Could it be Alternator?

[BoostGetsULaid]

So I was thinking alternator or bad connection.

So in my s13 w/ Sr. I'm not sure how long it has been going on but it didn't happen when the sr was put in over 4 years ago. I'm not sure if it started happening after the alarm was installed.

But since this problem has been happening I've replaced the battery and the terminal connectors. The car has a Viper alarm and a FAL (w/e) turbo timer.

When I start my car the lights are dim but I'll rev it to 2.5-3k and the lights will get brighter and it will be fine. When I turn my car on again warm or cold start I'll have to rev it again and it will be fine

Any help would be great.

[japslapsilvia]

So I was thinking alternator or bad connection.

So in my s13 w/ Sr. I'm not sure how long it has been going on but it didn't happen when the sr was put in over 4 years ago. I'm not sure if it started happening after the alarm was installed.

But since this problem has been happening I've replaced the battery and the terminal connectors. The car has a Viper alarm and a FAL (w/e) turbo timer.

Any help would be great.

what is the problem that you are having?? you neglected to mention whats wrong....

[D.Adams]

best way to test the alternator is to pull the negative cable off the battery while the car is running. If the car dies then its the alternator or take it to autozona and have it tested. i have a viper alarm / auto start and lojack in my car also and never had a issue with it. but i dont know anything about who installed your alarm.

[zylvia213]

what is the problem that you are having?? you neglected to mention whats wrong....

^^^^ what he said... you completely left out the symptoms your car is having.

[BoostGetsULaid]

Sorry added:

"When I start my car the lights are dim but I'll rev it to 2.5-3k and the lights will get brighter and it will be fine. When I turn my car on again warm or cold start I'll have to rev it again and it will be fine"

I'm not sure if the alarm and the turbo timer being wired to the ignition wires would do that.

[BoostGetsULaid]

Update: I've started the car and unplugged the positive cable and it still ran. then unplugged the negative.

[D.Adams]

Update: I've started the car and unplugged the positive cable and it still ran. then unplugged the negative.


negative cable only .. if it still runs after that you have a bigger issue

[BoostGetsULaid]

I tried both individually.

[iambape]

if your battery reads 12.1-7 when your engine is off then its okay.
if your battery reads 13.8-14.1 when your engine on then your alternator is running fine.

[Integra GS]

what about when its running with 13.8 then slowly dropping down to 0?

[migit]

BoostGetsULaid I have the same thing with my car (the dimmed lights after startup, have to rev up to fix), I know my alternators going bad it doesn't charge at idle. I also found out last night if I charge my battery to 100% start it, rev it up, let it run for a few minutes, disconnect the battery and check the charge level it says its at ~60% charge. If I find any answers that might relate I'll pm you.

[bejota180sx]

i don't know if this would help but a few years ago my lights would go really dim when at idle, if i revved the engine they got bright again... i tightened the alternator tension bolt a bit and it fixed... just something easy to check before you have to take the alternator off or something...

[reccakun08]

what about when its running with 13.8 then slowly dropping down to 0?

Then the alternator is not doing its job of recharging the battery or the battery can not hold the charge.

[Big_Balls_JC_S13]

this is going to be stupid I guess but disconnect the alarm... and then see what happens. my car would act all funny after i left it sitting for a while. I knew my alternator was bad so i changed it. I changed the alternator and battery and I will still getting no joy with power like the car wouldn't hold. Then i noticed the alarm was acting all goofy and doing its own thing as if it had its own gremlin inside that couldnt be phased. So I disconnected the alarm and havent had a power issue for a while. Oh yeah I had a viper alarm at the time... hopefully this helps a bit...

[Soup Nazi]

Wow I'm having the exact same problem, just never fixed it yet.

Same thing, when the car is started and at idle the lights are a little dim and even when I have the heat on the air is not coming out as fast.

As soon as I rev it to almost 3k or start to drive it and the RPM's reach 3k, the lights get brighter and the air from the vent comes out harder.

[Mita Orange]

i got a similar problem...but its only when i brake with the lights on...when i brake all my lights dim and i have a brand new alternator and batter. WEIRD.

[RYAN_S-14]

i had a alternator that went bad from 4k and up, it was weird.

I would not be surprised if it was the alternator, if you inplugged the alarm and it stopped i would have the alarm install checked, it might be a loose wire

[Rabboni]

negative cable only .. if it still runs after that you have a bigger issue

Youre dumb.
If you disconnect either of the battery cables while the car is running and it still runs, then your alternator is doing its job of providing electricity for the car to run and charge the battery.
Now, the proper way to test at home it to hook up your voltmeter to the battery and read 13.5-14 volts dc. Now switch the voltmeter to ac; if you read any more than .5 volts then 1 or more of the diodes in the alternator are shorted and it needs to be replaced.
Ideally you could take it to a shop and have them load test it with a vat tester or a micro vat and that would tell you how efficiently the alternator is working.

[Mangudai]

i got a similar problem...but its only when i brake with the lights on...when i brake all my lights dim and i have a brand new alternator and batter. WEIRD.


Do you have an auto ecu?

[Mita Orange]

I don't think I do. Is there anyway to tell by the ECU serial? It's A11-B18 G05.

[Mangudai]

JWT's Nissan ECU core identification list identifies A11-B18 G05 as an ECU for an automatic.