rb20 vs sr20 swap.

[geartech]

Ok here goes. I've searched this about a dozen time and still cant find a straight answer to the question.
I am looking at 2 1995 240sx se's one has a rb20 in it with minor mods (exh).
the other is a sr20 swap with exh and greddy i/c piping.
I mainly want the car as a daily driver that makes good power 280-300 whp. (or can make those numbers with some mods.)
not going to drift it. just want a sleeper.
the only concern is the added weight on the front wheels with the rb but then again I'm not drifting the car. Any ideas or comments would help this has been bugging me for days now.
thanks

[nathanong87]

what model sr20?

[enkei2k]

you should search harder...

with that said, go SR. more parts readily available for cheap. plus you already decided by saying

the added weight on the front wheels with the rb

SR's can make 300 easy, bigger turbo, injectors,etc... and tune.

[tricky_ab]

with that said, go SR. more parts readily available for cheap.

SR's can make 300 easy, bigger turbo, injectors,etc... and tune.

This in a nut shell. You should listen to this man...

[thetopcow]

Ok here is my thoughts.

RB20det - the power is spread over more cylinders making it easier on the engine
- this engine sucks up a ton of space, for not much reward
- Heavier, I think it is a steel block(correct me if wrong)

SR20det - tons of mods
- more room in the engine bay
- more mechanics comfortable working on this engine
- most problems can be searched and found here on zilvia

[B-spec]

RB20 is actually an iron block.

SR has a much larger aftermarket base, and knowledge base within the US. This makes locating parts a breeze.

If you're going through the trouble to swap in a RB, go with a larger displacement engine.

[lazysk8er2]

yea with an rb20 you get a 6 cyl with none of the benefits. parts are harder to come by. i think its an iron block not steel.

sr20 is more abundant. info is more readily available. parts are probably cheaper. its lighter. has usdm cross references with n/a motor

[Chernobyl]

Both engines will make 300whp with about the same amount of modification. The RB will just be a bit heavier while doing it.

For a daily driver, I can't imagine there is much difference.

[DALAZ_68]

i say buy neither and save your money for something better...if cant figure out what engine you want by yourself then i doubt you would be able to take care of it by yourself which will result in other threads like this...

[imotion s14]

I'd swap a GA16DET

[s13 @ fullboost]

I would do the RB just to be different and it would sound sick. Just do it right and it will be reliable and make a decent amount of power spend your money wisely

[g6civcx]

i say buy neither and save your money for something better...if cant figure out what engine you want by yourself then i doubt you would be able to take care of it by yourself which will result in other threads like this...

Harsh but true.

[CrimsonRockett]

I would do the RB just to be different and it would sound sick. Just do it right and it will be reliable and make a decent amount of power spend your money wisely

Different how?

All SR/RB motor swaps are played out, and if you want a motor swap just for the "sound"....:duh:

If you're that set on doing a motor swap, go with something easier with crazy simple parts access. The last thing you want is for something to go wrong and have to wait 2+ weeks to special order that part(compared to SR's and easy parts access). Hell, a lot of local Nissan dealerships even stock SR parts because of their popularity.

If it were up to me, I wouldn't run either.

VQ would be my personal choice.

[geartech]

Lets see, been building Porsche performance cars for 20 plus years , I think I can take care of the car. My question was simple. I wanted to know what people on the the fourms here like better. the sr20 or the rb20.
To the others that actully put some good feed back out there thank you. Thats all I needed to know about the motors. I like the smaller package of the sr and parts avail. Just wasn't sure if there were and benifits to the rb20 over it because 2 liters is pretty much 2 liters

[chibo]

VQ would be my personal choice.
Ding ding. Shit is the future of 240 swaps.

[lazysk8er2]

if you wanted a comparison you could easily google it its been covered for many years no point in making a thread about peoples opinions.

RB20DET Vs. SR20DET Blacktop: General Chat: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121565)

oh and here theres like an endless list
rb20 vs sr20 - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=rb20+vs+sr20&rlz=1R2ADFA_enUS335&aq=f&oq=&aqi)=

if youve been building cars like u say you have for the last 20 years then i think its time to update with the ages of the internet and use search engines.

plus if your buying either car it depends which one was built better and price differences.

engine differences doesnt matter its quality your looking for.

[geartech]

VQ would be nice, I loved the one in my G35 coupe. Should have never gotten rid of the car.
My be a project for another car. Now I just want something to drive for a while and build what I want later when I can get rid of the 2 other project cars I have going.

[ericcastro]

I personally prefer driving a RB over an SR anyday.

The gearing is awsome, the 3rd gear pull past 90mph is great !!!

The progressive power feeling you get out of a straight six, the low end torque and the instant power!


Sr's of course are easier to get parts for. but coming from someone who has driven alot of them on and off the track, the RB is a much nicer engine to drive.
Just get wider tires and a bigger break kit up front.

just my opinion from experience.

[Chernobyl]

I would do the RB just to be different and it would sound sick.

Probably two of the most pointless reasons to do one swap over another.

That being said, here are the benefits of RB over SR, as I see them:
-RB is a little smoother as inline sixes are better balanced engines than fours.
-T3-flange turbos bolt on to the stock exhaust manifold; makes for a little cheaper upgrades.
-Top-Feed injectors stock, again, cheaper upgrades (although you need 2 more than the SR)
-Iron block if you're looking to make tons of power (not that the SR aluminum block is worse)

That's all I can think of. There are just as many negatives as positives. SR and RB are both fine engines.

[Chernobyl]

the low end torque and the instant power

You must be talking about RB25. My RB20 is just as gutless as an SR when off-boost.

[geartech]

THanks for the answers. I now have 2 of these cars, a 95 with the rb20 and a 93 with a ka motor. I think I'll do the sr swap into the 93 car just to have 1 of each and then maybe sell the 95 when the other is done.
Great thing is both cars came with spare eng,trans, ecu and harness.
so now I have a spare rb20 complete. spare ka dual cam motor complete.

[Ceepo]

I just drove my buddies cefiro with a rb20 in it, it was pretty fun, has a holset he351 turbo on it, he is boosting about 18lbs with some 550 injectors, and a safc tune, his last dyno(with 270cc injectors) made 288hp and 250ft/lbs. I personally would get a sr20det, i dont understand why you would get a rb20det with the same displacement as the sr20det, if your gonna get an rb go with a rb25/26...

[iheartmysil80]

A JZX100 swap! but an SR20 will do.....



"That'll do little pig... That'll do...."

[fckillerbee]

KA-T!!!!! parts always available, motors are dirt cheap, killer torque! mad sleaper! weighs as much as the ka in the car now hahaha.

[ericcastro]

You must be talking about RB25. My RB20 is just as gutless as an SR when off-boost.

actually, i may be a little off cause i was just in a RB 25 the other night.
made me consider it as a easy engine to get great power out of.

and if your running huge rims anyways, it will make up for the understeer, lol.

but the RB20 is so much fun too, that gearing is so cool when your driving.

of course, the SR might be an easier engine to own in your area.

[Ali 556]

Non of the above,

RB20 Is A 6-cyl SR...No torque..nothing,

Sr's Are ok to some sort with the B I G Aft-market parts around the US...If you Ask Me,

Stay away from VQ crap...you will not able to run the engine with the fucked up wiring and the crap NATS system,

Crazy And HUGE power for dd,

LSx swapped 240sx (headers - Catback and stock every thing else you are looking for 330-350whp with TONS of tourq.

2JZ-GTE swaped 240sx's (granted not the best $$$/HP choice) but a stock JDM 2JZ-gte with US-Spec cams @ 10 PSI made 318whp and 300 ft-lbs,

If not..go with SR

[drift freaq]

Non of the above,

RB20 Is A 6-cyl SR...No torque..nothing,

Sr's Are ok to some sort with the B I G Aft-market parts around the US...If you Ask Me,

Stay away from VQ crap...you will not able to run the engine with the fucked up wiring and the crap NATS system,

Crazy And HUGE power for dd,

LSx swapped 240sx (headers - Catback and stock every thing else you are looking for 330-350whp with TONS of tourq.

2JZ-GTE swaped 240sx's (granted not the best $$$/HP choice) but a stock JDM 2JZ-gte with US-Spec cams @ 10 PSI made 318whp and 300 ft-lbs,

If not..go with SR

LOL The RB20 is not a torque less engine though its less than a 25 which is a torque monster. Though I will say, if someone is going to go RB, its all about the 25 or the 26.

As far as your comments about VQ's go, which rock did you just crawl out from under?

You seriously need to read up on the fact that actually the whole NATS BCM deal has been sorted i.e. you do not need to run them anymore. Oh and if you do that the wiring is easy. LOL

LSX swaps get costly, cool but costly.

2J swaps? If you want to be the cool different kid sure. Though with a nice selection of Nissan engines available to swap including 2 very good Nissan 6's (RB25 and RB26) why bother?

Seriously they guy asked about SR20 VS RB20. LOL He did not ask about putting a chevy engine in or Toyota engine in.

[ericcastro]

HE HAS TWO CHOICES !!!!!!!

READ !!

RB20 or SR20

he is looking at 2 different cars to purchase

[burninskulls0911]

ive had both

two rb's and one sr

after having an rb i hate the sr

the rb has more torque lower in the rpms
and the rb sounds better

[cobras89]

sr's can make a lot of horse power and still get good gas mileage for daily driving. i get 300miles at least on a full tank driving nice and not going into boost all the time

[nate29]

I would go sr unless u wanted to do a biger rb platform like 25 or 26.

[JVDSKYRINE]

I liked my RB20det. I put down 250whp stock everything except for intake and exhaust and fmic. It was fun and sounded hot! everyone knocks RB's but I bet almost no one knocking them has driven one. I have driven both sr and rb and the gearing is way different. RB i found first was super short almost useless and once you get higher in the gears it was a beast where sr's would die off. Also mine took a beating and kept running strong after 160,000km.

And it is not hard to find parts for RB's you guys just don't look in the right spots lol a skyline forum has loads of RB parts. And lots of them are interchangable if you knew anything about them you would know this. Also some stock GTR parts are a straight bolt on upgrade which can be had for cheap. Heads can be mated to bottom ends. Ie RB30, 25 bottoms.


And everyone is right RB's sound so nice! if my bro sees it maybe he can post a vid of how my car sounded. I love RB series engines which is why I am building one now.

[s13 @ fullboost]

ive had both

and the rb sounds better

See I wasn't the only one who thought so. Not trying to say it makes for a better motor but if I had to choose which one I would want to hear every day deff the RB and I have always been a big fan of straight six motors. I would also like to throw in if you do decide on the rb my first mod would be change the intake mani.


CrimsonRockett Quote:
Originally Posted by s13 @ fullboost http://zilvia.net/f/images/zilvia/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://zilvia.net/f/chat/284528-rb20-vs-sr20-swap-post3082958.html#post3082958)
I would do the RB just to be different and it would sound sick. Just do it right and it will be reliable and make a decent amount of power spend your money wisely

Different how?

All SR/RB motor swaps are played out, and if you want a motor swap just for the "sound"....:duh:

If you're that set on doing a motor swap, go with something easier with crazy simple parts access. The last thing you want is for something to go wrong and have to wait 2+ weeks to special order that part(compared to SR's and easy parts access). Hell, a lot of local Nissan dealerships even stock SR parts because of their popularity.

If it were up to me, I wouldn't run either.

VQ would be my personal choice. I think its different because all I ever see are SR's everyone and there grandma has one. I hardly ever see rb's There is only one guy who is somewhat local to me who has one vs the other 8 guys I know around me with SR's maybe different in your area but I was just giving my :2c:

[Chernobyl]

RB i found first was super short almost useless and once you get higher in the gears it was a beast

I love this about my little RB20. 3rd gear pulls HARD. Putting around town in 1st and 2nd kind of sucks, however, with the 4.11 gears in the back.

[doug200t]

RB valve train in the 20 is better then the 25 and is same as rb26dett. You can rev a RB20 in stock form to 9k all day long. try that in a SR everyday, also the sound is amazing everyone running sr's at the track all sound the same then you hear the RB car and everyone turns their heads

[hostyS 14]

step 1: buy your own stock chassis
step 2: swap in rb25
step 3: injectors/t67 or gt35

//thread

[Sileighty_85]

RB valve train in the 20 is better then the 25 and is same as rb26dett. You can rev a RB20 in stock form to 9k all day long. try that in a SR everyday,

Im confused, how is the RB20 Valve train better than the RB25 when they both use the same Valve train design, they are both cam over bucket style.

Of course you cant rev a stock SR that high , the SR was only designed to rev at 7500 rpms, but nothing that a Tomei Soild lifter kit cant fix.

[SuicidnS13]

I would do the RB just to be different and it would sound sick. Just do it right and it will be reliable and make a decent amount of power spend your money wisely

Years ago I would have said go with the SR like everyone else here for all the same ya ya reasons:

SR- easier to find parts, more people have experience with it, ya ya ya

But years later and 4 240's later I wouldn't even think of ever wasting money on an SR swap ever again.

SR Cons-
-Everybody and there moma has one
-Sounds like Poo Poo no matter what you do to them
-Fragile and spin rod bearings like no other engine
-Most parts that are available(that people care fore) are all just knock off crap anyways

RB Myths
-hard to find parts - actually shares just as many parts stateside as SR's
-Less aftermarket parts? - Really what do you plan on doing? Turbo upgrades cost the same or less on an RB swap than SR's. Bolt ons all cost the same.
-Rb20 swaps are very easy and cheap to move up to an rb25 swap while still using your rb20 tranny. Actually RB25 long blocks cost less than sr20det long blocks.

If I were in your shoes Id get the one with the Rb20 than later down the road pick up an rb25 longblock for around $900.00 and switch it over. Or just put a simple t3t4 turbo on the factory manifold and be happy with an easy 400whp setup. (with fuel off course)

T3T4 turbos cost half the price of any worth-a-crap t25 turbos.

[SuicidnS13]

Just for sound references-

Sr20 sounds-
YouTube - SR20DET Sil80 RS*R Exhaust (Night) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4MJNiUp09c)
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i4Q4FEAMhM

Rb20 Sounds-
YouTube - Gav's RB20DET S13 Silvia street drifting (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GjU_HDVHUY)
YouTube - First RB ride evar!1! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE7NsctdST8)

[hOngsterr]

haha get the car that has the most hooked up things,
boost control, FMIC etc etc.

if not then get your own car and swap in a RB20 cheaper then a SR swap
lol

[lazysk8er2]

YouTube - S13 RB20DET 3'' Straight Pipe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDZsrtgueME&NR=1)

^^nope sounds pretty lame-o to me.

on the fact of originality that doesnt exist anymore. everything has been done to this car except an ej25 swap or porche motors. i mean they have 4g63s and s2000 motors going into this chassis.

other than that there isnt anything original about an rb20 let alone a 240sx. either way your getting a quality product from nissan.


the sound factor shouldnt even be discussed it holds no value in choice.

[ChicagoS14]

I have done the research regarding an SR20 vs. RB20 as I am in need of a more powerful engine for my daily driven S13 coupe. I also plan to use the car at track events and do some drifting.

My reason for comparing the two somewhat vastly different engines was based on the relative swap cost.

On the one hand you have the SR20DET which is a 205hp - 215hp 4 cylinder turbocharged all aluminum engine. With a T25 / T28 turbocharger based on year and version of the engine. The swap process is pretty simple and straight forward reusing most of the same parts as a KA. Engines can be had for about 2-3,000$ shipped with all the parts and transmission. The difference in price being the type of engine (blacktop, redtop,S14/S15 etc.)

The RB20DET on the other hand is a 215hp turbocharged straight 6 cylinder engine with a cast iron block and aluminum head. It comes with a T25 style turbo that has a T3 flange. The swap process is the easiest of all RB engines because it can reuse the original driveshaft from a 240SX and will reuse the original engine and transmission mount as long as you get an R32 cross member from an RB20DET powered R32. Wiring is about the same for both the SR and RB swaps. Both can reuse the KA radiator, though the SR would be better off with an SR20 / Silvia radiator due to hose inlet/outlet placement. The engines can be had for about 1250 - 1300 $ shipped to your door. Thats MUCH LESS then the cheapest SRs i've seen.

Now as far as the power your getting from either engine in OEM form is about the same. The displacement is also the same. Both engines possess internals capable of handling around 400 hp. However here there is a pretty large difference between the overall engineering behind both engines.

As far as part availability and upgradability I wouldn't say one is worse then the other. Yes the SR has a huge aftermarket, but as mentioned by someone prior to me the RB has a large community as well and the fact thats its T3 flanged alone is enough to show that turbo upgrades are easier and more available, while an SR requires a different manifold.

I have seen dyno charts from various RB20 setups in skylines and 240s and they can put out lots of power for a relatively low cost. Most are capable of 300 whp territory with:


fuel pump
larger injectors
larger turbo or stock turbo at higher boost
front mount intercooler
downpipe and full exhaust
stronger clutch


The same goes for an SR. And if you research further you will note that there are relatively cheap upgrades for an RB20 from its bigger brothers the RB25 and 26. Now the reason why I did not mention those two engines was because the swap for either as well as costs of the engines are far greater then an SR or an RB. The overall cost of putting in an RB25 or 26 into an S-chassis rival the cost of an LSx series engine in which case I would much rather spend the money on an LSx V8 swap but thats a different debate.

Going back to the mechanics of the two engines the RB shows significant advantage over the SR. The simple fact that its a cast iron block and straight six cylinder engine provide it with a greater ability to handle high horsepower and high load for longer periods of time. Thermal issues as well as engine harmonics play a role here. Granted the engine is "only" a 2.0L, but the fact that it can rev higher then an SR and not suffer the same problems the SR suffers makes the displacement less of an issue (thats where turbochargers come in > replacement for displacement :bow:)

The SR has rocker arms vs the bucket style lifters of an RB. As people that have pushed both engines to the extreme will atest that an SR will fail quicker when in higher rpms then an RB. (So long as engine health condition is equal).

The biggest con of the RB is the added weight, the added size, and the large and somewhat restrictive intake manifold. The SR is a bit lighter and will have a much smaller footprint in the engine bay making it a bit easier to work on.

But in my opinion the fact that the RB can be swapped in for less money, can make equal power and has a greater head / block design makes me choose it over an SR.

Now I am not going to go into detail over the condition and age of either engine. Thats a common issue with all JDM imported engines. What condition they are in, how long have they been sitting for, how badly were they misused is all a mystery that accommodates all imported engines. Also, the issue of replacing timing chains / timing belts, water pumps, seals etc. is all up to the person swapping the motor. I can only say that they should be done in both cases and the costs of OEM Nissan parts for either will run about the same. So even in that sense the SR wont be better or worse then an RB.

But in the end I would say drive both and see which one feels better to you. I chose my KA-T setup over an SR swap because I drove both engines and I just preferred the KA-T.

LOL sorry about the rant - Thanks :p

[SuicidnS13]

Then do like me- big boy power - 2jz!!!

[drift freaq]

I owned a RB25 powered car putting out 300 whp at a reliable 11 pounds of boost. It rocked and the sound of the Six is pure sex. I will say though that RB's in S chassis's constitute thought out installation procedures and actions in the cooling department. The engine is technically to large air flow wise for the design of our engine bays.

Oh and it does not cost the same amount as a LSX swap to put one in. LOL


That said I also do like SR's they are fun and different.
The SR20 is like a two stroke motorcyle nothing nothing bam there it is and its balls.
The RB25 is like a 4 stroke motorcycle smooth and consistent power all the way up.

Its really a matter of what type of power band floats your boat. I happen to like smooth power all the way up. Some of my friends like that nothing and then bam wind it up and its there.
Funny no one mentions the CA18DET its one badass little engine. 4 Cylinders of a RB26 that can rev to 9k and go like stink. Of course its the whole 2 stroke motor cycle analogy all over again but the difference is it has the revs SR owners can only wish for.

All in all I have owned CA's KA's SR's and RB's. I will take a 6 thank you and in V fashion.

Oh though I started with 4's in a 510 I migrated to 6's in 240Z's within a few years. SIx Cylinders Rule!

[chad91s13]

v-tec is the way to go
s2k motor

[SuicidnS13]

BTW 1jz swaps can now be done for as much as an rb20 swap. Well a tad bit more $$$, and that is compareable to an rb26 swap for a third the price. 2.5ltrs, 2 turbos and a head that revs and flows for about 1200.00. I can get toyota tranny's for less than 400 all day long and driveshafts are only about 350 at any decent drivetrain shop in most towns.

[ChicagoS14]

BTW 1jz swaps can now be done for as much as an rb20 swap. Well a tad bit more $$$, and that is compareable to an rb26 swap for a third the price. 2.5ltrs, 2 turbos and a head that revs and flows for about 1200.00. I can get toyota tranny's for less than 400 all day long and driveshafts are only about 350 at any decent drivetrain shop in most towns.

Ive seen 1JZs for about 1300. So as long as the process of mounting it isnt too expensive then I can see how its possible to get one inside a 240 for about as much as an RB. And thats a serious engine!

[ChicagoS14]

I owned a RB25 powered car putting out 300 whp at a reliable 11 pounds of boost. It rocked and the sound of the Six is pure sex. I will say though that RB's in S chassis's constitute thought out installation procedures and actions in the cooling department. The engine is technically to large air flow wise for the design of our engine bays.

Oh and it does not cost the same amount as a LSX swap to put one in. LOL



Well depends on how you price out the swap. :ughug: How much did you spend or are you factoring in for an RB25/26 swap?

My math was showing me that:

$2000 - Complete harness / ecu / turbo RB25DET with transmission
$600 - Mckinney Touge mounting kit
$300 - Custom driveshaft
$400 - front mount intercooler

Roughly $3300 just to get it inside the engine the car.

RB26:

$3000 - Complete engine with harness / ecu / turbo
$300 - or more for RB25 transmission
$300 - custom driveshaft
$600 - Mount kit

Roughly $4200 to get it inside the car

Now with an LS1 swap there are a few different approaches. I factored in the LS1 cost since those are probably the cheapest of all LSx motors.

My estimate was:

$1500 - LS1 w / T56 ( I can buy a crashed / totalled camaro )
$500 - Mount kit from Daft innovations
$200 - GTO oil pan + sump
$300 - driveshaft
$120 - power steering line from Daft
$45 - Powersteering line return line from Daft
$65 - Swaybar spacer
$65 - Remote Clutch bleeder
$165 - LS1 CMC (clutch maser cylinder) kit
$300 - Clutch

Roughly $3260 plus a few more bucks for whatever else you need same as all other swaps.

Now I know I low balled the LS1 motor. Its true that on Ebay they sell for nearly $4000 just for a transmission and engine. But I have a friend who works for a small dealership that has the ability to buy wrecked and salvage vehicles so getting an LS1 is not hard. $2000 - $3000 is what wrecked Camaros go for and you can sell some parts off them to make some money back so motor and trans alone will run roughly $1500-$2000.

Also im not factoring in any fluids, radiators, fans, wires, electrical parts needed for rewiring, and no replacement parts such as belts hoses etc.

I am merely comparing the cost of the raw ingridients aka Engine, mounts, driveshaft, etc.

[ChicagoS14]

The only issue with turbo engines vs. a V8 is that when you add all the extras needed for a proper functioning turbo setup you almost surpass the cost of a reliable all motor V8. To achieve 400 hp out of any turbo engine you at least need a fuel pump, larger injectors, tuned ecu or some form of fuel management, some tuning time, probably larger exhaust and turbo etc.

With an LS1 you already start at 300hp and to get 400 you can use mostly bolt on power, such as a better intake, nicer cam, custom headers, and a few tweaks and you have almost 400.

[SuicidnS13]

While both of your above posts are correct, an LS1 swap simply cannot be done that cheap. Trust me I've priced it out, while even getting the whole motor set for free practically as I would have bought a totalled ls2 GTO and parted out the chassis. It leaves me with a free ls2 and a t56. But the wiring and all the other small parts alone came up to a total of over 6k at minimum. Plus all of your above posts are missing alot of electrical, like wiring prices and tuning prices.

Even though the ls1 (ls2 definately way pricier) is an over all simpler swap to live with day to day. For the same cost you would have a much more powerful 2jz swap. Forced Induction on an Ls1 is very costly. And it would take that to keep up with the big boys these days. A heads and cam package with full bolt ons on any LSx series engine costs over 4k(For maybe 450whp). Trust me I know, I am going to be building a C6 corvette next and have been prcing out all my mods trying to decide whether or not to spend the dough on the c6 zo6 or just get the LS3 and mod it.

4k on a 2jz is a nice single and fuel setup guaranteed to make over 600-800whp depending on turbo sizing and what you feel is streetable. I am a numbers geek and support a family so value per dollar is most important to me. Thus why my wifes s13 vert got an rb20 swap over an sr20 swap and my s14 is getting a major 2jz swap over any other swap available.

Value per Dollar is all that matters in the end. And how much dollars you really have available-

[ChicagoS14]

While both of your above posts are correct, an LS1 swap simply cannot be done that cheap. Trust me I've priced it out, while even getting the whole motor set for free practically as I would have bought a totalled ls2 GTO and parted out the chassis. It leaves me with a free ls2 and a t56. But the wiring and all the other small parts alone came up to a total of over 6k at minimum. Plus all of your above posts are missing alot of electrical, like wiring prices and tuning prices.

Even though the ls1 (ls2 definately way pricier) is an over all simpler swap to live with day to day. For the same cost you would have a much more powerful 2jz swap. Forced Induction on an Ls1 is very costly. And it would take that to keep up with the big boys these days. A heads and cam package with full bolt ons on any LSx series engine costs over 4k(For maybe 450whp). Trust me I know, I am going to be building a C6 corvette next and have been prcing out all my mods trying to decide whether or not to spend the dough on the c6 zo6 or just get the LS3 and mod it.

4k on a 2jz is a nice single and fuel setup guaranteed to make over 600-800whp depending on turbo sizing and what you feel is streetable. I am a numbers geek and support a family so value per dollar is most important to me. Thus why my wifes s13 vert got an rb20 swap over an sr20 swap and my s14 is getting a major 2jz swap over any other swap available.

Value per Dollar is all that matters in the end. And how much dollars you really have available-

Very true, me and you should get together and make some sort of large write up for this sort of stuff. I have been planning on building a 240SX Guide for some time. I had a small test site setup, but forgot to renew the domain and hosting and it all disappeared. Regardless now im aiming @ a Wiki style page so that its easier for people to contribute.

Plus I dont want the admins/mods to :cry:get upset about us going way off topic, since the OP did want to see whether an SR20 or RB20 swapped car was the better choice.

Also getting back to the issue of wiring, since you seem to know more in that sense, ( please explain here or via PM ) how much are you factoring for the cost of wiring in an LS1 swap. I am curious to know this as I was very close to selling my entire KA-T setup to prepare for an LS1 swap but if its beyond my budget I may reconsider, plus I never realized that a 1JZ/2JZ setup would be much cheaper.

[johngriff]

If the swap was already done, I would probably go with the RB20.

If I had to do the swap, even paying a shop, I would go with the SR20.

Intricacies too many to list.

[JVDSKYRINE]

Yeah no one is reading this and bringing 1J's and LS swaps into it?????


read the first post!!!!!

He is looking at 2 cars one with a RB20 swap and the other with an SR20.


Buy the RB20 one, Get a Rb25 turbo, GTR injectors, GTR fuel pump, and GTR fmic. Simple bolt on upgrades should make you good for 300hp on a budget

[SuicidnS13]

Back on TOPIC - Sorry

Rb20 swapped car for the WIN

[96Turbo]

All SR/RB motor swaps are played out, and if you want a motor swap just for the "sound"....:duh:


Probably two of the most pointless reasons to do one swap over another.


Sound was one of the main deciding factors for me & my choice to go with the RB25. Ur telling me the only important things about an engine is it's design & hp potential? I think an RB car has more "character" than the standard sr20 swap. My favorite part about driving my car is that rumbling idle note & the way the RB screams onto boost. 6cyl sound is so much more satisfying than the buzzy SR rasp.

RB has a fatter power curve, sounds like a choir of internal combustion angels, comes from a car most can only dream of owning, and most people don't really notice the extra weight.

If I were to build a stripped down track machine I wouldn't go with the RB due to the extra weight. I'd probably shove a VQ35 into the firewall, but I'd rather drive an RB for my street car

My vote goes for RB20

[SuicidnS13]

Sound was one of the main deciding factors for me & my choice to go with the RB25. Ur telling me the only important things about an engine is it's design & hp potential? I think an RB car has more "character" than the standard sr20 swap. My favorite part about driving my car is that rumbling idle note & the way the RB screams onto boost. 6cyl sound is so much more satisfying than the buzzy SR rasp.

My vote goes for RB20

Sound is one of the biggest deciding factors for many people. I love how 3 years ago on zilvia everyone would have been sr20 yada yada. Now people are starting to realize that:

The SR20Det is the b16a swap of the nissan world, cheap, effective but in the end.....same old borring story.

Another year or two from now people are going to be saying things like-

if your broke - do an sr20 swap
if you have no mechanicle experience - do an sr20 swap
if your el cheapo - do an sr20 swap
if you like 4 banger sounds that dont rev that high - do an sr20 swap
if you cant fabricate - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to read a wiring diagram - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to hit the search button - do an sr20 swap


Dont be one of the above guys and just go for the rb swapped car and build from it.

[donabeast]

vs the other 8 guys I know around me with SR's
make that 9 guys around you dont know you but im local

[!Zar!]

Sound is one of the biggest deciding factors for many people. I love how 3 years ago on zilvia everyone would have been sr20 yada yada. Now people are starting to realize that:

The SR20Det is the b16a swap of the nissan world, cheap, effective but in the end.....same old borring story.

Another year or two from now people are going to be saying things like-

if your broke - do an sr20 swap
if you have no mechanicle experience - do an sr20 swap
if your el cheapo - do an sr20 swap
if you like 4 banger sounds that dont rev that high - do an sr20 swap
if you cant fabricate - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to read a wiring diagram - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to hit the search button - do an sr20 swap


Dont be one of the above guys and just go for the rb swapped car and build from it.

Those are the most rice b0i idiotic bandwagoning super street shitty horrid piece of shit excuses ever.

[johngriff]

Sound is one of the biggest deciding factors for many people. I love how 3 years ago on zilvia everyone would have been sr20 yada yada. Now people are starting to realize that:

The SR20Det is the b16a swap of the nissan world, cheap, effective but in the end.....same old borring story.

Another year or two from now people are going to be saying things like-

if your broke - do an sr20 swap
if you have no mechanicle experience - do an sr20 swap
if your el cheapo - do an sr20 swap
if you like 4 banger sounds that dont rev that high - do an sr20 swap
if you cant fabricate - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to read a wiring diagram - do an sr20 swap
if you dont know how to hit the search button - do an sr20 swap


Dont be one of the above guys and just go for the rb swapped car and build from it.

It really is Very funny to look at things from such a juvenile logic.

Scion advertisements must have a very strong impact on you.

While I am familiar with the roots of this logic, in that modifying an automobile is "supposedly" a form of artistic and personal expression, after years in this industry and working on just these cars, the reasons for and against are more pragmatic, scientific and mathematical.

The error in your logic is function following form instead of the other way around. The OP needs to look at the what the end game is, and take the straightest least expensive line there.

If I was going to build another track car today, it would probably be with an SR20. It is the straightest line to a reliable powerplant there is.

Doing things simply to be unique is unremarkable, which is entirely not unique.

[SuicidnS13]

It really is Very funny to look at things from such a juvenile logic.

Scion advertisements must have a very strong impact on you.

While I am familiar with the roots of this logic, in that modifying an automobile is "supposedly" a form of artistic and personal expression, after years in this industry and working on just these cars, the reasons for and against are more pragmatic, scientific and mathematical.

The error in your logic is function following form instead of the other way around. The OP needs to look at the what the end game is, and take the straightest least expensive line there.

If I was going to build another track car today, it would probably be with an SR20. It is the straightest line to a reliable powerplant there is.

Doing things simply to be unique is unremarkable, which is entirely not unique.

You are totally correct in your statements. I appologize for my Super Street Scion Advertisement statements. However, my opinion still stands the same. I really never said the technology or the foundation of the sr20 is inferior in any way. Just that it is the most bandwagon of swaps. I guess now I am part of a different bandwagon, the one against the bandwagon swaps. I have done multiple sr20 swaps as well and have based my opinion on (as you have) years of automotive build projects.

But I totally agree with your statement for the OP to find the straightest most cost effective route to his goals. This is how all of my build projects are planned out. Or atleast which person gives him the better deal in the car he chooses to buy.

[gzer750]

i would do the sr swap. why cant people just answer the question?

[!Zar!]

i would do the sr swap. why cant people just answer the question?

Because this question has been asked countless times before.

SuicidnS13
- People need to learn how to do things for themselves and not for others. I mean this in two ways. One is by researching. The other is to not worry what little jimmy down the street has in his car.

If you want to be different, buy another car and move out to a deserted island.

Or better yet, sew a rainbow colored dick to your forehead. That sure will set you apart from everyone else.

Because here is the gist of your argument. "It's too easy". WTF type of argument is that?! In the land of cars and modifications, anything you think of has already be thought of or done.

[jaberle]

rb20, all the way..it more stable for higher power with less mods..
plus the engine sounds better.

but i guess it up to you drive a car with both and see what you like more.

p.s. i'm rocking a rb20 loving it

[thetopcow]

Someone needs to lock this thing, as it has served it's purpose.

[johngriff]

someone needs to lock this thing, as it has served it's purpose.

+111110875794

[udon!]

is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack

[blkkouki]

My vote goes toward the SR. I have a n S14SR in my car and I drive the hell out of it. Hell, I just drove back to Louisiana from California. If you want a dd that you can go to Autozone or the dealership and pick up parts, go SR. Parts are relatively cheap. With simple bolt ons, I managed to git 278hp/236tq out of my car @15psi. And yea, its pretty fun for a dd. If money wasn't an issue, I would go 1JZ or RB25. I'm currently in the process of getting my car ready for a 2JZ swap. If you have any questions about it, pm me.

[johngriff]

is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack

aluminum exchanges heat faster than iron.

So the aluminum would heat up at a faster rate.

But it will also cool down at a faster rate.

[BooStedS13SleePeR]

Id go sr.U can build it just as raw as a 20.With right turbo and componets u can achive serious power with keepin the buget under control.

[wangan_cruiser]

If you want to be different, buy another car and move out to a deserted island.

Or better yet, sew a rainbow colored dick to your forehead. That sure will set you apart from everyone else.



holy shit LMAO

[geartech]

Man this is more information than I had ever hoped to get based on the first few reply's
Both cars are already swapped but if I were to do it my self I'd look for a rb25,26 to swap.
This car is only a (get you feet wet ) to see if I like the platform and then move on from there. If I like the car enough I'll sell both rb20's it comes with and start a 25 or 26 swap on the car. The hardest thing I've tried to find is a turbo with the t3 turbine inlet and the t25/t28 outlet. Looks like I'll have to make a v-band elbow for it when I do a turbo swap.
First things first with the car is to go thu it and straighten out any issues with the swap.
Then find an exhaust for the car. 550cc inj. intake man. Nistune or some way of tuning the rom in the ecu( really need the tune software/hardware first) Think I saw a link yesterday to a site that has software to burn rom's for the rb engines

Thanks for the audio links. I love the sound of a strong straight 6 or flat 6. I've been driving a 4 cyl for a year now and really getting tired of the buzzy nature of the big 2.5l turbo eng I have in my 944. Porsche did as much as they could to smooth out the engine but you can only do so much ( well in the late 80's that is) Heck if I can come across a gt3 3.8l that could always be a diffenent swap. Don't really think it would fit but with enough time and money most any swap is possible.

Any favorites out there as far as exhaust goe's From what it looks like is I need a dump pipe and then a cat back for a s14. Not really sure but I'll be able to figure that out when I get the car on the rack and look at it.

Thanks again to all that provided useful information. It's made the disscision process much easier.

[RPS13FREAK]

YouTube - S13 RB20DET 3'' Straight Pipe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDZsrtgueME&NR=1)

^^nope sounds pretty lame-o to me.

on the fact of originality that doesnt exist anymore. everything has been done to this car except an ej25 swap or porche motors. i mean they have 4g63s and s2000 motors going into this chassis.

other than that there isnt anything original about an rb20 let alone a 240sx. either way your getting a quality product from nissan.


the sound factor shouldnt even be discussed it holds no value in choice.

Hey thats my car. It got stolen! I dont think it was lame sounding especially after i put a muffler on a couple days after. Get the RB 240. Drives smooth and the sound makes people wet lol.

[SuicidnS13]

Man this is more information than I had ever hoped to get based on the first few reply's
Both cars are already swapped but if I were to do it my self I'd look for a rb25,26 to swap.
This car is only a (get you feet wet ) to see if I like the platform and then move on from there. If I like the car enough I'll sell both rb20's it comes with and start a 25 or 26 swap on the car. The hardest thing I've tried to find is a turbo with the t3 turbine inlet and the t25/t28 outlet. Looks like I'll have to make a v-band elbow for it when I do a turbo swap.
First things first with the car is to go thu it and straighten out any issues with the swap.
Then find an exhaust for the car. 550cc inj. intake man. Nistune or some way of tuning the rom in the ecu( really need the tune software/hardware first) Think I saw a link yesterday to a site that has software to burn rom's for the rb engines

Thanks for the audio links. I love the sound of a strong straight 6 or flat 6. I've been driving a 4 cyl for a year now and really getting tired of the buzzy nature of the big 2.5l turbo eng I have in my 944. Porsche did as much as they could to smooth out the engine but you can only do so much ( well in the late 80's that is) Heck if I can come across a gt3 3.8l that could always be a diffenent swap. Don't really think it would fit but with enough time and money most any swap is possible.

Any favorites out there as far as exhaust goe's From what it looks like is I need a dump pipe and then a cat back for a s14. Not really sure but I'll be able to figure that out when I get the car on the rack and look at it.

Thanks again to all that provided useful information. It's made the disscision process much easier.

Do not waste your time trying to find a turbo like that. Just move right up to a t3/t4. Or at the least an r34 rb25 turbo which is basicly a hi-flowed rb25 turbo out of the box. It is good to around 350whp. For about 800.00 and completely bolt on. Have fun with your new purchase!!!

Mods please lock thread///

[geartech]

Just got the rb20 car home, She needs a little attention. Rear sub-frame bushings. I'll need to find a better motor mount setup. I don't really like the poly bushings they used for mounts. Will also need to set the ride height up slightly. Think it's sitting on the stops. Car has GAB revolution coil-overs. I haven't been able to find much info about them.
Other than that I was suprised by the power and how fast the turbo spools.

Car will need some attention but I got it cheap and the body is just about perfect. Only 1 tiny dent that dent-doctor/press-a-dent will be able to take care of. Car needs an exh put on it. way too quite. stock all the way back.
so time to start buying parts.

[i drive a honda]

Ok here is my thoughts.

RB20det - the power is spread over more cylinders making it easier on the engine
- this engine sucks up a ton of space, for not much reward
- Heavier, I think it is a steel block(correct me if wrong)

SR20det - tons of mods
- more room in the engine bay
- more mechanics comfortable working on this engine
- most problems can be searched and found here on zilvia


no such thing as a steel block,

but the RB20 does have a cast iron block

[i drive a honda]

is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack

if the rb20 and rb25 are the same block just differnet bore (doubt they are) then the 2.5L would be lighter (overbore = lighter)

iron blocks are more susetible to cracks, but they handle external pressures extremly well (boost).

aluminum blocks typically have semi closed or open deck (closed deck AL blocks DO exist subaru, honda and the 4b11 world engine has diff variants of deck construction)

neither will over heat on you if you have a decent cooling system.
just make a personal choice, cast iron is pretty heavy though, don't let the sand castd into an iron block/cast iron scare you off. aluminum blocks are typically sandcast (as well as heads) so if anyone says something about that, sand contiaminats are roughly the same in an AL block.

if you're welding up water jacket holes you you can mill them back down and add a chamfer, like endyn likes to do to dart blocks, Al is the material to choose with a high sillicone content filler, and a green stripe (pure) tungsten rod. some people like to run some helium with their shileding gas, but i typically use 100% argon for al of my tig welding. unless im not getting enough heat into the metal.

[twistex]

I have had a lot of swaps in 240sx chassis's. If I had a choice between sr20 and rb20 I would have to go with rb20. No matter what I put at a rb20 it would just take the beating. It sounded and rev'd way smoother, harder, and sounded cooler with stock rev limiter at 7800. Plenty of power to slide.. usually beats a sr20det stock for stock. The waste gates normally run about 10 to 11 psi on rb20det anyways compared to the 7 psi stock on sr.

I seriously didn't believe there was a thread about this. personally ever since I swaped my ls1 I have never looked back. So far the best swap I ever have owned. I have had sr20det sr20 n/a, ka24de with itbs and ka24e with itbs, ka24det setups, rb20det rb25det, l series setups in 240sx.. anyways good luck.

[swpdwgn]

stick with the SR. i hated my RB20.

[240sxxs]

SR20DET > RB2Odet ..lol...
i have bunch of friends that swap out RB20 for SR because RB is like curse sure they are ncie and blah blah blah but only for so much times.....Sr20 is well known for it abuse, daily , or soemtime even power

[Fish805]

this thread has been interesting thats all I can say

[240sxxs]

if you want a nice powered car for daily and you are attention whore then go for RB..
OMG SKYRINE MOTAAAA in 240SX that RAAARRREEEEE
if youy want a good gas mileages and still get some road kill with reliable and can get some nice number with right mod then go for SR....maybe be the first one to do SR22 ..LAWLS

[jspecusa]

think about this.
if guys in japan don't do rb20 swap into their cars instead
you see sr20 swap all the time is because they know it's junk.
if you are going to get mounts, driveshafts, and all the work you might as well go RB25.
RB20 is the buttom of the food chain.

[C-unit]

guys dont do RB20 swap because all their cars come with SR20...

[kevsz32]

think about this.
if guys in japan don't do rb20 swap into their cars instead
you see sr20 swap all the time is because they know it's junk.
if you are going to get mounts, driveshafts, and all the work you might as well go RB25.
RB20 is the buttom of the food chain.


umm...sr20 comes stock in japan..they would have no need for a swap.

[jspecusa]

OMG...jdm cars comes with SR???
what about cars don't come with SR they swap in RB20?
think

[270R]

I would get a fuel injected ls1 and cruise at 1500 rpms on freeway @ 6 gear lol its lightweight, parts r easy to come by and its got lots of kick lol ^^

dont waste your time on the rb unless u got the money and down time when something goes wrong... just get the sr less problems, more parts, less money, still turbo...

Ive seen rbs in 240s and wonder how they change the belts on those things without removing the radiator...

plus rb20 is a waste of time same power as red top wtf is that.. fu**k that

[memphis180sx]

sr would be my choice parts are cheaper and more avalible but i would do a rb if it was a 25 or 26

[i drive a honda]

OMG...jdm cars comes with SR???
what about cars don't come with SR they swap in RB20?
think

silvia = sr20det
180sx = ca18det
200sx = sr20det

in japan. 180sx's get sr20's alot, along with silvia front ends.

atleast that's what i saw when i was there.
shoving a RB series motor was pretty rare, rb26dett's are even expensive in japan (about as much as a 454 long block or ls1/ls2/ls7 swap here)

and sha-ken is the equvilant to smog + saftey checks here. no aftermarket parts

[drift freaq]

silvia = sr20det
180sx = ca18det
200sx = sr20det

in japan. 180sx's get sr20's alot, along with silvia front ends.

atleast that's what i saw when i was there.
shoving a RB series motor was pretty rare, rb26dett's are even expensive in japan (about as much as a 454 long block or ls1/ls2/ls7 swap here)

and sha-ken is the equvilant to smog + saftey checks here. no aftermarket parts


Ah guys Sam has been into these cars for longer than all of you. In fact, he knows what the hell he is talking about and was speaking sarcastically, which seems to have been lost on of all you.

In simple sense its like this. Guys in Japan have done both 25 and 26 swaps. They would not bother with the RB20 because yes there cars already come with a SR which we all know is a 2 liter 4. Plus the RB20 is the bottom of the pile for Nissan inline 6's in the 90's.

Now if any of you thinking your schooling Sam aka Jspec your clueless as hell and probably should refrain from posting.

This thread has run its course, the OP got more questions answered and info than he ever expected. Now you punks are just mucking it up with debate.

Oh and the OP bought one of the cars with the engine in question, so....
MODS Please lock this thread its now a dead Horse!

[sparkyS13]

would go with rb

[sparkyS13]

would prefer a rb

[i drive a honda]

Ah guys Sam has been into these cars for longer than all of you. In fact, he knows what the hell he is talking about and was speaking sarcastically, which seems to have been lost on of all you.

In simple sense its like this. Guys in Japan have done both 25 and 26 swaps. They would not bother with the RB20 because yes there cars already come with a SR which we all know is a 2 liter 4. Plus the RB20 is the bottom of the pile for Nissan inline 6's in the 90's.

Now if any of you thinking your schooling Sam aka Jspec your clueless as hell and probably should refrain from posting.

This thread has run its course, the OP got more questions answered and info than he ever expected. Now you punks are just mucking it up with debate.

Oh and the OP bought one of the cars with the engine in question, so....
MODS Please lock this thread its now a dead Horse!

didn't seem sarcastic to me, i don't know the guy........i don't care about his history.

why the hell are you coming in here defending someone else?

Rb25/26 swaps are still expensive.

reason i came out here to socal is to save some money. (much cheaper COL here, and i was living in a relatively cheap area of yokohama tsunashima)

[[email protected]]

SR all day...less headaches and better support

[Troof]

some of you guys have been hangin out with Rb performance too much, Otis?? or that spencer guy?? I visited one of their shops a while ago and of those cats couldnt stop raving about what a god motor the rb20 is over the sr.... pshh Joke! why isnt this locked???

[jspecusa]

I only know 2 friends with RB20 swap done and they did
it because they got the motor for free.
both were station in Japan and shops would swap out RB20 and throw them away.
one of them regret doing the swap after the swap cuz he realized how much he has spend
putting it in.
anyway just trying to educate you kids that just because it's a skyline motor
doesn't mean it's good.
try compression test those RB20 and you'll see how low they are due to the age.

[drift freaq]

didn't seem sarcastic to me, i don't know the guy........i don't care about his history.

why the hell are you coming in here defending someone else?

Rb25/26 swaps are still expensive.

reason i came out here to socal is to save some money. (much cheaper COL here, and i was living in a relatively cheap area of yokohama tsunashima)

See that's the problem with most of you noobs these days. You don't do your research.
Maybe just maybe if you had bothered finding out who you were talking to? I.E. a respected member of the community who has a lot of knowledge.

Before you opened your mouth with your comments?

You might have realized this guy has a lot of knowledge and information I(meaning you ) could benefit from.

I suggest you shut up and start reading. I don't care were you came from or why you came here.



Like I said before this thread is dead it should be closed .

[JVDSKYRINE]

This is stupid the guy who started the thread already bought the RB powered car!!!

So all your bickering now is useless

[drift freaq]

This is stupid the guy who started the thread already bought the RB powered car!!!

So all your bickering now is useless

which is what I said earlier.

[jmac636]

Rb26>Rb25>Ka24det>Sr20det<=>rb20det All depending on mileage not age cause there all old!

[OBEEWON]

For 300whp and under RB20 poops in the SR's face.

[i drive a honda]

See that's the problem with most of you noobs these days. You don't do your research.
Maybe just maybe if you had bothered finding out who you were talking to? I.E. a respected member of the community who has a lot of knowledge.

Before you opened your mouth with your comments?

You might have realized this guy has a lot of knowledge and information I(meaning you ) could benefit from.

I suggest you shut up and start reading. I don't care were you came from or why you came here.



Like I said before this thread is dead it should be closed .

seems like a forum troll who has some kids following him around calling him a drifter.

he probably came into the nissan scene when i was leaving it ( few years before tokyo drift came out).

everyone i was in it with moved onto for cobra's, honda's, subies or kids :P

[vegaspeed]

yea with an rb20 you get a 6 cyl with none of the benefits. parts are harder to come by. i think its an iron block not steel.

sr20 is more abundant. info is more readily available. parts are probably cheaper. its lighter. has usdm cross references with n/a motor

lol i have a 10sec rb20/240, just with t60 port and polish and a driver with skills

[vegaspeed]

I only know 2 friends with RB20 swap done and they did
it because they got the motor for free.
both were station in Japan and shops would swap out RB20 and throw them away.
one of them regret doing the swap after the swap cuz he realized how much he has spend
putting it in.
anyway just trying to educate you kids that just because it's a skyline motor
doesn't mean it's good.
try compression test those RB20 and you'll see how low they are due to the age.

actually lower compression is best for high boost, my car handles 32psi. high compressions for hondas lol. i think you need to be educated.

[Q.Smooth127]

:picardfp:way to revive old thread

[irax]

actually lower compression is best for high boost, my car handles 32psi. high compressions for hondas lol. i think you need to be educated.

http://i.qkme.me/1ql7.jpg