knock sensor going crazy

[redline racer510]

My car (95 240sx KA) is acting really weird my check engine light came on and when I checked the codes i am getting:

P0115
Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0325
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0125
Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

The knock sensor is causing the ecu to dump tons of fuel into the cylinders and it is making my car really hard to start and really hard to keep idle. When I reset the ECU it drives perfect but after 10-20 miles the check engine light goes back on and shows me the same codes as above. The weird thing is that i replaced the Coolant temperaure sensor and its still giving me a code. I reallly dont know what to do I have spent so much time and money trying to figure out the problem is but still no luck. Can anyone help me with my dilema????:(:(:(:confused::confused::confused:

[mxexux]

Ohm out your coolant temp sensor. Also check if there is voltage getting to the sensor. Bad CTS will easily cause the other two problems.

[mxexux]

Oh yea. The knock sensor won't cause the ECU to dump lots of fuel into the cylinders. Knock sensor will only retard the timing when it senses knock. If the CTS reads cold all the time the ECU thinks the car is not warmed up and will run very rich.

[g6civcx]

i replaced the Coolant temperaure sensor

Did you replace the 2pin coolant temp for the ECU or the 1pin thermal transmitter for the gauge cluster?

[redline racer510]

i replaced the 2 pin connector

[redline racer510]

"Bad CTS (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/293431-knock-sensor-going-crazy.html#) will easily cause the other two problems"
So do you thing the ect is causing the knock sensor to go off?

[redline racer510]

Is there a special way to see if your getting voltage to the ect?

[redline racer510]

cant find ANYTHING ABOUT IT IN THE FSM

[dubtastic]

My car (95 240sx KA) is acting really weird my check engine light came on and when I checked the codes i am getting:

P0115
Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0325
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction(Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0125
Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

The knock sensor is causing the ecu to dump tons of fuel into the cylinders and it is making my car really hard to start and really hard to keep idle. When I reset the ECU it drives perfect but after 10-20 miles the check engine light goes back on and shows me the same codes as above. The weird thing is that i replaced the Coolant temperaure sensor and its still giving me a code. I reallly dont know what to do I have spent so much time and money trying to figure out the problem is but still no luck. Can anyone help me with my dilema????:(:(:(:confused::confused::confused:

The knock sensor does one thing only, tell computer to retard ignition timing. Do you feel a hesitation when check engine light goes on?
Your rich condition may be a result of the CTS code because it'll never get in closed loop without it. Open Loop = Mmmm Fuel!

Does it always have a poor idle/hard start or only when the check engine light comes on?

I'm going to try to make this sound as simple as possible.

- Disconnect the wire connector from the coolant temp sensor
- Visually inspect it for corrosion/dirt/etc. Clean if necessary.
- Get 2 T-Pins and backprobe the connectors wires gently past the insulated coating and actually touching the conductive part of the wire. Example..
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/9789/backprobingterminal.jpg
- Now take a jumper wire and connect it together with the two T-pins.
- Turn you key in either accessories or ignition position and your temperature gauge on your dashboard should read highest temperature.

This indicates a bad coolant temperature sensor, replace it.

If you did this and your temperature gauge did not read maximum temperature, you have an open in your circuit wiring. How to check?

- Remove the jumper wire, leave the t-pins still connected.
- Use a self-powered circuit tester and poke the t-pins. One of them should brighten up the test light(the signal wire).. If it doesn't = the open is on the signal wires side of the circuit. If it does brighten up = the open is on the ground side of the circuit.

If you trace these 2 wires you'll find out they are both going right back to your Engine control module. You can backprobe those wires on your ECM harness the same way you did on the sensor connector. Again, it should read maximum temperature. If not, the transistor driver in your ECM is dead. Replace ECM.

Your knock sensor can be checked too. You'll have to find Nissans OEM resistance(ohm) specification for the sensor and use an ohmeter to test yours to compare readings. Also visually inspect wires going to the KS and check signal wire for continuity

[redline racer510]

Damn that was the most helpful thing anyone has ever done for me on this forum. Thanks man I will check tommarrow and let you know the results hopefuly its just a bad ect. as far as knock sensor i still dont know how to test. Again I appreciate your patience and time you spend helping me. Yes when my check engine light comes on the car idles as if it is going to die.

[japslapsilvia]

The knock sensor does one thing only, tell computer to retard ignition timing. Do you feel a hesitation when check engine light goes on?
Your rich condition may be a result of the CTS code because it'll never get in closed loop without it. Open Loop = Mmmm Fuel!

Does it always have a poor idle/hard start or only when the check engine light comes on?

I'm going to try to make this sound as simple as possible.

- Disconnect the wire connector from the coolant temp sensor
- Visually inspect it for corrosion/dirt/etc. Clean if necessary.
- Get 2 T-Pins and backprobe the connectors wires gently past the insulated coating and actually touching the conductive part of the wire. Example..
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/9789/backprobingterminal.jpg
- Now take a jumper wire and connect it together with the two T-pins.
- Turn you key in either accessories or ignition position and your temperature gauge on your dashboard should read highest temperature.

This indicates a bad coolant temperature sensor, replace it.

If you did this and your temperature gauge did not read maximum temperature, you have an open in your circuit wiring. How to check?

- Remove the jumper wire, leave the t-pins still connected.
- Use a self-powered circuit tester and poke the t-pins. One of them should brighten up the test light(the signal wire).. If it doesn't = the open is on the signal wires side of the circuit. If it does brighten up = the open is on the ground side of the circuit.

If you trace these 2 wires you'll find out they are both going right back to your Engine control module. You can backprobe those wires on your ECM harness the same way you did on the sensor connector. Again, it should read maximum temperature. If not, the transistor driver in your ECM is dead. Replace ECM.

Your knock sensor can be checked too. You'll have to find Nissans OEM resistance(ohm) specification for the sensor and use an ohmeter to test yours to compare readings. Also visually inspect wires going to the KS and check signal wire for continuity

im curious to know how the 2 pin CTS will make the gauge in the cluster read the highest temp?? considering the gauge works off a single wire sensor. the CTS is ONLY ready by the ECU.

[g6civcx]

im curious to know how the 2 pin CTS will make the gauge in the cluster read the highest temp?? considering the gauge works off a single wire sensor. the CTS is ONLY ready by the ECU.

That's what I would like to know also. The thermal transmitter is a single prong connector. The coolant temp sensor is a 2pin connector next to the thermal transmitter.

[redline racer510]

Yea that is kind of true there is a seperate sensor for the gauge cluster and one for the ecu.

[dubtastic]

Really? sorry I work on toyotas. They vary by manufacturer.

By bypassing the sensor you are directly grounding the circuit. Unfortunately you can't do that on a Nissan. You have to plug in a scan tool and see if the ECU is getting data to communicate with your gauge cluster. The CTS just interferes the amount of voltage sent by the ECM based on temperature.

The CTS is a temperature controlled variable resistor. The ECM sends 5v to the sensor. For example, At 110 deg coolant temperature the resistor bar is in a low position allowing all 5v to return back to the ECU. This is how the ECM knows it's cold. As your coolant gets hotter, the resistor in the CTS adjusts its position based on temperature. More resistance = Less voltage. So at 190 deg coolant temperature the ECM was only available to see a 1-2v return. This is how it knows it's hot.

The gauge cluster is not a sensor. It is only receiving information not returning it, so it only needs 1 wire. Again there is a lot of different ways of doing this and it varies, but this is to give you a general idea.


CTS <-- 0-5V --> ECU ?V---> GAUGE CLUSTER
[input] [module] [output]


You've replaced your CTS with a known good one, so you know that's not it right?
Did you ever check if your getting continuity at that single wire going to the CTS? In the accessories or run position it should be getting something, even a test light will brighten up.
Does your temperature gauge cluster show ANY kind of temperature change as your KA heats up?
Do your cooling fans come on?

I'll check if they have all data at work and get a wiring diagram of your 95 KA.

[japslapsilvia]

^^ no it is differnt for nissans
there are 2 sensors. one for the cluster and one for the ECU. they do not "talk" to each other. differnt circuits

to the OP. look for an FSM, IIRC there is a test procedure for the CTS. or an accetable range of ohms when engine is cold--warm--operating temp.

[dubtastic]

Ohwow really? I would of never guessed. thanks for telling me.

And yeah you are right if you put the CTS in a certain water temperature it will have specific ohm reading to determine if it good or not. That only tests the sensor though. He replaced it with a new one so it sounds more like a circuit issue.

So basically If you have a good CTS, and are getting 5+ volts at end of the single wire going to the CTS.. it'd narrow it down to the ECU :(

[redline racer510]

yES i DID TEST THE ECT USING THE METHOD SPECIFIED IN THE FSM AND IT TESTED GOOD SO I KNOW THE PROBLEM ISNT IN THE SENSOR BUT SOMEWHERE IN THE WIRING. MY PROBLEM RIGHT NOW IS HOW TO MAKE SURE THE PROBLEM IS WITH-IN THE WIRING OF THE ECT OR IF IT IS SOMETHING ELSE.
dUBTASTIC THE STATEMENT GIVEN BY JAPSLAPSILVIA IS KNOWN TO BE TRUE THE ECT IS FOR THE ECM. HOW DO I TEST THE WIRING GOING TO THE ECT?

[Rabboni]

Do you own a DMM/DVOM? The most accurate way to test the wiring is to unplug the ECT and the PCM connectors and put leads at the ECT connector and at the corresponding PCM connector pin and see how much resistance there is. Ive seen specs as high as 15 to 30 ohms resistance as acceptable, but as long as resistance is low your good. After that you need to test for a short to ground by moving one lead from the connector to a known good ground. there should be no continuity to ground with both connectors unplugged. Repeat for the other wire and that should be it.

[Bigsyke]

How do you know code 34 wont increase fuel load?

Do you know the last time the CTS was replaced? Even for good measure, buy a new one. Put a 1meg resistor on the KS harness. The knock sensor code wont have an effect on your idle or starting conditions. Most of the hard starting/idle issues ive seen on my nissans are a vacuum leak somewhere, this is why yanking the emissions is the 1st thing I do.

[japslapsilvia]

How do you know code 34 wont increase fuel load?

Do you know the last time the CTS was replaced? Even for good measure, buy a new one. Put a 1meg resistor on the KS harness. The knock sensor code wont have an effect on your idle or starting conditions. Most of the hard starting/idle issues ive seen on my nissans are a vacuum leak somewhere, this is why yanking the emissions is the 1st thing I do.

OP said that CTS was replaced.

the CTS can/will cause all sorts of problems...idle and start.

[redline racer510]

i actually replaced it then went back to the original knowing that it is still good it got soething like 2.143 ohms at room temperature so it IS within specs it is just the wiring that I presume is [email protected]
Rabboni i dont understand the term PCM is it short for
Power Control Module orPowertrain Control Module (http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Powertrain+Control+Module)?

[dubtastic]

they all refer to the computer module. PCM is GM's. I think ECU is Nissan. It's all the same don't let it confuse you. Check for continuity and short to ground the way Rabboni explained to check your wiring.

[mxexux]

Do you own a DMM/DVOM? The most accurate way to test the wiring is to unplug the ECT and the PCM connectors and put leads at the ECT connector and at the corresponding PCM connector pin and see how much resistance there is. Ive seen specs as high as 15 to 30 ohms resistance as acceptable, but as long as resistance is low your good. After that you need to test for a short to ground by moving one lead from the connector to a known good ground. there should be no continuity to ground with both connectors unplugged. Repeat for the other wire and that should be it.


^^Don't do this. 15-30 ohms is NOT acceptable.

Here is an easier and more acurate way of testing the wires goining to the sensor:

-Set DVM to DC voltage
-Disconnect ECT sensor
-Negative lead of DVM on chassis ground or negative attery terminal
-Positive lead of DVM to power wire for sensor (the lavender/orange wire)

You should get pretty close to 5 volts with the key in the on position. If not then there is an open or high resistance in the wire.

-Set DVM to reisistance
-Disconnect ECT sensor
-Negative lead of DVM on chassis ground or negative battery terminal
-Positive lead of DVM to ground wire for sensor (the black wire)

You should get close to 0 ohms with the key in the on position. If you get anything more than .5 ohms it means there is high resistance in the ground wire. If you get infinite resistance it means there is an open in the ground wire.

Good luck.

[dubtastic]

The easiest way for you to find out if the ECM is getting a signal from the CTS is to go Autozone and ask to borrow a scan tool. ODBII > Engine Data> Cooltant Temp: ?

If its only reading maximum temp, it's shorted to ground. If it's only reading minimum or NO temp.. it's an open circuit.

^^Don't do this. 15-30 ohms is NOT acceptable.

Here is an easier and more acurate way of testing the wires goining to the sensor:

-Set DVM to DC voltage
-Disconnect ECT sensor
-Negative lead of DVM on chassis ground or negative attery terminal
-Positive lead of DVM to power wire for sensor (the lavender/orange wire)

You should get pretty close to 5 volts with the key in the on position. If not then there is an open or high resistance in the wire.

-Set DVM to reisistance
-Disconnect ECT sensor
-Negative lead of DVM on chassis ground or negative battery terminal
-Positive lead of DVM to ground wire for sensor (the black wire)

You should get close to 0 ohms with the key in the on position. If you get anything more than .5 ohms it means there is high resistance in the ground wire. If you get infinite resistance it means there is an open in the ground wire.

Good luck.

I agree with everything but the bold. You sure about that:confused:
Correct me if I'm wrong:

Checking resistance is ALWAYS done in SERIES and power completely OFF.
Running the negative lead to battery ground would only be accurate if the CTS was grounded by the battery. Coolant temp sensors are either internally grounded or ECM grounded... So your checking it in a parallel connection which is never accurate for resistance.

Measuring resistance with the power ON is never accurate and can damage the meter. If you want to do it with the power on, do a voltage drop instead.

[redline racer510]

We tried using the obd scanner at my friends smog shop and we couldnt get the voltage to be viewed. I am going to try mxexux method and see if i get anything.

[mxexux]

Dubtastic, you are right. But since the ECT is grounded through the ECU you have to check it with the key on and ECU powered. Also the ECU is grounded to the chassis which means that ECT is also grounded to the chassis. All electrical components of the car are eventually tied into the negative battery terminal through the ECU or chassis because the battery negative is grounded to the chassis.

I do like your suggestion on checking voltage drop but I was just trying to suggest doing these checks the easiest and fastest way. The DVM is in no danger of being damaged because the ground circuit is being tested. Besides most DVMs have a pretty high internal resistance and fuses to protect them.

[redline racer510]

O, I forgot how would I check the ground going to the ECT?
Never mind , DUHHHHH I feel stupid lol
BTW I have been driving the car for the past couple of days and with the exception of very hard starts and running excessively rich and wanting to die it runs OK,lol the only thing is i have to reset ecu to get it started sometimes.

[Pacman]

1. Replace your thermostat.
2. Replace your knock sensor/pigtail.
3. Reset computer.
4. Have a (root)beer

Enough said.

[Rabboni]

I didnt say that my way of testing the wires was the easiest way to do it, but it is definitely the most accurate way to do it. It removes all variables from the testing process and assures that if anything is found out of spec the wires are what is causing it. You can do it the other ways mentioned and you will be fine. Also, i know that 15 to 30 is unacceptable, that is why after i said that i said as long as resistance is low you will be fine.

[dubtastic]

I can respect that, it makes sense considering most people want the quick easy route to get the job done. I am thinking too technical sometimes.

I think this may be overlooked and is probably something simple. A lot of stuff can only act as an open. Be 100% sure the seensor connector is clean!

You forgot to answer a really important question, Are you getting 5v to the wire at the sensor connector???

If your not getting 5v, it's an open. You'll have to trace it down.. it's a pain the ass.

If you are getting 5v, and the scan tool does not recognize coolant temp. It really may be the ECM.

1. Replace your thermostat.
2. Replace your knock sensor/pigtail.
3. Reset computer.
4. Have a (root)beer

Enough said.

Knock sensor= $65
Thermostat= $20
Resetting Computer= 1-2 minutes of your life
Root Beer $1

Figuring out if the open is in the wiring or ECM.. priceless

[redline racer510]

Pacman I did replace the thermostat, from what is being said and what i have learned it is impossible for the knock sensor to cause a rich condition but it can be causing my hardstarting and hesitation.

[redline racer510]

lol root beer sounds, good but where did you find the knock sensor for $60 all the places i know of want atleast 120 for it. LOL,dubtastic i like your mastercard commercial style,lol

[redline racer510]

OK , now were getting somewhere. After using a multimeter to check out the wiring that goes into the ECT i got the following:

BL/O wire(power)= I am getting 4.89 volts so I would just say its getting 5 volts.
BL(ground)= Using the ohmeter put one of the probes on the negative battery terminal and the other probe on the ECT ground wire and got 102 ohms resistance.

So after testing i could confidently say there is a break in the ground wire.

Can anyone chime in on this to verify that there is a break in the ground going to the ect?

[blueshark123]

im not to smart about ELECTRICAL CRAP but wouldnt u just be able to run a external wire from ecu to ect and if it doesnt throw the code ur wiring is bad.

[dubtastic]

BL/O wire(power)= I am getting 4.89 volts so I would just say its getting 5 volts.
BL(ground)= Using the ohmeter put one of the probes on the negative battery terminal and the other probe on the ECT ground wire and got 102 ohms resistance.

So after testing i could confidently say there is a break in the ground wire.

Can anyone chime in on this to verify that there is a break in the ground going to the ect? :aw:
Yup that's it.

Check/clean the pin terminals at the ECM harness connector. You'll need to find a harness diagram to find out which one is exactly the return wire for ECT ground. It might of gotten loose or dirty.

The wiring routed to the ECM is insulated pretty good but there could be a chance of it being open. It's a pain in the ass to find.

EDIT:I found a diagram of your wiring for your engine.
If your temperature gauge does not work at all either, it's that splice/connection where the ground wire splits up and takes two separate routes to ground.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3783/ka24de.th.jpg

(http://img689.imageshack.us/i/ka24de.jpg/)
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1995/EC.pdf
GO TO PAGE 99/229. YOU HAVE A COMPLETE FLOW CHART TO FOLLOW
ALSO ON 98/229 IS THE ECM HARNESS CONNECTOR DIAGRAM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1995/EC.pdf)
(http://img689.imageshack.us/i/ka24de.jpg/)

[redline racer510]

One thing that i noticed through the FSM is that the Crankshaft position sensor, EGR temp sensor, intake temp sensor, TPS all share that same ground is it possible to just splice into the existing grounds instead of trying to figure out where the broken wire is at?

[Rabboni]

I dont know... It grounds through the ecm, and there isnt really any way to prove there isnt any internal resistance built into the ecm itself. I would test the wire by disconnecting the ecm connector and testing between the connectors at the pin terminals. That will prove, without a doubt, that the resistance is in the wire itself. The fsm for my '96 says pin 1 on the ECT connector (Black Wire) to pin 50 on the ecm connector is the ground wire. Also that splice you see is to send a engine temp to the automatic transmission control unit, so that wont be there unless your car has an A/T.

[redline racer510]

I think the statement "Also that splice you see is to send a engine temp to the automatic transmission control unit, so that wont be there unless your car (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/293431-knock-sensor-going-crazy-2.html#) has an A/T." is not true. There is no where in the fsm that says the ground to pinout #50 is used to send engine temp to the TCU. Why would the TCU need to know engine temps? Wouldnt you think they would need it on manual trans cars as well if this was true? If you have proof I apologize in advance but that statement does not make sense to me. Also I was refering to hooking up the black wire(Ground) on the ect, to another sensor that shares the same wire that goes to pinout #50.

[dubtastic]

Almost every electric controlled Automatic transmission has two temperature inputs. The main one is Transmission Oil Temp. In case this sensor ever fails, then the Auto Trans Module has the Coolant Temperature sensor to give it an approximate idea of what is going on temperature wise. This way it can still decide when to make those late/hard shifts to help temperature rise and prevent damage to the clutch packs. The ECT/CTS is also a really important input for the Torque Converter clutch.

A manual trans obviously doesn't depend on hydraulic fluids for shifts, therefore it wouldn't need to know the temperature of it gear lube.

[redline racer510]

Besides the point there is no proof that pinout 50 goes to TCM. What do you think about hooking up the black wire(Ground) on the ect, to another sensor that shares the same wire that goes to pinout #50?

[dubtastic]

If they share the exact same pin terminal (#50) I guess splicing the ECT's ground wire into another sensor's ground wire could work. I've never seen it done that way but I don't see why not all your doing is bypassing the open and returning it to where it's suppose to go. Give it a try let us know..

[Rabboni]

The pin 50 i was referring to is only for the ECM connector. Im looking at the FSM right now for my 1996 and it says that pin 51 is the power supply for the ECT and pin 50 is the return (ground). The splice in the return goes to pin 35 of the tcm for engine temp signal. This all doesnt matter though, unless his car is an automatic transmission. Do not try to bypass the ground to anywhere else except to the propper pin on the ecm connector, otherwise the ecm wont be getting a temp signal. The picture Im looking at in the fsm doesnt show anything going to pin 50 of the ecm except the ECT ground.

[redline racer510]

Rabboni my car isnt a 96 it is a 95 the wiring is different, dont believe me look at the fsm for 95 engine wiring schematics, regardless there are only 4 wires that go to the TCU 95-98(24,29,30,33) these wires are seperate and are specifically for the tcu having nothing to do with wires 50,51. These 4 wires can theoretically send ect signal to the tcu, but a wire from the ect going directly to the tcu is highly improbable. I believe the wires your are reffering to are the ones listed above not 51,50. Also there is nothing in the fsm that I have(chilton) that gives any insight to pinout 35 on niether 95 or 96 model 240sx A/T.

Response to dubtastic: Your right I really dont see any reason to hack up the entire harness to find the short/open circuit when I could do just a simple bypass. I will let you guys know in a couple of days if this works, weather permitting(been cold and rainy for past couple days and not feeling to well, swine/bird flu FTL,lol)

[redline racer510]

never mind

[redline racer510]

Rabboni I would like to apologize for my ignorance and quick judgment. I overlooked your fsm(IMHO is like 100 times better) and you actually reminded me of a reason why my transmission randomly likes to shift hard and sometimes slip. But yes i will be testing the continuity of the ecm #50 ground and replacing the wire that goes to the ect and also the tcu.

[Rabboni]

No problem dude. No offense, but the chilton books are crap. Ive gotten so much false info from them that I just threw all mine away. If you look further up on this page dubtastic pasted a pic that is the exact pic that i have in my fsm for the ect wiring. You can click on it and enlarge it to get the propper Nissan wiring diagram for your ect.

[redline racer510]

Oh i forgot do you guys have any tips on repairing broken circuits before I start, you know other things than removeing your negative battery terminal?

[s13pignose]

You can do the resistor trick if your throwing the knock sensor code 34. Find the sub harness, it runs underneath the intake manifold and plus into the knock sensor on one end, and the other end plugs into the connector shielded wire going to the ecu. In my own problems I've read code 34 can come from faulty sensor or a break in that shielded wire. So I took the resistor bent into the shape of a staple and plugged it into the connector of the shielded wire. I had already cleared the knock sensor code, so once I started the car after the resistor, I would know I still had a problem if the code came up again. It didn't so as far as I know I got lucky (kinda) and it was just the sensor and not a break in the shielded wire.

I forget what ohm resistor to use, but it's been covered alot on here. Hope that helps. Oh yeah you can run the resistor or replace the sensor, only thing with out the sensor you have no timing retard to my knowledge..so I run 93 octane all the time, but I just have bolt-ons and never advance my timing by the dizzy anyway.

Anyone feel free to correct any wrong statements, just speaking from personal experience

[redline racer510]

I believe it was a 1 mega ohm resistor, I think?

[redline racer510]

also what guage wire is used? 22 or 24 guage?

[redline racer510]

UPDATE
I checked the circuit going to the ECT and it is not causing the codes to be thrown. I have continuity and 0 resistance in the ground wire and 5v in the power wire. I am really running out of patience and thinking about just taking it to a mechanic. this thing is pissing me off.

[redline racer510]

I checked the ground at pin 50 on the ecu and it was good, checked continuity.

[redline racer510]

checked continuity between ect and ecu and continuity exhists.

[steve shadows]

BUY AND AEM UNIT, buy a base map

problem solved, and you'll have an instant 15 whp

[project-D180]

from what im gettin from your codes the ecu was think you thermastat wasnt openin so your car wasnt warming up or over heating and po325 you was havin some sort of random misfire some where,...so pretty much your temps inside the motor was a lil to high so the ecu probally started adding fuel to get the cylinder temps down so u dont warp,melt parts...also check your wiring goin 2 your ect,egr,tps...oooh how you test to see if your knock sensor is good out it in a vice,connect your multi meter up to the connector pins and hit the side of the vice with a hammer and you should get a reading of a 1-5v maybe more depends on how hard u hit the vice..the knock sensor produces its on voltage from the vibration thats y if your motor is detonating it'll sense it n pull timing and the ecu will add fuel to stop the detonation

[project-D180]

check ya timing n your ignition system make sure ya plugs wires and coil r good,when was the last time u changed that fuel filter could be clogged n cause a similair issue 2 what your gettin

[project-D180]

if you had a scan tool where you could what all of your sensors you could pin point what you needed 2 check while it was data loggin

[redline racer510]

replaced ect,thermostat,cap/rotor plugs sparkplugs. doubt that it would be egr tps since they would start throwing codes. how could it be my fuel filter if my cylinders are getting flooded with fuel?

[project-D180]

if it was clogged i said it could cause the misfire condition

[redline racer510]

you didnt specify what was clogged: IACV,EGR,fuel filter,etc