View Full Version : Turbo doesnt kick
bananamonkey
05-25-2009, 06:09 PM
i had recently swapped out my stock turbo (sr20det redtop) with the gt28 s15 turbo because i thought the stock turbo was going bad. BUT for some reason after i changed it out the boost still doesn't kick, the turbo doesn't feel like its boosting, it spools but you cant hear it like before when it really kicked
:cry:
So i was wondering what could be the causes for a turbo to not boost,
1) Would the MAF be a reason for it not to boost? <Or Injectors?( not getting enough fuel?)>
2) You cant change the boost without tuning the car or no boost controller or type of controller installed right?
RPSil13
05-25-2009, 06:12 PM
did you just recently swap the motor in, did it run fine before, it sounds like a boost leak
bananamonkey
05-25-2009, 06:32 PM
well i had it swapped a long time ago and the old one was leaking so i replaced the stock manifold along with the turbo. so now im running tomei headers with s15 turbo and everything is leak free, im still running side mount but before it still kicked harder now it just feels like the same thing as the leaky old turbo. It just feels like im running all motor, so im just wondering now if it has to do with the MAF effecting the boost or can it be injectors? i wish i knew more about what i was talking about
HS13KLS
05-25-2009, 06:58 PM
i really dont know, but my buddy did have a eclipse that did that, and it was hitting a knock sensor, so it wouldnt boost. it would just spool
godsmack
05-25-2009, 09:28 PM
Actuator might be bad as well as you might have a cracked header. Check to make sure your actuator has some tension and that the bar is still hooked up.
godzilla_753
05-25-2009, 09:58 PM
not gonna lie, i have the same problem, shit is WEAK
swapped from a t25 to a gtir t28 and it doesnt kick.
i did realize my hks ssqv wasnt seated properly in the flange, make sure your bov is properly seated (mine had a snap ring that wasnt seated). still didnt help my problem, interested in what people have to say in this thread
godsmack
05-25-2009, 10:08 PM
i'm still going to go with the actuator if you're car isn't going into limp mode and feels like an N/A sr.
NMs14.5kouki
05-25-2009, 10:16 PM
yea im going to agree with the actuator, had a similar thing happen to me, had the c clip break and wasnt boosting, felt like a n/a sr.
bananamonkey
05-26-2009, 12:12 AM
yea im going to agree with the actuator, had a similar thing happen to me, had the c clip break and wasnt boosting, felt like a n/a sr.
well i wish i could agree with that too but the turbo is brand new and actuator is brand new with it so im not 100% gona say it is but im sure that cant be it being new out of hte box. So the MAF has nothing to do with the boost at all then ? and hmm crack head would that be internally where i wouldnt be able to tell by sound or by sight?
SoguRacing
05-26-2009, 12:20 AM
maybe you have a blown head gasket.
Somnambulist
05-26-2009, 12:22 AM
Have you done a boost leak test?
bananamonkey
06-04-2009, 09:24 PM
maybe you have a blown head gasket.
well i had gotten a new head with metal head gasket went through 2 before it was done right so the gasket should be ok and the radiator doesnt gush when i open the cap so that means there should be no leak no?:duh:
bananamonkey
06-04-2009, 09:27 PM
Have you done a boost leak test?
no i havent tried that yet but maybe i should when i have the time cause i just ran through the simple checks so far and all seems fair game :duh:
ILoveJDM
06-04-2009, 09:35 PM
you have a massive boost leak
midnight_rex
06-05-2009, 02:10 AM
did you purchase the turbo brand new? if so then u shouldn't have a problem with the actuator (unless its adjustable?). also check all your pipes for boost leaks. get some soapy water and check all couplings while revving the motor.
steve shadows
06-07-2009, 08:20 PM
it sounds like timing possibly
when timing is too retarded on boost you can get this kind of dead leg feeling in the acceleration
bl3ujay07
06-07-2009, 09:41 PM
^^^I agree with timing. My timing was off by half a tooth or a tooth (forgot) and it felt like a n/a sr20 until 4k rpm. You can hear the turbo the whole way, just does not feel boost until certain rpm.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/224840-sr20det-lag-full-boost-4k-rpm.html
Thats the link to my thread. Did everything from boost leak test, changed good new/used working turbo, knock sensor, injectors etc. Take off your valve cover and make sure timing is right. Dont just use a timing gun, had shop check and said timing was correct, which it was not.
djcobra
06-07-2009, 10:29 PM
^^ I agree with you to some extent, but i'd recommned using the timing light gun always!
When you install aftermarket cams, along with other goodies, ie head gasket, valve springs, cams etc... and you restab the CAS according to the FSM, please don't assume your timing is at 15 deg. Your timing is and will be different when checked with a timing gun. Also make sure you hook up your timing gun properly, either using high tension spark plug wire between the coil pack and spark plug, or using the loop line on the stock coil pack harness (I have splitfires, thus i have to use the first method).
With all my mods I had to rotate the CAS clockwise towards the engine to read it at 15 deg. I had the car idle around 850rpm in order to check and adjust my timing (i'm using powerFC so I can mess around with the idle etc...)
Steve.
bananamonkey
06-10-2009, 04:21 PM
^^ I agree with you to some extent, but i'd recommned using the timing light gun always!
When you install aftermarket cams, along with other goodies, ie head gasket, valve springs, cams etc... and you restab the CAS according to the FSM, please don't assume your timing is at 15 deg. Your timing is and will be different when checked with a timing gun. Also make sure you hook up your timing gun properly, either using high tension spark plug wire between the coil pack and spark plug, or using the loop line on the stock coil pack harness (I have splitfires, thus i have to use the first method).
With all my mods I had to rotate the CAS clockwise towards the engine to read it at 15 deg. I had the car idle around 850rpm in order to check and adjust my timing (i'm using powerFC so I can mess around with the idle etc...)
Steve.
So quick question can the CAS effect it at all or more overall it would mainly be the timing itself? and not the CAS then?:hyper:
godsmack
06-11-2009, 05:51 AM
if you have an aftermarket actuator you need to adjust it or it will open under little to no pressure. it might be timing but i really doubt it. your bov might be stuck open as well.
do you even have a boost gauge?
what is it boosting at.? and when?
what is your exact setup.
sr with tomei header t28. what elbow and downpipe.
check fuel pressure. swap out maf if you like but highly unlikely. if maf were bad then idle would b gay.
actuator could be bad from out the box. well not bad but they dont handle much. would upgrade to hks.
check for boost leaks. from piping. check timing. check if your turbo even spins freely.
check vacuum maybe you have a clogged exhaust.
either get a vacuum gauge. or thug life it and open down pipe to see if your power is better. haha
fliprayzin240sx
06-11-2009, 07:54 AM
+1 on the timing...
bl3ujay07
06-12-2009, 01:29 AM
op, check timing both ways, but take off valve cover and make sure timing is right first, then use timing gun to adjust cas.
bo2o, does it really matter what elbow and dp he has? Stock or not, you'll know if the turbo is boosting or not right? And clogged exhaust??? What can possibly get clogged in the exhaust?? Not trying to bash, but inform me.
bananamonkey
07-04-2009, 11:32 AM
ok i checked the timing seems good to me i too it to my buddies shop had him check it he told me that it was done right the second time around cause the first time it was wrong then we got it redone right,
i checked a lot of the pipes and stuff it seems to have had some minor splits replaced those idles better now
and found out that my BoV is messed up and staying ope so i bought a new one from HKS with hotpipe
i have a lot more to check out but after these ill get back on it really appreciate the information guys opened my eyes to more than just what i thought it could be
bananamonkey
07-05-2009, 03:52 PM
if you have an aftermarket actuator you need to adjust it or it will open under little to no pressure. it might be timing but i really doubt it. your bov might be stuck open as well.
great call on the stuck open BoV found out it was broken and replaced it with a new BoV from HKS and it pulls harder than ever now thanks a lot guys this is why i love true nissan people, in the streets and on the forums you never get no bs from them thanks a lot :fruit::fruit::fruit:
close thread
krazyfil
07-05-2009, 04:22 PM
kinda had the same the problem, still stock turbo.. but timing was all messed up but when turbo kicked in it literally through us back... (intake cam was retarded 4.5 degrees) but since we adjusted it, its just blah and it feels like my old KA with bolt ons galore... so hopefully its nothing too serious
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