94 S13 KADE WONT START After Head Job

[davirene]

Ok so I am really frustrated....for the last 2 days I have been trying to get my car to start after doing a Head Job.

What happened is...I sprung a pin hole leak in a small heater hose under the intake manifold....I lost all my water (didnt know)....I was on the 91fwy by the 71 interchange...I was in a really bad spot with steam shooting out so I continued up a grade to the first exit in Corona. As I exited the car turned off.

Results...Blown Head Gasket (Cometic), Warped Head, Blown Water pump.

So I had the head resufaced put a stock Head Gasket in and a new Water Pump.

Well after bolting everything up, the Distributor didnt drop in very easily it stopped about 1/2 inch from seating. The bolts started so I tightened them...it went flush...I tried starting it and nothing....so I pulled the distributor...checked my timing then dropped it in again...But this time as I was tightening the nuts it cracked...it has a really small line on the side...

I removed the front timing chain cover that holds the distributor and machined it shaving off .0025 of an inch off and rebolted everything up and now the distributor drops right in. I put some JB weld on the hairline crack for now (new one is $180) but still nothing?

I have spark, I have fuel, and of course air....

Any Suggestions????
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/davirene/1224091349.jpg

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http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/davirene/1224091350.jpg

[davirene]

Ok so I took a drive....and came to the conclusion that I must of reset the cams wrong? I marked all sprokets and chains but somehow must of set it in wrong?

Now I do have compression....so I did assume everything was lined up....but I am gonna check it anyway.....after the family get together of course...

[iambape]

does it crank or click?

[fcdrifter20]

9 times outa 10 its timing thats off

[blackoutt]

Put the motor at TDC on the crank pulley on the COMPRESSION stroke of cyl #1, align the rotor PIN next to the mark on the rotor shaft with the mark on the distributor, not the mark on the rotor shaft with the mark on the distributor. The helical gears will rotate about 10* when you insert then into the mating gear in the head and compensate for that. Rotor should be lined up with plug 1 perfectly after stabbing distributor into head. Now crank it, if that doesn't work, you might not have gotten the right stroke since there are 2 times when piston one gets to TDC in a 4 cycle, putting you at 180* off. In said case switch your plug wires at the distributor by two (1-3, 2-4, 3-1, 4-2) if it fires then all you have to do is line it all back up, take your distributor out and line up the other end of the rotor shaft pin with the mark on the distributor, re-stab, and put your plug wires back to their proper positions. Get a timing light, adjust, enjoy. It's tricky, I've been playing with it for a couple hours on my fresh rebuild.

[ManoNegra]

Ok so I took a drive....and came to the conclusion that I must of reset the cams wrong? I marked all sprokets and chains but somehow must of set it in wrong?

Now I do have compression....so I did assume everything was lined up....but I am gonna check it anyway.....after the family get together of course...

check your valves too
if you set the cams wrong and spun them you have damaged the valves

[g6civcx]

I tried starting it and nothing.



No crank or crank but no start?

[Dream240]

Put the motor at TDC on the crank pulley on the COMPRESSION stroke of cyl #1, align the rotor PIN next to the mark on the rotor shaft with the mark on the distributor, not the mark on the rotor shaft with the mark on the distributor. The helical gears will rotate about 10* when you insert then into the mating gear in the head and compensate for that. Rotor should be lined up with plug 1 perfectly after stabbing distributor into head. Now crank it, if that doesn't work, you might not have gotten the right stroke since there are 2 times when piston one gets to TDC in a 4 cycle, putting you at 180* off. In said case switch your plug wires at the distributor by two (1-3, 2-4, 3-1, 4-2) if it fires then all you have to do is line it all back up, take your distributor out and line up the other end of the rotor shaft pin with the mark on the distributor, re-stab, and put your plug wires back to their proper positions. Get a timing light, adjust, enjoy. It's tricky, I've been playing with it for a couple hours on my fresh rebuild.


It's tricky because you're doing it wrong. Have you ever even read the FSM?

Yes there are two moments in the piston travel that it is at TDC, but that is irrelevant if you just follow your crank pulley timing marks.

Let me simplify that whole book you just wrote, the RED mark is TDC cyl #1.

Done.

[blackoutt]

I have read the timing sections in the pdf of the FSM, the Haynes manual, as well as a how to adjust timing from NICO. I'm simply sharing the information and experience's that I gathered while doing mine since this guy might be in the same timing boat as me.

"the RED mark TDC cyl #1" isn't too clear or concise.

[Dream240]

I have read the timing sections in the pdf of the FSM, the Haynes manual, as well as a how to adjust timing from NICO. I'm simply sharing the information and experience's that I gathered while doing mine since this guy might be in the same timing boat as me.

"the RED mark TDC cyl #1" isn't too clear or concise.

ugh...let me be as clear and concise as humanly possible.

You DO know what the crank pulley is don't you? You ever seen the 6 lines etched into the lip of the pulley? Those are called timing marks. The red one is TDC, and each white mark is an increment of 5 degrees of timing from TDC.

There's two different sections of the timing setup.

Static timing - The timing configuration of the head in relation to the crank of the engine.
Ignition timing - The setting of the time that a spark will occur in the combustion chamber.

You need to follow the FSM to set the timing. Download the necessary FSM for your year 240 from the column on the left of the following website.

Manuals > USDM Cars - Nissan 240SX Performance Tuning (http://www.240edge.com/manuals/usdm-cars.html)

Next, proceed to the "EM" section, pages EM-1 to EM-18 will guide you through setting up the timing.

As for the Ignition timing, following the same EM pages will lead to to the end result of re-installing the engine's components correctly so that your crank is at TDC #1, the RED mark (TDC) on the crank lip will match up with the timing guide needle on the front of the block, and the distributor is set to #1. Finish putting it back together and fire it up, car will start unless you messed up the FSM process.

If you still can't follow those very basic instructions, stop....drop the wrenches, back away from the car, and punch yourself in the face for being an idiot.

[aznpoopy]

It's tricky because you're doing it wrong. Have you ever even read the FSM?

Yes there are two moments in the piston travel that it is at TDC, but that is irrelevant if you just follow your crank pulley timing marks.

Let me simplify that whole book you just wrote, the RED mark is TDC cyl #1.

Done.

it's not irrelevant. the crank spins 720 degrees for one full 360 of the motor.
the mark will therefore designate tdc for compression and exhaust strokes.

Now crank it, if that doesn't work, you might not have gotten the right stroke since there are 2 times when piston one gets to TDC in a 4 cycle, putting you at 180* off.

In said case switch your plug wires at the distributor by two (1-3, 2-4, 3-1, 4-2) if it fires then all you have to do is line it all back up, take your distributor out and line up the other end of the rotor shaft pin with the mark on the distributor, re-stab, and put your plug wires back to their proper positions. Get a timing light, adjust, enjoy. It's tricky, I've been playing with it for a couple hours on my fresh rebuild.

alright, this second part is madness. you set piston one to tdc via the mark. open up the oil fill cap. if the cam lobes are pointing away from each other, you are at tdc for compression stroke. if they are not, rotate the crank pulley another full turn until its back at tdc, and they will be. tip courtesy of

You can also pull the oil filler cap and check the cam lobes, TDC on the correct stroke will have both lobes on the #1 cylinder pointing outward, to the sides.

[Dream240]

it's not irrelevant. the crank spins 720 degrees for one full 360 of the motor.
the mark will therefore designate tdc for compression and exhaust strokes.

D'oh. You're right. I don't know what I was thinking...contradicting myself. I was working and trying to post here at the same time, too much for my little brain.

Okay, so my old school way to check the compression TDC was to put the crank pulley at TDC and stick a long screwdriver into cyl. #1 spark plug hole. If it bottoms out then you gotta turn the pulley one more full revolution to get compression TDC.

Just a suggestion.

[blackoutt]

My crank pulley doesn't have any color on the notches, so there's why the colors mean nothing to me. I still like my instructions better except for...

open up the oil fill cap. if the cam lobes are pointing away from each other, you are at tdc for compression stroke. if they are not, rotate the crank pulley another full turn until its back at tdc, and they will be. tip courtesy of

...is much easier than switching the wires around.

[davirene]

Ok thanks for all the input....Im not a pro mechanic but can do quite a bit....

This was the 6th full head job I have done on different motors (V8, V6, 4cyl)...and I did replace the head gasket (LAST YEAR) on this particular motor with no problems but also with no machine work. So this time the .0025 of an inch they removed really changed the motor. It was almost as if I rebuilt it?

So I had a friend and Nissan Guru come by....he double checked all my settings and found them to be correct. So compression and everything was good. He pulled the 2 bolts on the distributor complete out and started turning it....while I cranked it...It actually took about an hour of trying because my battery died. Then it finally started.

So bottom line its running....my EGR has always given me problems so I removed it for now. Plugged the excess vaccuum lines and drove it up to Forest Falls....Car ran great pulled awesome and seems almost like it was before it broke....

ONCE AGAIN THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT....