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KoukiMonsta
12-16-2009, 10:35 PM
So the car stared running funny, i pulled my plugs and found this in the cylinder closest to the firewall.....how does it happen?

and should i be worried? was i way to lean? to hot?
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m249/kitefl/IMG_3906.jpg

n8RPS13
12-16-2009, 10:39 PM
From running to hot the plug gets hot and basically melts until it touches the electrod

zylvia213
12-16-2009, 11:08 PM
From running to hot the plug gets hot and basically melts until it touches the electrod

So your saying when it over heats this can happen?

To the OP were you the one that installed these plugs initially?

Chrischeezer
12-16-2009, 11:10 PM
looks pretty normal to me..


whats your egt's look like?
timing problem?

om3ga
12-16-2009, 11:13 PM
looks pretty normal to me..


whats your egt's look like?
timing problem?


[email protected]!#[email protected]# Do you not see the NO GAP AT ALL?!?!?! OH MY GOD! I nearly urinated myself.

slider2828
12-16-2009, 11:14 PM
There is oil all over that plug... THat should tell you its a problem... Also notice your tip is completely gone....

That cylinder basically is NOT firing.... that is NOT normal

Chrischeezer
12-16-2009, 11:34 PM
{nahhhh looks good to me... id put that spark plug right back in my tranny.}


like a said before, check your timing.. your egt's or cylinder temps. are way to high
I've seen that before but the motor had the wrong plug... had a ngk 4 (super hot plug) but i don't think you would mess something up like that..



.. wait a sec???... what type of plug is that?!!
what heat range?
whats the exact part number?,
it looks a little warm from the pic, but then again what do i know... i put spark plugs in transmissions :D

davirene
12-16-2009, 11:42 PM
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg

NismoDriverS13
12-16-2009, 11:46 PM
why dont u just bend it back to normal and call it a day?

u might have over tightened it...........

Chrischeezer
12-16-2009, 11:58 PM
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/read_plug/plugdiag.jpg
FAIL 1
those are lawnmower/ or dirt bike plugs. LOL
and nothing like what he's experiencing


why dont u just bend it back to normal and call it a day?

u might have over tightened it...........

FAIL 2

there is no electrode left..

Ben G
12-17-2009, 12:15 AM
1: When diagnosing a spark plug YOU DO NOT LOOK AT THE THREADS just the electrode and the plastic in the center electrode.

2: that is from your spark plug running too hot not the engine just the spark plug!


your plug is not fouled what so ever you just need to change the heat range for your personal style of driving you are going to want a colder plug

colder plug= for faster driving freeway driving anytime you actually warm up the engine and get it going

hot plug= put this in your grandmothers car because that shit is never going to get warm for people who just do a few things around town and thats it

Jacob'S13
12-17-2009, 01:57 AM
someone in here created the same post. he is also having the same type of problem, his sparkplug came out same as yours.

KoukiMonsta
12-17-2009, 01:01 PM
So your saying when it over heats this can happen?

To the OP were you the one that installed these plugs initially?

yes i installed them, brand new perfect plugs. i am concluding it was due to overheating, now why was that? been running those plugs for ~5 months.


whats your egt's look like?
timing problem?

this is my guess, idk about egts and i need to find a timing light, but not exactly sure what to check w/ it??

There is oil all over that plug... THat should tell you its a problem... Also notice your tip is completely gone....

That cylinder basically is NOT firing.... that is NOT normal

well no shit:smash: lol....cylinder stopped firing so i pulled the plugs

{nahhhh looks good to me... id put that spark plug right back in my tranny.}


like a said before, check your timing.. your egt's or cylinder temps. are way to high
I've seen that before but the motor had the wrong plug... had a ngk 4 (super hot plug) but i don't think you would mess something up like that..



.. wait a sec???... what type of plug is that?!!
what heat range?
whats the exact part number?,
it looks a little warm from the pic, but then again what do i know... i put spark plugs in transmissions :D

is a ngk iridium 7 heat range plug (from enjuku for sr's)

why dont u just bend it back to normal and call it a day?

u might have over tightened it...........

this guy is retarded

1: When diagnosing a spark plug YOU DO NOT LOOK AT THE THREADS just the electrode and the plastic in the center electrode.

2: that is from your spark plug running too hot not the engine just the spark plug!


your plug is not fouled what so ever you just need to change the heat range for your personal style of driving you are going to want a colder plug

colder plug= for faster driving freeway driving anytime you actually warm up the engine and get it going

hot plug= put this in your grandmothers car because that shit is never going to get warm for people who just do a few things around town and thats it

im running heat range 7, that was on 12 psi w/ a t2871r. what do u suggest i run?

Touge180sx
12-17-2009, 01:09 PM
Plastic on a spark plug? I hope your joking.

So it runs great then one day it stops firing so you pull the plug and find this?

Sounds like the right plug to me, Did you catch it when installing the plug to close the gap? what was it gapped to originally?

How does it run with a new plug?

Check your compression while your at it.

Chrischeezer
12-17-2009, 02:28 PM
Ok, from the looks of it.. thats an iridium plug right?

go buy a set of normal copper bkr7es-11, gap them at 32

can u get me the exact plug number? The plug looks hot to me..

fckillerbee
12-17-2009, 02:37 PM
Ok, from the looks of it.. thats an iridium plug right?

go buy a set of normal copper bkr7es-11, gap them at 32

can u get me the exact plug number? The plug looks hot to me..

all you guys are idiots...this guy clearly knows what he is talkin about...all other posts are useless!:aw:

Hashiriya415
12-17-2009, 02:56 PM
maybe you stretched your rod bolts under high RPM, piston lightly touched the plug, you should be able to hear some knocking.

s13 @ fullboost
12-17-2009, 03:03 PM
your missing bad and have oil on your plug I am going to guess you have a prob that is going to require you to pull the head and so some investigating your plug should never look like that.

Chrischeezer
12-17-2009, 03:09 PM
maybe you stretched your rod bolts under high RPM, piston lightly touched the plug, you should be able to hear some knocking.


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b24/Nightmare30/Funny%20stuff/facepalm.jpg

your missing bad and have oil on your plug I am going to guess you have a prob that is going to require you to pull the head and so some investigating your plug should never look like that.

http://19.media.tumblr.com/mCU8jmcCknhaneztKwDmYdCyo1_500.jpg

shift_jin
12-17-2009, 03:23 PM
^ lol

some of these posts need to be deleted before someone thinks its the truth

dudermagee
12-17-2009, 03:33 PM
since everyone is just yelling out answers....
what I would do is get a new same exact plugg and put it in, watch the car for anything wierd, if it comes back\starts acting wierd again go from there

Hashiriya415
12-17-2009, 03:39 PM
I thought you already put new plugs in already by now, yea that would be the first step

KoukiMonsta
12-17-2009, 04:39 PM
Ok, from the looks of it.. thats an iridium plug right?

go buy a set of normal copper bkr7es-11, gap them at 32

can u get me the exact plug number? The plug looks hot to me..

thanks for the facepalm post, i loleddddddddd. some people r saying some crazy shit

i was running these(4 of them to be exact.....) heat range 7 NGK Iridium Spark Plug Set for Nissan SR20DET [ NGKIRDSR ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication (http://www.enjukuracing.com/iridium-spark-plug-nissan-sr20det-p-7984.html)

**to anybody reading those r a fucking waste of money, buy the bkr7's and change em like every other oil change. cost me 8.50 for 4 of em instead of 40 bucks

and i ALREADY got 4 NEW copper bkr7's gapped at 32(first thing i did when i found this shit)...and shes running like a fucking champ, normal as always.

but i am still wondering why? did it lean out just that cylinder, due to injector? is the tune bad(enthalpy)? i was doing some highway pulls when it happened bTW. i want to pull the head but this is my only car so.....

slider2828
12-17-2009, 06:53 PM
Its hard to say, just keep pulling the plug out of the cylinder and see. Heat range 7 is fine.... No one knows what is going on... With that much oil on it as I said, either its your spark seal on the valve cover or you have a problem with the motor. But either way, sparks should be clean and clear from all oil and of course alu....

it could be injector, no one knows, you just have to keep an eye on it often. If it happens again its definitely some mechanical and to rule out injector. Move the injector around..... to another cylinder

Now that you have a copper that is a good way to have some sort of safety measure... But keep a very close eye on it.... Like after every drive... Cause something like that should happen instantaneously.....

Chrischeezer
12-17-2009, 09:16 PM
... I'm just guessing but, i don't think there is any oil on that plug, its just fuel soaked carbon... because it was misfiring.

Max_PSi
12-17-2009, 09:39 PM
Thats what I was going to say. I really don't see any oil on that plug, and if its not firing its just being splashed with fuel.

slider2828
12-17-2009, 11:59 PM
At the based of the threads looks like oil to me... And he said he just put those in, there should not be carbon like that

240sxxs
12-18-2009, 12:23 AM
yep will be checking my plug tomorrow now

s13 @ fullboost
12-18-2009, 02:14 AM
looks pretty normal to me..


whats your egt's look like?
timing problem?



http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e49/hasanlovesfood/vader-fail1.jpg

KoukiMonsta
12-18-2009, 02:35 PM
... I'm just guessing but, i don't think there is any oil on that plug, its just fuel soaked carbon... because it was misfiring.

agreed, i think it was getting fed fuel and no spark to burn it...

Thats what I was going to say. I really don't see any oil on that plug, and if its not firing its just being splashed with fuel.

yes

At the based of the threads looks like oil to me... And he said he just put those in, there should not be carbon like that

i didnt just put them on, its been about 6 months...

Ceepo
12-19-2009, 01:05 AM
I think its needs to look like that from the factory, it will give you better gas mileage, expecially if it doesnt burn any fuel, it will be like 10000miles to the gallon...


But on a serious note:
Could be a bad tune, car running rich will cause plugs to foul, idk why that plug is bent like that, can you look at the top of the piston and see if it hit the plug? i run the bkr7's(non iridium) and have been fine, my car runs very rich(no tune yet, fmic, full exhaust, redtop) and i have yet to see my plugs come out with no gap, when and if you find out why please let us know im curious...

Walperstyle
12-19-2009, 05:40 AM
Wow. At least there was one or two smart people that chimed into this thread. Lots of mindnumbing advice.

I [email protected] the 'you dont look at the threads' comment.

I think anyone that 'tunes' a car, in anyway, should have a minimum an AFR gauge. It tells you when things are going wrong usually before bad things happen. (not everything, but it helps give you an idea how the engine is running)

Second. Except it can be expensive. Get a proper EMS tune. I'm going standalone, but yeah, it kinda sucks being its like $1200 on average for the AEM EMS. However... you can do everything including bake a cake with that software from what I've seen. A EMS 'tune' is needed if you start to go larger injectors and up boost etc. Otherwise, you get to that point where your EMS gets confused and your car craps out.

KoukiMonsta
12-19-2009, 03:16 PM
i got an egt gauge setup where the o2 bung in the turbo elbow is. what kinda numbers should i be looking for.

Chrischeezer
12-19-2009, 04:23 PM
if the EGT is that far back you should see numbers around 500's during driving.. and 900's when beating it up.





http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e49/hasanlovesfood/vader-fail1.jpg

wow... I though this thread could have no more stupid posts.. but you proved me wrong.
read the thread before you post.

Is it me.. or is there a HUGE influx of stupid people on Zilvia.
you guys are giving this forum a bad name.

g6civcx
12-19-2009, 05:14 PM
I think anyone that 'tunes' a car, in anyway, should have a minimum an AFR gauge.

Or if you're hardcore, at some point you'll throw out the AFR and just run individual EGTs at the collector and tune with that :)

KoukiMonsta
12-19-2009, 05:19 PM
if the EGT is that far back you should see numbers around 500's during driving.. and 900's when beating it up.



Is it me.. or is there a HUGE influx of stupid people on Zilvia.
you guys are giving this forum a bad name.

seriously, this thread was filled w/ a bunch of RANDOM B.S. that was rediculous

my idle temps about ~400 mayb up to 600 w/ some driving. ill check it out when ripping thru second lol

thanks for the good info cheezer

KoukiMonsta
12-20-2009, 09:31 PM
well today going WOT thru 3rd it got up to about 1000 and then i had a loud backfire....whats happening...

Chrischeezer
12-20-2009, 10:09 PM
well today going WOT thru 3rd it got up to about 1000 and then i had a loud backfire....whats happening...

pull the plugs again, please for my piece of mind, Read the plug number off the plugs for me.

what was the last thing you changed before this started happening?

Devens240
12-21-2009, 12:12 AM
maybe you stretched your rod bolts under high RPM, piston lightly touched the plug, you should be able to hear some knocking.

this one made me ELL OH ELL :newbie:

slider2828
12-21-2009, 09:58 AM
Hope people know that AEM's need a trigger wheel and that is the worst part about the system... Just go PowerFC...

Seriously you plugs usually will not get bent in like that even though it gets hot. I think its physical contact.

Did you check your plugs again.... Driving it and not looking at the same plug again doesn't help worth shit diagnosing your problem.

KoukiMonsta
12-21-2009, 10:22 AM
pull the plugs again, please for my piece of mind, Read the plug number off the plugs for me.

what was the last thing you changed before this started happening?

i havent changed anything in a long time....but i do have an idea. im running an enthalpy tune for hks gt2510, z32 maf, fmic, 850cc's. etc.

but i have a t2871r in the car, i emailed scott(enthalpy) and he said i was safe running up to 12 psi. and im running 10(usually like 9.6 max on my aem controller/gauge) so im not exactly sure. whats up

AND

BKR7E stock no. 4644 NGK v-powerhttp://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m249/kitefl/photo-3.jpg

Chrischeezer
12-21-2009, 11:10 AM
i havent changed anything in a long time....but i do have an idea. im running an enthalpy tune for hks gt2510, z32 maf, fmic, 850cc's. etc.

but i have a t2871r in the car, i emailed scott(enthalpy) and he said i was safe running up to 12 psi. and im running 10(usually like 9.6 max on my aem controller/gauge) so im not exactly sure. whats up

AND

BKR7E stock no. 4644 NGK v-powerhttp://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m249/kitefl/photo-3.jpg

thats the plug,

your tune should be fine at lower boost, But it's tuned for a less volume of air.
very odd problem, i wouldn't run that IR plug anymore.


Hope people know that AEM's need a trigger wheel and that is the worst part about the system... Just go PowerFC...

Seriously you plugs usually will not get bent in like that even though it gets hot. I think its physical contact.

Did you check your plugs again.... Driving it and not looking at the same plug again doesn't help worth shit diagnosing your problem.

physical contact with what?! the piston? even if the plug was long enough to reach the piston, that plug would be obliterated.

KoukiMonsta
12-21-2009, 11:57 AM
srry for my ignorance but IR plug? meaning iridium?

Max_PSi
12-21-2009, 01:49 PM
physical contact with what?! the piston? even if the plug was long enough to reach the piston, that plug would be obliterated.

And I'm saying, what about the valves? The piston will destroy the valves before it even comes close to the plug.

Are you sure you don't have any leaks on the intake mani? Could it be possible your simply pulling in too much air from a leak on the runner for that cylinder?

Paul R
12-21-2009, 02:08 PM
thats what happens when you don't properly gap your spark plugs when putting them in your car look up manufacture specs on the proper gap clearance next time you put them back in under harsh heat ungapped plugs will do that every time the motor is hot . Also oil on plug means possible valve guide seals or bad spark plug gasket under the valve cover .

good luck with the fix

KoukiMonsta
12-21-2009, 02:40 PM
is this for real, do u read? i gapped that shit. and actually these things come gapped perfectly EVERY time for me....so far at least

thats what happens when you don't properly gap your spark plugs when putting them in your car look up manufacture specs on the proper gap clearance next time you put them back in under harsh heat ungapped plugs will do that every time the motor is hot . Also oil on plug means possible valve guide seals or bad spark plug gasket under the valve cover .

good luck with the fix

cleantune
12-21-2009, 03:11 PM
I pretty much skipped to the end after i saw back to back facepalm action lol.

I would suggest running a colder plug though (just cause it sits higher up out of the cylinder, thus allowing less of the plugs tip to be exposed to the heat...i think haha). I'm runnin NGK BKR9's.

Credit/ kudos to whoever posted the first real diagnosis. I totally agree the extra heat could do this.

I have heard that hotter plugs cause problems in turbo cars, but I havent seen plugs like this before (I'm amateur haha), Thanks for sharing :) . I hope you figure things out, keep us updated

KoukiMonsta
12-21-2009, 03:23 PM
pulled the plugs and this is how they look. they got whiteish stuff on em, on the lettle part that sticks out...and i tiny bit of oil on the threads.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m249/kitefl/IMG_3951.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m249/kitefl/IMG_3945.jpg...

DRIFT-ELITE
12-21-2009, 03:38 PM
even tho ppl say they come pre-gaped always assume that they aren't and checkm anyways, which I'm sure u do since u said so they've always came gaped to where u want them or should be...

anyways keep us updated I wanna see what's going on....ur situation has me checking my plugs to make sure mine are okay..

Chrischeezer
12-21-2009, 04:37 PM
looks alright to me, even though its a lean.. its all even and consistent showing now evidence of a problem.

-maybe bump up ur fuel pressure 2 or 3 lbs.
- i don't see any oil, only carbon, I have no explanation for that one plug closing like that... very very odd.

KoukiMonsta
12-21-2009, 04:48 PM
looks alright to me, even though its a lean.. its all even and consistent showing now evidence of a problem.

-maybe bump up ur fuel pressure 2 or 3 lbs.
- i don't see any oil, only carbon, I have no explanation for that one plug closing like that... very very odd.

ill look at that, thanks for all your help man!! +rep

slider2828
12-21-2009, 04:59 PM
Its not lean.....

The white parts on those doesn't tell you its lean. It depends on the first two rings on the plugs to tell how fuel level is....

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/Readplugs.html

Best site I use...

Chrischeezer
12-21-2009, 05:22 PM
^ ok, go listen to Domestic v8 Drag cars with nitrous oxide. that run their plugs for 1/4 mile at a time.
*sarcasm


like i said before your plugs look alright but lean, drive around for a while check on them in about 500 miles.



EDIT: OMG lol look at the first few lines on that page..
""" (This applies to Naturally Aspirated as well as Nitrous Engines) This is valid for track only (not street driving) if you shut your engine off at the finish line, then remove the plugs for reading.""

drag racing = :ghey:

dubtastic
12-21-2009, 06:11 PM
If the ground electrode has a white ash appearing substance on it that is normal for a new spark plug. How is it running with the new plugs? Is it still going rich/lean and backfiring?

But it is true you can check A/F mixture by cutting the shell below machined wrench flats. If you see a light thin ring it's lean, a black thick ring is rich. I've never seen anyone do this, it's pointless if you have a wideband.

The ground electrode can hint you at ignition timing too.

Look at the ground electrode curve, there should be a blueish like line in the center of the ground electrode curve if timing is close enough.
If the line is closer to the threads = too advanced
If the line is closer to tip of the ground electrode = too retarded

DRIFT-ELITE
12-21-2009, 06:46 PM
Reading Spark Plugs Correctly (http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/Readplugs.html)

Best site I use...




EDIT: OMG lol look at the first few lines on that page..
""" (This applies to Naturally Aspirated as well as Nitrous Engines) This is valid for track only (not street driving) if you shut your engine off at the finish line, then remove the plugs for reading.""

drag racing = :ghey:



ahahaha, so much for ur best site man....don't mean it in a bad way but really shouldve read it before posting it...

anyways yeah the plugs do look a little white ish, and there is carbon build up but not to much...if anything try driving a little more on them but bump the fpr up a few pounds like Cheeser says and let us know how it feels or if it's still acting up...

my car runs a little rich so a backfire here and a little flame there is usual on my car....I do have a exhaust leak tho so yeah..

gl

rb25_s13*CHUKI
12-26-2009, 07:56 PM
^ ok, go listen to Domestic v8 Drag cars with nitrous oxide. that run their plugs for 1/4 mile at a time.
*sarcasm


like i said before your plugs look alright but lean, drive around for a while check on them in about 500 miles.



EDIT: OMG lol look at the first few lines on that page..
""" (This applies to Naturally Aspirated as well as Nitrous Engines) This is valid for track only (not street driving) if you shut your engine off at the finish line, then remove the plugs for reading.""

drag racing = :ghey:

Drag racing can be just as fun as any other type of racing. And that Is a very effective and FREE way of checking how fuel Is burning. I enjoy a drag race just as much as I do drifting Or road racing. My dad showed me this method. But hey your probly one of those guys who takes your car to pep boys to have your spark plugs changed.

KoukiMonsta
12-28-2009, 04:28 PM
cool fucking story.....
Drag racing can be just as fun as any other type of racing. And that Is a very effective and FREE way of checking how fuel Is burning. I enjoy a drag race just as much as I do drifting Or road racing. My dad showed me this method. But hey your probly one of those guys who takes your car to pep boys to have your spark plugs changed.

Chrischeezer
12-29-2009, 01:57 AM
Drag racing can be just as fun as any other type of racing. And that Is a very effective and FREE way of checking how fuel Is burning. I enjoy a drag race just as much as I do drifting Or road racing. My dad showed me this method. But hey your probly one of those guys who takes your car to pep boys to have your spark plugs changed.

OH a FREE WAY TO CHECK YOUR PLUGS... cuz that makes sense..

your dad is wrong, YOU CAN'T use that method those plugs have been used for 1/4 mile, NATURALLY ASPIRATED or NITROUS ENGINES

but what do i know, my cars are built at "pepboys" !!!! BAHAHAHA!!! :hahano:

my PEPBOY CARS!!
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/Picture002.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ChrisCheezer/Picture120.jpg

and yes... drag racing is fucking GHAY!!!!!

jilo
12-29-2009, 05:37 PM
the oil on the plugs is most likely from valve cover gaskests leaking slowly into the spark plug tubes. has the afr ever been checked at all? afr, timing and exhaust leaks should be checked out instead of worrying and speculating. if the egr gets up to 1000 deg just driving around you are probably lean like thers said, and it would explain the backfire also.

landins13
12-29-2009, 05:54 PM
if the EGT is that far back you should see numbers around 500's during driving.. and 900's when beating it up.







wow... I though this thread could have no more stupid posts.. but you proved me wrong.
read the thread before you post.

Is it me.. or is there a HUGE influx of stupid people on Zilvia.
you guys are giving this forum a bad name.

you should realize by now that zilvia has no reputation of being a helpful source of intelectual information it is the collaborative spamming of 5000 morons who gobble eachothers nuts over fitment. 90% assholes 10% cool people.

to the OP something is fucked obviously. the plug does not look like its been running that hot as it is not whitened. it also does not look as though you are running stupid rich, it appears as though it was tapped by the piston, but its pretty strange for the electrode to be gone as it seems to be by the picture. its kinda hard to determine what happend without knowing all of the circumstances / conditions before the failure.

KoukiMonsta
12-29-2009, 10:17 PM
you should realize by now that zilvia has no reputation of being a helpful source of intelectual information it is the collaborative spamming of 5000 morons who gobble eachothers nuts over fitment. 90% assholes 10% cool people.

to the OP something is fucked obviously. the plug does not look like its been running that hot as it is not whitened. it also does not look as though you are running stupid rich, it appears as though it was tapped by the piston, but its pretty strange for the electrode to be gone as it seems to be by the picture. its kinda hard to determine what happend without knowing all of the circumstances / conditions before the failure.

i just lol'd

ur right man. im thinking about pulling the head to have a peak. is there a guide to that around here(s13 sr)

Chrischeezer
12-30-2009, 01:36 AM
????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????

i give up..