Chix's RB25/S13 build thread

[chixwithtrix]

This build from lame KA S13 to RB25 swapped work in progress has been going on since late 2007. Below is the entire build up until a few months ago. TONS of pics...

So here is my car, a '91 black 240sx. Bought it in 2007 around Thanksgiving and immediately tore it down to make it drift ready, the first part of the thread will include those mods. Rest of the thread is the RB25 engine install and chassis upgrades.

Current Modifications

Engine/Performance
-R33 series 2 RB25det with HKS head gasket, head studs
-Greddy RB25 intake manifold
-Garrett 3076r .82ar turbo
-6Boost tubular manifold
-Power FC stand alone ecu
-z32 maf
-Nismo fuel pressure regulator
-Tomei 740cc injectors
-McKinney custom engine mounts
-Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft
-Nismo copper mix clutch/flywheel package
-Welded differential
-Griffin aluminum radiator
-3" intercooler v-mount
-HKS sequential BOV
-dual e-fans
-3" downpipe to straight pipe
-ATV battery
-Summit fuel pressure gauge


Suspension/Wheels
-Tein front coilovers, JIC rear coilovers
-Tien Camber Plates
-Tein front Tension rods
-Aftermarket Sway bars
-SPL Subframe Spacers
-SPL Rear upper control arms
-diff brace
-SPL adjustable toe links
-SPL braided front/rear brake lines
-Replaced Hicas subframe with regular subframe
-ABS delete
-5-lug hubs
-5Zigen 17X10 +12 offset wheels
-Cobra 17" wheels


Exterior
-Seibon carbon fiber rear hatch w/ lexan window
-custom vented stock hoof
-30mm rear overfenders
-M-Sports body kit


Interior
-5 pt racing harness
-SPL bucket racing seat
-Removed rear seat/seatbelts/carpet and painted black
-Dash switch panel for start switch and e-fans
-Dash gauge cluster
-HKS boost gauge
-Greddy oil pressure gauge
-stripped sound deadening


http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/ash.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7555.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2079.jpg

Since this has been posted before the ______ will separate posts and signify time passing


Original Build - Christmas 2007

1st drift event right after we bought the car - cheap lugs were tightened too hard and stripped causing 3 studs to sheer off in in the rear. The rear drivers side brakes kept locking up and had to be bled and freed up a few times. The power steering had some kind of leak and it was like moving an elephant around the track (hicas equipped car). The stock seats were so bad I was lifting off the throttle to brace myself.

stock engine bay
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car.JPG

New Koyo radiator installed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car6.JPG

Yeah...125K miles KA
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car7.JPG

New gauge cluster
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car8.JPG

Pulled tranny for clutch swap
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car18.JPG

flywheel...yuck
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car20.JPG

New 6 puck clutch
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car27.JPG

Putting on Seibon carbon fiber hatch/lexan window woohoo!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car34.JPG

Cleaning off the valve cover
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car38.JPG

Almost finished cover
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car41.JPG

On the car
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car43.JPG

Goodies - SPL brake lines for all 4, subframe bushings (later traded for subframe spacers, ran out of time)
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car44.JPG

Putting on the brake lines, ARP studs
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car47.JPG

New intake setup, pulled battery and relocated in hatch, less heat soak and shorter. Cheap 'n good!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car52.JPG

Bad power steering pressure line.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car521.JPG

Picked up a normal power steering line, had to modify the banjo part to fit, metal grinder is good.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car54.JPG

VLSD out, welded diff in
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car56.JPG

Cleaned up engine bay!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car77.JPG

Picked up a bucket racing seat w/ 5 pt harness. Now I'll stay in that damn seat! Also threw an S14 seat w/ 4 pt harness in the passenger.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car72.JPG

Misc changes before RB25 swap

Paint was fogging in the center of the hood and on the roof. Used a couple grits of rubbing compound to clear it up. This is not finished here, came out very smooth and black
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_3284.jpg

Bought the car with KYB AGX suspension, took it to a few drift events and it was quite soft. Time to get rid of them
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_3310.jpg

A buddy traded us his Koni threaded shocks w/ Eibach lowering springs and Tien camber plates. Nice to get it for free hehe. Much stiffer and more tunable.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_3313.jpg

After a drift event we picked up this CF hood for cheap, was in a wreck and was not fixed correctly. The front darker parts are covered with sticky, unhardened resin..yuck.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/hood/IMG_4021.jpg

Ended up having to remove the resin with physical force, ground it off
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/hood/IMG_4343.jpg

The dull areas are the stripped parts, and the lumpy looking areas are...well lumps of unhardened resin. PITA to sand that down, still working on it, more pics to come from the hood
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/hood/IMG_4326.jpg

[chixwithtrix]

RB25det Swap mid 2008

Pulling the RB from the truck...might have been harder then trying to get it into the car haha
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/truck.jpg

mmmmmm
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/engine.jpg

Greddy Intake manifold
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/intake.jpg
HKS turbo
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/turbo.jpg

Going to use the McKinney mounts for the swap, new Tomei 740cc injectors
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/inj.jpg

Apexi PFC ECU
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/comp.jpg

Ordered a few more parts, some Gates belts, a Greddy timing belt and oem tensioner.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/belts.jpg

Engine was pulled by 2AM, the plan is to get the engine bay cleaned up and start assembling the RB's peripherals

Pulled in the garage, the KA's last run
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/before.jpg

Did a compression test on it - 150, 150, 140, 145
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/compr.jpg

Before
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/e1.jpg

During...forgot to drain the tranny and it drained all over the garage floor and down the driveway a bit before we could get a container under it. Now it smells nasty in the garage
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/pull.jpg

Engine out, time to get to work on the engine bay
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/out.jpg

started out first seeing how the radiator/intercooler setup would work, too tight for the length of the RB
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4868.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4872.jpg

Cutting the support to make more room, will fab in another brace later. Going to make it easier to get the engine in the car as well, good with our limited space.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4875.jpg

Checking the fit
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4877.jpg

Getting some more room for the lower rad hookup and cleaning up
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4878.jpg

Greasy, grimy engine bay cleaning and prepping
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4892.jpg

Yuck...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4891.jpg

De-greased and painted. Did not get to finish stitch welding as the wire ran out. Looking a lot better!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4897.jpg

Replaced with Greddy timing belt and put in a new OEM tensioner, from old belt coming off to new belt on it took about 10 minutes...so nice to be able to have full access to the engine.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4895.jpg

Day 3 and 4

Came out to the garage in the morning and the RB had left us a present…an 8 foot long oil slick that was draining down our driveway all night. Took almost an hour for me to clean it up.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4911.jpg

Putting on the Greddy manifold and the throttle body
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4912.jpg

Hicas crap removed for good
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4913.jpg

Yay for wiring
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4916.jpg

Re-wired harness
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4918.jpg

McKinney mounts installed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4922.jpg

Getting the turbo plumbed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4928.jpg

Replaced the caps with nice new ones
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4942.jpg

The 240 awaits
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4944.jpg

Getting the 240 in place. We live on a hill…no engine, no problem! Just pushed it in with the F250
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4946.jpg

Beginning to fit in the engine. Removing that core support was a great idea!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4948.jpg

Almost there, had to pull it out once to bang on the firewall some more, but it went in pretty smooth. Used a jack on the back of the tranny and just pushed the engine in while lowering both jacks one at a time.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4954.jpg

In with room to spare. Now we need to get all of the little items finished.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4967.jpg

Intercooler came in today, 4 inch core with 3 inch outlets/piping
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5307.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5310.jpg

Custom aluminum driveshaft goodness
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5304.jpg

Fitting the hood w/ previous intercooler and rad...hood still needs some sanding, fiberglass, finessing, and clearcoat...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4979.jpg

Spent $125 at the auto parts store buying a special belt for the power steering since the normal R33 ps pump pulley was f'd up. Also bought 4 radiator hoses to scavenge parts of for the custom rad setup...and finished it off with other misc parts before getting out the door.

Intercooler/radiator setup so far
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5879.jpg

Managed to salvage the stock core support and welded it back in
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5882.jpg

Subframe swap

The new subframe is finally in the car. That was a very time consuming task and not to mention a huge pain in the ass. Hicas is now outta there! In the last few days we've been working on installing the rad/intercooler, finishing up the hood, installing new fuel lines/300zx fuel filter, bolting the turbo up, and I installed (is not wired in yet) the walbro fuel pump. Yay, things are slowly coming together.

Pics...

In the process of ripping the hicas subframe out and putting a normal one in...just waiting on a passenger side knuckle right now and that should be back in shortly
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_4981.jpg

The subframe swappage
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5852.jpg

Old pos hicas subframe
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5868.jpg

Cleaned and repainted the new one
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5871.jpg

Installed!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_5878.jpg

1st drift event with RB25 Oct 2008

10/19/08
well, got to go out on the track....amazing! Engine ran great, started at 8 PSI and pulled it up to about 14 (was tuned previously for 19). Had lots of fun, wasn't expecting to drift it much, but the engine was running great. Since the last post we got the BOV welded up, a straightpipe exhaust, cleaned some wiring, and buttoned it up more. Put in a start switch, e-fans, ps belt. Still needs a lot of finishing work and some body parts, but we had a kick *** time yesterday...even if we were up over 36 hours.

Not too many problems, had some lifter tap on and off that need to be bled, but I was already told about that...joy. Blew off the piping a few times, then during the burnout a cheap coupler blew a hole in it. Tranny and clutch felt so smooth and tight, engine extremely smooth and a sumo load of power compared to the 90hp KA haha. We drifted horribly since we were so tired, but very happy to get the engine running.

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6039.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6045.jpg

shitty tires
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6051.jpg

Bay
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6055.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6063.jpg

Also here is a cool little video I put together after we drove all the way home from the event. Shows the video of entire swap and some sound/drifting clips at the event.

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/rbinstall.wmv

[chixwithtrix]

Continuing Build

Ordered fuel pressure, EGT, water temp and oil pressure gauges yesterday so we'll have to install those when they come in.

Yesterday and today I bled the lifters so they hopefully won't tap anymore. Pretty much all of them had to be bled of air, took freaking forever! Engine is re-timed and the cam gears/cams are all installed now. Just waiting on the valve cover sanding/painting before I start it up to make sure everything came out alright. Here are some pics

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6467.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6482.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6485.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6487.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6490.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6492.jpg

____________________________

Now we're down to the more custom work of the build. Not going to make it to the next drift event this coming wekend, too busy, too broke and too many parts that need to be put on the car. Plus this stuff shouldn't be rushed.

First thing after the lifter bleeding was to paint the nasty valve covers. Here they are before being stripped:
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6498.jpg

One stripped, on primered
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6501.jpg

Black paint drying
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6509.jpg

On the engine:
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6578.jpg

After bleeding the lifters and painting the covers I put everything back together and started it up. Ran great, supoer smooth and in-time. Unfortunately after about 2 seconds of running a strange tap started coming from the front of the engine. Narrowed it down to the water pump, and/or something under the timing belt covers...time to pull everything apart again.

So after everything was removed again I pulled the water pump. The shaft was slightly bent, most likely from the front end wreck the skyline this engine was in had. Hard to tell, but it had a bit of a wobble. Lokked pretty new inside
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6589.jpg

Also pulled the timing belt tensioner and idler, the idler was old so wanted to order another one in case it was one of the problems
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6590.jpg

Finally all of the parts I ordered came in. Since most of the dash gauges are bad or don't work I ordered a little Greddy oil presure gauge, STRI water temp and EGT, and a Summit fuel pressure gauge/adapter. Picked up a new idler, and a N1 ater pump for increased efficiency at higher RPM to replace the bent stock one. Lastly a few reducing couplers from the intercooler piping to the turbo elbow (blew the old coupler up) and intercooler piping to the odd throttle body size.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6647.jpg

I've been working on cleaning up the engine bay's appearance. Cleaned off the grime from the intake mani, tucked the injector wiring, bundled up the main harness and started work on re-routing the under-manifold wires/hoses. Still need to wrap harness, clean more and paint a bit, but its coming along.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6597.jpg

Lastly the install of the fuel pressure gauge. Had a T adapter to screw into, separated the lines and started the install. Planning to relocate the fuel filter a bit higher above the wiring harness to have good, clean visibility of the gauge.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/novon/IMG_6605.jpg

________________________________

Last weekend I got the new N1 water pump installed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/pump.jpg

New pump, idler and tensioner. Put the timing belt on again
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6662.jpg

Front covers are ugly, time to paint
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6663.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6668.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6678.jpg

Installed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6682.jpg

Bay how it looked a few days ago. Did some more painting in the bay w/ satin black. Removed cruise control and wiring seems to be under control on the passenger side. AAC tube needs some relocation. Also installed new coupler to the throttle body
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6741.jpg

I took it upon myself to strip the interior (I needed to pull passenger seat to remove the belt to use in my other new 240 anyway). Starting:
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6753.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6755.jpg

Seats removed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6760.jpg

Me about to rip out carpet
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6767.jpg

Racing zard!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6768.jpg

carpet out
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6772.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/post2/IMG_6774.jpg

Suspension upgrades

Ian picked up a coupe shell with suspension for cheap from a guy north of Austin

Started removing the rear hubs and suspension parts on the coupe today. The coupe is supposed to have a 300ZX diff and axles.

At the last drift event I had some trouble with the throttle jamming wide open and found out it was some wires in the way and promptly moved them. Other than that engine ran great and I could see what was going on with it from the new gauges which was nice. I pretty much spun all the time on the 4th gear entry, running used 225s with 300+ whp doesn't cut it obviously, but these events were mostly a shakedown for the new swap and engine that hadn't ran in years so I'm not disappointed. Planning on having 5 lug at the next event with some new rubber...yay consistency!

Anyway, here are the pics

Coupe roller
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6937.jpg

Before removal
Anyone know who makes these suspension parts? I already have the same RUCAs on the car, but I'll be putting on the rest of the stuff and possibly swapping the axles/diff if its worth it
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6939.jpg

All off the car, just need to swap it onto the black hatch and do the fronts too
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_6957.jpg

[chixwithtrix]

Body Work

Finally some updates after the Christmas rush and spending most of my time away from home. Lots of new (well, most are used and battered) parts for the new year. After the engine swap and suspension I'm finally focusing on some aesthetics.

The latest stuff includes...
Rear 30mm overfenders
Front 30mm wide fenders
Full M-Sports body kit
5Zigen fno1r-c 5 lug 17X10 +12 offset silver wheels for the rear
Set of 255/40/17 and 235/40/17 Federal 595s
Stripping interior for stitch welding

Here are the front and rear fenders, both sets are pretty scarred. The rear fenders have cracks and the fronts have pieces missing...all fixable though.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7088.jpg

Ian working on the cracked drivers side rear fender. Glassed the back and bondo'd and sanded the front where all the cracks and broken rivet holes were.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7112.jpg

M-Sports S13 hatch kit with minor damage
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7122.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7123.jpg

Picked up my fn01r-c set from SPL, unfortunately one was the wrong color from the factory so I'll need to exchange for the right one.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7106.jpg

Tires just came in yesterday...stack on the right is for Ian's miata, stack on the left is mine.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7119.jpg

Still working on stripping sound deadening out of the car. Dry ice worked for most of the stuff, but the deadening on the tranny tunnel and on the wheel wells was a pain in the ass even with dry ice so I melted and scraped it off. Now I just need to sand down the leftovers, clean it up and get it stitch welded.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7110.jpg

Will have to keep updating with the progress on all of the body work as it comes along.
_____________________________

some more body work...

Ian sanded and bondo'd more on the almost cracked in half drivers side fender. No more dimples, all holes are filled, and the corners rounded and cut...even kept the finishing line thing. Painted and now needs to be buffed out.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0041.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0036.jpg


http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0044.jpg

And some close shots of the front bumper...found about 4 cracks and glassed them, need to construct a wire thing where the missing part is for the new fiberglass...then more bondo.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0055.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0060.jpg
____________________________

more body work

Sanding and more paint, still need to buff and clear
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7129.jpg

Ian fixing the front bumper's missing chunk
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7130.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7134.jpg

All the vinyl removed and front bumper almost done
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7139.jpg

Getting ready to sand
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7146.jpg

Primer
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7148.jpg

Other skirt was chipped, before I started bondo work on it
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3352/3177974298_f694a390d6_o.jpg

The skirt after I partially sanded
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3471/3177974338_430a6e1a5b_o.jpg

Ready for cleaning and paint http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3428/3177138551_007dcd2a78_o.jpg
___________________________

Rear suspension is fully adjustable and 5-lug now.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7182.jpg


http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7186.jpg

Primered the bumpers
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7157.jpg
____________________________

here are the updates that happened before the turbo blew


http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7197.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7200.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7205.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7211.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7214.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7224.jpg

Alignment after I put on all the suspension links and before alignment
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7328.jpg

After - had the alignment done at NTB, $180 for 5 year alignments and they let me in under the lift and such
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7329.jpg

After I took the car out at the drift event and found no boost, opened up intercooler piping to find this :(
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7369.jpg

didn't have time to polish the body kit, but it came out nice, didn't get a chance to put on rear bumper. Needs to be lower...but this is as low as it can go and still get in my driveway...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7356.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_7555.jpg
________________________

Caged Shell

Just got back from picking up the S13 shell for the fresh start to my drift car (Michelle, the black RB S13) build. With this project I'm planning on building the car up from the ground better than the current chassis then I'll swap everything over.

Currently the shell has:
-6pt cage w/o door bars
-stripped sound deadening
-50mm rear overfenders
-30mm front fenders
-bushinged rack
-cut and folded fenders

For now the project is on hold until I can find a storage facility or something in Austin; had to leave the shell back on the family land in Houston for now. Updates to come....

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0134.jpg

Interior
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0135.jpg

No windshield...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0136.jpg

Clean bay
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0137.jpg

Fenders
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0148.jpg

________________________

Continuing build

Yes, finally another update! posted March 10th, 2009

First we chased the FedEx man down for a new turbo...

I've been looking for a new turbo after the 2835's seals went. Found a good deal on one NIB so I picked it up. Ian and I were driving into the neighborhood last Friday and saw a FedEx truck about to leave, Ian pulled the little truck's ebrake and tried to swing it around (mostly failing lol, old Tacoma), and go chase the FedEx man down before he turned onto the highway. He did indeed have the package and we brought it home to open it up...

Garrett 3076r w/ .82 and 1.06 exhaust houstings. Hopefully soon the RB will be back in business with mopowah!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0418%20%28Medium%29.jpg

Next thing is that I picked up a shop with Ian, Tyler and some other friends. As I've said in this thread the space at our house is bad, and that damn hill driveway sucks since I couldn't lower my car any more. We started looking a few months ago and found a place the end of last month. Hopefully good things will start happeneing with the addition of the shop...still a lot of work to be done organizing and stocking.

Our garage after a little cleaning
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0430%20%28Medium%29.jpg

The small storage facility that got overwhelmed too quick...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0383%20%28Medium%29.jpg

The shop at the beginning
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0375%20%28Medium%29.jpg

Our stuff is just thrown in there for now, we will be building shelving to make more room
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0496%20%28Medium%29.jpg

The shop as it was a few days ago, the G20 has now been moved outside. Once we get some time we will organize the shop better. Looking forward to Spring Break when we can finish moving in!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/IMG_0531%20%28Medium%29.jpg

I should be taking my RB 240 over there soon as well as bringing up my caged shell in Houston. Spring break is next week and we'll probably be living at the shop for most of the week lol.
_____________________________

Picked up the shell first day of Spring Brek, very dirty. Brought it back to Austin and gave nice pressure wash

Flat tires so had to tow it to the trailer with fourwheeler
http://chixwithtrix.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/trailer.jpg?w=550&h=412

Dusty
http://chixwithtrix.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/baydirty.jpg?w=550&h=412

Pressure wash interior ftw
http://chixwithtrix.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/inside.jpg?w=550&h=412

[slider2828]

I remember this build and you hauling the shell with an ATV... Gosh what you guys do for all the time... Wholly smokes that is a lot of work and it looks great!

You guys are awesome keep up the good work. Wish my gf would help me on my car....

[drift freaq]

Must give you mad props for this. Oh and those S30 chassis's in the background peaked my interest as well. :D

[Bushido]

cool build.

neat to see girls workin on cars.

[tanks13]

dude i love this build that what i wanna do rb swap this shit is too legit to quit

[nickmerrone]

sexy ass car..and nice build thread. I'd kill to save some more 240s..

[chixwithtrix]

thanks guys, there will be some big updates in the coming weeks that I'm looking forward to!

Yes, those Zs in the background are my bf's. The 280Z he got parts off of and gave away since it was too rusted out, the other 240Z will have a RB25, just waiting to be worked on and installed.

[JDM_SMOKE]

Nice build!

It's million time hotter a cute girl working on a car...than stupid model who know nothing about cars and just standing around for some idiot pictures... :p your bf is a lucky man!

[Ali 556]

Nice,

you were on nico and alot of kids said alot of "bad" words but :gives: right?

Nice car....great work and A+++ on the video,,,next time keep it low quality so you can load it on youtube,

great ? good ? fantastic....? i dunno i just love it

Keep the great work

Ali

[s13 @ fullboost]

good build I really like all the effort you guys put into the car my favorite part was the custom rad support and Do not worry about Nico there gay anyways =]

[chixwithtrix]

nah, didn't really have a problem with the Nico guys. Yeah, a few, but thats any forum.
Got a lot of work done today, just waiting on my orders to come in....soon hopefully

[Om1kron]

I remember this car, glad you made it over here. I hate nico.

[chigga311]

Nice work!!!

[pinkarrowsnow]

girl you do some nice work! sweet good detailed build

[surge s14]

been following this on other forums

you guys rock

makes me want to post my build

[chixwithtrix]

OMG an update!

Since classes ended I've been working on various cars and got some time for the RB car

Start; about to pull the turbo and manifold. Hasn't seen any love in about 5 months. Is dirty /sad.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1544.jpg

yes! ...too bad the HKS is a big piece of metal now...
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1576.jpg

Turbo and manifold off
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1579.jpg

Time to start work on the old resurrected CF hood
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1664.jpg

Bondo on the problem areas
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1677.jpg

Dried and sanding down
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1700.jpg

Wet sanded and ready for primer
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1706.jpg

Starting with the primer
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1708.jpg

Drying primer. Eh, its a $40 CF hood, it'll never look perfect, but after some paint and polishing it will look pretty damn good!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1710.jpg

Decided while I was on a painting craze I'd paint the car's stripped interior. Before:
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1748.jpg

After; nice and clean
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1754.jpg

I'd have more to update if my packages came in, but this is all for now!

[chixwithtrix]

Woo, been busy trying to get the car ready for the Texas Nissans meet this Saturday and the drift event next weekend. OMG Texas heat sucks, but glad to be back to work on my baby. Onto the goodies...

An fittings for turbo lines
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1792.jpg

Tial 38mm wg
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1799.jpg

SPL toe links, RUCAs and Tein tie rods
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1798.jpg

SPL tie rod ends
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1907.jpg

SPL's last carbon bucket
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1796.jpg

Stock RB25 manifold
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1805.jpg

Modifying for wastegate flange
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1821.jpg

Flanged, painted, and mocked up
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1855.jpg

AN line assebly
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1873.jpg

Completed line
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1875.jpg

Old internally gated part of downpipe and start of new 3" downpipe
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1884.jpg

Cutting to size
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1890.jpg

Quick mock-up welds
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1892.jpg

Comparison before painting
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1899.jpg

30mm overfender before paint
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1832.jpg

Lots of cracks and chunks need to be filled
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1810.jpg

After primer
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1834.jpg

Paint
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1895.jpg

Door bondo work
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1814.jpg

sanded, primered
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1837.jpg

Painted
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1838.jpg

Intercooler pipe ready for powder coat!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1842.jpg

Powder coated
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1845.jpg

into the oven!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1846.jpg

mmmm, tasty
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1849.jpg

Injector covers before
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1871.jpg

Injector covers after, chrrroooome powder
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1880.jpg

Other misc piping that we powder coated black
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1905.jpg

Lots of work left to do, more updates as things happen!

[wannabdr1ftr]

wow thats one hell of an update

[kalypso123]

exciting!

are you going to build the coupe and caged hatch also?

[alindeman1989]

freaking rad to the maxx!!! i kinda liked it before the wide body but each to their own.

[tricky_ab]

Seriously nice build...I'm watching this thread for sure!!!

[usdm180sx]

Wow that's a super awesome build! If you get some jic coilovers you can be chixwithjics haha

[chixwithtrix]

exciting!
are you going to build the coupe and caged hatch also?

If your referring to the coupe in the photo of the shop and the one I got suspension from; that shell is gone. It was bought for its mods and the LeMons race and all of our team members bailed. We've since got another coupe with a sick (not the good kind) SR, but it is one of my bf's projects. The caged hatch is mine and will be built right from the ground up. Then I'll swap the RB and such over to the caged shell when its ready. Still needs stitch welding, all new bushings, a real paintjob, door bars for the cage, etc. That should be a fun project.


freaking rad to the maxx!!! i kinda liked it before the wide body but each to their own.

Yeah, the current widebody/body kit is not exactly clean or done well. Most parts were given to me and fixed or bought in a whim becasue it was cheap, but for a drift car it works for now. I love the curves so widbody for me : )

Cutting new vinyl for the car today, should be back to work tomorrow with more updates in a few days. Deadline is in three days!

[rbsilvias13]

wow...
reading this whole thing took me forever
and it was worth it lol
i really like this build
it should help me when i start doing mine
and some other ones.
ill be watching for updates!
:]

[Impact Black]

Wow looks like a really good build

[GSXRJJordan]

AWESOME thread... so glad I took the 30mins to read it.

Great to see good lookin girls gettin into the 'dirty work', and having fun with cars. I know ugly guys that do less work on their cars than you, *cheers* :keke:

The RB25 swap looks a lot like mine, except it hurt my soul a little bit to see that Griffen radiator with that nasty crossover pipe... sell that sucker, get a 3-row KA radiator for cheaper! Cleans up the bay a lot, and you woulda been able to keep your radiator support intact, too.

Did that RB25 already have a metal HG, or are you boostin that GT3071 on a stock gasket?

[chixwithtrix]

thanks for the kudos : )

Its posted in the first post, the RB has a HKS thick metal head gasket and ARP head studs. As for the rad pipe going across, yeah, its uuuugly. But it works and the Griffin radiator came with the swap and is an excellent rad, currently spending money to replace it is not on my list. Definitely something to think about when I swap shells though!

New updates once I get the photos. I was so tired and disgusted when I left the shop that forgot the camera yesterday morning.

[Future240]

This was a long, but enjoyable read. Its nice to see people taking time to do things right and not half ass them with ghetto ebay parts.

[chixwithtrix]

This weekend was hell. Started work on the car at noon on Friday and ended at 10am Saturday - not finished. Tried to get it ready for the annual Texas Nissans meet, but didn't make it. Barely...the car was 5 ft from the trailer and we gave up, it just wasn't running well and incomplete.

New turbo setup was mostly installed, the body work was incomplete, and the vinyl was applied last minute and that was not even complete. On the plus side the engine and accessories look great all finished, painted and powdercoated! But the bay itself needs a lot of work. The rear bumper fitment is horrible so I just gave up. We started the car up for the first time since the turbo swap and it didn't run well; first it wasn't running on all cylinders. Then it evened out and sounded extremely rough at idle...if it something simple I think it is either the idle air or some part of the intercooler piping has a leak. I hope its something simple, took a day off today since we were up for over 30 hrs and dead tired, but should get back to work on it tomorrow. Now for the pics!

New air filter location, when the bumper is on there is an opening directly in line with it...perfect.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1909.jpg

The new intake and intercooler piping setup made me have to move the power steering reservoir; here Ian welds it into the new location.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1919.jpg

Relocation finished
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1921.jpg

With the new powder coat I didn't want the piping to get gouged up so added this split vac line tubing for padding.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1923.jpg

The front cover sand blasted and ready for powder.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1925.jpg

Liquid black sexy
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1927.jpg

Ian fabbing up the wastegate dump tube
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1930.jpg

A lot of stuff to work the dump tube around
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1932.jpg

Buffing the hood
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1931.jpg

mmmm, much better than cracked carbon fiber
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1933.jpg

Status at 3am, uuuuggghh
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1940.jpg

I found the best place in the shop to take a snooze. Never fell asleep, but felt good to lie down for a couple minutes
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1942.jpg

Status at 4:30am, slowly coming together, tired wasn't the word for how we felt
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1943.jpg

Mostly complete turbo setup, love that piping!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1944.jpg

Painting the new headlight covers.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1945.jpg

Buttoned up and in run-able condition, sexy gem in an ugly engine bay
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1953.jpg

Vinyl looked awesome in the sunlight! The metallic black backed with rainbow chrome popped nicely. The rest of the scheme is yet to be applied.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1959.jpg

finally shiny, the hood came out well for a $40 crashed bargain!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1952.jpg

[JDM_SMOKE]

keep going!

[Killa_D]

damn super nice love the work

[chixwithtrix]

Well, had some issues at the drift event this weekend, but at least we made it! http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/431299

Needs a tune, possibly needs a new MAF, won't start now. Out of commission until that gets sorted out. Dammit I need to finish college!

Did get to drive it, yes, finally and it was awesome! Here are a few pics of it from the event. I'm out of town now so I'll post up the previous build pics when I get back. The first two are actually me driving, my mother was in the passenger seat screaming. It was hilarious!

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_9026.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_9032.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_9259.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_9353.jpg

[drftwerks]

needs the 17 x 10s all arounds and like 3 in lower.

[Leo-kun]

Lookin good. Slam it.

[chixwithtrix]

Fronts are as low as they can go, rears look pretty good, just need to get a proper alignment now that I've lowered it with less camber. Shitty front wheels are on there because they were all I had and running with crap wheels > not driving at the event. +1 on getting more 17X10s

[surge s14]

Grade A Job on the hood i remember seeing a picture of it all cracked and floppy looking

[Slammed Assassin]

great work..

[killer240]

New intake setup, pulled battery and relocated in hatch, less heat soak and shorter. Cheap 'n good!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/car52.JPG




what brand is that intake? does it have the carb legal sticker?

[ms!3]

lol, thats homemade dude.

nice build btw. I like how you repaired alot of used parts. pretty cool.

[killer240]

thats wat i thought... just checking..

[OBEEWON]

Those FNs look good. Need some up front too.

[kalypso123]

im with everyone else
17x10's up front and 2" lower.... fuck the drive way

east bear headlights would be nice but I know you dont care.

[opticnerv]

You guys have been doing really nicework ! I'm doing an rb25 swap also. I don't mean to get personal but what do you guys do for work ? :) I'm a college student as well but I'm usually broke. :)

[chixwithtrix]

im with everyone else
17x10's up front and 2" lower.... fuck the drive way
The driveway is no longer an issue fortunately, we have a shop now that is nice and flat so its already been lowered. Fronts are fail offset and height right now, but the Teins are as low as they can go and just need to get my new 5-lug up there so I can at least run some better offset wheels.


You guys have been doing really nicework ! I'm doing an rb25 swap also. I don't mean to get personal but what do you guys do for work ? :) I'm a college student as well but I'm usually broke. :)
Thanks! This car has essentially been done on a budget by repairing old parts I got for free. Got a great deal on the engine too. The car came with KYBs and I traded them for Konis and I traded the Konis for Teins and JICs now. I do what works and wait for good deals.

We pretty much do most anything we can make money from; I run a video and photography business, am a partner with my boyfriend running Sideways Vinyl selling and designing graphics and stickers. And every once in a while we'll fix and sell cars. For a day job I work at Office Max as a desktop publisher/graphic designer, bleh.

[chixwithtrix]

ok, back for updates, the first set of photos was done right before the drift event.

Ian fabbing up the new bumper/headlight mounting system
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1972.jpg

Finished bar setup
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_1982.jpg

Me pulling the crap Konis
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2000.jpg

Konis vs JIC and Teins. omg so mich improvement even to those.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2002.jpg

Modifying the exhaust angle for the new turbo setup
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2009.jpg

Me loosening the Tial's top to switch springs, best way to do this ever!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2013.jpg

Staying with the family in Houston, washing the car and apping the vinyl. The dane stands watch
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2030.jpg

And for the photos after the drift event....

The new SPL suspension parts installed in the rear
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2056.jpg

Tension rod replaced
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2061.jpg

Seat installed
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2096.jpg

Ahh, after washing the car I finally get to chill at the shop and watch someone else work! My bf working on his Miata.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2119.jpg

Freshly washed!
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2079.jpg

[kalypso123]

looks better!

[David B S12]

sickness crazyness

[chixwithtrix]

Got a tune yesterday at Secret Services in Houston. The numbers were somewhat disappointing, but expected. I am very pleased either way and can't wait to get it out on the track next weekend!

The last pull we settled on was:

330whp
305trq
1.5 bar of boost
Sunoco 104 octane race gas
NGK 7 heat range plugs gapped .016

We all were expecting around 400hp based on the older numbers I saw with the previous owner. The numbers were low because of a few reasons. The temperatures inside the shop were hotter than hell, probably around 110+ degrees during the tune. When it felt good to go outside into the hot weather you know it was hot inside. I wanted the tune to be conservative to try and make the engine more reliable to beat on it drifting, so didn't have it peaked out or bump up the timing too much. The tune was also a bit rich to compensate for the new tubular manifold which will make things lean out a bit. Also, the current modified stock manifold choked the whole system. After 21psi we tried to bump up the boost, but that didn't make the HP numbers rise. Its a POS. Finally, it was on a Mustang dyno which tends to read a bit lower.

All in all I'm happy with the results and it isn't all about peak hp. The engine pulls strong and hopefully will be reliably driftable now. The guys down at Secret Services were very knowledgeable and looked to have set down a great tune. We'll see how she holds up on the track!

Now for pics and vids...

On the Mustang dyno at Secret Services
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2397.jpg

Strapped in and some airflow
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2355.jpg

As I said it was hot as hell. The tires were sticky from the heat on the rollers.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2391.jpg

Last pull printout. I think the highest pull of the day was 349hp, but that was before the tune was tweaked to how we wanted it.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2409.jpg


And now for the crappy cam videos, still sounds awesome though:

Mid day dyno pull
YouTube - Chix's RB25 240sx dyno pull at Secret Services (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_PpwXT5EvQ)

Pull with readouts
YouTube - Chix's RB25 240sx dyno pull at Secret Services (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mfTNmUFFOc)

Low boost testing
YouTube - Chix's RB25 240sx dyno pull at Secret Services (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00zcdbbJZk4)

[GSXRJJordan]

Lol @ the "130* Shop Temp" note. Looks like the power's falling off pretty early (6200rpm), which is very unusual for the Greddy IM - what's the rev limit set at? Almost looks like the operator was lifting (torque curve should carry out a bit futher, there's more horsepower up there!). If not, I'm curious to see if the top end opens up with a tubular mani.

[Om1kron]

looks good, i love the way rb25's sound.

[chixwithtrix]

Lol @ the "130* Shop Temp" note. Looks like the power's falling off pretty early (6200rpm), which is very unusual for the Greddy IM - what's the rev limit set at? Almost looks like the operator was lifting (torque curve should carry out a bit futher, there's more horsepower up there!). If not, I'm curious to see if the top end opens up with a tubular mani.

It was freaking hot in there, I felt like passing out a few times. The engine area and in the car was probably around those noted temps.

Rev limiter is set low, but not that low. The stock manifold is modified for the external wastegate and I think its even less efficient without the divider. Weird that it only made 330whp, but the AFRs are a bit rich since a new manifold is coming. It also would be around 370whp on a DynoJet. We'll see what it does in cooler temps and the new 6Boost manifold and a less rich tune...

[chixwithtrix]

Car is for sale. Willing to trade for 350z. Contact if interested.
This weekend was just too much

[aznpoopy]

what happened?

[180love]

Car is for sale. Willing to trade for 350z. Contact if interested.
This weekend was just too much


whoa! what happened!?

[mattro]

that is a gorgeous machine. wish i had the know how/time/money to do something like this.

and why is the car for sale????

[doug200t]

tune on a load based dyno and load up each point. Sell the car grab a wreaked 350z and have fun with it

[chixwithtrix]

I don't want to sell it, but if things keep going the way they are its like I just need to sell it and start over. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to just give it away. If someone doesn't want to give me what I want out of it its not going anywhere. I will continue to work on it and fix the current problems for now, but unless things get better and I can drive the car more than a few times a year it will stay for sale. In the last few weeks this car have given me hell.

Went in for the tune at SSA and promptly was warned that the tune was not right from a lot of people. Put the car on another dyno here in Austin to narrow out what was causing the problems, talked to the tuner and SSA and everything has been taken care of and the car is going in for a retune. I do have to say that even though we were very worried about the tune and things were off with it, the guys at SSA stood by their tuner and are wanting to make things right. That I can appreciate.

I finished swapping the front 5 lug knuckles on the car on Thursday. Killed a new $40 s14 ball joint with the too small ball joint press kit so had to buy another one.

Took the car in for an alignment on Friday at NTB. Car was too low to get onto the lift, almost took out one of their on-lift jacks. They could not do my front camber since the car was too low and their jack could not get under it. Could not get the car off the lift after the alignment, tried to use the trailer ramps and it still got stuck, high centered and the rear wheels kicked the trailer ramps into my sideskirts, thus crushing the front of them.

Took the car to the gymkhana in Mineral Wells on Saturday. My first real run through the course my coolant system exploded. The metal collar that comes out of the Greddy intake manifold that the top rad hose hooks to popped out of the intake manifold. Covered the car in nastyness. Got the collar to go back in and could not get it to come out again so we filled it back up.

Went to start the car again to circulate the coolant, some wiring started to smoke. Immediately killed the power. Found the wire on the chassis harness that was hot and it was something to do with the AC system. Pulled the AC relay and the wire was cold. No more smoke, checked over the harness for other problems and all seemed fine.

After every run the idle air hose would fall out causing the car to die at idle, not good for the stop box obviously. Waited an hour for the car to cool down, removed the hose and plugged everything and bumped up the idle.

The car started to have problems running in the afternoon. Checked my fuel pressure and it was very low. After messing with the FPR it would not change. Thought the FPR was bad, but checked if there was fuel getting to the rail and there was none. Checked the connections to the fuel pump and they were fine. Opened up the gas tank to see if the walbro was messed up and saw that it was just out of gas. I had way less gas in there than I expected and simply ran out of gas. Kicked and then laughed at myself for getting all worked up over the fuel system and not realizing it was out of gas, filled it up and re-did the fuel pressure since we messed with it.

Went out for another run and it was ok, but every run of the day was screwed up by the small, slick steering wheel that I got along with the quick release. Going around the barrels was especially bad since I have a hicas rack (heavy steering pressure) and I was not able to swing the wheel or I would lose grip of it and fly out into left field.

Ian took the car out and after the second barrel the coolant exploded again. By that time the course needed to be picked up. I got probably only 4 or 5 total runs of that course the whole day. Packed up the car and went to dinner with the DFW guys. Really should have gotten that margarita...

Slept at a friend's house in Denton and headed out to Mineral Wells for Aaron's drift event on Sunday. Stopped by an auto parts store to JB weld in the metal coolant attachment in to the intake manifold. Got to the track, filled the system with water. Ian took the car out for one run and seemed fine, the second run he was driving as well to get a feel of the track so he could tell me what I should do when I drove. Midway through the course the engine lost a lot of power and eventually died. Electrical smoke was coming up from the ECU area, I screamed to cut power and grabbed the key off while Ian rushed to kill the main switch. Another 240 came up to tow the car off the track while I just stood there and watched it go away. Two runs on Sunday, neither of which I got to drive.

I walk back to the car, start searching for what caused the smoke. Found a white with black striped wire with silver bands melted near the ECU on the engine harness and continuing out past the firewall. The rest of it I could not track since the bay part of the harness was well wrapped. Pushed the car onto the trailer and headed home.

On the way home I was pretty furious with only getting a few runs the entire weekend. A bit south of Ft Worth we heard a huge bang. Looked back and the 240s hood had popped up and hit the car's windshield at 65mph. The carbon fiber hood that I easily spent over 25 hours on reviving was cracked in seven new places, it dented my immaculate roof and bent the hinges. It would have been better if it had been damaged while racing, but no, on the trailer on the highway. That just pushed me over the edge. I did a very girly thing and cried on the side of the highway.

In summary
-tune was not correct, but SSA is making it right
-killed a new $40 ball joint installing the 5 lug fronts
-Could not get the car fully aligned at NTB and crushed my sideskirts as well
-Coolant system exploded after a pipe/collar came out of the Greddy intake manifold on my first run at the gymkhana
-Chassis harness wire smoke/short
-Idle air falling out and killing the engine
-Thought my FPR and fuel pump were bad, but ran out of gas instead
-Steering wheel screwed up parts of my runs because to small and slick
-Coolant system exploded again at the end of the day, I got 4-5 runs all of Saturday
-On Sunday at the drift event the car died on Ian's second run and ECU area started smoking, I didn't get to drive.
-On our way home the CF hood popped up going 65mph and pretty much destroyed it and dented my roof.

Needless to say I'm pissed. I've had this car for almost two years and I've driven it about 40 times total. I've obviously been patient with it trying to work through the growing pains of a swap and a race car, but my nerves, pocket book, and sanity are wearing thin. We'll see how things go in the next couple days...

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2505.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2507.jpg

[180love]

whoa.. sry to hear about the rough week.. but dont give up on it !

[GSXRJJordan]

I almost cried reading that post, that's some horrible fucking luck.

I also JB welded that coolant 'sleeve' coming out of the Greddy IM, RTV wasn't going to hold. Sounds like that worked for you too.

Black/white is usually ignition-switched (or ECU relay switched) +12v, but I don't know which harness you're using. Pm me if u need wiring help.

So sorry to hear about your hood, too. But hey, it can only get better from here right?

[Om1kron]

you know what they say... when it rains.. it pours.

keep your head up, try not to rush things, but jeff is right. Anything that is thick and white with a black stripe is normally really important.

[chixwithtrix]

Thanks guys. In the last few days after the hurt of the last couple of weeks and weekend wore off I really don't want to sell her. Too much involved and too much to love. Still though, I really hope things start getting better so I don't decide to sell 'er for good.

Anyway, maybe you guys can help me with the info I have now with my wiring issues...

CALLING ALL WIRING GURUS!!

Went to the shop last couple of nights to take a look at the car. Pulled the engine harness apart and traced the wires that were melted from the ECU.

A white wire with a black stripe and silver bands was melted near the ECU. That wire continued onto a wire junction where it came out a couple wires. Those wires went into a relay that was hanging under the dash; it had the white wires going in and coming out melted. Followed the wires and one went into another wire junction and the other one was soldered onto a red wire with silver bands (the melting ended at the larger red wire). Traced the first wire to the MAF wiring. It was not melted the whole way though. The second white wire that became that red wire traced to the large gray connector partly connecting the chassis harness to the engine harness. Traced the wire out of that connector and it went into the passenger side fuse box into the “ENG CONT” fuse. The wire the lit off on Saturday was small, blue with a red stripe in the chassis harness heading to the driver’s side area of the chassis harness, through the wheel well and into the cabin.

From my limited knowledge of wiring and electricity flows, there is a short somewhere. Or is it something more complicated? Why are the MAF wiring and ENG CONT wiring all branching out from one relay under the dash? Does the small blue/red wire have anything to do with the others shorting on Sunday? This could be tied into why my MAF died at the June GGP event.

Here are the photos explaining the above text. Any help would be appreciated as far as identifying these things or what we should look for or why they are associated...?

The white wires that smoked near the ECU under the dash. You can see the wire junction near my index finger. What relay would this be under the passenger side dash area with these wires?
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2532.jpg

One of the melty white wires turning into the red wire and heading for the ENG CONT fuse. Red wire was heavier gauge and did not get hot enough to melt
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2531.jpg

MAF wiring melted and some wonkey solder joints we didn't do going into the shielding
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2527.jpg

The original wire that melted on Saturday, blue with red stripe in the chassis harness. Interestingly enough we think we found where it grounded out in the driver's side wheel well.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2534.jpg

Ian soldering some bad repairs done by some previous owner. Found them tracing some of my problem wires.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2543.jpg

I really hate wiring, the car how we left it tonight. Back to work tomorrow.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2546.jpg

[onepuff]

Oh wow that really sucks!! I kept waiting for the bad news to stop but it didn't. Just leave it sit for a week or so til u cool down. Don't sell it! Unless u can't pay the rent or something. You will hate yourself later.

[onepuff]

Looks like some hack job there. I assume the swap came that way as I've seen u and ur BF do good work. Now u get the chance to learn how the electrical system works. I would pull the chassis and engine harnesses and go over them with a fine tooth comb. You can eliminate some wiring(lots of it actually) and get a better understanding of everything. That relay probably powers just about all of the sensors on the engine. If 1 wire shorts it's gonna wreak havoc. I've definitely learned alot while tucking my wiring.

[s13 @ fullboost]

I always enjoy this thread but that one post made me kinda feel like shit so I can only imagine how it made you feel I love your car and I love the work you 2 are doing. BEAUTIFUL =]


ps. never give up

[GSXRJJordan]

White/black stripe = ECU relay it looks like. It's ignition-switched +12V. If you had the blue/red wire grounding out (making contact with the chassis) somewhere (also ignition-switched +12V), it'll pull power though other devices (like the MAF) in order to short at the grounded location. This is how you get waaaaay too much power flowing through a wire that's too small. I just hope it didn't fry your ECU.

Your Eng Cont (ECU) fuse should have blown, and stopped any frying from happening, but it looks like someone wired constant +12V (red/silver stripe) into the ignition-switched +12V relay from the back, bypassing the relay and that fuse altogether. Do you have problems with anything staying on after you turn the key off, or with battery drains?

Replace all your fuses first. Replace the wire that's melted. Cut that red wire. Test that relay to see if it's still good (put +12V on one side of the coil, ground on the other, and listen/feel for a *click*). Hopefully your PFC still turns on when you turn the key, and your MAF is still good. You'll have to check for voltage at all the places where that white/black wire feeds power to (MAF, o2 sensor, CAS, injectors?).

The sad thing is, even with great pics, no one can really help you without being there... there's just too many junctions in the harness, and too many places for people to hack them up.

[KeepItAuthentic]

I'm lovin the build, its real cool to see how you've brought everything together with the resources you got. Sorry to hear about the constant problems! It's got to suck, but once you get through it all you'll be able to enjoy that hard work. Stay up!

[Om1kron]

White/black stripe = ECU relay it looks like. It's ignition-switched +12V. If you had the blue/red wire grounding out (making contact with the chassis) somewhere (also ignition-switched +12V), it'll pull power though other devices (like the MAF) in order to short at the grounded location. This is how you get waaaaay too much power flowing through a wire that's too small. I just hope it didn't fry your ECU.

Your Eng Cont (ECU) fuse should have blown, and stopped any frying from happening, but it looks like someone wired constant +12V (red/silver stripe) into the ignition-switched +12V relay from the back, bypassing the relay and that fuse altogether. Do you have problems with anything staying on after you turn the key off, or with battery drains?

Replace all your fuses first. Replace the wire that's melted. Cut that red wire. Test that relay to see if it's still good (put +12V on one side of the coil, ground on the other, and listen/feel for a *click*). Hopefully your PFC still turns on when you turn the key, and your MAF is still good. You'll have to check for voltage at all the places where that white/black wire feeds power to (MAF, o2 sensor, CAS, injectors?).

The sad thing is, even with great pics, no one can really help you without being there... there's just too many junctions in the harness, and too many places for people to hack them up.

Seriously... we need to start up a business where we make harness' from scratch like chasebays or some shit with quick disconnects...

[josephin510]

Dont sell her it sounds stupid but just keep fixing. Super nice build

[GSXRJJordan]

Seriously... we need to start up a business where we make harness' from scratch like chasebays or some shit with quick disconnects...

Hahaha... but Wayne, you know I already have.

JordanInnovations.com - it's on your blogroll. :)

[chixwithtrix]

wow, thanks for the info. Yeah, sucks that some idiot worked on this wiring before us. We're combing through the harness bit by bit. Yes, I hope my ECU did not get fried :/

[chixwithtrix]

On my cell phone working on the car please post if you can help here

Need to make sure I got the eccs wiring right. Switched power comes into pin 5 one side of the gate. The other side of the gate exits and ys into pin 2 one side of the coil, maf power and several black/white wires going into the ecu. Pin 1 the other side of the coil goes to orange and white/black both wires going to the ecu.

[GSXRJJordan]

I assume you're talking about the ECU relay? Pins 1 and 2 are the 'coil', you should have +12V on one side (ignition-switched or constant, doesn't matter, but FSM calls for constant), and the orange "turn-on" wire from the ECU on the other. When the ECU supplies ground to the orange wire, the relay provides continuity from pin 3 to pin 5 - so again you should have ignition-switched or constant +12V supply on one of those, and all your +12V loads (MAF, igniter, injectors, etc) on the other.

Without seeing the car, and your body harness wiring, I can't get specific on which pins to use. Also, I guess the S2 RB25 has only only one ECU relay, while my S1 has two (one for igniter/coilpacks, that hits a condenser on it's way to the igniter), so I can't compare pins/wires with ya there either. :/

[chixwithtrix]

Ok that helps

Do you know what the multiple black/white wires going in to the ecu are?

[GSXRJJordan]

Ok that helps

Do you know what the multiple black/white wires going in to the ecu are?

That part's tricky... some of them are grounds, some are power - the only way to know for sure which are which is to de-loom everything, and see which ones go to the 'grounding block'. Here's a pic from my harness work - it's the brown thing in the lower right, connected by small grey wires to the shielded wire's shielding, and by the thick black/red and black/yellow wires (as well as some thinner wires that are black with silver hash marks) to the intake mani:
http://uqup2q.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pvkbUBOM0Pn8w-n96VspyC3OuHuclHjCIDb5u5Ifd7pqrV5LORWbdqfSx8_l-srV0EX5Nfh6N-Y0lG6K52S9-4w/DSC06147.jpg

If the wires go past the grounding block, so straight to the ECU from the relay, they're probably the switched +12V leads for main ECU power or for MAF/CAS/injectors/etc.

My email should be listed under my profile, shoot me some pics if you want and I'll help ya out as much as I can, from way out here :).

[chixwithtrix]

Thx, on my blackberry so ill see if I can take some photos or video of the routing in a second.

Final mystery wire is white/black and is second from the bottom right of the ecu connector.

[GSXRJJordan]

Second from the bottom right (pin 59) is a ground on some harnesses but a ignition switched +12v on most. If it doesn't go to the grounding block, it's almost certainly a +12v source.

[chixwithtrix]

called it a night and got some vid with my little cam. My bf narrates and shows whats been done to the relay in question. Wanting to confirm if it is wired correctly and what that white wire is

YouTube - RB wiring help (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNxYq2JeNOQ)

[onepuff]

If you haven't done so already try sending Carl H a pm on NICO. He knows his shit when it comes to RB wiring. No disrespect Jeff. Carl has been pretty helpful to me in the past and he does lots of RB wiring harnesses.

Here's an ECU pinout from the R33 FSM if you don't have it already. I usually check some of the pins that i know for sure to figure out the orientation of the diagram and how it corresponds to the ECU plug.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/bahtenduh/R33RB25ECUPinout.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

That's the R33 FSM, she has a Series 2 RB25 from an R34. It's a vastly different pinout - if she had a Series 1, I'd be able to tell her exactly what went where. :) Come to think of it, I have an R34 manual somewhere, I'll check into it if she didn't fix it all tonight.

Edit: just watched the video, your bf has the right idea to leave it disconnected and see if it works. My guess is, it's backup power for the ECU (like the S1) and is not needed - if this is true, it'll still show +12V with the multimeter (because it's tee'd to a live +12V wire), but shouldn't be used as a source (since it'd just be pulling +12V from wherever it's tee'd to, and giving it to whatever it's load is. Leave it disconnected. The rest of the relay looks to be hooked up right.

[onepuff]

Here's the pinout from the R34 FSM. Wasn't sure which one was for the Series 1/2 actually and couldn't tell from the vid what the ECU plug looked like.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/bahtenduh/R34ECUPinoutPg1.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t23/bahtenduh/R34ECUPinoutPg2.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

Here's the pinout from the R34 FSM. Wasn't sure which one was for the Series 1/2 actually and couldn't tell from the vid what the ECU plug looked like.

I didn't even think of that ~ the video showed a S1 plug lol. Burn. Wonder if it's actually an S2 motor with an S1 plug to use a S1 PFC, or what the hell the deal is. Thanks for posting the FSM!

[onepuff]

Series 1/Series 2. So confusing. That's why I just went with the RB20:ghey:. Had nothing to do with me being poor.:ddog: Ur engine harness looks good BTW Jeff. Need to revive the wire tuck thread on here. Hopefully 1 of these pinouts helps u some Chix.

[chixwithtrix]

damn, you guys rock! Thanks for finding all this info. I looked for a pinout diagram online, but the one I found was not comprehensive at all. Those are excellent. I'll send a PM to Carl H over on NICO for some extra input.

This engine came from a R33 and it does have the S1 connector..?

[onepuff]

Cool if you need any other documentation on things let me know. I save just about everything i can find just in case it disappears from the web one day. If i were you i would just de-loom the whole harness and get some new loom material and make it safe. At least your car didn't burst into flames though like that 510 the other day! Good luck!

[homermartinez1]

early series 2 rb's still had the gray/silver cas with out the ignitor chip...the later of them had the black cas. Also you can have a series 1 or 2 motor and use the same power fc on either one...

[GSXRJJordan]

early series 2 rb's still had the gray/silver cas with out the ignitor chip...the later of them had the black cas. Also you can have a series 1 or 2 motor and use the same power fc on either one...

They look to have different ECU plugs? I know my plug is blue, with two rows of pins, and the R34's (which would include S2 motors, right?) are white with 4-rows? I've never worked on a Neo motor, so I wouldn't know for sure...

[chixwithtrix]

Cleaned up the bay last night

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2561.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2563.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2567.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2564.jpg

http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2568.jpg

[chixwithtrix]

Went to the shop today. Finished the wiring fixing, turned the key, no smoke, no hot wires. ECU commander turned on too, yes! Thank you so much for your help guys!


Stared buttoning up the harnesses, had a bit of a problem figuring where to place it for the unknown new radiator/intercooler setup...so we decided on the new setup, v-mount. Was having cooling problems with the bumper on at the gymkhana so I ran without. The 4" intercooler was blocking all air.

Sorry for the cell phone pics, forgot my camera


Badass
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/1.jpg

Cut out the core support, traded for a smaller intercooler. Mocking up
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/3.jpg

New bracing
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/4.jpg

6Boost manifold replacing crap cast mani. Topmount so I have to remake all my AN lines, relocate the EGT probe, etc
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/5.jpg


Basic mockup. This engine bay just got a lot more serious.
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/7.jpg

Still have a lot more fab work left to do, but I shouldn't have cooling issues anymore!

[onepuff]

Lookin good! Nice work as always. So what was the mystery wire BTW?

[GSXRJJordan]

...This engine bay just got a lot more serious...

Haha, quote of the year.

As far as your support, should really have gone straight up from the frame rail - that 3/4" square tubing just doesn't have enough area to hold anything up at that angle.

As far as cooling, a lot of people have problems with v-mount, but I think anything is going to be better than what you had ~ and that mani looks boss! Should be way better for ya than the stocker.

Keep the updates coming!

[backwoods]

this car has confused me from the start. every time i look into this thread or the local one i see "new issue came up" then "we gave it more power". kinda funny in a way but i still dig the car. thing is beastly in person for sure. hope everything works out with that v mount.

[chixwithtrix]

Lookin good! Nice work as always. So what was the mystery wire BTW?
It was something that needed to be supplied 12v power, not supplying it itself.


Haha, quote of the year.

As far as your support, should really have gone straight up from the frame rail - that 3/4" square tubing just doesn't have enough area to hold anything up at that angle.

As far as cooling, a lot of people have problems with v-mount, but I think anything is going to be better than what you had ~ and that mani looks boss! Should be way better for ya than the stocker.

Keep the updates coming!

The bracing and fab work is far from finished. Nothing there needed any bracing to be held up fortunately, nothing is that flimsy. The reason for the square stock is for compression when chassis flexes, it will also have a bar coming across where the old core support was. It will easily be stronger than the old hacked up core support.

On another note, what problems have people had with v-mount setups? A local guy here in Austin has a v-mount on his SR and I haven't heard him voice any troubles with it. It will have e-fans below the rad and venting out the hood to keep airflow moving. I used to fly big model airplanes and know how important it is to have the air that comes in have a big enough opening to exit. Otherwise the setup is totaly moot and the air will stagnate.

this car has confused me from the start. every time i look into this thread or the local one i see "new issue came up" then "we gave it more power".

How so? We haven't given it more power, yes it has a larger turbo now since the HKS turbo blew an oil seal, but its still making less power than it did in the old owners hands.

I got a tune and it was incorrect so now I'm replacing the crap manifold for a better one to try and eliminate problems there. It won't be run again, except idling, until it gets a proper tune. Fortunately *knock on wood* the engine hasn't been the issue.

Yeah, it has a helluva lot of problems, but I don't see how ECU wires frying, power steering lines breaking, running out of gas, coolant system exploding, body kit problems, etc, etc, etc have anything to do with the mo powah syndrome. Maybe thats whats about to come next...lol:mepoke:

[GSXRJJordan]

... He always says he knows more than me about fab work and to let him do what hes doing, and I agree, but hes no genius...

Lol, sick burn.

As far as V-mount problems, I can't find the diagram I was looking for (could have sworn it was somewhere on my desktop...). Anyway, it showed the relationship between surface area of the inlet (assuming pressure is constant across the face of the inlet), surface area of the cooling devices, surface area of the exits, flow, and drag. It really backs up Corvette's design, with all the air entering right below the high-pressure point of the bumper, expanding to a large cooling surface, and then getting squeezed down to a small volume before matching pressures with the ambient air underneath the engine bay/at the back of the hood.

The big trouble with V-mount is ducting - what happens before the air gets to the coolers, and after it passes through. You definitely need ducting on the sides of the radiator/intercooler, to stop air from simply going around them once it enters the inlet. Then, you need ducting from the sides of the radiator down as low as you dare, to smooth the transition to ambient pressure - a couple engineers have also suggested putting a few "vanes" about 3/4" tall on the front of the radiator, to push the air through the fins (since the fins sit at a nasty angle to airflow) and avoid stagnation. Finally, you need ducting from the sides of the intercooler up to the hood vent, hopefully with a smaller surface area at the exit than at the intercooler.

Lastly, are you running a swirl pot? I would highly suggest it, since bleeding a v-mount setup properly is not easy.

[chixwithtrix]

Ha ha we've been together for 6 years, we poke fun at each other all the time.

But thanks for the info on the v mount, good stuff. The drifter here locally says his temps are nice and cool with his v mount. Seems ducting and placement is key. Will also be running something for the system bleeding

[Bigsyke]

Get the swirl tank, get it now!

[chixwithtrix]

there are a bunch of swirl pots out there, anyone know any good deals, whats good and whats not, etc?

[GSXRJJordan]

there are a bunch of swirl pots out there, anyone know any good deals, whats good and whats not, etc?

Why, I'm so glad you asked :)

Parts Shop Max, in San Diego, has the PIMPEST swirl pots around! *more engine bay whoring*
http://uqup2q.bay.livefilestore.com/y1puwZ53ThyMQQAoBaZCfA3ItqtgCRzs7sWHNk4_aW43u7gISL WCuy8XJ3wRTN-tGBgUNBdOgmHHWRsSaqkVr0lvQ/DSC06027.jpg
http://uqup2q.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pgDnCNnkXF0LNSoanzAMk1szRmPtunCnaSHMGG7RJAE-C4SU34_KhFOpqJ4-N3-J7665wnQCzxJmBOUmrjgfnng/DSC06123.jpg

$100 for the anodized ones, I think $60 for plain-jane polished. I believe the rad hose fitting was $20 (also from them). I drilled/tapped a 1/8" NPT port in the coolant neck of the Greddy IM, and used a 1/8" NPT->1/4" hose barb fitting for the top. That's the only thing that wasn't included in the kit (they include one for the lower rad hose adapter). Dan @ PSM uses two rad hose fittings on his RB, so he doesn't have to drill/tap lol.
http://uqup2q.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pbGalAKigZwTJu0n0Mgzw2q_9xGqPAqNv65kdd1mxGtE8opW iQKN90nvbCHLlTx-LXAzgUKS1t-BLpsNiYc3LjQ/DSC06032.jpg

[Flaco S14]

did you use jb weld to install that water tube thing? i did that on mine but it came out at inland the other day. i put jb weld on it again that same day and put it back in and put less tension on the top radiator hose and it seems to still be holding. do you know of any other tricks to install it in there?

[Om1kron]

jb weld doesn't like to get wet...

[artdrifter]

Great build. Finished my rb not too long ago

[GSXRJJordan]

did you use jb weld to install that water tube thing? i did that on mine but it came out at inland the other day. i put jb weld on it again that same day and put it back in and put less tension on the top radiator hose and it seems to still be holding. do you know of any other tricks to install it in there?

The trick to JB Weld (any adhesive, really) is prep. If you applied the JB Weld to a surface that's slick with coolant, the chances of it sealing are slim... originally I used grey RTV, but realized that I would twist the neck out when I was installing the rad hoses. Also, I had to drill mine to feed the water port I installed:
http://uqup2q.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p_f_2WgBH9NNcbkKLN3uCfUaWaUpkGi7wKV13DaYqLEbBbP9 rfe_24sUou7oYCarrITaepWJA02Jts8dAXMXoNg/DSC06030.jpg
... so I wanted to make sure it was in there solid. There's nothing (except for maybe taking the chrome down and welding it) that'd be stronger.

jb weld doesn't like to get wet...

That's absolutely not true. JB Weld is slightly sensitive to solvents once it's cured, but as long as the temp isn't ungodly high, it'll hold. Again, all in the prep. It's used to repair engine blocks, it doesn't have a problem with water as long as the surface is clean, and the surface area is big enough for the weight it's supporting.

[Flaco S14]

well having that water port there is going to help out a lot. it will keep it solid and instead of having the hose put some tension on it. i might just have to do that aswell.

[chixwithtrix]

Sweet, I'll take a closer look at those swirl pots

Talked to Marty (sp?) at Auto Comp in DFW today and I'll be having the intercooler piping, rad piping, full exhaust and wg dump tube, etc fabricated up there once this all is ready.

Ian, my bf, working out how the hood needed to be cut
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2582.jpg

Measured out
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2590.jpg

Cut; view from the back
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2596.jpg

Front; still needs the front cut out and sides will come later
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2597.jpg

Bad photo, but the front is cut out more here
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2599.jpg

Starting to form the new gauge cluster template
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2585.jpg

Picked up a big sheet of ABS plastic for various things, about to be a gauge clster
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2588.jpg

Me cleaning up the gauge holes
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2601.jpg

How it will basically look with the current gauges installed. Still needs some trimming and fitment once in the car, plus that big void space in the center will be filled with a tach
http://www.rc-tvproductions.com/240/2009/IMG_2606.jpg

Thats all for tonight!

[wannabdr1ftr]

this is awesome...i cant wait to see the gauge cluster all done and in the car

[S14_Kouki]

nice stuff. ppl seem to forget vmount set up's are not only for the better cooling cause more surface area is getting air. But a big thing is vmount setup will give u alot less pressure drop. example say u r running 20psi on your boost gauge realistically your running more boost at the turbo cause there will be a drop in pressure in the intercool and piping. The reason i say u are running more boost at the turbo because your vacuum for the boost gauge is hooked up at the intake manifold. So its reading boost in the intake manifold not in the turbo. So your running 20 psi of boost in the intake manifold your prob doing 23 psi or so at the turbo "depending on how much piping and how big the intercooler is". Over all with less piping the turbo will not have to work as hard to make up the loss in boost thats a better cooling factor there too and alot better for your turbo. idk i prob rambled on for alittle lmao i like vmounts alot. GL with the build.

Fabthis.com

[Flaco S14]

i noticed in the begining of your thread that you bled the lifters, i was at the track today and i got a knocking/ticking noise up by the valve covers. and im not 100% sure its the lifters but its worth a shot because the knocking doesnt sound as deep as rod knock. Well how did you bleed the lifters? any advice you can give me will be highly appreciated.

[Thrule01]

any updates? been 7 months since last post....

great thread..keep up the great work...i plan on getting an s13 hatch and swapping an rb into it eventually...

bump for some dedication and mass skills...from both you and your bf

[superJoy]

any updates? been 7 months since last post....

She parted it out I think.

Saw it all go down on a local forum.

[surge s14]

i hate to be the bad news guy

but ill just leave this here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/chixwithtrix/yrad.jpg

[n8RPS13]

GREAT build!!! I wish I had this kind of patience!

[DJDANGER24]

Well that sucks to hear that the car is sitting like that. Was a great build and a good read. my RB25 is about to go under the knife...hope it turns out good.

[traxx07]

i hate to be the bad news guy

but ill just leave this here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/chixwithtrix/yrad.jpg

You bought it?

[93nismo]

lol what happened?

[snafupossum]

lol what happened?
build changed chassis's no longer in a 240

[tricky_ab]

Well then this thread just up and died...

[Thrule01]

oh wow...what chasis its in now?

[Idk...Cameron]

What kind of chassis!?!?!??!?!?!??! O_O

[Om1kron]

how about we lock this thread mmmkaaaayyyyy.