KA starts then dies right after.

[enerj]

Vehicle background;
the car/engine/harness /ECU are all from different places unfortunately. Regardless, I need to get them working together like champs.
Mods;
everything is nearly stock. I have an EGR blockoff plate and I am running just headers now until i get this thing running.

I had the injectors cleaned/serviced although they recommended I put them right back in and run them because they can lock up, but I took a few months before I was able to run them. I have new sparkplugs as well but not cap/rotor.

Problem;
The vehicle has a bit of trouble starting and sounds a bit off but then it will usually start and revs will jump to 1500 rpm. If I don't play with the throttle to keep the revs up, the revs will quickly drop to 0 and the car dies.

There is no idle period. This has made it difficult to even check any sort of timing. The compression has been checked on the engine and it is all good.

Diagnosis;
The ECU is throwing IAT sensor code and IACV code. The IACV code is the only thing I could imagine related to my problem, but I don't think it could cause something this severe.

What I want to do (and hear opinions about this) is check that all the spark plugs are getting spark and all the injectors are firing. Spark test is easy enough, however the fuel is a little complicated. I know I could use a stethoscope, however seeing the injectors squirt would be more reassuring. Anyone ever pulled the rail while it's still hooked up and just shot it into a bucket?


Aside from starting with these 2 things, I'm a little stumped. Do you think open headers could be messing things up?

Any input welcome!
Thanks

[NiSilS14]

To check for fuel, you use carb cleaner or starting fluid. spray some in the intake tract. If the car starts and dies, then it's a fuel problem. It seems like the car does that on it's own already. I think it's safe to assume that it might not be a fuel issue. You mentioned that you installed new injectors, was it installed correctly? Not doubting your ability to wrench on a car, but i have seen people force the fuel rail on. so it didn't sit right causing a vac leak. All the vacuum lines hooked up? Everything after the MAF hooked up? MAF facing the right direction of airflow? Any open/unplugged hoses and/or leaks can cause the car to start and die. Just some stuff to check for

[[email protected]]

IACV. clean it....

[cleantune]

I drove the car a couple of miles to a shop and back with a huge gap in between the down pipe and header, sounded cool but did not affect the idle.

This seems so familiar, I'm hoping this is the same thing that was wrong with mine so that you can fix it soon!

There is a huge explanation about how ethanol is bad to have in gas, but basically it pulls water out of gas, lowering the octane rating and causing a phase separation (water/alcohol layer and petroleum layer).

I'm not sure how old your gas is, but I would suggest to you what I did to fix my problem.

1. buy some Stabil fuel stabilizer (red liquid found at any auto store or walmart ~$5) and pour into gas tank, it is safe to use at every fill up. All it is is petroleum distillate that takes back some water from the ethanol and results in a mixing of the fuel components.

2. hold an idle with the gas for about five minutes. If it is like mine it will stall when you let off the gas.

3. Start the car and move it, don't go too far but, try driving it, it will help mix the gas. Again be prepared for it to stall (why it cant go to far away from residence). If it stalls start it again and drive it.

Let me know how this works out :hsdance:

[enerj]

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll look into all of these.

The only vacuum lines I have hooked up now are the FPR, the brake booster, a fat one for IACV coming off intake, and 2 for PCV (one from intake piece, one from block)

Another issue I'm investigating - the 2 ECU's I have are from 95 and 96 obd2. I've tried them both with the same results. The harness I have is S14, I'm not sure if it's obd1 or obd2. Everything from the harness plugged into the engine, with the exception of one small connector coming off the middle of the fuel rail harness section. Could anything here cause problems?

Thanks

[MIKE 34]

So I did a 95 swap into my 93 and everything is connected right and the car ply starts when I put starting fluid on it but then it dies so I thought the fuel pump was bad and didn't have enough presure so I changed it to a brand new one and it still doesn't start I need starting fluid for it to start but then it dies right away any ideas in what it might be thanks

[the-rusty-240]

I have this same problem.... It starts it revs high and then drops down to 0. I have to fether the gas to keep it running. Please tell us when you find out the problem!

[NismoDriverS13]

check idle screw, maf, iacv, vacuum hose leaks, gas lines, throttle cables, timing...there should be no reason for the engine to start up then die, it would at least run like crap but shouldn't die all together. make sure everything is plugged in...

[wussmonster]

This sounds like iacv to me. Grab some Carb cleaner and empty the can into it.

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[inferno s14]

Check your grounds around battery..fuse box..injector ground...ecu ground.. fuel filter......check these before buying shit.

[ZaK687]

Check injector o rings, check the grounds, and spray carb cleaner into the iacv pipe. Also make sure your timing isn't off on the distributor.

[anti tyler]

definitely sounds idle control related to me at least. had a guy weld his IACV port closed and couldn't figure out why his car would die after starting...


Like really?

[MIKE 34]

Ok so I think I found what's wrong. I pulled the rail out (still connected) from the mani and had my buddy crank it, and no fuel was coming out of the injectors. So we tried one of his cars injectors and fuel came out so we we think it's a rare case where none of the injectors are working so I'm in the process of getting some injectors for It of the junkyard probably and hopefully that's the polroblem.