no spark or injector pulse after installing upgrades

[brndck]

cliff notes first:
car started/ran fine yesterday (redtop sr20det with #62 ecu), then i installed the following
-550cc sti injectors
-t28 s14 turbo
-z32 maf (wired per heavythrottle)
-tomei #62 ecu reflashed for z maf, t28, 550 cc injectors

NOW i have no spark at the coil packs and no pulse at the injectors, ecu is showing code 11 (crank angle sensor). if i switch back to my old mines #62 ecu, car still has no spark and no injector pulse and shows same #11 code.

so far i have rechecked all my wiring for the new injectors and the z maf, as well as tracing all the wiring for the cas, tps, maf, injectors, etc to make sure there were no shorts or exposed wiring or anything. i am still getting plenty of fuel pressure. i've checked all of the pins on the ecu that are cas related and i am still getting a start signal from the ignition.

i don't have any sort of oem test procedure for the cas, but it is getting power and ground and when you crank the engine, it does produce a 5v reference signal so i don't think it is actually bad.

any suggestions or does anyone in socal have another cas i can borrow for testing/possibly buy?

[steve shadows]

Who "reflashed" your ecu?

Should have gone L-Jetro and brought it down to me mang!

This sounds like the ems is screwy or something. It's not any of your parts. It's something related to you ECU
If you mis-wired your MAF, power to ground or signal to ground etc, you could have fryed your ECU.

[brndck]

the new a tomei n62 ecu, they reflashed or chipped it or whatever for 550inj, z32maf, and t28 or similar. the old one is a mines boost up ecu.

i'm hoping its not the maf wiring, i checked every resource i could find before i did my wiring to try to avoid wiring it incorrectly. i ended up going with the info on Nissan, 240sx, nissan sentra, nissan sentra se-r, G20, nissan skyline gtr, nissan silvia, S13 (http://www.jgycustoms.com/infolinks.htm)
it agrees with everything else i've found.

with either ecu, i can still pull codes and the red led operates normally so i don't think they're burnt.

[Rabboni]

The Crank Angle Sensor shouldnt produce a constant 5 volt signal. You need to get a hold of an oscilloscope and test to make sure it produces a dc digital (square wave) signal. That is the proper way to test a hall effect sensor.

[TurboStrong]

^^^^^^^^damn rabboni good shit!!!!!

[brndck]

ya it ended up being the cas wiring. whoever built this wiring harness (i had a shop called c-tune do my first sr swap) they used crimp connectors and they came loose. two of the wires were touching so i had continuity but not a good signal. i fixed them (solder + shrinkwrap ftw!!!) and now the car runs.

i had another issue as well. the tomei ecu that i bought that is supposed to be for 300zx maf and 550cc injectors is NOT. it would barely idle with the z maf plugged in, so i put the sr maf back and it runs fine but pig rich. i put the sr injectors back instead of the 550s and it runs much better now.

oh and rabboni, youre dead right! i do need a lab scope, i used to work at a gold shield smog station and we had a picoscope and it was freaking awesome.

[Rabboni]

Thats why i do all my own shit. I just assume that everyone else who touches my car is retarded, and i double check their work. 90% of the time they are retarded. Also Id call whoever sent you that ecu and bitch them out bigtime, and give them a shitty review in as many places as you can. You are a paying customer and you deserve quality.

[brndck]

ya i bought the ecu off ebay. i've already sent them an email about it. the ecu is completely NOT as advertised. and hells yes i do all my own work these days. when i first had the sr swap done it was 2001 and i knew nothing about cars. now i'm a master tech and NO ONE else touches my car. at least that way i only have me to blame.