Failed smog

[kingkilburn]

1993 KADE

At 15 mph at 1797 rpm HC 115 CO 0.68 NO 890
At 25 mph at 2836 rpm HC 52 CO 0.35 NO 209

Engine code 32

I have replaced plugs and wires. Air filter is good.

I'm also getting terrible gas mileage.

[rokmplutonium]

"32 - EGR malfunction (California models)"
KA24DEvelopment.com :: ECU Diagnostics (http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html)

[kingkilburn]

I know what a code 32 is. Knowing that doesn't help much in figuring out EXACTLY what the problem is. It could be vacuum, electrical, or the egr itself is bad. I just need some help getting pointed in the right direction.


Thanks for trying though.

[kingkilburn]

Well I'm going to try replacing all the old vacuum lines. Hopefully that gets rid of the cel.

[mksue240sx]

Its the exhaust hose to the backpressure transducer. They always fail. No EGR without it.

[SoguRacing]

show us your smog print out minus the location and names. :)

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm

[kingkilburn]

All the info is in my first post.

[DALAZ_68]

I know what a code 32 is. Knowing that doesn't help much in figuring out EXACTLY what the problem is. It could be vacuum, electrical, or the egr itself is bad. I just need some help getting pointed in the right direction.



sounds like you already got it narrowed down...

Its the exhaust hose to the backpressure transducer. They always fail. No EGR without it.

dont know about always...but that was my issue...

[kingkilburn]

I finally got around to replacing the vacuum lines but it was like a catch 22.

I passed on the emissions test but failed the function test. It threw codes 32 and 34.

I think it is actually the EGR but we'll see.

[SoguRacing]

show us a printout of the smog report. you dont have all the info down. you just have the numbers that your car measured...not the "max" that your car is allowed to put out.

[kingkilburn]

I guess I assumed the "max" was the same for all KADE S13s.

[DALAZ_68]

just scan the sheet and hide YOUR info...itll help the process along...

[kingkilburn]

I'm not worried about my information. . . I just don't happen to have the print out at the moment. I'll post it up when I do.

[kingkilburn]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/kingkilburn/73009001b.jpg

[kingkilburn]

Badump bump!

[WISH ONE]

Egr temp sensor there?

[kingkilburn]

What do you mean?

The cel was for egr and knock sensor. The knock sensor is getting replaced(already confirmed Not to be the wiring).

[SoguRacing]

perhaps you have carbon buildup in your cylinders. this would cause high Nox (which you have) and it will cause timing to retard. Your HC numbers are probably high because your ecu is throwing more gas in trying to get rid of the detonation due to the hot spots that the carbon build up is causing making your HC increase. And your CO is high because because there's more fuel/ unburnt fuel exiting the chambers. If i were you.. I would disconnect your cat from the rest of the exhaust, take out your spark plugs and pour a few spoon fulls of coolant into your combustion chambers. coolant breaks down the carbon build up and cleans the cylinders. just remember to disconnect the cat from the rest of the system because burned coolant destoys the cats ability to function properly. Then let the engine run free for a few minutes.

[Def]

Everything is high - it looks like a worn out cat(going richer or leaner won't help that since NO and HC/CO are caused by lean/rich conditions respectively - and timing influenced as well). Best bet is a new cat.

[kingkilburn]

Finally some real help. lol

I will definitely try the coolant. I have some seafoam as well so I guess I'll try both.

I will take a good look at the cat while it's off for the coolant thing. Hopefully it's not that.

[idlafie]

Sorry...coming into this thread late...I don't get onto Zilvia as much as I used to since I sold my S14.

Check out my response in this previous thread....

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/157982-s13-kka24de-egr-valve-error-code.html

Just for your information high NO readings are due to a lack of hot air gasses not being recirculated back into your intake manifold. The purpose of recirculation hot exhaust gases back into the intake manifold is to keep combustion temperatures below 2400 degrees Farenheit. NO gasses form when combustion temperates get above 2400 degrees Farenheit. Things to check for are 1). Condition of sparkplugs & wires, 2) Condition of distributor cap & rotor, 3), Check for intake / vacuum leaks 4). Make sure Oxygen & Engine Coolant Temperature sensors are functioning properly. 5). Check the soleniods for the EGR system...they are usually right next to the firewall at the back of the motor. Pulling the valve cover will give you better access. You'll need a Factory Service Manual for directions on how to test & service your EGR system.

And if you need any more info on Failed Smog, just use the SEARCH function here on Zilvia...look for all threads posted by IDLAFIE. I've helped a lot of people with these types of problems....

Hope this helps....

Good luck...

ID

PS:
Seafoam will definitely help in cleaning out the carbon buildup in your intake manifold & combustion chamber.......

[importdude]

you are close. My TIps i have will pass forsure

pm me

i brough my friends miata from 1800 down to 850 NO


Of course u still need to clear the egr code. u can just wire in a resistor

[Lith]

I agree with Def. All your values are high. That usually means you need a new cat.

[kingkilburn]

I have a new knock sensor to put in in the morning. After that I'll run some seafoam through the vacuum system.

Thanks for the link IDLAFIE. I think it is just dirty(super high mileage) but I will check for vacuum at the specified location.

I'll be sure to update after I do the above. Monday at the latest.

[techn9ne]

high nox and hc usually caused by a air/fuel mixture misfire

CO is partially burned fuel coming out the tailpipe.

double check your timing (smog techs are lazy and usually dont check the timing)
make sure its on the dot. look for a possible lean\rich condition

*EDIT*: missed the poor fuel economy part.
look for a false lean condition that is making your ECU richen the fuel mixture?
also, since your car is throwing the egr code, your ECU may be running your motor richer to prevent detonation. knock sensor code can also do this.

[kingkilburn]

I kept telling the smog tech that the knock sensor was making it run rich. He was such an ass. He kept saying knock sensor ONLY change ignition timing. I told him that may be true on most cars but not for mine, to which he rebutted "No they Only change timing."

I said " and that is why your a smog tech and not a real mechanic" His face turned red and his boss told him to sit down. lol

[sked707]

Run seafoam.. have you sprayed tb cleaner in your throttle body lately? it helps to clean that sucker up

[Def]

I kept telling the smog tech that the knock sensor was making it run rich. He was such an ass. He kept saying knock sensor ONLY change ignition timing. I told him that may be true on most cars but not for mine, to which he rebutted "No they Only change timing."

I said " and that is why your a smog tech and not a real mechanic" His face turned red and his boss told him to sit down. lol

A knock sensor signal during the timing map cells that pay attention to it will switch the ECU to secondary knock maps for both fuel and ignition timing - so whatever changes are in effect there, that's what will happen to the car. Typically they are going to be for engine preservation and not for emissions.

[kingkilburn]

I ran some seafoam through the brake booster line. It is running much better now but I need to get some more as I only had about half a cup left.

I have a new knock sensor to put in but my SchlepRock of a brother broke the clip on the pig tail so I'll have to figure something out on that one.

http://blog.nola.com/notesonneworleans/2008/10/medium_schleprock.jpg

I know the egr works(moved the diaphragm and engine bogged) but wasn't sure where to check for vacuum. Can any one point that out for me?

[techn9ne]

I ran some seafoam through the brake booster line. It is running much better now but I need to get some more as I only had about half a cup left.

I have a new knock sensor to put in but my SchlepRock of a brother broke the clip on the pig tail so I'll have to figure something out on that one.

http://blog.nola.com/notesonneworleans/2008/10/medium_schleprock.jpg

I know the egr works(moved the diaphragm and engine bogged) but wasn't sure where to check for vacuum. Can any one point that out for me?

peep the vacuum routing label under the hood?

[kingkilburn]

Forgot to update.






It passed after replacement the knock sensor. Luckily the egr code didn't come on during the test. Since then I can't seem to make it go away. I'm thinking of going the resistor route.