Need a new crank pulley for my SR Unorthodox or New OEM?

[om3ga]

I need a new crank pulley for my SR because the old one is chipped and rusty and disgusting.
I'm trying to decide whether i should go with the Unorhodox racing pulley($180) or if i should go with a new OEM crank pulley ($155)
The cost is not the issue, id like to upgrade if the UR is an upgrade i keep hearing people say bad things about solid crank pulleys and i dont know what to believe anymore. So i want to buy whatever one would be better but i figure since they cost around the same amount of money i would ask around to see what others would do.
I planned on getting a lightweight fidanza flywheel as well as the Unorhodox pulley but if the Unorthodox pulley is going to destroy my engine like some people have led me to believe then id rather go with the best thing and just get a new OEM crank pulley. What is the better choice in this situation? With money not being a problem considering its only $25 difference.

I need a proven case of the UR pulley destroying something on a 4 cylinder engine and better yet the SR before i can believe any of the "what seems to be correct" stuff.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Keep your old one, paint it and use the money on something else.

[Z33dori]

or u could just buy a used oem crank pulley?

20-30 bucks

[blackej7]

if cost is not an issue:

http://www.atiracing.com/links/pr/honda-k20-damper/ATI-honda-k20-damper.jpg

[om3ga]

if cost is not an issue:

http://www.atiracing.com/links/pr/honda-k20-damper/ATI-honda-k20-damper.jpg

Well the small price difference between the two is what i meant, since there is only a $25 difference between them that does not make me lean towards one of them more than the other.

[ixfxi]

I need a proven case of the UR pulley destroying something on a 4 cylinder engine and better yet the SR before i can believe any of the "what seems to be correct" stuff.

buy the UR. apparently, if people "advising caution" is not reason enough, and you're not able to research and talk to engine building shops to get their professional opinions, then go ahead and do what you WANT to do.

personally, i dont want for proven examples of blown motors before making decisions like this. i read, research, and make a decision based on the theory why things like this happen.


its called inherent vibration and the sole purpose of that dampener is to cancel those out. if you think by not using a dampener (going solid) wont have any negative effects, then by all means go ahead and then post your review 10 years from now.

[zugoi]

Why did you make another thread about this. You already make one a couple weeks ago about the same thing. You could of searched or took the advice members gave you in the last thread.


http://zilvia.net/f/chat/268644-ur-pulley-fidanza-flywheel-sr.html

[om3ga]

Why did you make another thread about this. You already make one a couple weeks ago about the same thing. You could of searched or took the advice members gave you in the last thread.


http://zilvia.net/f/chat/268644-ur-pulley-fidanza-flywheel-sr.html

Thanks, I did not get any PROVEN facts of it destroying anything on an SR or similar 4 cylinder engine, I figured id see what other people who do in the given situation. :wavey: Im trying to completely rule it out before i spend my money on a stock one. I will not settle for a used stock one either or any used one at that. I am hoping to gather some feedback from people with SR's who have been using an Unorthodox crank pulley and tell me what they think of it, how long they have been using it, what it has or has not destroyed etc..

[om3ga]

Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem.

[ixfxi]

uh huh.................


one of my friends wrote an article on this, and did a test with a mic.. measuring vibrations with and without crank pulley on a 4-cyl motor... he said that there was a very significant increase in resonance being produced, and without the OE pulley it gets transmitted into the motor.

that NVH doesnt transmit into the cabin or to the driver, it transmits back into the motor. keep the pulley and stop being a retard.

[didderson]

Thanks om3ga. I remember you and I fought against the grain on this subject in another thread. I'll have to dig up what I wrote, but I was learning about the same thing at the time.
I came to the conclusion that if your flywheel is aftermarket or balanced by professionals then you're fine to not have the oem crank pulley.

[barraza1984]

or buy this
http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/270093-___greddy-hks-blitz-sale-__.html

[om3ga]

or buy this
http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/270093-___greddy-hks-blitz-sale-__.html


Now THAT is a crank pulley i would never buy haha. I know Unorthodox has been around for a long time and their products are very good quality.

[om3ga]

uh huh.................


one of my friends wrote an article on this, and did a test with a mic.. measuring vibrations with and without crank pulley on a 4-cyl motor... he said that there was a very significant increase in resonance being produced, and without the OE pulley it gets transmitted into the motor.

that NVH doesnt transmit into the cabin or to the driver, it transmits back into the motor. keep the pulley and stop being a retard.

I would be very interested to read about this, if you have good evidence proving that an aluminum crank pulley will do serious damage then by all means post it. Ive been running into the problem of nobody having real proof of it hurting anything on japanese engines. I'm not trying to argue to much i just have not heard of any japanese engine failing and having the aluminum crank pulley be the cause.

lol whoops double post.

[ixfxi]

Now THAT is a crank pulley i would never buy haha. I know Unorthodox has been around for a long time and their products are very good quality.

the proof is out there, you just have to dig for it. its just like these shitty hid kits, i can post facts all day but people still buy this garbage because they dont care.

ive spoken with the owner of UR, i asked him about poor charging performance or AC performance. at idle my wipers would wipe slow and the ac wouldnt blow cold. i'de have to raise the revs to spin the accessories faster. the owner kept giving me smoke and mirror answers. no matter, i removed the piece of shit pulley and sold it to "a dumb kid on nico" and moved on.

http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1283

this is the only link i can find that USED to go to the article my friend scott wrote for overboost. google the link and you'll find other threads where people agree with scott and his technical findings, even though the article is now blowing in the wind of the interwebs.

what motor do you have, anyway? if you have an NA motor, forget it.. nothing you do will give you major power imprvement anyway. and if you're turbo, you're a tool because youre better off spending that money on buying a better turbo and other forms of tuning.

[Matej]

So far, an aluminum crank pulley was the single mod that made the most noticeable difference after I installed it. Maybe it is just my imagination, but it made the KA feel more nimble than when I had a basic T25 KA-T setup.

Even if it may not possibly be good for the motor in the long run, which can be said for many mods, I just look at it as the lesser of two evils. I believe the turbo; even with proper tuning; would have blown the motor long before any pulley will.

[zugoi]

Thanks, I did not get any PROVEN facts of it destroying anything on an SR or similar 4 cylinder engine, I figured id see what other people who do in the given situation. :wavey: Im trying to completely rule it out before i spend my money on a stock one. I will not settle for a used stock one either or any used one at that. I am hoping to gather some feedback from people with SR's who have been using an Unorthodox crank pulley and tell me what they think of it, how long they have been using it, what it has or has not destroyed etc..

So if you dont get the answer you want to hear are you gunna open another thread? If you believe UR is a great company and its been out there for years then yeah go for it. If your worried then dont. Its that simple. You arnt going to break anything running UR pullies, not like your running in Lemans.

[om3ga]

So if you dont get the answer you want to hear are you gunna open another thread? If you believe UR is a great company and its been out there for years then yeah go for it. If your worried then dont. Its that simple. You arnt going to break anything running UR pullies, not like your running in Lemans.

The answer im looking for is REAL PROVEN FACTS of solid aluminum pullies causing problems on 4 cylinder "Internally balanced" motors. The answer i "want" is the correct proven answer not ones own theory.

and this link " http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1283 (http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1283) " is apparently not valid. :\

The fact here in my case is, I have to spend money either way. I could go ahead and buy a new OEM crank pulley for $155 ( I will not buy a used one dont even try to tell me to do that) or i could get the Unorthodox one for $180... hmmm well since they are so similar in price this brings up a problem. Do i buy the UR one given its a supposed "Upgrade" or do i buy an OEM since i know it works? i do indeed have a turbo motor (SR) so i figure if the UR pulley will not hurt anything then im going to get that which will keep me from having to buy a large water pump pulley, or if its going to destroy my engine then ill go with the OEM one...