ka24de no power? timing? car is loud

[yoinkAzenki]

ok so i just finished up refreshing my motor. all new gaskets everywhere including head gasket. i followed all the fsm specs. the car was running perfect before but just wanted to change the gaskets.

the car starts and idles pretty normal. but when i rev it, the intake sounds really loud. i take it for a drive and its really really loud. its sounds like its reving at 6k but its reading only 3k and when i give it gas there is no power. it just gets louder and i go nowhere.

so im thinking its the timing. as i said before i followed all the fsm specs. i matched all the timing marks. made sure piston 1 was at tdc. also had a timing light to make sure it was at 20 btdc. but still has the same problem. i even did a compression check and its 195 across.

i do have a cel. its code 34 for the knock sensor. i noticed it was cracked so im going to change it. but i dont think a faulty knock sensor could retard my timing this much or affect the cars performace? other than that i have no idea whats wrong. so any ideas?

[Sergio180sx]

I had the same problem with my SR when i changed my Crank angle sensor but took the car to a shop and they fixed it it was the timimg for me it was waaaay off

[godsmack]

Kinda sounds like exhaust mani. leak. I've seen them go out right away even brand new and you will have a noticeable loss in power and it'll be louder. Might not be problem but something that's easy to check.

[s13pignose]

I just recently fooled with my knock sensor. Had code 34 too. You could try the resistor trick. From what I was told..plug you can plug a 1 mega ohm resistor (I got a 1/2 watt version) in the ecu plug, that connects to your sub harness (the harness b/w the ecu wire and the knock sensor itself). If the code 34 is gone..it means your sensor is bad. If the code is still there, your issue is wiring. Mine went away with the resistor, so I think I'll get a new sensor eventually. Do a search under my name, and you'll see threads I've made concerning this issue and the advice ppl have given me.

good luck. Also correct me if I'm wrong but when you throw code 34..your timing is retarded to like half of what it was or something..anyone chime in if I'm wrong

[yoinkAzenki]

Kinda sounds like exhaust mani. leak. I've seen them go out right away even brand new and you will have a noticeable loss in power and it'll be louder. Might not be problem but something that's easy to check.
definitely not an exhaust leak. yea its loud but im saying the intake is loud. its like it reving at 6k but im only reading 3k and im not going anywhere.
I just recently fooled with my knock sensor. Had code 34 too. You could try the resistor trick. From what I was told..plug you can plug a 1 mega ohm resistor (I got a 1/2 watt version) in the ecu plug, that connects to your sub harness (the harness b/w the ecu wire and the knock sensor itself). If the code 34 is gone..it means your sensor is bad. If the code is still there, your issue is wiring. Mine went away with the resistor, so I think I'll get a new sensor eventually. Do a search under my name, and you'll see threads I've made concerning this issue and the advice ppl have given me.

good luck. Also correct me if I'm wrong but when you throw code 34..your timing is retarded to like half of what it was or something..anyone chime in if I'm wrong

ill be sure to give that a try but i already ordered another knock sensor.

[yoinkAzenki]

ok so i tried the resistor thing for my knock sensor and i reset the ecu. there are no more codes but the car still has the same problem. the problem is the car has no power and feels sluggish. it idles pretty normal but when i take it for a drive the rpms raise slowly no matter how much i press the gas pedal. i can also hear my intake over my 3in exhaust.

i really think the timing is off but i already tried adjusting. i followed all the fsm specs, made sure all the timing marks were aligned, made sure cylinder 1 was at TDC, made sure the cam lobes on cylinder 1 were facing away from the motor, etc...

after all that i got the timing light to adjust the dizzy. this was a little difficult because of the idle. i disconnect the tps and try adjust the iacv to around 700rpms but i can barely get it. no matter how much i open the screw it barely gets to idle around 600rpms. and because of that its hard to read the timing marks when the lights flashing but i can still adjust it to 20BTDC... barely...

so i still think timing is off. im thinking maybe the timing chain is jumping a tooth? the only thing i change during the refresh was remove the egr system and remove 2 timing chain guides to get rid of my timing chain rattle. so any other ideas???

[osal]

i m havin the same problem...i tried everything except messing with the chain timing. update if u find ur fix

[rocksteady_racer]

I'm having the same problem with my S13 KA24E. Same exact symptoms. Maybe we have the same problem... You removed your EGR right? Because that's what I think mine is but if you removed yours that rules that out. My intake is manifold coated in black and my injectors seem like their dumping. Tried my new aermotive FPR and everything. The only thing I can think now is either EGR, Timing for some reason (like CAS sensor is messed up on the distributor or the chain is skipping but it doesn't look like there is any damage when I open my valve cover), or a valve cover leak somewhere. And everytime I check my spark plugs I'm running rich across the whole block not just one cylinder. And my compression is near perfect. So if you figure yours out that would be great :) LoL. My head is making a ticking sound too. So I think it's the chain but the only thing I removed off mine is the top guide unless the other two snapped off.

[yoinkAzenki]

ok so im having problems adjusting the idle. i want to set adjust the dizzy timing but i cant get the car to idle right. the car starts and idles normal like around 700rpms. but when i disconnect the tps the car barely idles like around 500rpms. i adjust the iacv screw to raise the rpms but no matter how far i unscrew it i can barely get it to idle around 600rpms. any reason why it would do this?

[rocksteady_racer]

Did you reroute the vacuum lines after removing the EGR? Sounds like a vacuum problem. My S13 starts up at 600 rpms then for some reason the ecu takes over and bumps it up to 1100 rpm. And after installing my FPR I noticed it keeps changing by itself so I'm pretty sure my problem is some sort of vacuum leak.

[yoinkAzenki]

Did you reroute the vacuum lines after removing the EGR? Sounds like a vacuum problem. My S13 starts up at 600 rpms then for some reason the ecu takes over and bumps it up to 1100 rpm. And after installing my FPR I noticed it keeps changing by itself so I'm pretty sure my problem is some sort of vacuum leak.

there was only one vacuum line i had to plug behind the intake manifold when i removed the egr, besides the actually egr block off plate. i also plugged up two vacuum lines on the front of the intake manifold that led to the carbon canister. other than that there are no vacuum leaks.

[silpena]

umm i know this might sound stupid, but is your intake pipe and filter and everything on right? no slights openings? It can make it sounds loud and not go anywhere. I did it when i intalled my cheapo ram air intake. I had the maf adapter on wrong :/

[yoinkAzenki]

umm i know this might sound stupid, but is your intake pipe and filter and everything on right? no slights openings? It can make it sounds loud and not go anywhere. I did it when i intalled my cheapo ram air intake. I had the maf adapter on wrong :/

yea everything is on correctly

[yoinkAzenki]

does anyone know the signs of incorrect timing? or the chain being off a tooth or jumping a tooth? i think my upper timing chain tensioner may be bad...

[Bigsyke]

Its not hard to remove the cover and lube the tensioner up with some pbblaster, and break that sucker loose.

The KS code will dump a ton of fuel and retard the timing. Your wiring must be completely shot or unplugged

[DoriftoPnoy]

bump. any ideas?

[240sxvaj]

is your motor a stock internal build? or race build?

if race then who tune your ecu?

i have a race build KA and my timing retards itself so my n/a ka feels alot weaker then stock. i have a Enthalpy ECU.

im not sure if my comment will help but then its worth a try.....rite?

[yoinkAzenki]

ok i just took my car to a mechanic to get the timing right. i just got it back and double checked the timing and its right where its supposed to be. so the timing is good but the car still has no power after 3k rpms. it idles and drives normal under 3k but as soon as i floor it there is no power and the rpms just climb really slow and the intake gets really loud.

on idle the intake sounds like its sucking in a lot of air. the vacuum sound is louder than normal.

also when i disconnect the maf the car doesnt die, it just idles higher. i switched out the maf with my friends working car and still same problem. i also checked the wiring and its good.

ive also cleaned out the iacv, checked the tps, and disconnected each injector and they all checked out fine.

maybe a vacuum leak but the only thing i removed was the egr and i plugged up what was removed.

[osal]

did u fix ur problem??..please update if u did

[Tantwoforty]

hmm, when my ka did this it was cam timing, just for kicks do a compression test and make sure you are getting good fuel pressure and spark.. other than that idk

[yoinkAzenki]

yea problem fixed. lower timing chain was off...

[osal]

did u fix it urself? or did u have a shop redo ur chain timing for you? if so how much did they charge u??

[M11's]

did u fix it urself? or did u have a shop redo ur chain timing for you? if so how much did they charge u??

probably cut his arm off for the fix

[ceezer]

does anyone know if he meant that it was off by a tooth or completely off?