Code 35..exhaust gas temp sensor????

[s13pignose]

Just threw that code today..first timing since I bought the car years ago lol. I don't even know what the sensor looks like? Anybody can tell me where to locate it on the car and why i threw the code? I have a knock sensor code too 34, but already knew about that..other than that I just had my exhaust done about 2.5 weeks ago..new everything up the stock exhaust manifold. Within that 2.5weeks of having it own if not longer..never have I thrown this code. it just popped up.

Appreciate any info..I guess since I threw that code means I have a cali car? I'm from va..so I guess I get the burden lol

[s13pignose]

Anyone? It came back today..so I sense this is going to be an ongoing thing.

Thanks for any help

[Forge_55b]

If you are having the knock code come up, you have advanced timing or bad gas or a combination of both. EGT I have no idea, I just know of the O2 sensor after the cat or in the cat? i forgot on my 97 from california.

Need more info, what year and if its code 34 and 35 explain exactly how you got those codes.

[s13pignose]

95 ka auto..I serious believe the knock code is the wiring or sensor it'self. I run 93 all the time, I keep up with maintenance (plugs, fuel filters, etc.) so those can't be the reasons. The 35 just popped up like the other day..so far 3 times since then.

[s13pignose]

Okay managed to get rid of my knock code using resistor trick, but this exhaust temp sensor code keeps popping up..also noticed my egr valve isn't lifting up on its own when I rev..I dunno how high I need to rev the motor but I turned the throttle pulley about a inch and no movement from the egr.

Would that be because of the sensor..or is my temp sensor code because of the egr (not moving)?

[orion::S14]

The EGR temp sensor (responsible for this code) can also be eliminated with a resistor.

It's on the intake manifold, between the 2 + 3 runners...or maybe it's the 3 + 4 runners (?). BUT, it's a small sensor, black in color...2 thin black wires going to it. Has a standard 2-wire plug, runs off the same harness as the TB, MAF, injectors, etc...

Chances are, the EGR isn't working...and the sensor isn;t seeing hotter-than-normal IAT's when the EGR is supposed to be open. The ECU only checks resistance supplied by this sensor when the EGR is supposed to be open (the exact conditions are outlined in the FSM).

ANyway, just find it...and replace it with a resistor.

IF the EGR is malfunctioning, and you live in a state where you can get rid of it...do that. otherwise, just block the exhaust manifold 'line' with a nickel, and screw it back on. Voila! No EGR flow to the intake manifold, no codes (with resistor, of course).

- Brian

[s13pignose]

Yeah I livein VA so shouldn't be a problem. I rev'd the car higher this time..and I don't think I felt any movement...kinda hard to tell when the engine rocks towards you. The sensor I saw looks like a bolt with a wire looks like it has a nylon outside or something which runs to a big connector.

I thought egr helped keep cylinder temps down or something..my main reason for keeping and i didn't want to fool with the hard line to the exhaust manifold.

BTW on another note got my sub harness and knock sensor off. The connector the sensor plugs into on the harness, when I took it off I see it only has two holes for the sensor to plug into , but only one has a terminal. The sensor has two..so what does the other side make contact too when you plug it in????

Thanks for the info. Hey do you know if code exhaust temp sensor code throws the ecu in limp affecting mpg and power?

[s13pignose]

Also I may misunderstood what you said..but to disable egr..you really don't have to touch anything on or near the intake manifold...just bllock off the hardline to the manifold and run a resistor on the harness for the temp sensor? Why do people do blockoffs for the intake manifold. Also with the egr at that point being non functioning, what about the vac hoses..just leave em on?

[s13pignose]

Tell me this I had a problem with part of my wiring harness that I got fixed...guy said it was a broken ecu ground wire that was barely intact thanks to insulation. he fixed it, and about a week later I think is when I got this code 35. If it resulted from his fixing that one wire, it should have thrown a CEL then and not now all of a sudden?

I'm trying to isolate my problems here, and make sure one has nothing to do with the other. Cause I've had to deal with that one harness wire, the code 35, and a code 34 which I solved through testing with a resistor.

I think I'd kinda like to keep the egr, so I need to figure out what the problem is so this CEL doesn't come back and I can be code free for first time in like 4 months