Desperate for help!!!

[vboy720]

ok so yesterday, but ignition switch finally gave out on me. I used to have to wiggle my key in a certain spot for my car to start, but after I got out of work yesterday, it would not start anymore. So I decided to do the push button start instead of buying a new ignition switch. I followed this reference, because I am a dumbass and need visuals for everything.

S2K push start w/ cruise control harness - Team Integra (http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=182154&ReturnPage=&PagePosition=1&ThreadPage=1)

That wiring is for an integra so the ylk/blk ignition and white/blk starter wires would be opposite from that diagram on a s14/240sx.

Well, I did everything exactly like how its supposed to be. When I put my key in, and turn it to the on possition, everything from acc, to fuel pump all turns on, except when I go to push the start button, it does not start....

I am completely lost and have been without my Daily Driver for 2 days now, and cannot get to work. Please, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and if you live in sacramento, and are willing to come to my house and do this, I will pay you and buy you a double cheese burger.

[s13silvia123]

black wire to ground. red wire to power. connect these to the starter.

then connect the wires a switch

or i can make you one

[vboy720]

that would be great if you could make me one, but there isnt just a red or a plain black wire...

[yukon]

Unplug the black/switch.

[KiLLeR2001]

Not sure if the wire colors are different for an S14 as far as ignition harness goes but on the S13 the blk/ylw wire is the starter (+) wire from ignition which changes to blk/wht when it reaches the harness in the car.

You'll want to connect your 87 to the white wire which is the 12V (+) source, and your 30 will be the blk/ylw wire which is from starter to harness (so essentially you'll be eliminating the useage of that wire from the harness at this point).

Splice your ignition on wire and add a wire that will connect to your 86. Make the Start button connected to a ground on the car somewhere that you know is good. That way when the button is pressed, the (-) signal is sent to the 85 which meets with the ignition on (+) signal on the 86 (only when key is on) and will send a 12V signal to the starter for as long as the button is pushed down.

Also, is your car a 5spd? Ever check out your clutch safety switch to see if its being pushed down all the way when trying to start it?

[vboy720]

i will try what you just said. My car is a 5spd, so it could be the clutch switch. I just spent $200 on a ignition and key assembly if all fails. The reason why I am doing this start button is because when I first bought this car, I would have to wiggle my key around in the ignition to find the sweet spot. But couple days ago, it finally gave up on me. :(

[yukon]

the switch is $34 at rock auto. the lock cylinder is $15. $107 if you want the entire assembly. you prob only need the switch.

[vboy720]

ok so when i wire a start button, do i tap into the blk/ylw and blk/white on the engine side of the harness or the ignition switch side?

[vboy720]

oh and also, i dont know if maybe this is why my start button doesnt work, but when i am tapping the starter wire, all i am doing is shoving some 18gauge wire into where the plug is. Am i supposed to completely cut out the wire and connect it like that, or just tapping it into the harness is ok?

[KiLLeR2001]

oh and also, i dont know if maybe this is why my start button doesnt work, but when i am tapping the starter wire, all i am doing is shoving some 18gauge wire into where the plug is. Am i supposed to completely cut out the wire and connect it like that, or just tapping it into the harness is ok?

In the event that you decide to replace your ignition switch all together, I would cut the blk/yellow wire leaving enough slack from the harness so that you could always solder it back together.

But at this point in time you'll just want to eliminate that connection. So cut the blk/ylw wire (about 2 or 3 inches away from harness). Then tape off the end that is connected to harness, and connect the other open end to your 30 on your bosch relay. You'll want to tap into your 12V (+) wire (do not cut) which I believe is a solid white wire and connect that to the 87. Make sure you use the same gauge wire, using smaller wire sometimes will make it heat up more and cause the wires to melt.

Then just hook up your push start button to a solid ground, and then connect that wire to the 85. Tap into your 'ignition on' wire (do not cut) with the same size gauge and connect that to your 86.

That way when ignition is on, and push button is pressed, the relay will make the connection from the 12V source to the starter, and should start the car. Also make sure the wire is connected to the starter securely, that wire is notorious for being loose or popping off entirely.

Good luck

[vboy720]

ok so i got a pretty good understanding of what you said except, there is a blk/ylw wire on the engine side of the harness and another one on the ignition switch side of it. But the wires for some reason do not cross over the harness the same, if that makes sense. (blk/ylw from engine, after the harness plug, will be a different color on the other side)

[vboy720]

bump.... clarification please? hold the flaming

[yukon]

bump.... clarification please? hold the flaming

its the same wire. the colour changes. there is only one bloody wire going from the bloody ignition switch to the starter. turn the key to start and this sends power down this wire to the starter. you dont want a stupid start switch. stop being a dumb person and follow instructions and buy a new switch. if you want to start your car in the interim, for the love of god, just momentarily touch the wire to the positive of the battery.

[KiLLeR2001]

It's not the same wire. The blk/ylw on the ignition switch side IS DIFFERENT than the blk/ylw on the engine side of the harness. It's easy to see if you are following the wire through the harness. You want to tap into the blk/ylw that is on the engine side of the harness that goes out into the chassis which essentially runs directly to the starter. The blk/ylw on the ignition side I believe is the 'ignition on' wire, although I'm not 100% on that. It's been a year or so since I installed my alarm system.

[yukon]

It's not the same wire. The blk/ylw on the ignition switch side IS DIFFERENT than the blk/ylw on the engine side of the harness. It's easy to see if you are following the wire through the harness. You want to tap into the blk/ylw that is on the engine side of the harness that goes out into the chassis which essentially runs directly to the starter. The blk/ylw on the ignition side I believe is the 'ignition on' wire, although I'm not 100% on that. It's been a year or so since I installed my alarm system.

black/yellow at the ignition switch sends start signal to the ecu when key is turned to start. the car will still start if you don't use this wire but it is harder to start. the black/white wire at the ignition switch is the furthest from accessory and sends 12v+ to starter. I'm not sure if the black/white wire changes colour at the harness but the black/white wire is black/white at the interlock relay(by battery) and changes to black/yellow as it leaves interlock relay to go to starter.

b/w,b/y,b/w,b/y . so the same wire probably changes colour 4 times.

[yukon]

OP, buy a new switch. People are telling you how to do this wrong. Almost everyone wires the start button wrong. There are two wires that need 12v positive to start car properly. listen to g6civcx. he knows best.


http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/166236-ignited-push-button-start-into-s13-troubles.html

[vboy720]

****UPDATE****

Damn it! Ok so I bought a new ignition cylinder and starter from autozone, plugged it up, turn key and no start. This is all the trouble shooting I have done so far.

1. Started car but taking a wire and tapping it to the starter and the battery. starter works fine.

2. Checked all Fuses at kick panel.

3. Checked fuses in engine bay.

4. Hear clicking at kick panel and engine bay when turned to start.

5. Checked all wires on both sides of starter harness for power either in on position or when turned to start position.

6. Switch thing under clutch pedal is fully pressed.

At this point I am lost. I do not know of anything else to do. Please can someone help me with this? Its been 6 days since I had my car driving fine, and I cant go on any longer asking and carpooling for rides to work. If you are in Sacramento area, I will pay you to take care of this!

[johngriff]

PM'd you!

Should be pretty straightforward.

[yukon]

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/7230/zzzvvro7.jpg

did you replace the ignition switch? this is what turns when you turn key. if you bought the lock assembly, then you would have got a new one obviously.

[vboy720]

I bought both a new switch and a key cylinder wich came with a new ignition switch. I bought both because I figured if one solved the problem, I can just return the other one. but still no cookie....

Thank Yukon for being of a lot of help. +1 for you

[yukon]

At this point, you really have to systematically trouble shoot with a multimeter to determine how far the 12v+ is getting on its travels towards the starter. A beginner is capable to doing this if they have a digital multimeter. Its a really simple circuit.

[vboy720]

***PROBLEM FIXED***

Ok so Mr. JohnGriff of rpsports was nice enough to come over and help me trouble shoot my car. First off, shout out to John, hella cool dude, that knows hella shit about cars. Usually when people help me with my car, they come over, fix the problem, and then leave. But John instead of fixing, also taught me so much shit about the 240sx starting system and all kinds of electrical stuff. He also let me see his new subframe support brace. Quality and is all I gotta say. Hope you make one for s14's soon! +10 for captain save a hoe :)

Anyways how we fixed it...

So John decided it was best that we started off from the very end and work backwords towards the ignition switch. So we started trouble shooting from the starter, to the clutch interlock relay, to clutch switch, to ignition harness, to ignition switch. Never ever missing to test for bad connectors, relays, fuses, etc. After a couple hours of checking every little component in the fsm diagram of the starting system, he found that there was no power, or ground, reaching the clutch interlock relay from the ignition switch, but everything worked fine.

So determining there is something wrong with the engine harness its self, it struck me. I remember seeing a harness, in the driver side wheel well. Whenever I took hard turns, I would smell some burning, and one day when I looked, I could tell my tire would rub on that harness. Well, about 2 weeks ago, I took my car to the track and was running it really hard. So to make a long story short, check it out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/vboy720/harness.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/vboy720/harness2.jpg

So after re-taping all the wires back together, since I did not have a soldering iron, and a new ignition switch; my car now starts fine, and I do not have to wiggle my key around anymore to start it.

Lol what pisses me off tho, is that I KNEW I wired that damn start button up correctly! But I dont give a rats ass about the start button anymore. If my car starts fine, ill leave it alone.

[yukon]

Thanks for reporting back. Buy a digital multimeter. Replacing parts to find problem is always a waste of money.