Bad news. Rebuild or buy new

[moses]

I doubt any of you remember me but I am the guy that lost compression racing the corvette 8 months ago. I just got back from Iraq and I pulled the head off the motor and did not like what I saw.
This is the #1 piston
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1257446772.jpg
This is all of them
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1257446783.jpg
This is the head of #1 piston
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1257446884.jpg
I dont really know how this has happened yet. I know it was detonation so I am guessing it was either fuel or ignition. Since I didnt mess with timing i am guessing it was an injector or something. I dont know what to do with the motor just yet. Either I can get a new one or rebuild this one. If I rebuild I want to make it unbreakable. Does any one know how much it would be to rebuild it. I was thinking of doing the 9000 rpm head which is on the nico site and just having a strong balanced bottom end.

[fliprayzin240sx]

There is no such thing as unbreakable...it will all come down to tuning.

[moses]

I got a aem ems now. I should be good

[fliprayzin240sx]

Cost of rebuild will come down to what parts you use and who does the rebuild. I spent roughly $3k on labor roughly including retune, between rebuilding the bottom end and swapping engines out.

Just reference of what I got done as far as the engine:
GT3582R
PFC D-jetro
840cc SARD injectors
SARD FPR
Tomei Pro Cams 272
Tomei Valve springs
Tomei Valves
Tomei RAS
Tomei Solid Lifters
Tomei Headgasket
Greddy 87mm pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP head studs
ARP Main studs
Nismo bearings

[om3ga]

rtv on your turbo mani.

[moses]

Oh yeah. I made some money so it's tomei time. I got everything but the engine internals. I'm guessin like 2500 with labor. Hopefully. what do you think?

[moses]

How does this list sound. This should give me a 9000 rpm head with the bottom end to hold it
Tomei 270 solid cams
tomei solid lifter with test shims and guides
Brian crower springs and retainers
new valve stems
cp 86.5/8.5:1 pistons
eagle rods with arp bolts
And a front and rear main seal
I already have a headgasket and studs
this is all just over 2000 with just parts
is there anything else I should include? I don't know if I should get bearings yet or valves but I guess that will wait till I break it down.

[slider2828]

Of course get bearings.... you are ripping the entire motor out and redoing the top and bottom end. No reason not to get main rod bearings, all arp bolts, new oil pump, based on the damage, you need to check your valves, I think with parts and labor 7 to 8k for parts and labor without tune is about right... Just get everything done.... Also you should look at block condition whether how large overbore and sleeving it if you have to bore a lot...

Weren't you on the GT2871R thread, had awesome numbers and then detonated by blowing up spark plug #1 and the motor going dead? Lol.... oh wellz...

Don't skimp labor is already there, redoing it again because of a thrown bearing or something is totally not worth it...

[moses]

Yeah that was me. I just talked to the mechanic and he said I have to wait to buy bearings to measure it. I didn't think about an oil pump. And now I just found out I have to leave in 2 weeks for the military eventhough I just got back. It's puerto Rico so I'm not that mad. Is there anything else I should do well I'm in there. I think I am going to balance the crankshaft too. Thanks for the input

[ericb382]

If you are going with solid pivots you will deffinately want to balance the rotating assembly (not just crank) otherwise you cant safely rev high enough to need them.

[moses]

I guess I will do that toO

[slider2828]

Personalyl Moses its just a lot of money to have a high revving engine... Its just not worth the money and really you aren't making too much HP... Just got with a normal build cause building a high revving engine safely requires a lot of $$$$.... IMHO its not worth it...

Man you getting shipped off again?? I heard about this over news about people who just get back and had to get shipped out without getting checked for PTSD and stuff like that... I heard that guy from the Fort (Whatever) who killed 12 soldiers on base, was like resenting that and even veterans complained about that....

[Spikuh]

It was Fort Hood and I personally think there was more to it than just that.

[moses]

I guess I got some time to think about it but I just thought it would be cool. I would be mad if I was gettin sent back to Iraq, but I am going to do
missions in puerto Rico. It can't be that bad. It sucks I'll miss Christmas again but I'm starting to get use to it.

Quick question, would it matter if I buy a red top block if I have a kouki s13 motor harness? I wouldnt think it would matter but I might as well ask.

[slider2828]

Yeah I think that guy was getting sent back to Iraq... funny thing is I think he is Iranian?

Nah the block is the same I believe... Almost 100% the same....

[ericb382]

Quick question, would it matter if I buy a red top block if I have a kouki s13 motor harness? I wouldnt think it would matter but I might as well ask.

Really the only difference is the black top will have 54c stamped on the side and the retop will have 52F, aside from that there are no differences that I'm aware of.

[moses]

Do you guys think it would be eaisier to take out the motor byitself or pull it with the tranny. This is what it looks like
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1257982298.jpg

[johngriff]

Easy now that the head is off, but you still are going to want to get the tranny out, so might as well do both at once.

Also.

Don't rebuild that.

Turn that into a coffee table or something, there is enough chewed up metal in the oil system now, I would never use that block or head again, and possibly think about having the turbo chra rebuilt.

Nico head is gay as balls.

SR20DET bottom + SR20VE Head = Bee's Knees.

Mazworx might have their kit ready, not sure.

And yeah, doesn't matter how "strong" the material is made out of, if your tune is retarded, the material will break down anyways.

[moses]

Why would it be in my oil system if my headgasket didn't blow and it was only in the combustion chamber? I don't think very much or any at all made it past the piston but I'll check when I take it out.

[johngriff]

looking at the chewed up piston, its like it has to have.

I did that to my ca, took it apart, and found lots of metal in the block, but a ca block is easy to clean, so I could rebuild.

Its more of a rule, metal in oil system in SR = Never trust that block again.

[fcdrifter20]

Easy now that the head is off, but you still are going to want to get the tranny out, so might as well do both at once.

Also.

Don't rebuild that.

Turn that into a coffee table or something, there is enough chewed up metal in the oil system now, I would never use that block or head again, and possibly think about having the turbo chra rebuilt.

Nico head is gay as balls.

SR20DET bottom + SR20VE Head = Bee's Knees.

Mazworx might have their kit ready, not sure.

And yeah, doesn't matter how "strong" the material is made out of, if your tune is retarded, the material will break down anyways.


this happened to me on a ka-t. i took it apart and had metal whr thr shouldnt be, just got anothr motor. take it aprt and take a look at it first beofre u make a decison on wthr to buy anothr motor or not

[moses]

Delete found it

[moses]

Finally took apart my motor and I swear it was the most fun I have had in a while. A buddy helped me pull it and I did the rest. http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1258690498.jpg
I'm tired and made a couple of mistakes but I really feel like I accomplished something. As for the oil system being contaminated I can't tell one bit. I'm no expert but all the bearings are good and I don't really see any major scratches anywhere. The upper oil pan looks like it had some sludge on it but I figured it was normal after sitting for 8 months. Man I toasted this piston
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1258690500.jpg
I'll take to an engine shop tomorrow and see what he says. How can I tell if it is still an ok motor?

[surge s14]

the machine shop should tell you

[moses]

Just an update. The injector test came back and all passed like they were new. So I guess now it is up to wiring. I am going to try to shoot wires and see if one is weak or broke and if that checks good I am stuck. I don't know what else to check. It doesn't make sense since I was running it hard all day but nothing is impossible.
Also a friend of mine said the reason I lost compression in all cylinders is because that one cylinder didn't have a seal so it created a vacuum for the other cylinder which took away from there compression. Does this make sense?

[kognition]

If you do plan to track the car in the future, consider WPC metal treament (http://www.wpctreatment.com/) on the internals. This will reduce your friction dramatically and bring your rpms up quicker. And lower engine temps. The top time attack teams use it.

I guess I got some time to think about it but I just thought it would be cool. I would be mad if I was gettin sent back to Iraq, but I am going to do
missions in puerto Rico. It can't be that bad. It sucks I'll miss Christmas again but I'm starting to get use to it.

Quick question, would it matter if I buy a red top block if I have a kouki s13 motor harness? I wouldnt think it would matter but I might as well ask.

[moses]

Well I already opted for some coat that is suppose to protect the piston and head and keep it cooler. I also can't see the website because of my phone so can u explain it?

[kognition]

It's shot peening with a super fine media. Finer than standard shot peening media. It hardens the surface, and reduces friction almost in half. It is the equivalent of a silver bullet to a Werewolf. If you want to see what teams use
this process, see who WPC follows on Twitter (http://twitter.com/WPCtreatment/following).
You can get ceramic coatings on your piston heads still, but i would do that after you get your parts back from WPC. They have a shop in Los Angeles now.


Well I already opted for some coat that is suppose to protect the piston and head and keep it cooler. I also can't see the website because of my phone so can u explain it?

[moses]

Alright I just got back from the engine shop and he said that the block was cleaned and everything was good with the block. He just has to mil the block and the head a little more. The head needed 2 valves. Now this guy is one of the best in Arkansas and builds strong v-8's and sprint cars that rev to 9000 rpm so he does have experience. I just want to ask you guys your opinion on this stuff with a couple of questions.
1.Does $2289.00 sound reasonable for all the head and valve job work and block work (assemble short block) with pistons and rods, balance everything, and coating the piston and head with the protective stuff?
2. He said if he balances everything I won't need the ATI crank pulley and I should just get the aluminum pulley or stay stock because the vibrations won't affect it? I wanted the ATI one but if he said it's not really worth it I'll get the light one that is stock size.
3. He is going off the sr20de specs for clearences. Is that ok?
Thanks for your help guys. I just don't really trust a lot of people in Arkansas. I am going to go to Texas to get it tuned.

[moses]

Moved it to engine tech