Knock Sensor and MAF Codes being thrown?

[nrmskate]

Well, my car has been running like shit, cutting off randomly. So I check me ECU and pulled the codes.

Got codes:

12 MAF
34 Knock (Detonation) Sensor

My question is, do you think the actual KS is bad, or the ground?

Another question, is this one of those situations where if I fix one code, it should fix the other?

like if I fix the KS will it fix the MAF problem, or vice versa?

Thanks boys.

[S-Nation S13]

ks means your timing could be off
im not to sure if maf and ks are linked but you can buy maf cleaner can clean the wire in it to see if it works

[nrmskate]

I checked the timing, and it's dead on factory specs.

[Bigsyke]

^^^its usually both, i wouldnt run a KS unless your boosting. Get the 1m ohm resistor and call it a day. Solder it at the ECU

MAF code usually is if you pull off the intake tube while the engine is running.

[nrmskate]

That's the thing, I havn't taken the intake tube off.

I checked the MAF wires, there good.

You think it could just be a faulty MAF?

[Homer_Simpson]

That's the thing, I havn't taken the intake tube off.

I checked the MAF wires, there good.

You think it could just be a faulty MAF?
Try to borrow a known working MAFS from your friend and see if your code (MAFS) goes away. I spliced my MAFS wire in the shielded section and that was enough to throw a code so I had to replace the whole shielded wire to get rid of the MAFS code.

Do the resistor like stated above to see if your "knock" code will go away.

[nrmskate]

Can someone link me to the resistor write up?

I just wanna be able to drive again.

[Homer_Simpson]

Can someone link me to the resistor write up?

I just wanna be able to drive again.

knock sensor bypass? - FreshAlloy.com Forums (http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194466)

Are you able to rev past 2500 rpm?

[nrmskate]

Yes, it will just randomly cut out, most of the time at 3k+rpm.

[Homer_Simpson]

Yes, it will just randomly cut out, most of the time at 3k+rpm.

Seems like the symptom of a bad MAFS (its like having a rev limiter at ~2500 rpm). Like I said previously, try a known working one first to see if your wiring is REALLY in order then work from there.

[nrmskate]

Is there a way I can rule out the wiring now, so I can narrow it down to being the MAF itself?

[Homer_Simpson]

Is there a way I can rule out the wiring now, so I can narrow it down to being the MAF itself?
I honestly don't know. I found out my wiring was bad only after I got a working MAFS and still throw a code, that's when I dissected my harness to replace the shielded wire. Never touched the MAFS the whole time but as soon as the shielded wire was replaced, everything was gravy.

[nrmskate]

How far down the harness is the shielded wire exactly?

Is there a way I can use a Z32 MAF? Or something? or will it not run right because of no tune?

It's just no one around here has a 240, but Z32, yes.

[Homer_Simpson]

How far down the harness is the shielded wire exactly?

Is there a way I can use a Z32 MAF? Or something? or will it not run right because of no tune?

It's just no one around here has a 240, but Z32, yes.
You can use the single cam MAFS, but you will have to rewire/repin the wires to make it work in place of the SR MAFS.

You can use the Z32 MAFS but you will either need to have a tuned ECU that allow you to use the Z32 MAFS. Your other option is that you will have to use a SAFC in conjunction with the Z32 MAFS.

You've got 6" of unshielded wire starting from the MAFS plug, from that point it is shielded almost all the way to the ECU plug where you'll have about 6-8" of unshielded wire.

[nrmskate]

So, should my wiring most likely lie within or out of the shielded wire?

And I do in fact have a SOHC MAF, do I have to rewire it to work? Or is it a direct swap?

[Homer_Simpson]

So, should my wiring most likely lie within or out of the shielded wire?


When I had my problem, I suspected it to lies within the sport where I cut the shielded wire and lengthen it. With that, I would start looking at where the MAFS wire was spliced when you made your harness. The harness I'm working on right now, instead of splicing the shielded wires, I'm replacing them all with brand new shielded wires.

You will have to repin/rewire if you use a SOHC MAFS. I would go with the rewire path since I hates repinning the MAFS plug.

[nrmskate]

Sorry, im a little lost.

Was your problem wiring? If so, was it the shielded wire near the MAF? Or towards the ECU?

I didn't make a harness, and this is on a KA24DE, so it's all OEM.

[Homer_Simpson]

Sorry, im a little lost.

Was your problem wiring? If so, was it the shielded wire near the MAF? Or towards the ECU?

I didn't make a harness, and this is on a KA24DE, so it's all OEM.
For some reason I was under the impression that you have an SR, so disregards the bits about using the SOHC MAFS. Ultimately it was the wiring that was throwing the code. I traced my problem back to the shielded section near the ECU.

Since you have a KA and it is very likely that your harness has not been molested/tinkered with, I am convinced that it is your MAFS that has taken a dump on you. Find a DE MAFS, they're cheap. Worse case if you can't find one let me know, I have an OBDI S14 KA MAFS FS (not sure if it will work on S13 DOHC though).

[singlecamslam]

I had a knock sensor code this week, car ran like complete ass, black smoke, horeshit. Put a resistor on the ECU, runs like new. That rhymes.

[nrmskate]

Im confused on the resistor shit.

I understand the concept of it, of how it loops it straight back to the sensor.

But, I don't understand how to hook it up, especially near the ECU

[Homer_Simpson]

Im confused on the resistor shit.

I understand the concept of it, of how it loops it straight back to the sensor.

But, I don't understand how to hook it up, especially near the ECU
Just do it right by the intake manifold where the harness connect to the knock sensor subharness.

[nrmskate]

Okay, an update.

I still have no clue on how to hookup a resistor.

Anyways, I think there is a lifter tick, but not very bad, which is make the KS retard the timing.

I was talking to a mechanic and he said that if you had the engine running and hit the head hard enough the timing would change.

Anyways, if I just throw a resistor on it, will it fix that?

[singlecamslam]

Get a FSM and look at the ecu pinouts for the knock sensor. Get a 1 wa watt 1 meg resistor and put it there. You want to put the resistor by the ecu because if your harness is bad it wont do a thing. I have the pinout for a sr so cant help you there. Get a FSM online. This is all coming from Omikron, cause i had the same problem a week ago and he helped me out.

[Homer_Simpson]

Okay, an update.

I still have no clue on how to hookup a resistor.

Anyways, I think there is a lifter tick, but not very bad, which is make the KS retard the timing.

I was talking to a mechanic and he said that if you had the engine running and hit the head hard enough the timing would change.

Anyways, if I just throw a resistor on it, will it fix that?
It's basically like not having a knock sensor at all.