Not getting spark?

[xBtony]

K. so as title says, my single cam isnt getting spark. I have no clue why. everything i know of is pluged in, wired up, all fuses and stuff ok. Im just really lost at where to look next. any help would be nice. thnaks.

[Ceepo]

is the Ignitor good? its located on the driver side fender, if you have a freind with one swap it out and see if its that, also check the cap, rotor, they sometimes get dirty and not work anymore, they arent expensive to replace(get better power, gas milege ect if you replace it) i am gonna say the Ignitor is bad though...

Bunch of my freinds would always unplug it to mess with me so my car wouldnt start, good times lol...

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!BTzN09gBWk~$(KGrHgoH-DQEjlLlu3hQBKKV9uzz5Q~~_35.JPG

that is what it looks like...

[FRoSt415]

first make sure u got proper voltage from the battery. if u have a test light or a power probe start by checking down the spark line. check all plugs and see if its all or just a few. if its all check the Ignitor and see if that is functioning properly. i recommend to everyone to get a FSM for your car. It helps outline what you need to check within the circuit. if u already have one great and get to work

[xBtony]

Ahhh! Thanks guys! I'll check the ignitor. prolly bad. lol. now i just gotta find a friend with one..HAHA! Is there anyway to know if its bad without swaping it?

and i should be getting proper voltage from the battery. the car turns over fine. just no spark.

[Ceepo]

See if any power is going out of it test light, volt meter, i have never had to deal with that but i would have a freind turn it over while i had a test light on it to see if it is spittin anything out...

[xBtony]

^Good idea before i start replacing stuff. lol.

[xBtony]

Bumping this back up. i replaced the ignitor thinggy. (mentioned above) i was getting power to it but not from it. im still not getting spark. asked a mechanic and he sai it could be the lil points on on the distributer cap that the shaft thing strikes. what are those called again? And where can i get em?

[Rabboni]

You mean the cap itself? The only thing you can do with that is replace the cap and rotor, but if those were bad you would have been getting performance problem way before you got no spark to all cylinders. Did you check if the triggering device has any output?

[xBtony]

^What do u mean by performance problem? Because the car has yet to run. at all. lol

[Rabboni]

I just mean that if the cap and rotor went bad you wouldnt lose spark to all cylinders at the same time... unless it was like completely blown up instantly. If the cap and rotor went bad you would first see like a weak spark, hard starting, rough idle, random misfires, followed by constant single cylinder misfire, then more misfires, until it would just quit. It wouldnt cause all cylinders no spark at the same time.

[xBtony]

^aHH. I get ya. Well idk because like i said, the car hasnt ran, like ever. lol. so idk. im still lost. lol. Whats the triggering device and how would i check it?

[dubtastic]

Have a basic understanding of your ignition circuit

HowStuffWorks "How Automobile Ignition Systems Work" (http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm)

You have primary voltage (12v battery supply going to coil) and secondary voltage (60v spark supply by windings in ignition coil). You gotta make sure your getting primary voltage before you go any further and throw parts.

That plug wire going to the center of the distributor housing is what brings voltage to the distributor. Buy a spark tester and check for spark there as you crank the engine. Reply back..

This shouldn't be a trail and error procedure. You don't want to replace the distributor, cap and rotor, ignition coil, ignition module, and plug wires only to find out you have a bad crankshaft position sensor.

Good luck, take it to a tech.

[Rabboni]

Like ^^^ Said, you need to trace the circuit back to where voltage is lost. The triggering device on the ignition system is most likely the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. That i dont think you can test without an oscilloscope. You can still do a visual inspection on it and make sure the wires aren't cut and are still plugged in.

[Rabboni]

Im not super familiar with the single cams ignition, but the triggering device is usually the Crank Shaft Position sensor. It tells the PCM where the engine is at in its revolution so it can trigger the voltage to the primary coil and induce a spark. This you cant test without an oscilloscope though. Easiest way to help diagnose is to start at the end (spark plugs) and work your way backwards to find out where voltage is lost.