A/C blows warm after tranny swap

[omgRWDgoodness!]

So I just swapped an S13 tranny into my S14 and I think I must've ruptured a refrigerant line or something while doing the swap, since the engine tilts backwards quite a bit when you take the tranny out. So now my A/C blows warm AND my windows don't go down, combined with the Florida summer literally makes my car a goddamn oven. Anyone know what line I could've possibly ruptured or what else the problem could be?

[bigOdom1]

check the fuses first. alternator fuse under the hood went out on me a few weeks ago and the ac, windows, locks, radio, and cluster all died til the fuse was replaced

[RastaS13]

check the fuses first. alternator fuse under the hood went out on me a few weeks ago and the ac, windows, locks, radio, and cluster all died til the fuse was replaced
I would check your relays as well. this happened to me and it ended up being my relays

[steve shadows]

exactly this is why most manuals suggest you remove the battery from the car as step number 1

[omgRWDgoodness!]

I checked my relax box under the hood and everything looks okay. I'm going to try swapping the power window and alternator relays with a matching one from my friends car though, and see if that works. All my fuses looks okay inside the car, as well. I'll do some experimenting with those, too.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

I replaced the relay and the fuses are okay. Any other suggestions??

[fcdrifter20]

does the compressor cycle on and off still??

[projectRDM]

does the compressor cycle on and off still??

Exactly, let's start simple. Is the A/C light on? Does the compressor cycle?

Did the windows begin their problem during the swap as well? You've blown a fusible link if so, go back and actually check them, don't just look them over from a distance.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

If the compressor is the little box in the driver's side of the engine bay down and in front of the exhaust manifold like I think, then yes it's running and the pulley and belt are all functioning properly.

The A/C light is not on. My windows are working fine now, the culprit was a simple blown fuse which I promptly replaced.

One thing's for certain: I was out of refridgerant, so something leaked or is leaking somewhere. I took the little blue cap off the nipple:D and pressed the valve and could only hear a VERY faint "pssshhhh" over the sound of the engine running as the remaining refridgerant leaked out before I couldn't hear anything. =/

[projectRDM]

If the compressor is the little box in the driver's side of the engine bay down and in front of the exhaust manifold like I think, then yes it's running and the pulley and belt are all functioning properly.

The A/C light is not on. My windows are working fine now, the culprit was a simple blown fuse which I promptly replaced.

One thing's for certain: I was out of refridgerant, so something leaked or is leaking somewhere. I took the little blue cap off the nipple:D and pressed the valve and could only hear a VERY faint "pssshhhh" over the sound of the engine running as the remaining refridgerant leaked out before I couldn't hear anything. =/

Little box? You don't know what a compressor is?

Big, cylinder looking thing bolted to the block, silver in color, with two lines coming off the top. Run off a belt.

You say the belt and pulley are turning, but is the clutch engaged? When the system is low the clutch won't engage, which is the case here probably. So, recharge the system and scan for leaks with the appropriate tool.

A/C work isn't rocket science.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

Sorry for the poor description, me Lord! Same thing, either way. I don't know if the A/C clutch is engaging, but I'll buy an A/C recharge kit this weekend.

[omgRWDgoodness!]

Ok, so turns out this A/C clutch wasn't engaging. I bought refridgerant yesterday and when I charged the system it engaged. Even though I charged the system to the recommended PSI on the gauge, it seemed to blow only marginally colder...

[devnull]

Sounds like you need to find and fix your leak first. The simplest way is to spray soapy water on the lines and joints. When you see bubbles forming that's where your leak is.

[projectRDM]

Ok, so turns out this A/C clutch wasn't engaging. I bought refridgerant yesterday and when I charged the system it engaged. Even though I charged the system to the recommended PSI on the gauge, it seemed to blow only marginally colder...

You have a leak. The Schassis system should stabilize at about 1.8lbs of refrigerant. Any more and you risk damage to seals and o-rings.