My 240SX

[Bill Roberts]

First of all, allow me to introduce myself. Bill Roberts here.

In NOV. 01 I purchased a one owner 240SX/SE, fastback.

Aside of the foul job the original dealer did installing the "foam spoiler" (rusting out hatch) the car had pretty maticulous records. Of dismay, was all the service this car required...or was done to it. Over 140 invoices....AND...not all dealers...some jack-leg gas station folks that did not replace approprate screws, fixtures..etc.

The car had a lonely 103K on it when I took delivery and now has 120K.

I use it basically for a daily driver but it seems that it cost close to a new car payment for a Jag.,.. to keep roadworthy.

I am a DIY guy. In longer years, I have (going back to 74) owned a valiant-64, a bug-67, a vega-73(cosworth), a Regal S coupe (turbo-78) a 79 cutless supreme, 83-626 mazda, 84 Mazda B2000 (over 400Kmiles on that one)72 duster,69 camero, 76 Vette, 94 ZR-1 vette, 96 cavelier Z-24 conv., 97 4WD blazer, 2001 Espalade, Porsche 911T (87)....so I am familiar with cars and working on cars.

I do not mind tearing into it for a worthwile situation. Remember though, limited income.


What I am doing with the 240 is staying with the KA engine but problems include:

Rusted out rear fastback hatch.
Leaky injectors.
AC compressor blown.
Worn out drivers seat.
Alternator diode trio keeps blowing.( I put it on charge on weekends)
Boots on all suspension points shot.(torn)
Cracked windscreen (3rd time in less than 2 years)
Fan motor dead, not getting voltage
Intermidant idle speed setings. (varies big time)
Leaky radiator (top by hose connection..I add coolent regularly)
Noisy 3rd gear (not bad..but it whines)
Insurance way too high for an old car. (870/year, no citations ever)
Slow to moderate for this much trouble.


Positives.

The car is fun to drive, handles like a rock, quick enough for now..I do not rawhide it, just a few simple speed trials for times. (14.8/94mph).


My point is to ask this:

Can I get a point by point correction detail from the members of this forum for me to correct these issues for a ligitimate price (average cost, good places to order parts) or should I just take the best offer and get a used corrola and say the heck with a performance vehicle?

I just want it to be problem free, good running car.

I can actually bike to work. At 44 years old, this is not an option. too old to brave city traffic.

Any idea what a ballpark figure and sweat equity would be to get this car tight enough for the next 3 years? Right now, a brand new Jag is only about 430 a month after insurance. 39 month lease. It is costing almost that now. I am not rich.


I am divorced with a meager income. I can only afford an extra 200 per month if I lay back on a nessesity like food..etc..

I know, at my age, how can I be in this shape? Well divorce taking it all is how...and try to find decent wages today at my age. My area of expertise is not needed...audio arts...I use to be a Cheif engineer for a major recording studio. These days a hack with a cheap computer is a "recording engineer" so my skills are no longer needed and my investment in equipment is worth less than a penny on the dollar. It is all boat anchors.


So with the above info...


What would you do?

I am fairly passionant about this car, otherwise I would not have taken the time to ask you folks, the enthusist of this particular vehicle.

Thank you for any ideas.

(I appreciate some guidance based on experience and excuse the typos..all to often if you are a newbee at a forum, you get the usual BS treatment. I did not come here for that, just good ideas and advice...and thank you)

Bill (PS, I use my real name)

I have a covered carport and tools.

[mrmephistopheles]

Hi, Bill. Welcome to Zilvia. Looks like you have quite a bit of work ahead of you, and I'm sure we can help you out. In the meantime while you're waiting for users to respond, I'd recommend our lovely search function and FAQ archive, as they are chock full of useful information and answers to the questions you have.

I'll move this to the chat forum, since it's less of a hard tech topic and more of an intro and Q&A session. It'll get more exposure there.

-Kevin

[Bill Roberts]

Thanks for the warm welcome mrmephistopheles!

I am searching through as we speak (spend most this weekend searching) it seems "performace soultions" for this car is mostly the options I see. The dealer is so expensive here in South florida (230 for factory plug wires Urrrrgghhh...and I was going to do it..) and between autozone (:() and some of the other parts outlets here, if you are not into the "clique" or if you are "an old man" like me, they see wallets and I am running up against folks that are basically telling me to dump the car, quickly grabbing their wallet offering me 1400 for it...so I know that car has potential.

I will keep searching...but in the meantime, if anyone has some fresh ideas or knows someone "cool to help" in the West Palm area, Man..I am Hip to that. I cannot be late for my day job anylonger from breakdowns ..less I get canned..

Thanks!

[turboex]

I see ya problem and i feel ya. I dumped my 2000 civic si just to have a car with a low payment. Pluss i wanted it kinda fast to, i now have 10grand in mine the car being the cheapest part. Some of the prices you are getting like the plug wires is kinda crazy, ebay can be your best friend if ya look a good bit. Also check with shops that do swaps on this board and im sure they can get stock parts for you for a great price. If i had known i would have given you my old motor for free (just shipping) as i threw it out just to get rid of it. As for the bushings im sure there all cracked, but you can get away with that for a good while, just put a few bucks in here and there. I just sold an a/c compressor for that car on ebay for like 40 bucks so im sure theres more out there. I may have an altinator 2 if ya want it, ill look. As for the hatch contact some junk yards as the ones up north have tons of them. I know were a perfect hatch is up here, no rust, but its in north dakota. Do you have an IM name, if so post it and ill give ya mine, im on all the time and totally willing to help ya out.

[mrmephistopheles]

As far as 240 specific vendors, check out the Links section of the website.. It lists places like PDM-racing.com, courtesy nissan of texas (which provides 240SXCCA members with a 25% discount on OEM parts), etc, etc.

As far as your problems:

Rusted out rear fastback hatch.
Leaky injectors.
AC compressor blown.
Worn out drivers seat.
Alternator diode trio keeps blowing.( I put it on charge on weekends)
Boots on all suspension points shot.(torn)
Cracked windscreen (3rd time in less than 2 years)
Fan motor dead, not getting voltage
Intermidant idle speed setings. (varies big time)
Leaky radiator (top by hose connection..I add coolent regularly)
Noisy 3rd gear (not bad..but it whines)
Insurance way too high for an old car. (870/year, no citations ever)
Slow to moderate for this much trouble.


New (used but good shape) hatches can be acquired from junkyards for ~100; new/reman injectors can be sourced from $50-270 from junkyards or RC/Python; replacement s13 seats are anywhere from 0-$50 per, and sets of s14 seats can be had for as little as $200; alternators usually go for $75 or so; shock boots aren't really a worrisome thing; windshields can be acquired and installed mostly anywhere for 100-200 bucks; a/c fan isn't as big a deal, but likely cause for failure is missing/blown fusible links; fluctuating idle can be caused by many things, more often than not, it's a leak in the air intake system or a messed up MAF that's causing it; radiators can be had for ~50-100 bucks; trannies can be had for 100-250 or so; insurance... well that's all on your driving record, distance driven/year, and area the car is stored.. i'd say shop around. I pay about that much for my car in SOCAL!.

Used parts can be found on places like car-part.com

Edit: Also check out the For Sale section, as folks are parting out their 240s ALL the time.

[turboex]

I think i still have radiator too, ill have to check

[mrmephistopheles]

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
it seems "performace soultions" for this car is mostly the options I see.
One reason for that is sometimes those performance solutions cost less than stock replacement stuff!

[Bbandit]

welcome to zilvia, bill
make sure you check the for sale section often
you can find some parts for less $$$ over there
good luck

[Bill Roberts]

Wooo!! Thanks everyone!

I came in for lunch real quick, got to go back to work...but I will leave my IM names as soon as I get back home. MSN is audiowkstation
I will have to look at the spelling for yahoo and AIM, and the ICQ is 43786958.

Great information!! Will write more "thanks" when I get back in!

:)

Bill

[sykikchimp]

I have found that the early model 240's had a lot of issues with grounding. Adding a couple grounds to a few select spots around the electronics on the engine can help a lot.

Certain places to ground to that help are the IACV and EGT. This is a common place for idle problems to exsist. you can also help out that idle a good bit by shooting some carb cleaner down the hose connecting to the IACV here:
http://charles.sykikchimp.org/images/iaa.jpg

and into the AIV. (the little black box that sits on the right side of the engine, next to the shock tower. The reeds inside get gunky, and stop functioning properly, and don't allow the EGT system to work properly.)

Injectors leaking is a very common problem on the 89-90 240's. you may be able to fix it by just replacing the o-rings. They are MUCH cheaper than buying new injectors.

Rusted hatches are always a problem when you have the crap foam wing. The cheapest solution is to buy a new hatch at a junkyard without the wing. It is easy to swap out. I can give you details on how to do this later if you like. just PM me.

Have you replaced the alternator yet? If not have you had it tested? This may also be related to bad grounding. I would suggest adding a ground wire here as well.

The T/C rod bushings, Tie Rod ends, and Ball joints on the front suspension all suffer the same fate after many years of abuse. You can get the tie rod ends, and ball joints cheap at Auto Zone. Check out PDM-Racing for new T/C rods. Keep the rubber bushings in the T/C rods, and skip on the Poly bushes there. If you feel like you want to upgrade get some Spherical bearing T/C rods from Kazamma. There is a big Kazamma group buy going on, and they are awesome and at a decent price.
As for the Rear bushings, they are quite a bit harder to deal with. The subframe bushings can be replaced, but they require burning them out, and presisng in new ones. Not fun, or easy. But all stuff you can do at home with enough time. Whiteline makes really nice Poly bushs for our cars for ANY place that there is rubber.

3rd gear Synchros are usually the first to start showing signs of wear in these cars. I rarely hear of total failure. Usually just hard shifting, and or whine.

A lot of the other stuff you speak of just needs replacement. Check out the local junkyards, and car-part.com

-Charles

p.s. Welcome to Zilvia

[drift freaq]

welcome Bill, with our help we could make that little grey hatch of yours kick some butt.:D and be reliable. You are having standard high mileage matinence issues that as other people have pointed out are sortable. You could actually turn it all around if you just follow suggestions here . A lot of us are very savy at making these cars into valuable machines i.e. you would not lose your investment into upgrades and parts if you go about it in a smart way.

(0ff topic section)
And a big shout out to you for being a fellow Audio Engineer:D
Yes the industry has changed but do not dis the computer setup boys or the Hard disk jockeys. Fact is a talented engineer producer is still a commodity becuase there are some many hacks out there. They key though these days is building your own setup and finding and producing acts and marketing them.
I know I live in Hollywood. I am friends with some very successful sound engineers and producers. Most of them are doing there own thing these days rather than trying to work for a major studio per se.
I am in the process of starting my own record label and finding acts to produce.
Dave, the Digidesign certified Pro Tools engineer who sees far to many union boys out of work and in line ahead of him. :p :D
give me a shout if you want to talk more .
peaceout

[Bill Roberts]

Super nice solid advice from everyone. I thank you all!
\
....(I forgot to mention having to add PS fluid every other week as well :))

Looks like the high points should come first. I replaced the plugs and plug wires, rotor button and distributor cap. I took a look at the timing, looks correct. One problem I am having is actually identifying what parts are what. I am slightly intimidated with engine management systems but I know electronics enough, if I can correlate some of the signal flow and vaccum flow, and where each vital part is, what it is called (I got about 60% of the figured out) and go for it.

I guess the first thing is to get that wireing harness tightened up and make sure everything is functioning. Their is a vacuum hose that plugs into a device right before the butterfly, that was off!. I connected it..but it is running the same way as before.

Next, like Saturday, I want to try to replace the O rings on the injectors. Never pulled a fuel rail before, got to figure that one out. Number 3 is leaking and pretty wet. Number one is not stock (factory) as it is red colored instead of black. I am going to look for a blow by blow in the search on replacing those O-rings. Each injector will "turn" in its socket. Moving number 2 while idleing will cause misfire (running on 3 cylinders). If I can get the O-rings replaced (I did the front rotors and brake pads this afternoon :)) that will be a major step. I will do the carb cleaner and check for gunky relays.


The grounding seems like a great idea. I also went by a P&B shop to see how much it would cost to paint a new (J-yard) hatch if I don't find one the same color...what a rip...350!!! So I am going to search for the same color...Shipping I feel would be worth it. I could go with the rear wiper..but mine does not have one so....I don't need more weight or motors.

Cruise is out. Worked perfect the first 4 months I had the car, it just stopped working one day...light on left dash button works, but it will not engage. It is a low priority thing.

About that alternator. A good friend of mine in Pensacola Florida owns B&M starter and alternator. Hr rebuilt the factory unit and he does splended work. Pcola is 650 miles away, I will not be going up there anytime soon and actually I think some intermidant connection may be causing the diode problem. I also may have overreved it as well. It does have the 115MPH cutoff and the fuel shutdown at 6700. I do not test those speeds or revs. much...as I feel that anything above 5500 is just blowing smoke if I were to "run it" anyway...but those numbers are for reference purposes.


Looks like I have come to the right place. I like to share war storys with you folks and I really feel this car is worth it. I always thought the styling to be years ahead of its time and the RWD...well..need I say more there.

Here is what I have done to it since ownership:

Replaced air filter with an OEM (should do better I know..)
Replaced all 4 tires with BF goodrich 215 60 15
Oil and filter ever 2 months..Oil stays clear mainly.
Blades.
2 windshields (debris on I95 kills them)
Replaced factory stereo with basic AM/FM CD. Bought dynaudio drivers and a single poweramp for later on (a lot later, no hurry for tunes of that magnitude)
Replaced front rotors and pads.
Rebuilt the alternator (B&M) twice.
New Batt cable terminals and battery.
New ignition parts (plugs wires, etc)
Flushed fuel system. Also use Techron every 6 tanks.
Replaced clutch master cylinder (slave is fine still) and flushed.
Flushed radiator.
Replaced upper hose with emergency flex hose (cause of radiator leak..stress) Needs a factory hose.
Slung the air compressor apart. Needs replacement. I cut the belt. Runs better.
Lights on dash AC/Heat module went out. Will check for fuse. Switching between airflow sectors is inop.
Clean the rims maticulously and had all 4 tires speed balanced to 120MPH.
Replaced oil sending unit..(it fell apart, massive leak)..did not run engine low of oil, had it towed.
Ckleaned out spare tire well, painted tire chocks, derusted everything and bought new pouch. I painted all tire tools.
Replaced with new carboard cover. I maticulously clean that well after each rain and dry out.
Tested the spare tire. It is not d rotted yet.

Well, sorry so long...but that is about it.

To drift freaq:

After the divorce, I was able to keep my studio equipment and my Dog. I have an SSL 5000 console, computer workstation with all the toys, 24 tracks of multitrack digital outboard. Tons of compressors, eq's and gates. Lots of plug-ins for the computer. Automated CD burning tower. I have 3 rooms I use for mastering. I still get a few calls for serious work..but not real moneymakers. My mastering facility is DSD ready but since I installed the stuff for SACD mastering, no bites. It is a good old boy club and quite frankly, some of the DSD mastering I have heard is NOT that good. It could have been done better. On this system, the 30th anniversary DSOM is a dissapointment in SACD. Cats just cannot lay off the limiters and compressors. I am afraid they butchered it. Alan sent me a DAT tape a while back and it smokes the SACD.

I have some very honest and powerful monitors driven with a McIntosh MC2500 (500 watts/channel) which are 1975 Yamaha NS1000 master control monitors, SP technologies Timepiece 2.0 and a theater system that I use as reference. I even use the car with the horrible factory speakers but I will change that one day.

Everyone, than you for your attention so far. I promise not to nit-pick stupid questions (no brainers) and use the search to my best ability.

Does anyone have a underhood pick with numbers that I can view (bitmap high rez would be so cool) of what each part is like a microfische blowup? That would really get me intensely into what I am doing with this beast. (?? cool if so)

(BTW)..coming home from work. An idiot was tailgating so close, I could not see their hood. When I got to the next light, they were beside me in a talon. Needless to say, while he was spinning his wheels, I was a good 200 yards ahead on the hole shot.(soft launch 2nd gear) I think I hit 60 before he got off the ground..(sorry , could not resist )

[s0ldats]

bill, welcome to zilvia from a fellow newbie. another place that has alot of useful information is the forums at freshalloy.com.

[Bill Roberts]

AOL Messinger is audiowkstation1
MSN is [email protected]
Yahoo is tubemusik
ICQ is 43786958
I can be called after 9PM EST at 561 582 3784

(sorry for the earlier typos with that "book")

At 43, folks eyes go bad..., as long as I have my ears and they start building roads in Braille, I am in!

[mrmephistopheles]

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
Does anyone have a underhood pick with numbers that I can view (bitmap high rez would be so cool) of what each part is like a microfische blowup? That would really get me intensely into what I am doing with this beast. (?? cool if so)


Your wish is my command
http://www.carfiche.com/s13/

[Bill Roberts]

It Just doesn't get any better than this!!!!!




Thank you!!

[sykikchimp]

I wouldn't recommend using that fuel system cleaner. A lot of times the additional detergents beyond what is already in your gas will rot, and eat away at your fuel system componants. Those additives are all snake oil. Auto makers determine the fuel regulations, and the fuel is plenty good enough these days to keep it all clean. Just make sure your fuel filter gets replaced once a year. You can use any z32 fuel filter. (90-96 300zx) We use the z32 unit cause it's bigger, AND cheaper. A better thing to do for your engine than use fuel/oil additives is just use good oil. Mobil1, Amsoil, Redline, or Royal purple. Synthetic is the way to go. Also, run Premium fuel if you don't already. Many fuel companies add certain detergents to their premium fuel they do not to their lower grades.

[gsracer]

hey Bill, my name is jerry and i have a junkyard here in miami, fl. It is called MOP foreign car. I have a bunch of 240's for 89 - 96. Everything you need from 5 lug conversions to wire connectors. I would be happy to help you get your 240 running right, you can call me at 305 593 0355 or email me at [email protected] Let me know if i can help.

[Bill Roberts]

I will hollar at you during the day (29th) tomorrow. Everyone here is tops. You know I really appreciate the info...I love this communitiy and stayed up till 5AM reading last night this morning. Whoooohoo. The car will live!

BTW, If anyone wants to do a meet in WEST PALM BEACH, I do have a private parking lot (secured downtown) ava. on weekends. I posted it under the link in the Florida meet if that will help!! We could get 35 cars in there. It is also fenced, no problems!

[s0ldats]

Originally posted by Bill Roberts
I will hollar at you during the day (29th) tomorrow. Everyone here is tops. You know I really appreciate the info...I love this communitiy and stayed up till 5AM reading last night this morning. Whoooohoo. The car will live!

BTW, If anyone wants to do a meet in WEST PALM BEACH, I do have a private parking lot (secured downtown) ava. on weekends. I posted it under the link in the Florida meet if that will help!! We could get 35 cars in there. It is also fenced, no problems!


O MAN!!! if only i was in florida....i'm on the other side of the usa ;D california.... good luck with your car. stay safe!

[scandalcat1]

Welcome aboard Bill!!!

As they said, most of the parts are available at junk yards and e-bay. You will find that these guys (the serious ones) are great and very helpful.

Man, thats some high insurance. $74 a month?

You have a classic on your hands, take care of it and it will make you happy. Many upgrade options available to this car. RWD is the shiznit and it is good on gas.

As suggested before, the o-rings are notorious for failing on the S13s and are obviously dangerous if not fixed soon on those injectors.
The fusible links/fuses, whatcha need? I have some Nissan Fan fuses.

[Bill Roberts]

Thanks scandalcat1 and s0ldats!

I am going to start Friday night and "GTO" (get tools out) and set up for the major checkout. All this time I have owned this car and the things that I have done to keep it on the road, it is high time with you experienced folks to start learing this car. I really want to make it rust free, running like a bat out of hell (mid 13's would be fine enough..performace later) well just make everything work like it is supposed to and "know the car". OF all the cars I have owned, I have done most of my own work due to the fact that most times you take your car to anyone else, they will screw up 2 things to fix one. Been down that road. I know I will need you folks in getting this thing right...baby steps of course...but I definitly will keep you posted to how it is going and a special thanks to Jerry which is close enough by that has some parts for me to purchase.

Looks like first, I will do an entire vacuum hose checkout with the microfisch. That will take part of the day..

Next , O rings. If I can get that done and then check all fuses and fusable links, That would be a serious goal for this weekend.

I will keep everyone posted.

After I get the driveability and everything working, next will be Rear hatch...but If I find a bolt on quick, Im will do that soon to keep the water out then it will be AC time, and interior and between all this, fluid leaks.

When we get to the audio system, then it will be time for me to share my special tricks...which will be "you will have some serious sound and save a lot of money" I have major connections with audio..(friend has a shop for that, and I was putting woofers in cars back in 76)

I got a hell of a lot to do. Thanks for being there with me...more to come for sure..

Bill

[CoasTek240]

Sykikok so ur saying i can pour some carb cleaner into the AIV?
i have a custom sorth ram intake so of course i removed that stuff. and was told i can trash the AIV, but instead i removed the box and put a breather on it.

so should I take the breather off an spray in there.

no problems with IDle.. but for future reference i would liek to know.
thanx