

[BlackZenkiS14]

^it's the spring. I just built my stuff and swapped out a exedy stage1 for a stage2 3-puck. The pedal wouldn't come up before and that still is the deal now. I swapped the clutch pedal it self and it springs back up now.

Ok, yea, I actually had a similar issue with the Exedy stage1 I had in there before too. But shouldnt the pressure plate be strong enough to push it back?

[di-devol]

I dunno, I thought maybe it had to do with the TOB but I'm using the Exedy one this time and same thing. After swapping the pedal it goes all the way up. I could be tripping though.

[codyace]

The pressure plate doesn't push the throw out bearing back 100% persay, so there should never be constant tension on that release fork either (as in, you should be able to wiggle the TOB back and forth a little). What will happen is that upon release, it does push it back a little, and from operation it will bounce back and push itself back a little.

Springs can make a difference too, but obviously less common.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Ok....hmmm....well, maybe my clutch is ok, and it's just a pedal issue. If that's it, then Im fine lol. I just dont want to keep banging away on this car if the clutch isn't properly setup, I really dont want to have to replace a clutch right now. Because the hydraulic system operates smoothly, and I can wiggle the TOB and pivot fork a little bit after pushing the slave in manually, and taking pressure off of it.

[dawnattack]

this whole clutch prob is a sucker!!!
it had cost me time and money..

[Pstl_pete]

As mentioned by someone above, I too have a walking clutch pedal. In the morning it engages low then once the car is driven for a while it will be way too high.

I'll go ahead and change the fluid out but I wanted to know if using an S13 clutch pedal and not an S14 unit could be the cause here? I'm trying to figure out if the swing of the pedal isnt spot on or something like that.

[codyace]

I'd look into poor fluid, or even something slightly seeping, sucking air into the system.

[jamrome918]

I have a question I just recently installed a new clutch system stage 2 lighter fly wheel pressure plates. I did everything correctly . I noticed when I started to fk with my adjustment I get this fkin annoying sound it's like a winding sound "waaghhhheeeeeeewaghhhaghh grrr" something like that. Should I screw the pushrod away from me or towards me? Any help would be appreciated thanks!

[In The Works]

OK done a bunch of searching and can't find it. I need to know what size the fitting is that goes into the Clutch Master Cylinder to connect the soft conversion line. The used one I got doesn't have the male/male fitting on it and I need to go get one. Thanks in advance

Thanks for the help everyone. It was tough wading through all the instant responses...Whew

-3an x 10mil 1.0 straight through whoever you call your looking for a AN to Metric adapter if they say they have them then you can give them the size. Those located in the Long Beach Ca area I was able to find mine at Deering Industries

[Conrad 2NR]

My clutch pedal was engaging relatively high before I had changed out my clutch setup and flywheel.

Now that I've changed them out it's still engaging high up, almost close to release. I've tried adjusting the rod from the master so that it'll engage lower down but all that has done is allow for what feels like more free-play.

Any suggestions?


I plan to re-bleed the system again using the process as outlined in the first post i.e. backing the rod as far out as possible and backing the clutch switch all the way out THEN start the bleeding process and adjust after to suit.

[Chad4061]

instead of starting a new post i figured i would ask on here. I did a 5spd swap on my s14 and my clutch pedal sits about a 1/2 inch lower to the floor than the brake pedal. I used my auto brake pedal and I remember that I adjusted the MC rod almost all the way out so i was thinking maybe put some spacers on the clutch bracket before the firewall to maybe even the pedals out...anyone else have this problem when they did a 5spd swap?

[Conrad 2NR]

instead of starting a new post i figured i would ask on here. I did a 5spd swap on my s14 and my clutch pedal sits about a 1/2 inch lower to the floor than the brake pedal. I used my auto brake pedal and I remember that I adjusted the MC rod almost all the way out so i was thinking maybe put some spacers on the clutch bracket before the firewall to maybe even the pedals out...anyone else have this problem when they did a 5spd swap?

S13 Clutch pedal

[cured13]

Corect me if I'm wrong.
If I'm converting from an Auto and I still have to drill holes in the firewall
then I don't need that Willwood adaptor - right?

[Chad4061]

i bought the pedal new from nissan so it should be for a s14. im gonna try and see if i can put a few washers or something on the bracket to see if that helps.

[Conrad 2NR]

Just to be sure.

http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=6806

[Chad4061]

yea mine has the 30mm spacer on the back...was going to put a few washers behind that so it would lift the pedal up a little but I cant because the master cylinder rod is as far out as i can thread it. guess gonna just have to deal with it for now until i can think of something else. thanks for the help

[terrence]

I just put a new clutch master and slave in my s14 (5 speed swap and what-not) and I have bench bled the master, screwed the push rod out as far as it will and I cannot get pressure built up in the system.

EDIT: Problem solved, the master I bought (new) was a piece of shit. Replaced with oem part and bled and had it working in 10 minutes.

Don't buy cheap parts kids.

[mr.nismo.]

Bringing this bitch back
What do you guys think of running the Wilwood 3/4 clutch master on an sr trans/clutch? My current clutch master lasted 4 days with the new clutch and blew its seals into the cabin (surprise surprise) for now I went out and got a replacement and a z32 TT slave so I'll be able to drive it at least. The Wilwood 5/8 and 3/4 are the same price so I'm curious if anyone has done the 3/4 on an SR trans/clutch. All I can find is LSX threads

[Froskie]

Help me with my current situation if you can please sir! I think i need to adjust the clutch but tell me what you think. Great write up btw, i'm deff gonna do it now lol

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=637827

[TheBoRiley]

just wanna say OP this is a dope thread for sure. I've been reading through and I haven't quite seen my issue come up. 1990 s13 hatch SE with standard SR20 swap, SR20 trans and SPEC stage 3 clutch.
The clutch has been acting a little weird. it does not disengage until I'm almost at the bottom of the pedal, like kicking my floor/firewall bottom haha. It wasn't as bad as it is now but about a week ago some friends and i where doing some skids and after a few clutch kicks it got worse to the point that it wouldn't even go into gear. After f**king with it for a minute or two we managed to get it to shift again and such be its definitely not fully 100% disengaging, like maybe 98% or so. Anybody had this issue? And what did you do to remedy it? Trying to find some direction before I end up pulling my trans and redoing the whole clutch system. Thanks guys.