Koyo N FLOW or Just Koyo Regular aluminum?? Im about to buy one hehehe! yay!

[om3ga]

I'm going to be purchasing a koyo aluminum radiator soon, im trying to decide whether to get the "New" N-FLOW designed one, or to just go with the regular koyo. I had a regular koyo on my ka a long time ago and loved it and now for the SR im buying another one. I havent heard much of anything about the N-FLOW design they have im hoping there is no way that it can cause any problems at all, it only costs about $20 more than the regular one thats why im planning on going with that one if it is indeed better.

Anyone heard anything about them? Any good comments or any problems?

Thanks! i tried searching but havent seen any reviews or anything..:ghey:

[xpertsnowcarver]

N flow is nothing new.. The flow of water is in the shape of an N. That's it. If I remember seeing a few different FSMs correctly, some OEM radiators are made with this design.

Since you're getting an SR radiator, just buy the regular one. I'd recommend "N flow" for KA owners.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d8/Cross_flow_radiators.gif http://www.usradiator.com/images/tf_small.GIF

[om3ga]

Oh really? wow that makes sense hmm well wouldnt it be better even though its on the sr? or it wouldnt cool as good since the water necks are on the same side?

[SILVIA_KIDs14.5]

yes please englighten us

[zenki.life]

why n flow for KAs? because its an OEM engine?

[blackrms13]

why n flow for KAs? because its an OEM engine?
um...SRs are OEM motors as well =.=

[zenki.life]

um...SRs are OEM motors as well =.=

haha. ment to say NA

[TIG]

I too am curious why a single pass would be recommended over a triple pass. Every high performance race radiator I've built or outsourced to be built has been a triple pass.

[240sxxs]

from a diagram i sees..would the same pattern of flow better then the N flows.because it all pass and coolant at same time ...while the N flow have to wait till the first pass then the sec's pass then third pass..would it be hotter ?? sorry noob here

[yota man]

Another thing to consider is what you are using the car for? If its daily driving there is such a thing as "too cool." If this car is going to used for short everyday drives then it may not reach normal operating temps which would cause more wear and tear on the engine.

How ever if the car is going to see serious track time it may be more beneficial to have the "triple pass" design of the "N flow."

And 240sxxs it would actually have lower temps due to the fact it spends more time in the rad being hit by cool air.

[om3ga]

Its going to see pretty good daily driving and also a good amount of abuse/track time. Im also trying to figure out whether to go with All new OEM nissan stock mechanical fan equipment or if i should switch over to some sort of electrical fan setup which will either be the FAL-345 setup or the Mishimoto dual fan setup. Any light on either of those?

[importdude]

mechanical fan

if you do use aftermarket eletrical fan please get fan controller that is set to 180F

stock fan wire= 205F which is little hot to start fan

[240sxxs]

mechanical fan

if you do use aftermarket eletrical fan please get fan controller that is set to 180F

stock fan wire= 205F which is little hot to start fan

electrical fan....set it at ALL-TIME....lol fan alway spinnng.....due to the fact AZ can get as hot as 120 :bash:

[TIG]

Another thing to consider is what you are using the car for? If its daily driving there is such a thing as "too cool." If this car is going to used for short everyday drives then it may not reach normal operating temps which would cause more wear and tear on the engine.


I see what you're saying, however that is what a thermostat is for. The thermostat should remain closed until the engine is near operating temp (depending on the thermo), then it will open introducing the cooler coolant from the radiator, and flowing the warmer coolant through the radiator.

[Bigsyke]

mechanical fan

if you do use aftermarket eletrical fan please get fan controller that is set to 180F

stock fan wire= 205F which is little hot to start fan

Its 203*f, which is not hot. normal op temp is 195*. 212*f is a little too hot, 225* and your starting to melting rubber.

Why get a fan controller when the OE fan controller will do just fine? If the OE fan relay isnt cooling to your standards, then you have to rework your cooling system.

I replaced my Radiator with a mishimoto, and thermostat with a nismo, coolant with honda type II, and a swirl tank, and cooling panel my temps are consistantly at 160*f moving. Only when im parked for about 15 minutes will my altima fans kick in. Hard driving my temps have never broken 180*f.

electrical fan....set it at ALL-TIME....lol fan alway spinnng.....due to the fact AZ can get as hot as 120 :bash:

Thats the dumbest thing on the planet. Those fans arent designed to be on for more than 15 seconds. Plus they disrupt airflow, once you start moving faster than 30mph the fans become useless on any load. 200-203*f is fine for your fans, anything less is just wasted unless your cooling system is crap.

[om3ga]

Yeah i actually decided to go with the mechanical fan setup, Im going to be running that along with the koyo N Flow radiator, A nismo thermostat, also a bottle of water wetter. I have looked at the swirl tanks but how does that help with bleeding the cooling system? Do you still need to jack the front of the car up and open the radiator cap or what??!?!?

[BustedS13]

Since you're getting an SR radiator, just buy the regular one. I'd recommend "N flow" for KA owners.



Another thing to consider is what you are using the car for? If its daily driving there is such a thing as "too cool." If this car is going to used for short everyday drives then it may not reach normal operating temps which would cause more wear and tear on the engine.

How ever if the car is going to see serious track time it may be more beneficial to have the "triple pass" design of the "N flow."

And 240sxxs it would actually have lower temps due to the fact it spends more time in the rad being hit by cool air.


talking out of your asses?

[OpHaScHiLlM]

Read in a recent magazine that N-Flow is recommended for drift cars that don't get straight air forced in/cooling since they are constantly at a angle, so the coolant passes a few times around the partitions to help with this gig. Supposedly it also raises the pressure, working the water pump harder causing it to fail sooner. Also has higher low speed temps where the standard design is more efficient by cooling all at once.

[xpertsnowcarver]

Oh really? wow that makes sense hmm well wouldnt it be better even though its on the sr? or it wouldnt cool as good since the water necks are on the same side?

It would be, but not worth the $20. Your engine only needs to be cooled so much. A standard SR Koyo does the job just fine. That's all I'm trying to say.

KAs since the input is on the same as the output would need the n-flow design to force the fluid accross the cooling area. Whereas, the SR radiator has it on the ends and cools just fine. Save the $20 for a aluminum coolant reservoir.

talking out of your asses?

Nope. I've had both engines and both radiators.

[BustedS13]

good times, well played!

[yota man]

I see what you're saying, however that is what a thermostat is for. The thermostat should remain closed until the engine is near operating temp (depending on the thermo), then it will open introducing the cooler coolant from the radiator, and flowing the warmer coolant through the radiator.

True. I totally brain farted that out of the equation. But I'd just go with xpertsnowcarver's advice on this one since he has actually had both.


And busted thank you for sharing so much wisdom in this thread.

[socaldrifter13]

Yeah i actually decided to go with the mechanical fan setup, Im going to be running that along with the koyo N Flow radiator, A nismo thermostat, also a bottle of water wetter. I have looked at the swirl tanks but how does that help with bleeding the cooling system? Do you still need to jack the front of the car up and open the radiator cap or what??!?!?


When you run your car hard it tends to build up air bubbles in the cooling system causing the car to over heat. The breather tank helps keep the air bubble out of the cooling system. I have one in my car with a Mishimoto rad, it dosent over heat even at the track. I stand by breather tanks they kick ass

[om3ga]

When you run your car hard it tends to build up air bubbles in the cooling system causing the car to over heat. The breather tank helps keep the air bubble out of the cooling system. I have one in my car with a Mishimoto rad, it dosent over heat even at the track. I stand by breather tanks they kick ass


Could you show me which one you have and how exactly it is setup? I might do one of those breather tanks. Im going to have a Yashio factory water pump pulley which should help already with cavitation so it should not build up small bubbles since it wont be spinning fast enough. Or does that not make a difference.

[om3ga]

Read in a recent magazine that N-Flow is recommended for drift cars that don't get straight air forced in/cooling since they are constantly at a angle, so the coolant passes a few times around the partitions to help with this gig. Supposedly it also raises the pressure, working the water pump harder causing it to fail sooner. Also has higher low speed temps where the standard design is more efficient by cooling all at once.


What magazine? Id like to read about this. Do they have a review somewhere online?

ZOMG DOUBLE POST IM SORRY

[socaldrifter13]

Could you show me which one you have and how exactly it is setup? I might do one of those breather tanks. Im going to have a Yashio factory water pump pulley which should help already with cavitation so it should not build up small bubbles since it wont be spinning fast enough. Or does that not make a difference.


ya all take pics of it when i get home

[om3ga]

cool! Thanks