Bleeding Coolant System

[chentes14]

Im having trouble bleeding the coolant system..
i replaced the Radiator,thermostat,hoses,water pump.
and now i am tryting to bleed the system and ive tried it but it still overheats when i take it for a drive, i might not be doing it right.
people let me know the right way to bleed the system because i think i am not releasing all the air bubbles.
thanks!

[codunc]

start the car and let it run,
climate control set to full hot,
remove the bleed screw,
top off with coolant,
replace the screw.
you're done

[s13 @ fullboost]

first off what motor? I am assuming KA if so there is a bolt you must loosen to properly bleed. It is located on the block next to the intake mani if you search I am sure you will find a picture of what I am trying to explain to you (yes I know its not a great job but I am trying haha) good luck man

and the process on how to so is right above my post

[initial_drifter]

Loosen the gold bolt on the housing of the Upper hose. It's the highest point in the coolant system

Fill with coolant until you see a steady flow coming out.

Then tighten, Make sure you don't strip it!

Run the car for two cycles and adjust fluid level as necessary.

Have a nice day,

-Nick

[importdude]

Remove Bleeder Screw
remove rad cap
Full HEAT
Start car
Wait til u see water shooting out of the Bleeder valve(=thermostat opens=
Stop car and Reinstall bleeder screw
Leave Cap off and start car
Let idle for 10 mins with cap off

This has worked perfect for me

[I LUV MY S13]

search bro...this has been covered plenty of times

[chentes14]

yeah ive tried taking the rad cap off taking of the screw by the top hose, when the water was spitting up i turned of the car closed it back up, took it for a ride after a couple of minutes and it still overheated after 2 minutes of driving, im going to give it a try tomorrow morning, well see what happens thanks for the help!

[Homer_Simpson]

Get a Lisle funnel.

[chentes14]

Finally got it to work..
what i did is i took off that 10mm bolt not all the way almost off but not quite, with the rad cap off, and car jacked up, ran it for about 15 minutes let all the air bubbles then closed the bolt and closed rad cap, did that about 3 times then took it for a drive and it worked :)
... thanks for all the advice!

[94Silver]

Remove Bleeder Screw
remove rad cap
Full HEAT
Start car
Wait til u see water shooting out of the Bleeder valve(=thermostat opens=
Stop car and Reinstall bleeder screw
Leave Cap off and start car
Let idle for 10 mins with cap off

This has worked perfect for me

This was SUPER helpful just for anyone out there having the same issue follow this to the T and your problem will be fixed.

[TwoForties]

Remove Bleeder Screw
remove rad cap
Full HEAT
Start car
Wait til u see water shooting out of the Bleeder valve(=thermostat opens=
Stop car and Reinstall bleeder screw
Leave Cap off and start car
Let idle for 10 mins with cap off

This has worked perfect for me

Very late, but with the bleeder screw removed is the water/coolant literally supposed to shoot out? Because when I did this it just let out smoke and little squirts of water/coolant here and there.

[cotbu]

The objective of bleeding is to remove the air and replace it with liquids. I never had steam or smoke come out the bleeder port. I if i take the bleeder screw out, when bled? A continuous flow of coolant runs out, Im rushing to screw the screw back in at this point. Never check to see what happens if i leave it open.:banghead:

I still cant believe grown woman and men... nevermind!

From a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[Kingtal0n]

I've never had to warm the engine up either to get it to bleed. Literally done this 100+ times, never had a problem, cold engine, remove bleeder screw, fill radiator until you see some water spill out from the bleeder, re-install the screw, top off. Done.

Never had to jack the car up, run the engine, and ONLY run the heater if its the initial motor swap (heater core has a valve that closes and opens on some cars)

[StuckeyOG]

I've never had to warm the engine up either to get it to bleed. Literally done this 100+ times, never had a problem, cold engine, remove bleeder screw, fill radiator until you see some water spill out from the bleeder, re-install the screw, top off. Done.

Never had to jack the car up, run the engine, and ONLY run the heater if its the initial motor swap (heater core has a valve that closes and opens on some cars)

So if I bypassed the heater core a while back (bent the hose so that it bypasses) it might be causing me to overheat the way I would with a sticking thermostat?

I've been through 3 aftermarket and 2 OEM thermostats now and they all intermittently overheat even though I follow proper bleeding procedures. Everytime the top hose is very hot and the bottom hose is cold but pressurized. It's getting worse as of lately though and I can't figure out what it is.

[Crazyced]

I use nothing but this for all my cars now. Works awsome, no fuss.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=606

[w0nderbr3ad]

I've haven't used the coolant bleeder bolt since using a barb in it's place and using a PBM swirl pot.