View Full Version : JZ S-chassis overheating
Flicktitty
09-28-2009, 06:57 PM
Hey guy's i have a s13 coupe with a 2JZGTE in it.
the car has been running very warm water (200-220F) and oil temps (190-200F) and over the winter i'm going to be trying to adress the issue, but i'm just wondering what you other JZ/RB S-chassis guy's run for cooling stuff.
Right now i have
CXracing aluminum radiator + cap
2 12" 1600cfm fans
Yashio factory cooling panel
New waterpump
New stock thermostat (180degrees)
fmic
perma cool trans cooler
PBM hood spacers.
i'm thinking of going to a TRD thermostat (160degrees)
and maybe stepping up to a Koyo/Fluidyne radiator
and trying to maybe do some sort of ducting to get more air into the radiator. As well as doing some sort of oil cooler.
i was also wondering if anyone who has done a S13 Silvia front with a GTR grill has noticed any sort of change in temp (with more air going through the grill. since i'm contemplating doing a Silvia front if it helps i'll do it.
here is a pic of the car
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/flicktitty/July002-1.jpg
Also i know some people run plastic? tubes going toward there radiator/engine bay, how well does that help also what do you use?
something like this (on the right side of the car)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/flicktitty/Cleeeean.jpg
Flaco S14
09-28-2009, 07:07 PM
I had overheating issues on my rb25, it was so bad i could only do like 2 runs then i would have to stop and let it cool down. I decided to put in my stock clutch fan and all my overheating issues went away! i was in the 200-220 range and it dropped to about 180-190 with the stock fan. In my opinion no electric fan will push as much air as the stock fan clutch does.
Flicktitty
09-28-2009, 07:20 PM
I had overheating issues on my rb25, it was so bad i could only do like 2 runs then i would have to stop and let it cool down. I decided to put in my stock clutch fan and all my overheating issues went away! i was in the 200-220 range and it dropped to about 180-190 with the stock fan. In my opinion no electric fan will push as much air as the stock fan clutch does.
yeah, i was considering picking up a Clutch fan and pulley. (the JDM 2JZ doesn't come with a clutch fan,only the usdm 2JZ does.) but i don't think there will be enough room to install unless i change my fan's to pushers and run a clutch fan?
96Turbo
09-28-2009, 07:23 PM
^^if you have room for the stock fan it's definitely superior. Usually with the straight 6's that's out of the question in and s chasssis tho.
I noticed a huuuge difference when i got the Nismo thermostat, so I think you should get the TRD and see what happens. Bleeding the system is also really important. Distilled water & water wetter (plus some antifreeze for winter since ur in WI) also will help drop temps a few degrees.
Do you have a shroud on your fans? Are they pulling or pushing? Try to build a nice shroud & have them pull air through the radiator.
clark
09-28-2009, 07:32 PM
the ducting you referenced in the picture seems like it's for brake cooling. the brake duct directs air at the rotor to dissipate the heat better.
make sure your FMIC is the same alignment as your radiator.
so basically like this || and not |\ or |/.
if it's not like || then the air wont' properly move through your radiator because the intercooler is jamming it up or down and not straight through your rad.
Flicktitty
09-28-2009, 07:39 PM
^^if you have room for the stock fan it's definitely superior. Usually with the straight 6's that's out of the question in and s chasssis tho.
I noticed a huuuge difference when i got the Nismo thermostat, so I think you should get the TRD and see what happens. Bleeding the system is also really important. Distilled water & water wetter (plus some antifreeze for winter since ur in WI) also will help drop temps a few degrees.
Do you have a shroud on your fans? Are they pulling or pushing? Try to build a nice shroud & have them pull air through the radiator.
thanks, the TRD thermo is about $90 so i'm gonna be picking one of those up and try it. I used a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze with some water wetter and still ran warm (not as bad but still warm) me and a friend bleed the system once, the 2nd time a performance rotary shop bleed the system so i'm assuming they know what to do with bleeding a cooling system,
Right now i don't have a fan shroud (i'm considering doing one though on it) and right now i have 2 12" PULLER fans.
the ducting you referenced in the picture seems like it's for brake cooling. the brake duct directs air at the rotor to dissipate the heat better.
make sure your FMIC is the same alignment as your radiator.
so basically like this || and not |\ or |/.
if it's not like || then the air wont' properly move through your radiator because the intercooler is jamming it up or down and not straight through your rad.
thanks, i didn't know if those were for the brakes or cooling of the engine components.
and the intercooler and radiator are | | so that should be ok? i think the IC is blocking most of the radiator though. My IC is mounted below the crash bar, so theres not much room for air to get through.
96Turbo
09-28-2009, 07:48 PM
ducting is super important, so you might wanna try building a shroud first since it will be cheaper than the new thermostat (although i'm willing to bet that the 2 combined will solve ur problems)
los_inc
09-28-2009, 08:17 PM
i would get a better rad not to sound like a hater/fan boy
but cx-racing isn't known for making the best stuff. affordable yes
but quality who knows. i remember reading some where that parts shop max
was coming out with a rad thats 30% thicker. i would give that a shot.
also mishimoto makes 12inch fans that come with a aluminum shroud
that bolts up. with a decent fan controller and you should be fine. make sure all your temp sensors are in working order.
goodluck
Boostedkouki
09-28-2009, 08:49 PM
I had a Rb25 in my car with a stock rad, & Flexalites fan shit never overheated on me!
Flicktitty
09-29-2009, 10:47 AM
i would get a better rad not to sound like a hater/fan boy
but cx-racing isn't known for making the best stuff. affordable yes
but quality who knows. i remember reading some where that parts shop max
was coming out with a rad thats 30% thicker. i would give that a shot.
also mishimoto makes 12inch fans that come with a aluminum shroud
that bolts up. with a decent fan controller and you should be fine. make sure all your temp sensors are in working order.
goodluck
yeah i hear what your saying, I picked up the CX one about 2 years ago when my stocker went out, as a cheap upgrade, i had no intentions on runnning it with the 2J swap, but money became tight so we decided to run with it.
I had a Rb25 in my car with a stock rad, & Flexalites fan shit never overheated on me!
damn, wish i was that lucky.
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