i'm cheap and i can't afford arms OR tires...

[p0onsta]

...but i'm lowered on Tein S-Techs.

Max adjustment of the camber arm gets me to -2.5* on each side.

I'd like to be ~-1.5*.

I can't afford arms, so I'm thinking about welding the holes shut and redrilling them.

Or even just slotting them...
Or slotting them and welding a washer on top of the slotted hole to still have a round bolt hole.

What I need to know is:
How far back should I slot the RUCA to move the camber 1*?
How far back should I slot the traction rod to support this camber move of 1*?
I'd like to maintain 0* toe. How far back should I be slotting the toe arm to achieve this?

Keep in mind that I'll be able to use the factory adjustment cam bolts still, so all I need to do is move it back so that instead of going from -2.5* to -3.5* camber, I get adjustment from -1* to -2* camber.

If anyone has aligned with adjustable arms and can measure their arm length vs. stock, it would be most helpful!!

Thanks in advance!

[lurch_fon]

if you have fabrication experience, why not build your own adjustable arms? Hit up a specialty hardware store (ie fastenal) get one reverse thread bolt and one regular thread, a piece of tubing and reuse the arm ends. 1" tubing with 3/16" wall should be more than sufficient. Uppers may be a little difficult, with having to bend the tubing, but a machine shop should be ale to pop out a piece of curved tubing for cheap.
Building one toe arm should cost as little around $10, and a little more for an upper

[p0onsta]

unfortunately, my fabrication experience does not involve welding, but i'm familiar with the concept, so I think i can get away with walking into a shop and trying to tack on a couple of washers: nothing more.

Would anybody happen to know how much the RUCA lengthens to make up for 1* of camber?