steering wheel shakes

[240sxcoupe]

my car is shaking when i go like 40+mph. im not sure why. i just bought the car last week. im thinking that it has something to do with the wheel. maybe i need to get the wheel balanced??? could really use the help. just changed the front wheel hubs today. im not sure were to start looking at for problems. could it be the holes on the rim is to big. yesterday when i was driving i heard a noise comeing from the front thought it was the engine but when i got home all four wheel studs on the passenger side broke lose.the wheel was barely holding on with three lug nut about to snap off. when i took the wheel off the wheel holes are bigger(dont really know how else to say it). i put on the new hubs and put the same rims back on. so if i can get some suggestions it would really help.i dont know much bout cars just basic stuff.

[Ali 556]

What car / rims setup ? Alloy wheels or steels ?

Could be misaligned wheel - bent rim - Bad installation of suspension parts etc,

Start be doing basic tires balancing and go from there .

while you are at it check for bent rims,

then Check the rotor / caliper maybe it not bolted down.

then maybe steering rack bushing they vibrate @ 60+mph.

Go from tyhe cheapest to the most $$$

most likley it's a bent rim / misaligned- blanced tires

oh and pix worth a 68u398y7070-9 words bro,

post some

li

[g-via]

from:

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/151267-shake-55-mph.html

Did you guys ever look at the Nissan Tech Bulletins about wearing out steering pre-load spring?

I have had a problem with an intermittent steering wheel shimmy on the highway. I've had the wheels and tires balanced on a Hunter GSP9700 and performed an alignment. All the front end suspension is new and bushings are all poly. The 15mm wheel spacers have 66.06mm hubcentric rings and so everything should be good, right? Wrong..

I then read a TSB that documents the spring in the steering rack that adjusts the pre-load causes a shimmy at highway speeds. If the spring is not pre-loaded enough (worn out), the wheel will shimmy at 55mph + and steering feel loose over potholes etc..

So I contacted Abby Nissan here and got the spring in and with a little fumbling I got the spring installed and fixed the highway shimmy! It drives like a Caddy now, as long as there's no bumps

So, here is a list of tools you'll need:

- Spring P/N 48237-10V02
- 12mm wrench with breaker bar
- Locktite 272 Threadlocker "red"
- Super Lube Penetrant
- Wire brush
- Big mouth adjustable pliars (needs to be about 2" opening)
- Torque wrench

Here's how it goes:

Theres a small adjusting screw (12mm head) on the driver's half of the steering rack which keeps tension on the spring inside the cavity it screws into.

Step 1: Spray the outside of threads with penetrant and let it sit for a minute. Then, take a wire brush and scratch off all the road grime and crap to help you crack open the adjusting screw.

Step 2: Grab your break bar and make sure it's on the head of the bolt square otherwise you'll probably strip the head off. Give it a good crank and hopefully you'll hear it crack.

Step 3: After loosening the 12mm head you will probably see it comes with a large locking nut on the outside of the threads of the screw. Inside the cavity you will have the spring coated with grease come dropping on your head so be ready for that and dont' lose the washers.

Step 4: Next, install the new spring with all the washers and maybe lube it up with some of the goop from the original spring.

Step 5: Loosen the locking nut on the tensioning screw threads all the way off. Put threadlocker on the tensioning screw threads. Install the tensioning screw over the spring and thread in. Torque until 40 ft.lbs.

Step 6: Thread on the locking nut over the tensioning screw thread until finger tight.

Step 7: Now torque the screw with the locking nut finger tight until locking nut is tight (30-50 ft lbs.) on the flange. Use your torque wrench and set it to 50 ft. lbs.

Step 8: This is where it gets fun..You have to back off the tensioning screw because right now if you were to drive the car, the steering wheel would not return to center. It just goes straight like a ride 'em lawn mower.Trust me, I know..

So, you have to loosen the tensioning screw while using your pliars or (giant crescent wrench) to keep the adjusting nut from loosening with the screw.

I found that I had to play with the tension a few times to get it right but I would recommend loosening the screw a half-turn and then going from there. More loosening will make the steering easier to return to center after turning 20*, less loosening will make the steering wheel more solid, which is what we want to get rid of this wheel shimmy.

It should feel like stock when you're done, except without the shimmy and maybe a tiny bit more steering effort, but not much.

All of this work can be performed on ramps and you can even adjust the tensioning while just reaching under the car, if you're good.

Good luck!

[beefcake6681]

Usually when the steering wheel shakes at a certain speed, it is caused by unbalanced tires. Get the tires balanced first then go from there.

[g6civcx]

[QUOTE=240sxcoupe;3057267yesterday when i was driving i heard a noise comeing from the front thought it was the engine but when i got home all four wheel studs on the passenger side broke lose.the wheel was barely holding on with three lug nut about to snap off. when i took the wheel off the wheel holes are bigger(dont really know how else to say it).

i dont know much bout cars just basic stuff[QUOTE]

Please get an estimate from your local mechanics. There are so many things that could be wrong I don't even know where to start.

[wickedjester]

sounds like u didnt properly tourque the lug nuts to start with.