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View Full Version : How would i go about get your rims redrilled


Zemus
04-13-2003, 07:11 PM
I have been looking at wheels, like other meshes, and their are a set of wheels i like (16x7 meshes that come stock on Crown Vics 97+ they have a HUGE lip and their very nice looking) and i can get them for 20$s a pop.

Only problem, their 5 bolt. I could do a lug swap, but i lack money. And i already have 2 sets of wheels for my car in 4 bolt, why swap over (it would be foolish for me to do it). But i thought, hey why not get them redrilled.

My questions:
1) What kind of places do it?
2) Do they fill in the old holes or just drill around them
3) Is it not good for them to drill the wheels
4) Whats an average price i will be looking at

SilviaDriver
04-13-2003, 07:19 PM
i would think redrilling rims would be dangerous kinda. i mean not many shops would redrill 4x100 into 4x114.3. so i dunno about redrilling 5lug into 4lug. make me the wheel a bit unstable?

adey
04-13-2003, 10:13 PM
the safest way to do what you want is... not to!
9-hole wheels are not safe, unless they came like that from the factory. I don't know man... I would go the route of an adaptor, although they often add as much as 1"+ of offset... Someone like wheelspacers.com (or was it wheeladaptors.com?) does that kind of thing.

240Stilo
04-14-2003, 03:33 AM
why are redrilled rotors safer?

soulDistortion
04-14-2003, 03:49 AM
Originally posted by 240Stilo
why are redrilled rotors safer?

think of how much weight a rotor has to support vs the weight a wheel has to support.

240Stilo
04-14-2003, 03:56 AM
When you hit the brakes, doesn't it put a lot of force on the rotors?

revat619
04-14-2003, 04:32 AM
i could be wrong, which is probably pretty likely, but when they redrill bolt patterns, dont they fill the old holes in with melted steel or some metal, let it dry, drill the new holes, then refinish to like new?

At least i know thats what they do when part of a wheel is missing. like if a chunk of the lip is gone, they melt on new metal, then sand it down or whatever to the original size and polish. And when done correctly, you cant even tell where the rim was repaired.

i gotta find the link where i saw that.

EDIT: geez, that took long enough, but yeah, this is what i was talking about when they repair rims with chunks missing out of them or something. anyway, here's the link

http://www.wheeltechniques.com/repair/repair.html

Zemus
04-14-2003, 09:39 AM
I might consiter a hub adapter, but im worried about it ****ing up the offset, humm, interesting. Ill really have to look into this.

two240s
04-14-2003, 02:46 PM
http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccsvcs.html


check out a place like this. they show $100 for a redrill.

adey
04-14-2003, 08:38 PM
With wheels, you have the outside "seat" where the lugs have to sit in, which also takes out quite a bit of material (the seats of 4 and 5 lug will eat into each other) whereas brake rotors are straight-through holes, leaving more meat between the holes (even though they're still quite close).

As for the weight -- the wheel feels just as much pressure/force as the brake hat (rotor) because it's the tires that are on the wheel... you know the saying, no doubt, that your brakes are only as good as your tires. You lock up the tires, there's no more force acting on the wheel's lug nuts as there is on the studs going through the brake rotor hat.
Add rotating mass (wheel is WAAAY more) and I would say wheels would be more prone to breaking/cracking... though I admittedly can't be sure. I hope I never find out!!

boro240
04-14-2003, 10:08 PM
Originally posted by Oni
How would i go about get your rims redrilled
youd BETTER NOT redrill my rims! ahaha, sorry i couldnt resist.